TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Post count

2010-01-25T11:48:13Z

AndrewF:

===Post Counts and Speeds===

*Burt's speed will always be slower than Julie's regardless of anyones post count***
*Marcus's Post count doesn't matter as his car is always broken [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=119451][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=130114] [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=112234] [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=91967] [http://thisis.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=91973] [http://thisis.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126967] [http://thisis.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=97583]

{| border="1"
! Post Count !! Speed
|-
| 0
|| You may WALK past a showroom and look in.
|-
| 1 - 199
|| You may look at someone else's car.
|-
| 200 - 399
|| You may look at your car.
|-
| 400 - 800
|| You may take pictures of your car and share (posting images of Renault Clios will only be accepted if the poster is a retired grandmother who uses it as her shopping car and to get to bingo as that is what the were designed for).
|-
| 801 - 999
|| Sit in your car and make brum brum noises.
[[Image:20LT4855s.jpg]]
© Simon Trees
|-
| 1,000+
|| Drive your car in line with the speed limit during day light hours if dry.
|-
| 2,000+
||You may now drive in the wet in your car.
|-
| 4,000+
|| You may now drive your car at night.
|-
| 6,000+
|| You may now brag about breaking the speed limit, however you are not actually allowed to drive at speed yet.
|-
| 7,658
|| You may now consider putting on sticky tyres, only to be told that you should upgrade your toe links first
|-
| 9,000+
|| You may drive at +5mph Over the speed limit.
|-
| 10,000+
||You may now post on threads warning other seloc members of the danger of 'diesel' especially in the winter months when there is more 'diesel' around.
|-
| 12,000+
|| You are now allowed to use sticky tryes on your Elise
|-
| 14,000+
|| You are now allowed to travel at 100mph + and discuss on Seloc
|-
| 20,000+
|| You can drive around trees with ease. You may now post up video's on YouTube of excess speed and chasing a motorbike on the M1
|-
| 24,000+
|| Drive as fast as you like anywhere, any time. You are a driving God! (Excluding Burt)
|-
|35,000+
||The laws of Physics no longer apply.
|}

*Suggestions as to the amount of posts needed to kill a badger are greatly appreciated.

{| border="1"
! Post Count !! Bonus Hiatus
|-
| 720
|| An important post where you should enquire to the cost of any item
|-
| 7400
|| A very dangerous post count to be on, suggest you continue on to 7401 to avoid a foot slipping moment
|-
|}

[[Category:Misc]]

Brakes

2009-05-29T07:57:51Z

AndrewF:

[[Image:Brakes mmc discs.jpg|thumb|left|Early Elise S1 MMC disc]]
The '''Brakes''' on the Elise utilises [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake disc brakes] all round. The system comprises of [[brake pads]], [[brake discs]] and [[brake hoses]]. There are many better brake products on the market than the OEM fitment, and at a more resonable price.

Useful background info on brake systems and technology can be found at [http://www.carbibles.com/brake_bible.html Brake Bible] pages.
{{clr}}
==S1==
The first production of Elise S1's had [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_matrix_composite Metal Matrix Composite] (MMC) discs as standard. This was an Aluminium-Ceramic composite which required specialist pads.

MMC brake discs look dull grey in colour and do not suffer from the normal red/brown rust that covers steel disks.

If you have the older MMC discs you have not option but to buy the special MMC pads from your local dealer. Using pads designed for steel discs on MMC discs will destroy them in a very few miles, despite this fact some dealers will, somewhat unbelievably, allow you to spec steel based pads for MMC discs, make sure '''YOU''' know.

There is a brake overhaul kit for the rear calipers. Applicable at least to 1997 cars and probably later. This is the brake seals and the slider seals. Instructions with the kit. Remember to remove the grub screw before trying to remove the pistons!

The company that manufactures the kit is called Autofren and the Kit no is D4291 from a Renault Laguna 1 1997 with ABS.

Seguridad Industrial SA
31638
Eugui
Navarra
Espana

www.seinsa.es website in English as well!

==S2==
Move from nuts to bolts...

==S2 Toyota==
Introduced [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Newbie mistakes

2009-04-08T16:04:46Z

AndrewF: /* Cam Belt */

==Newbie mistakes==

Common First time Elise owner mistakes.....

===Garage Jewelry===

Cars with low mileage are often not all they are 'cracked' up to be, quite often they will have old tyres, they go 'off' after a few years and turn to stone (not good for handling).

Also servicing is often over looked, yes it is every XX miles '''OR YEAR''' and cambelts are every 4 years .

===Tracked Cars===
Tracked cars are not to be avoided when looking for that 'first' Elise, these cars normally receive a better 'upkeep' then the average road car and quite often have practical upgrades (e.g upgraded brakes, braided hoses, harnesses and bars, suspension, cams, PRRT, discs, wheels, tyres etc.)

===BHP!!!===

The Elise is a lightweight sports car, so less BHP is not always slower.

*Current Toyota MR2 = 137bhp/ton

*Elise S2 135R = 178bhp/ton

A standard S1 with only 118bhp was something like 165bhp/ton. Every single Elise will do the 0-60 sprint in under 6 seconds.

You need to forget about peak bhp, it means nothing. The figure to think about is your power to weight ratio - bhp/ton, try looking at 0-100 times instead of 0-60 times as that is where you'll see a big difference.

How often do you ever do a standing start? Me? never, It's usually when you come off a roundabout and accelerate from 40mph.

The 0-60 figure doesn't tell you anything about real world performance.

Also don't forget that the Elise is not built for outright straight line power, if this is something you must get an airplane. © Kevin Ritson.

===K Series===

'''BANG!''' Doom and gloom!!!

By now you would have heard about HGF or head gasket failure.

This is really not as bad as it sounds, you should be more concerned about a suspension refresh.

HGF costs from £600 up to £1000, you will recover that money from the road tax / less petrol costs from the Toyota engines easy.

Some cars never get HGF, but lightning never normally strikes twice due to upgraded Head gaskets and so on.

===Cam Belt===

The Cam Belt change is what ever comes first, either 40k miles (not 54k miles - that's the gearbox oil) or 4 years. DVO

===Toyota===

These engines are in the 111R and Mk2 Exige's and then the later Elise S, they are haled as 'reliable' yet have there own host of problems like quickly wearing clutches and engines going bang because of oil starvation.

===Tyres===

Are you a driving god?

Thought so, well make sure that the tyres fitted to your new Elise are recommended by forum users, the same on all four wheels and don't have the word 'Pirelli' written on them.

[[Category:Reference]]

===Speeding===

The speed that you are allowed is directly related to your SELOC [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Post_count post count].

Under no circumstances are you allowed over the speed limit if you have less than 1000 posts.

Between 1001 and 2000 posts allows you to go over 10% on motorways dual carriageways only.

2001 to 3000 posts allows you to drive at excessive speeds on all national speed limit roads.

As soon as you have exceeded 3000 posts you are considered to be a driving god, so you are entitled to drive like a complete nutter everywhere.

===Diesel===

As a newbie there is a high probability that you will crash your Elise within the first 6 months of ownership.

When you do this ensure that you blame it on diesel on the road rather than your inability to drive the car properly.

The ensuing onslaught of flaming you will get on the forum and your pathetic attempts at justifying yourself will ensure that your post count increases dramatically so you become closer to becoming a driving god.

Thereafter when you crash again you will gain sympathy rather than flaming.

===After crashing your car===

Cut out the middle man & bring it straight round to [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Junks Junks] where I will make sure it continues to get the life it deserves rather than prolonging the agony until the post count (see above) reaches an acceptable level.

Lotus specialists

2008-09-16T12:51:42Z

AndrewF: /* UK */

__NOTOC__
<googlemap>
51.060656, -1.794999
/Address\ [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com Sportomotive], Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire. SP2 8AA
/Models\ Esprit, Elise, M100 Elan
/Facilities\ Servicing: Yes; Parts: Yes<br />New Car Sales: No; Used Car Sales: Yes<br />Body Repairs: No
51.994300, 4.325831
/Address\ [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering], Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
/Models\
/Facilities\
50.837057, -0.613318
/Address\ [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services] Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex
/Models\
/Facilities\
</googlemap>
{{clr}}
Map shown for testing puropses only. Please see Alun's site at http://www.alunr.com/Dealer/DealerMap.php for live version.

== Addresses ==
Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.fouldsmotors.co.uk/ Foulds Motors]
| 15 Honley Business Centre, New Mill Road, Honley, Huddersfield, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=HD9+6QB(Foulds+Motors) HD9 6QB]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| G S T Performance
| 6-7 Studlands Business Centre, Studlands Park Industrial Estate, Newmarket, Suffolk,[http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CB8+7SS(G+S+T+Performance) CB8 7SS]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]

|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+0NB(Power+Train+Projects-PTP) LE10 0NB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Bryant Avenue, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0AP(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0AP]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| [http://www.swiftsperformance.co.uk/ Swifts / David Underwood]
| 172-178 Fitzwilliam Street, Sheffield, South Yorkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=S1+4JR(Swifts+David+Underwood) S1 4JR]
|-
| [http://www.tracktorque.co.uk/ Tracktorque / Clive]
| Units 8 & 9 Rudgate Business Park, Rudgate Business Park, Rudgate Lane, Tockwith, York, YO26 7RD
|-
| [http://www.tomhorsburgh.co.uk Tom Horsburgh]
(Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Grayshott, Hampshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU26+6LB(Tom+Horsburgh) GU26 6LB]
Contact via: Adrian Blyth (01428) 608255
|-
| [http://www.westovergroup.co.uk/ Westover]
| 17 Witney Road, Poole, Dorset, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BH17+0GL(Westover) BH17 0GL]
|-
| [http://www.williamsautomobiles.com/ Williams Automobiles]
| St Philips Causeway, Avonmeads Bristol, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BS4+3BD(Williams+Automobiles) BS4 3BD]
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH) [http://maps.google.com/?hl=en&q=51%C2%B059'39.48%22N4%C2%B019'32.99%22E (51°59'39.48"N 4°19'32.99"E)]
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-09-15T08:38:33Z

AndrewF: /* Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below. The gauges are held very firmly in place using black silicone sealant as a glue - it is just visible around the edges of the right hand gauge. The DIN mounting is also held securely in place using the same.

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg

Read more about this installation at http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=171330&page=1#pid3347959

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- 120C+ on track

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:45:59Z

AndrewF: /* Results */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below. The gauges are held very firmly in place using black silicone sealant as a glue - it is just visible around the edges of the right hand gauge. The DIN mounting is also held securely in place using the same.

http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg

Read more about this installation at http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=171330&page=1#pid3347959

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:45:26Z

AndrewF: /* Results */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below. The gauges are held very firmly in place using black silicone sealant as a glue - it is just visible around the edges of the right hand gauge. The DIN mounting is also held securely in place using the same.

[Image:http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg]

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=171330&page=1#pid3347959

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:43:37Z

AndrewF: /* Results */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below. The gauges are held very firmly in place using black silicone sealant as a glue - it is just visible around the edges of the right hand gauge. The DIN mounting is also held securely in place using the same.

[Image:http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg]

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:43:23Z

AndrewF: /* Results */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below. The gauges are held very firmly in place using black silicone sealant as a glue - it is just visible around the edges of the right hand gauge. The DIN mounting is also held securely in place using the same.

[[Image:http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg]]

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:43:02Z

AndrewF: /* Results */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below. The gauges are held very firmly in place using black silicone sealant as a glue - it is just visible around the edges of the right hand gauge. The DIN mounting is also held securely in place using the same.

[http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg]

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:41:47Z

AndrewF: /* Results */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

A second fitting is shown below

[Image:http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/31096/gauges.jpg]

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:38:28Z

AndrewF: /* Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
[To View] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
[To Reset] Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
[Slow] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
[Quick] Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Installing an oil pressure/temperature gauge in S2

2008-06-23T22:37:46Z

AndrewF: /* Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels */

==Installing a Oil Pressure and and Oil Temperature gauge in an S2==
===The new hardware===
The gauges were bought from elise-shop.com because all my experiences there have been brilliant. Although I wanted a simple gauge I did decide to go for the new (end of 2007) gauges they had to offer there because they were 'cheap', had 270 degree displays (so you get a good reading) and have warning options in several ways. They are high tech, perhaps a bit too high tech with the lights, animations and sounds. But they work, look cool and seem reliable.

* Oil Temperature Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=634
* Oil Pressure Gauge (comes with cables and sensor) http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=635
* Sensor Adapter Take off for k-Series engine http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=389
[[Image:Oil-002.jpg]]

Please note the sensors, the sensor cables and the Sensor Adapter Take off are not shown here. The image shows the gauge 'holders that allow the gauges to be mounted in different locations (on top of dash etc). Apart from some aluminum plate (not too thin) some new bolts and a bit of wire I used nothing else.

===Preparation===
*The work started by removing the radio and the front speakers (rear speakers will need to be removed later). This saved 2500 grams being replaced by 450 grams of new equipment. All the old weight was high in the car, the new weight (mainly the Sensor Adapter) is mostly low in the car. The radio was replaced as it was not never heard over the engine. [[Image:Oil-001.jpg]]
*Both the bottom plates were removed so all parts of the engine were accessible.
*Oil plug was removed, all oil drained and left 24 hours to drip (amazing how much keeps coming out), oil plug inserted.
*Oil Filter was removed at the same time and again left open for 24 hours (again amazed of the amount of oil that is comes out, after 20 hours thick black tar seems to drip out)
*Center Console was detached (not removed)

===Installing the sensors===
After cleaning the area around the oil filter the new oil filter was installed, with the adapter plate between engine and filter. The two sensors were screwed in without any sealing method (they have tapered screw) and have not leaked to this moment).

[[Image:Oil-003.jpg]]

===Laying cables===
The cables that come with the sensors are obviously not intended for a mid engine car as they turned out to be too short. I had to cut them and solder in another 50 cm of cable. From the sensors the cables were fed through the same chassis hole that has the throttle cable.

[[Image:Oil-004.jpg]]

Inside the passenger compartment the cables were fed through the center console and follows other cables into the dashboard. This was probably the hardest part. You need to be a contortionist to handle anything there. My wife managed to get the tie-raps on, amazing.

[[Image:Oil-005.jpg]]

===Installing the gauges===
====Power and lighting====
The gauges use 12 volts/ground/acc power and lights on/off power. All these connections were taken from the radio connection cable. Using the acc and lights on/off cables it is possible to get different lighting styles (amber/white/none lighting for day, Amber/white for night). I decided for white day lighting and amber night lighting. Only one gauge needs to be connected as connection cable can chain link to other gauges.
[[Image:Oil-006.jpg]]

====Mounting Plate====
As the gauges would need to installed in place of the radio a new aluminum plate had to be created. I decided to remove the two right hand screws that hold the heater panel in place and drill two new holes on the other side of the 'radio hole', no other modification of the dashboard was needed. This created 4 holes that are used to bolt the new panel in place. The mounting plate has room for three gauges (perhaps I'll install something else next year). The gauges are held in place with the brackets that were provided (slightly cut down in length) and some tape was used to prevent any possible rattling.

[[Image:Oil-007.jpg]]

===Results===
The final results are exactly as I intended and the look is fully acceptable (the aluminum will weather to the same dull finish as the background). The gauges are well visible while driving and the warning settings that will flash the gauge in red and/or light the warning light and/or make a gauge beep are absolutely impossible to miss.

[[Image:Oil-008.jpg]]

===Testing, calibrating and setting of warning levels===
To follow, including video of gauge in motion.

Setting the warning levels is as per the instructions included with the gauges, recorded here for reference when I inevitably lose the instructions.

1. Mute selecter: Set key hold after power on

2. Peak selecter:
View - Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> SET KEY --> Normal mode
Reset - Normal mode --> SET KEY --> Peak mode --> HOLD SET KEY 3 SEC --> Clear peak --> PEAK LED FLASH --> Normal mode

3. Warning set selecter:
Slow - Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> SET KEY --> Pointer move slowly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode
Quick - Normal mode --> HOLD SET KEY 5 SEC --> Warning set mode / pointer LED flash --> HOLD SET KEY --> Pointer move quickly --> OVER 5 SEC --> Normal mode

No calibration necessary

S2 135R with PRRT fitted reads:
- ~6 bar from cold (ambient temp 20C / June / summer time)
- 5 bar when warm and driving to red line / limiter
- 4.5 bar when driving at easy pace
- 1.8 bar idle at warm

- 100C motorway / enthusiastic A/B-road driving
- 90C easy pace driving
- no track data yet

Note: Temperature warning level is a HIGH value (e.g. 110C), pressure warning is a LOW value (e.g. 1 bar)

Newbie mistakes

2008-06-20T13:37:05Z

AndrewF: /* Tracked Cars */

==Newbie mistakes==

Common First time Elise owner mistakes.....

===Garage Jewelry===

Cars with low mileage are often not all they are 'cracked' up to be, quite often they will have old tyres, they go 'off' after a few years and turn to stone (not good for handling).

Also servicing is often over looked, yes it is every XX miles '''OR YEAR''' and cambelts are every 4 years .

===Tracked Cars===
Tracked cars are not to be avoided when looking for that 'first' Elise, these cars normally receive a better 'upkeep' then the average road car and quite often have practical upgrades (e.g upgraded brakes, braided hoses, harnesses and bars, suspension, cams, PRRT, discs, wheels, tyres etc.)

===BHP!!!===

The Elise is a Light weight sports car, so less BHP is not always slower.

*Current Toyota MR2 = 137bhp/ton

*Elise S2 135R = 178bhp/ton

A standard S1 with only 118bhp was something like 165bhp/ton. every single Elise will do the 0-60 sprint in under 6 seconds.

You need to forget about peak bhp, it means nothing. If there's a figure you was to think about, then its your power to weight ratio - bhp/ton, try looking at 0-100 times instead of 0-60 times as that is where you'll see a big difference.

How often do you ever do a standing start? Me? never, It's usually when you come off a roundabout and accelerate from 40mph.

The 0-60 figure doesn't tell you anything about real world performance.

Also don't forget that the Elise is not built for outright straight line power, if this is something you lust get an airplane. (C) Kevin Ritson.

===K Series===

'''BANG!''' Doom and gloom!!!

By now you would have heard about HGF or head gasket failure.

This is really not as bad as it sounds, you should be more concerned about a suspension refresh.

===Cam Belt===

The Cam Belt change is what ever comes first, either 40k miles (not 54k miles) or 4 years. DVO

===Tyres===

Are you a driving god?

Thought so, well make sure that the tyres fitted to your new Elise are recommended by forum users, the same on all four wheels and don't have the word 'Pirelli' written on them.

[[Category:Reference]]

===Speeding===

The speed that you are allowed is directly related to your SELOC [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Post_count post count].

Under no circumstances are you allowed over the speed limit if you have less than 1000 posts.

Between 1001 and 2000 posts allows you to go over 10% on motorways dual carriageways only.

2001 to 3000 posts allows you to drive at excessive speeds on all national speed limit roads.

As soon as you have exceeded 3000 posts you are considered to be a driving god, so you are entitled to drive like a complete nutter everywhere.

===Diesel===

As a newbie there is a high probability that you will crash your Elise within the first 6 months of ownership.

When you do this ensure that you blame it on diesel on the road rather than your inability to drive the car properly.

The ensuing onslaught of flaming you will get on the forum and your pathetic attempts at justifying yourself will ensure that your post count increases dramatically so you become closer to becoming a driving god.

Thereafter when you crash again you will gain sympathy rather than flaming.

===After crashing your car===

Cut out the middle man & bring it straight round to [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Junks Junks] where I will make sure it continues to get the life it deserves rather than prolonging the agony until the post count (see above) reaches an acceptable level.

Newbie mistakes

2008-06-20T13:35:51Z

AndrewF: /* Tracked Cars */

==Newbie mistakes==

Common First time Elise owner mistakes.....

===Garage Jewelry===

Cars with low mileage are often not all they are 'cracked' up to be, quite often they will have old tyres, they go 'off' after a few years and turn to stone (not good for handling).

Also servicing is often over looked, yes it is every XX miles '''OR YEAR''' and cambelts are every 4 years .

===Tracked Cars===
Tracked cars are not to be avoided when looking for that 'first' Elise, these cars normally receive a better 'upkeep' then the average road car and quite often have practical upgrades (e.g upgraded brakes, braided hoses, harnesses and bars, PRRT, discs, wheels, tyres etc.)

===BHP!!!===

The Elise is a Light weight sports car, so less BHP is not always slower.

*Current Toyota MR2 = 137bhp/ton

*Elise S2 135R = 178bhp/ton

A standard S1 with only 118bhp was something like 165bhp/ton. every single Elise will do the 0-60 sprint in under 6 seconds.

You need to forget about peak bhp, it means nothing. If there's a figure you was to think about, then its your power to weight ratio - bhp/ton, try looking at 0-100 times instead of 0-60 times as that is where you'll see a big difference.

How often do you ever do a standing start? Me? never, It's usually when you come off a roundabout and accelerate from 40mph.

The 0-60 figure doesn't tell you anything about real world performance.

Also don't forget that the Elise is not built for outright straight line power, if this is something you lust get an airplane. (C) Kevin Ritson.

===K Series===

'''BANG!''' Doom and gloom!!!

By now you would have heard about HGF or head gasket failure.

This is really not as bad as it sounds, you should be more concerned about a suspension refresh.

===Cam Belt===

The Cam Belt change is what ever comes first, either 40k miles (not 54k miles) or 4 years. DVO

===Tyres===

Are you a driving god?

Thought so, well make sure that the tyres fitted to your new Elise are recommended by forum users, the same on all four wheels and don't have the word 'Pirelli' written on them.

[[Category:Reference]]

===Speeding===

The speed that you are allowed is directly related to your SELOC [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Post_count post count].

Under no circumstances are you allowed over the speed limit if you have less than 1000 posts.

Between 1001 and 2000 posts allows you to go over 10% on motorways dual carriageways only.

2001 to 3000 posts allows you to drive at excessive speeds on all national speed limit roads.

As soon as you have exceeded 3000 posts you are considered to be a driving god, so you are entitled to drive like a complete nutter everywhere.

===Diesel===

As a newbie there is a high probability that you will crash your Elise within the first 6 months of ownership.

When you do this ensure that you blame it on diesel on the road rather than your inability to drive the car properly.

The ensuing onslaught of flaming you will get on the forum and your pathetic attempts at justifying yourself will ensure that your post count increases dramatically so you become closer to becoming a driving god.

Thereafter when you crash again you will gain sympathy rather than flaming.

===After crashing your car===

Cut out the middle man & bring it straight round to [http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Junks Junks] where I will make sure it continues to get the life it deserves rather than prolonging the agony until the post count (see above) reaches an acceptable level.

Fit a harness bar and belts

2008-05-15T15:49:30Z

AndrewF:

Harnesses greatly improve the feel of the car on track and lock you into the seated position. The installation is relatively common no matter which [[harness bar]] or belts you choose.

== Procedure ==
# [[Removing the seats|Remove seats]]
#: (and unscrew the inertia belts from the seats at this point if you plan not to keep them).
# Remove plastic trim
#: (and the intertia belt spool, if applicable).
# Loosely screw harness bar in place.
# Stick masking tape onto the rollover bar at the top and bottom of the circular section of the harness bar where it meets the rollover bar (hard to explain but is very simple).
# Remove the harness bar
# Loosely put the plastic trim in place and, using the masking tape on the rollover bar as a guide, mark the top and bottom of the harness bar onto the plastic trim.
# Remove the plastic trim and cut away the trim so that it can fit back in place with the harness bar fitted.
# Put the plastic trim loosely back into the car.
# Slide one end of the harness bar *past* the fixing point on the rollover bar so that you can then get the other end of the harness bar past the other side of the rollover bar.
# Bolt the harness bar to the rollover bar. You'll need a 17mm socket/spanner and should be able to pass the socket/spanner from below if the original belts are removed. If you want to keep the original belts, put them back in before fixing the plastic trim.
# Fit the plastic trim properly in place
# Attach the shoulder harnesses to the harness bar.
# Attach the lap harnesses to the seats. I removed my inertia reel belts so this was really easy.
# Bolt the seats in

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2389.JPG Picture 1] Please note, photo incorrect, holes should faces downwards, not upwards as pictured.

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2391.JPG Picture 2]

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2392.JPG Picture 3]

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2398.JPG Picture 4]

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2395.JPG Picture 5]

== Information and Pictures Provided By ==

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=PhilS PhilS]

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=8428

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=Steve+S2 Steve S2]

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=21495#pid312060

== Discussion ==

Discussion on the merits of harness fitting options
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=166724&page=1

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Safety]]
[[Category:Interior]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Fit a harness bar and belts

2008-05-15T15:49:07Z

AndrewF:

Harnesses greatly improve the feel of the car on track and lock you into the seated position. The installation is relatively common no matter which [[harness bar]] or belts you choose.

== Procedure ==
# [[Removing the seats|Remove seats]]
#: (and unscrew the inertia belts from the seats at this point if you plan not to keep them).
# Remove plastic trim
#: (and the intertia belt spool, if applicable).
# Loosely screw harness bar in place.
# Stick masking tape onto the rollover bar at the top and bottom of the circular section of the harness bar where it meets the rollover bar (hard to explain but is very simple).
# Remove the harness bar
# Loosely put the plastic trim in place and, using the masking tape on the rollover bar as a guide, mark the top and bottom of the harness bar onto the plastic trim.
# Remove the plastic trim and cut away the trim so that it can fit back in place with the harness bar fitted.
# Put the plastic trim loosely back into the car.
# Slide one end of the harness bar *past* the fixing point on the rollover bar so that you can then get the other end of the harness bar past the other side of the rollover bar.
# Bolt the harness bar to the rollover bar. You'll need a 17mm socket/spanner and should be able to pass the socket/spanner from below if the original belts are removed. If you want to keep the original belts, put them back in before fixing the plastic trim.
# Fit the plastic trim properly in place
# Attach the shoulder harnesses to the harness bar.
# Attach the lap harnesses to the seats. I removed my inertia reel belts so this was really easy.
# Bolt the seats in

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2389.JPG Picture 1] Please note, photo incorrect, holes should faces downwards, not upwards as pictured.

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2391.JPG Picture 2]

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2392.JPG Picture 3]

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2398.JPG Picture 4]

[http://www.aouv49.dsl.pipex.com/IMG_2395.JPG Picture 5]

== Information and Pictures Provided By ==

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=PhilS PhilS]

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=8428

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=Steve+S2 Steve S2]

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=21495#pid312060

== Information and Pictures Provided By ==

Discussion on the merits of harness fitting options
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=166724&page=1

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Safety]]
[[Category:Interior]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Idle Air Control Valve

2008-05-15T12:44:51Z

AndrewF: /* S2 */

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
==S1==
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.

===Location===
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]
{{clr}}

==S2==
Removal, cleaning and refitting is a 20 minute job. Unplug the loom attachment first. The valve assembly is held in place by four torx screws. The lower two are not visible and have to be located by feel. When the assembly comes free be careful not to drop the rubber seal. Detach the hose. Cleaned with copious amounts of carburettor cleaner spray (until the fluid runs clear). Fitting is reverse of removal, use silicon grease on the seal before reseating. Screw torque 1.5nm.

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=166362&page=1#pid3289867

===Location===
[[Image:iacv_in_situ.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) In Situ]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:iacv_released.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) Released]]
{{clr}}

=="Resetting" the iacv==
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.

This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Induction]]

Idle Air Control Valve

2008-05-15T12:43:22Z

AndrewF: /* S2 */

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
==S1==
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.

===Location===
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]
{{clr}}

==S2==
Removal, cleaning and refitting is a 20 minute job. Unplug the loom attachment first. The valve assembly is held in place by four torx screws. The lower two are not visible and have to be located by feel. When the assembly comes free be careful not to drop the rubber seal. Detach the hose. Cleaned with copious amounts of carburettor cleaner spray (until the fluid runs clear). Fitting is reverse of removal, use silicon grease on the seal before reseating. Screw torque 1.5nm.

===Location===
[[Image:iacv_in_situ.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) In Situ]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:iacv_released.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) Released]]
{{clr}}

=="Resetting" the iacv==
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.

This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Induction]]

Idle Air Control Valve

2008-05-15T12:42:03Z

AndrewF: /* S2 */

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
==S1==
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.

===Location===
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]
{{clr}}

==S2==
Removal, cleaning and refitting is a 20 minute job. Unplug the loom attachment first. The valve assembly is held in place by four torx screws. The lower two are not visible and have to be located by feel. When the assembly comes free detach the hose. When removed it may be sooty and is cleaned with copious amounts of carburettor cleaner spray (until the fluid runs clear). Fitting is reverse of removal. Screw torque 1.5nm.

===Location===
[[Image:iacv_in_situ.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) In Situ]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:iacv_released.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) Released]]
{{clr}}

=="Resetting" the iacv==
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.

This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Induction]]

Idle Air Control Valve

2008-05-15T12:41:12Z

AndrewF:

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
==S1==
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.

===Location===
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]
{{clr}}

==S2==
Removal, cleaning and refitting is a 20 minute job. Unplug the loom attachment first. The valve assembly is held in place by four torx screws. The lower two are not visible and have to be located by feel. When the assembly comes free detach the hose. Clean When removed it may be sooty and is cleaned with copious amounts of carburettor cleaner spray (until the fluid runs clear). Fitting is reverse of removal. Screw torque 1.5nm.

===Location===
[[Image:iacv_in_situ.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) In Situ]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:iacv_released.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) Released]]
{{clr}}

=="Resetting" the iacv==
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.

This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Induction]]

Idle Air Control Valve

2008-05-15T12:40:02Z

AndrewF:

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
===S1===
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.

==Location==
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]
{{clr}}

===S2===
Removal, cleaning and refitting is a 20 minute job. Unplug the loom attachment first. The valve assembly is held in place by four torx screws. The lower two are not visible and have to be located by feel. When the assembly comes free detach the hose. Clean When removed it may be sooty and is cleaned with copious amounts of carburettor cleaner spray (until the fluid runs clear). Fitting is reverse of removal. Screw torque 1.5nm.

==Location==
[[Image:iacv_in_situ.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) In Situ]]
{{clr}}
[[Image:iacv_released.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series) Released]]
{{clr}}

=="Resetting" the iacv==
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.

This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Induction]]

File:Iacv released.jpg

2008-05-15T12:38:04Z

AndrewF:

File:Iacv in situ.jpg

2008-05-15T12:37:25Z

AndrewF:

Idle Air Control Valve

2008-05-15T12:36:00Z

AndrewF:

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
===S1===
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.

===S2===
Removal, cleaning and refitting is a 20 minute job. Unplug the loom attachment first. The valve assembly is held in place by four torx screws. The lower two are not visible and have to be located by feel. When the assembly comes free detach the hose. Clean When removed it may be sooty and is cleaned with copious amounts of carburettor cleaner spray (until the fluid runs clear).

=="Resetting" the iacv==
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.

This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.

==Location==
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]
{{clr}}

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Induction]]

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-10-01T16:22:40Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

[[Image:WorkingConditionsW.jpg|thumb|Working Conditions - N.B. Liner pulled back (step 4)]]
4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

[[Image:UndertrayHeatshieldAndORWheelW.jpg|thumb|Tray, heatshield, OR Wheel]]
7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

[[Image:BackBoxAndCatSupportW.jpg|thumb|Stands, jack, and plastic bucket support!]]
10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

[[Image:EngineMountW.jpg|thumb|Access to the engine mounting bolts]]
11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

[[Image:OldManifoldAlmostOutW.jpg|thumb|Unbolted and almost out]]
17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

[[Image:AlternatorHeatshieldW.jpg|thumb|Alternator heat shield, to left of alternator]]
19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

[[Image:OldAndNewW.jpg|thumb|Compare old 'pig iron' mess, with sleek new manifold]]
5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

[[Image:HoldingManifoldInSituW.jpg|thumb|Keep manifold steady as it is being bolted to the head]]
22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

[[Image:NewManifoldInW.jpg|thumb|What 'success' looks like :-)]]
23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

[[Image:EngineBracketAlignmentNewAndOldW.jpg|thumb|Use the old to set the new length correctly]]
27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

[[Image:CuttingUndertrayW.jpg|thumb|Angle grinder on the undertray, showing rough pattern to cut.]]
36. Use and angle grinder and snips to cut the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences. Special gold star to Steve S2 for ruining his legs, back, arms and shoulders during the fitting process.

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-10-01T16:22:19Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

[[Image:WorkingConditionsW.jpg|thumb|Working Conditions - N.B. Liner pulled back (step 4)]]
4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

[[Image:UndertrayHeatshieldAndORWheelW.jpg|thumb|Tray, heatshield, OR Wheel]]
7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

[[Image:BackBoxAndCatSupportW.jpg|thumb|Stands, jack, and plastic bucket support!]]
10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

[[Image:EngineMountW.jpg|thumb|Access to the engine mounting bolts]]
11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

[[Image:OldManifoldAlmostOutW.jpg|thumb|Unbolted and almost out]]
17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

[[Image:AlternatorHeatshieldW.jpg|thumb|Alternator heat shield, to left of alternator]]
19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

[[Image:OldAndNewW.jpg|thumb|Compare old 'pig iron' mess, with sleek new manifold]]
5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

[[Image:HoldingManifoldInSituW.jpg|thumb|Keep manifold steady as it is being bolted to the head]]
22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

[[Image:NewManifoldInW.jpg|thumb|What 'success' looks like :-)]]
23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

[[Image:EngineBracketAlignmentNewAndOldW.jpg|thumb|Use the old to set the new length correctly]]
27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

[[Image:CuttingUndertrayW.jpg|thumb|Angle grinder on the undertray, showing rough pattern to cut.]]
36. Use and angle grinder and snips to cut the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences. Special gold start to Steve S2 for ruining his legs, back, arms and shoulders during the fitting process.

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

File:AlternatorHeatshieldW.jpg

2007-09-30T08:03:38Z

AndrewF:

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-30T08:03:26Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

[[Image:WorkingConditionsW.jpg|thumb|Working Conditions - N.B. Liner pulled back (step 4)]]
4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

[[Image:UndertrayHeatshieldAndORWheelW.jpg|thumb|Tray, heatshield, OR Wheel]]
7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

[[Image:BackBoxAndCatSupportW.jpg|thumb|Stands, jack, and plastic bucket support!]]
10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

[[Image:EngineMountW.jpg|thumb|Access to the engine mounting bolts]]
11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

[[Image:OldManifoldAlmostOutW.jpg|thumb|Unbolted and almost out]]
17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

[[Image:AlternatorHeatshieldW.jpg|thumb|Alternator heat shield, to left of alternator]]
19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

[[Image:OldAndNewW.jpg|thumb|Compare old 'pig iron' mess, with sleek new manifold]]
5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

[[Image:HoldingManifoldInSituW.jpg|thumb|Keep manifold steady as it is being bolted to the head]]
22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

[[Image:NewManifoldInW.jpg|thumb|What 'success' looks like :-)]]
23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

[[Image:EngineBracketAlignmentNewAndOldW.jpg|thumb|Use the old to set the new length correctly]]
27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

[[Image:CuttingUndertrayW.jpg|thumb|Angle grinder on the undertray, showing rough pattern to cut.]]
36. Use and angle grinder and snips to cut the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences.

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

File:UndertrayHeatshieldAndORWheelW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:53:24Z

AndrewF:

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-30T07:52:59Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

[[Image:WorkingConditionsW.jpg|thumb|Working Conditions - N.B. Liner pulled back (step 4)]]
4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

[[Image:UndertrayHeatshieldAndORWheelW.jpg|thumb|Tray, heatshield, OR Wheel (step 4)]]
7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

36. Snip out the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Photos ==
A selection of pictures of our day's activities can be found at [http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15371&l=6db72&id=535283125] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences.

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

File:WorkingConditionsW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:46:11Z

AndrewF:

File:UndertrayHeatsheildAndORWheelW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:45:59Z

AndrewF:

File:OldManifoldAlmostOutW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:45:49Z

AndrewF:

File:OldAndNewW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:45:34Z

AndrewF:

File:NewManifoldInW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:45:26Z

AndrewF:

File:HoldingManifoldInSituW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:45:16Z

AndrewF:

File:EngineMountW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:45:06Z

AndrewF:

File:EngineBracketAlignmentNewAndOldW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:44:53Z

AndrewF:

File:CuttingUndertrayW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:44:38Z

AndrewF:

File:BackBoxAndCatSupportW.jpg

2007-09-30T07:44:22Z

AndrewF:

File:AlternatorHeatshield.JPG

2007-09-30T07:43:50Z

AndrewF:

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-29T17:13:54Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

36. Snip out the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Photos ==
A selection of pictures of our day's activities can be found at [http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15371&l=6db72&id=535283125] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences.

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-29T16:37:45Z

AndrewF: S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting moved to Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

#REDIRECT [[Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting]]

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-29T16:37:45Z

AndrewF: S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting moved to Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

36. Snip out the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Photos ==
A selection of pictures of our day's activities can be found at [http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15371&l=6db72&id=535283125] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences.

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-29T16:30:56Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket

Cat to manifold gasket

Adjustable bottom engine mount

Piper 4-2-1 manifold

4L oil

Oil filter

Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack

Axle Stands

Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm

Plusgas seized bolt release spray

Latex gloves

Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)

Philips screwdriver

Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.

Torch / inspection lamp

Oil tray / collector

Lump hammer

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

36. Snip out the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Photos ==
A selection of pictures of our day's activities can be found at [http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15371&l=6db72&id=535283125] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences.

Piper S2 4-2-1 Manifold Fitting

2007-09-29T16:28:30Z

AndrewF:

== Kit List ==
Head to manifold gasket
Cat to manifold gasket
Adjustable bottom engine mount
Piper 4-2-1 manifold
4L oil
Oil filter
Washers (lots - for use as spacers)

== Tool List ==
Jack
Axle Stands
Spanners (open and ring), sockets: 10mm to 19mm
Plusgas seized bolt release spray
Latex gloves
Thread file (and perhaps Ford Pinto 2L spark plug)
Philips screwdriver
Ratchet wrenches - torque wrench size, mid range, and mini. For leverage and access.
Torch / inspection lamp
Oil tray / collector
Lump hammer
Blowtorch

Bacon, HP Sauce, Bread, Tea, Kit-Kats, Beer, Coke

== Method ==
1. Remove boot lid - disconnecting ariel and connectors. Note positioning and number of spacing washers.

2. Remove undertray (rear diffuser and mid section leaving them both as one piece)

3. Remove offside rear wheel

4. Remove offside rear wheel arch liner. We had a issue with the rearmost lowest screw and so bent the flexible liner out of the way to access the engine mount bolts.

5. Soak bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust in Plusgas

6. Time for first cup of tea and bacon sandwiches

7. Remove manifold heat shield - three bolts.

8. Remove bolts holding the downpipe onto the manifold (from underneath the car with the engine still bolted in place)

9. Crack off and put on loosely the bolts / nuts holding the downpipe to the cat and the cat to the exhaust. We had a major issue with one of the cat-exhaust bolts and had to chisel it off.

10. Remove CAT if possible. We left it in situ with the attached lambda sensor. Balanced on a makeshift bucket + toolbox platform. We did remove the back box though to provide more working space.

11. Remove two bolts holding engine mount to chassis - accessed via the offside rear wheel space.

12. Remove the downpipe

13. Within the engine bay, locate the loom to the manifold lambda sensor, and disconnect the lambda sensor.

14. Remove engine steady bar

15. Pull the engine rearwards - use the trolley jack to lift and shift the engine block. Using the sump as the contact point. 10cm square block of wood make this an easier task.

16. Unbolt the manifold from the head

17. Remove manifold in two pieces through top and bottom of engine bay.

18. Soak manifold lambda sensor in Plusgas

19. Take off alternator heat shield. This took an absolute age. Be careful not to round off the bolts. Small spanners and a gentle bit of persuasion with a lump hammer will get you there eventually, along with lots of Plusgas.

20. Oil filter off, catching 95% of the oil! Spend time mopping up the spillage until you have a clean worksurface once more.

5hrs 30mins to this point. We now have everything off, its time to start to reconstruct with the new manifold. But more sandwiches and tea first...

21. Looking from the rear of the car, slide the manifold in with it rotated 90 degrees anticlockwise
offer the manifold up whilst jiggling the engine and pulling the manifold from above. Watch for the brake cable which runs exactly in the most inconvenient position. At times this task appears impossible. Just *how* can the manifold fit. Watch out for trapped fingers. Keep jiggling the engine block and rattling the manifold. Eventually it does pop through the impossible gap and into position.

22. Fit manifold to head using the new gasket - with the "half hole end" fitting next to the water outlet from the head. Remember to use two washers between in each nut and the new manifold's flange (new flange is perhaps 5mm thinner than old flange). Be extremely careful not to cross thread the head bolts!

23. Alternator heat shield will need clipping with tin snips. Perhaps 5-6cm cut from the plate in order to accommodate the new manifold. I reused the one from Steve S2's car as it was a cast off from his Honda upgrade. I've didn't take a photo of the original and trimmed heatshields for reference. Sorry.

24. Fit alternator heat shield - again, this takes an age as there is almost no space to work in. Be careful to ensure bolts are aligned properly and no cross threading takes place.

25. Fit new oil filter

26. Refit engine mount bolts

27. Set the new adjustable engine steady bar to same length as the standard steady bar

28. Fit steady bar just with bolts

29. Check that manifold is sufficiently clear of the lower chassis transverse longeron. If not, shorten the adjustable steady bar. When all OK, torque up steady bar bolts and nuts.

30. Refit cat and back box - the exhaust exit pipes may need adjusting to suit the solid manifold.

31. Remove lambda sensor from old manifold. This could have been a tough job, but instead the sensor simply unscrewed with normal spanner usage! The expectation is that the lambda sensor will have siezed, but not in our case (135R with 20k miles)

32. File threads of lambda sensor with thread file, if threads are knackered then use a Ford Sierra 2.0 Pinto spark to rethread.

33. Plug the lambda sensor into position

34. Replace oil

35. Line up the undertray to guesstimate where extra sheet metal will have to be removed (approx 10cm x 15cm piece on the off-side rear of the existing hole.

36. Snip out the sheet metal.

37. Take the car for a spin. Listening for anything 'out of the ordinary'. I went for a 15 minute blast, getting up to 6000rpm - all OK.

38. Check and tighten bolts all around

39. Fix undertray back into position. Using washers to provide 5-10mm extra spacing for the central screws.

40. Wait a little longer for the manifold to have cooled down. Then attempt to replace the manifold heatshield. We had a major challenge here with the top most bolt. Perhaps due to engine block expansion due to heat? Finally in place, the bottom fixing bolt didn't make it though - it simply would not lock into position.

41. Replace boot lid and reconnect ariel.

42. Final cup of tea, and beer. Job well done.

5hrs 30mins to replace all the parts. 11 hours total.

== Result ==
Much more low down torque, gives the car a whole new set of driving characteristics. Most notably when pulling away at lower speeds and gives a much better range for changing up and down. Much improved engine note - much 'cleaner', less boom and noise. Additionally, when slowing at speed the momentum is maintained much longer when throttling back, the engine note changes gentle and progressively. Haven't had the chance to experience differences at top end of the rev range. No difference in MPG / oil usage noted at this time.

== Conclusion ==
A valuable upgrade, definitely recommended for the price. Next step is to tie this into a cam change to extend the characteristics across the full range. For more info on just how a change in manifold design can make such a difference, follow [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=136395] this link.

== Photos ==
A selection of pictures of our day's activities can be found at [http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=15371&l=6db72&id=535283125] this link.

== Credits ==
Credit to SteveB, Steve S2 and BrianDrought who provided this comprehensive activity list based their own experiences.