TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Post count

2010-11-18T12:58:23Z

Alex:

===Post Counts and Speeds===

*Burt's speed will always be slower than Julie's regardless of anyones post count***
*Marcus's Post count doesn't matter as his car is always broken [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=119451][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=130114] [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=112234] [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=91967] [http://thisis.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=91973] [http://thisis.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126967] [http://thisis.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=97583]

{| border="1"
! Post Count !! Speed
|-
| 0
|| You may WALK past a showroom and look in.
|-
| 1 - 100
|| You may look at someone else's car.
|-
| 101 - 199
|| You can now pour petrol down the side of your car when filling it up and post about it.
|-
| 200 - 399
|| You may look at your car.
|-
| 400 - 800
|| You may take pictures of your car and share (posting images of Renault Clios will only be accepted if the poster is a retired grandmother who uses it as her shopping car and to get to bingo as that is what they were designed for).
|-
| 801 - 999
|| Sit in your car and make brum brum noises.
[[Image:20LT4855s.jpg]]
© Simon Trees
|-
| 1,000+
|| Drive your car in line with the speed limit during day light hours if dry.
|-
| 2,000+
||You may now drive in the wet in your car.
|-
| 4,000+
|| You may now drive your car at night.
|-
| 6,000+
|| You may now brag about breaking the speed limit, however you are not actually allowed to drive at speed yet.
|-
| 7,658
|| You may now consider putting on sticky tyres, only to be told that you should upgrade your toe links first
|-
| 9,000+
|| You may drive at +5mph Over the speed limit.
|-
| 10,000+
||You may now post on threads warning other seloc members of the danger of 'diesel' especially in the winter months when there is more 'diesel' around.
|-
| 12,000+
|| You are now allowed to use sticky tryes on your Elise
|-
| 14,000+
|| You are now allowed to travel at 100mph + and discuss on Seloc
|-
| 20,000+
|| You can now drive around trees with ease.
|-
| 22,000+
|| You may now post up video's on YouTube of excess speed and chasing a motorbike on the M1
|-
| 24,000+
|| Drive as fast as you like anywhere, any time. You are a driving God! (Excluding Burt)
|-
| 30,036
|| When you think there is a 30,000 Post count in the Wiki and you missed it.
|-
|35,000+
||The laws of Physics no longer apply.
|}

*Suggestions as to the amount of posts needed to kill a badger are greatly appreciated.

{| border="1"
! Post Count !! Bonus Hiatus
|-
| 720
|| An important post where you should enquire to the cost of any item
|-
| 7400
|| A very dangerous post count to be on, suggest you continue on to 7401 to avoid a foot slipping moment
|-
|}

[[Category:Misc]]

Gauges

2010-05-24T20:02:17Z

Alex:

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanical Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[[Image:Gau1.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[[Image:Gau2.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Please note that most silicone sealants release acetic acid which is corrosive to PCBs. Make sure the adhesive/sealant used is suitable e.g. Dow Corning 744, Loctite 444 or hot glue (if you like to make a mess).

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[[Image:Gau3.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[[Image:Gau4.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[[Image:Gau5.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[[Image:Gau6.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:Gau7.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[[Image:Gau8.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[[Image:Gau9.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.

Fan blower (With air con) Connector positions. Starting with the bottom (single) spade connector and working ANTi-Clock wise.
{{clr}}
Green grey (bottom connector)
{{clr}}
green blue
{{clr}}
thin green blue
{{clr}}
green
{{clr}}
green yellow

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Electrical]]

Gauges

2010-05-24T20:01:25Z

Alex:

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanical Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[[Image:Gau1.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[[Image:Gau2.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Please note that most silicone sealants release acetic acid which is corrosive to PCBs. Make sure the adhesive/sealant used is suitable e.g. Dow Corning 744, Loctite 444 or hot glue (if you like to make a mess).

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[[Image:Gau3.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[[Image:Gau4.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[[Image:Gau5.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[[Image:Gau6.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:Gau7.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[[Image:Gau8.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[[Image:Gau9.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.
{{clr}}
Green grey (bottom connector)
{{clr}}
green blue
{{clr}}
thin green blue
{{clr}}
green
{{clr}}
green yellow

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Electrical]]

Gauges

2010-05-24T20:00:58Z

Alex:

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanical Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[[Image:Gau1.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[[Image:Gau2.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Please note that most silicone sealants release acetic acid which is corrosive to PCBs. Make sure the adhesive/sealant used is suitable e.g. Dow Corning 744, Loctite 444 or hot glue (if you like to make a mess).

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[[Image:Gau3.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[[Image:Gau4.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[[Image:Gau5.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[[Image:Gau6.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:Gau7.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[[Image:Gau8.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[[Image:Gau9.JPG|thumb|left|Click to enlarge]]
{{clr}}

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.
Green grey (bottom connector)
{{clr}}
green blue
{{clr}}
thin green blue
{{clr}}
green
{{clr}}
green yellow

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Electrical]]

Gauges

2010-04-20T21:47:33Z

Alex:

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanical Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0146.JPG[/img]

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0166.JPG[/img]

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Please note that most silicone sealants release acetic acid which is corrosive to PCBs. Make sure the adhesive/sealant used is suitable e.g. Dow Corning 744, Loctite 444 or hot glue (if you like to make a mess).

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0167.JPG[/img]

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0148.JPG[/img]

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[img=600x800]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0152.JPG[/img]

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0156.JPG[/img]

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0157.JPG[/img]

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0172.JPG[/img]

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0170.JPG[/img]

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Electrical]]

Gauges

2010-04-20T20:19:43Z

Alex: S2 Additional gauge Installation

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanicl Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0146.JPG[/img]

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0166.JPG[/img]

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0167.JPG[/img]

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0148.JPG[/img]

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[img=600x800]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0152.JPG[/img]

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0156.JPG[/img]

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0157.JPG[/img]

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0172.JPG[/img]

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0170.JPG[/img]

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.

Gauges

2010-04-20T20:16:24Z

Alex:

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanicl Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0146.JPG[/img]

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0166.JPG[/img]

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0167.JPG[/img]

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0148.JPG[/img]

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[img=600x800]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0152.JPG[/img]

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0156.JPG[/img]

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0157.JPG[/img]

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0172.JPG[/img]

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0170.JPG[/img]

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.

Gauges

2010-04-20T20:15:57Z

Alex:

So i decided to get some Gauges for my car.

This guide should be fine for S2 drivers - maybe just Yota engine but as a point this is a guide so it's not my fault if you blow fuses! ;)

I got my Gauges from Demon Tweaks. A nice STACK Anologue Gauge for Oil Temp (Electrical Sensor) and mechanicl Boost gauge for the SC (Barry boy style)

I decided to Install the Gauges into the center air vents. This is because i don't use them and the 52MM gauges will fit quite nicely leaving an OEM look to them rather than those Aluminium Mounting cages (Your Preference)

First remove the 2 screws (one either side) of the heater/blower controls. Now pull the peice forward, the top is clipped in and it will pop out.

Disconnect the wires at the back of the heater/blower and make sure you don't mix up the ones that connect to the fan speed control!

Wiring:

I decided to use the Switch 12v and 12V Light connections that form part of the circuit board feed to the heater/blower controls.

These (on my car) are located here:
[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0146.JPG[/img]

With the Facia removed you can either splice into the loom or as i have done, remove the circuit board (4 Screws) and solder the 3 connections into the board. If you are handy with a solder iron this is easy to do.

Note the orientation of the board:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0166.JPG[/img]

I also put Clear silicone over the solder connections to stop any cross connections being made on the aluminium mounting bracket when the board is screwed back into place.

Now back in place you can see the 3 new wires poking out:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0167.JPG[/img]

Gauges:

I actually did these first (you can see them in a few pictures)

1:Remoe the air vent from the facia.
2:Remove the "flaps" if you flex the vent these come out easier, Clean and remove the lube/grease and dirt.
3:Using a screwdriver ease the face off the remaining plastic section away from the vent flaps.:o

Your left with 2 peices:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0148.JPG[/img]

I used clear silicone to sick the gauge into the vent surround (Some filing was needed of notches inside)

[img=600x800]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0152.JPG[/img]

Once this is dry (over night) i then stuck the vent face and gauge into the main air vent sleeve.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0156.JPG[/img]

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0157.JPG[/img]

NOTE: The vent sleeve is NOTCHED make sure you have the notches in the correct orientation or when you go to fit the guages back into the facia you won't be able to push the sleeve in flush (Like i did) :D

Wait for the Silicone to dry (over night)

Connect the wires up according to your instructions to the 12v switched, 12v light and Negative earth. (y)

The only wire left should be the one to the sensor. (or boost pipe)

Remembering the vent sleeve has to fit back into the air vent you need to have enough "slack" on the wires for this. I also put the wires through the holes in the side of the sleeve left from where the vent flaps :o pivoted.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0172.JPG[/img]

Not an amazing finish at the back but the front is what matters.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/37430/IMG_0170.JPG[/img]

Hoepfully others find the wire locations useful.

Bleed the cooling system

2009-12-11T08:52:42Z

Alex:

[[Image:bleed screw.jpg|thumb|left|Plastic bleed screw]]
There are two bleed screws on the Elise cooling system. One is on the front passenger side on the hose that exits the radiator. You may be able to reach it from above by shoving your hand down next to the radiator shroud. Otherwise turn the wheel on full right-hand lock and you should find it behind the wheelarch liner. If not remove the road wheel and you'll see it no problem.

[[Image:Bleed screw in engine bay.jpg|thumb|right|Bleed screw position in the engine bay]]
The other is in the engine bay on the metal pipe that runs across the top of the gearbox. (8mm)

The best way to bleed the system is to remove the expansion tank cap and allow the car to idle until it reaches 60C or so. Then increase the revs to around 2000/2500rpm. Once the return pipe is hot in the engine bay (the one with the bleed screw) and the radiator is hot all over the [[thermostat]] has opened and you can bleed the system.

Be very careful not to lose the bleed screws or any washers on them. And be very careful of the hot coolant. I find two or three pairs of latex gloves insulate enough to prevent burning.

Handy hint - on an S2, the front bleed screw can be best turned by using a 10p coin in the slot of the screw head. Much easier than trying to turn it by the knurling on the edge and much much easier than getting a screwdriver in there. The S1 was just a thumbscrew. Take care not to over-tighten this screw as well.

Oh and as you're bleeding keep an eye on the coolant level and top it up if it gets low - you don't want to draw even more air into the system!!
[[Image:Rad_bleed.JPG]]

Note for LHD cars: the front bleed screw is located on the right side, best accessed through the right wheelarch (At least on mine - LHD S2 K series)
[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

S2 Exige:

Front Bleed screw located on the DRIVERS side you can remove the wheel arch liner (front section) to feel for the bleed screw.