TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Replace the radiator & cooling fans

2013-03-10T14:46:56Z

Basher111s: /* New Radiator Modifications */

The '''[[radiator|aluminium cored radiator]]''' is positioned horizontally on top of the composite 'crash structure' in the front service compartment. A composite moulding is used to mount the radiator, and also, via extensions at each side, to provide a mounting point for the inside front of the clamshell wheelarch. The radiator must be removed for access to the cooling fan(s).

'''1. [[Remove the front clamshell|Remove S2 front clamshell]]'''

'''2. Drain the coolant and disconnect the feed and return hoses from the radiator'''
*You don't need to drain the whole cooling system, better to just undo the inlet and outlet hoses and catch the coolant in a bucket.
<gallery>
Image: Replace the radiator step 2a.jpg|Looking down onto the inlet pipe where bleed screw is located (MY04 Elise!)
</gallery>

'''3. Release the two fixings securing each water shield to the top rear edge of the radiator mounting panel, and withdraw both shields'''
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 3a.jpg|This photo shows the water shield removed
</gallery>

'''4. Release the tie wraps, and unplug the rad. fan harness connector(s)'''

'''5. Release the single fixing at the bottom of each side extension securing the mounting panel to the bottom flange of the crash structure'''

''NOTE: The procedure documented in the Lotus service notes describes removing the mounting panel to replace the radiator. This it not necessary and it is possible to remove the radiator with the mounting panel in place. This avoid having to remove the front harness wire as well''
*Step not taken.

'''6. Release the three fixings securing the back edge of the mounting panel to the vertical flange on the crash structure, and three fixings along the front edge of the panel'''
*Step not taken.

'''7. Release the four fixings securing the radiator to the mounting panel, and withdraw the panel from the radiator'''
*There are four 's' shaped brackets that hold the radiator in place.
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 7a.jpg|One of the rear brackets holding the radiator to the mounting panel
Image: replace the radiator step 7b.jpg|10mm spanner for this job
Image: replace the radiator step 7c.jpg|The front brackets are secured to the mounting panel here
</gallery>

'''8. Withdraw the radiator and cooling fan assembly. On AC cars, lift the radiator/condenser assembly only sufficiently to release the cooling fans or radiator as required, without disconnecting the refrigerant circuit'''
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 8a.jpg|Car void of radiator!
</gallery>
*The radiator is removed with the fans still attached.

'''9. Release the fan motor from the radiator by removing the four nuts securing the fan shroud to the mounting brackets riveted to the radiator frame. Withdraw the fan harness through the mounting panel grommet'''
*Here the fan tray can be seen attached to the underside of the radiator.
*The replacement Eliseparts radiator had to be drilled in order to take the fan tray assemble and mounting brackets.
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 9a.jpg|Underside of radiator with fan tray attached
</gallery>

'''10. Remove the four screws securing the radiator to the mounting panel'''
*Step not taken!

'''11. Refit the radiator in reverse order to removal and [[Replace the coolant|refill with coolant and bleed]]'''
*The Eliseparts radiator had to be modified to fit the Elise, see below
*Make sure the jubilee clips are tight before fitting the clam back on
*Always verify the radiator is fitted correctly before refitting the front clam

Notes/differences for the 2007-on Elise "S":

1. The crash structure is different to the one above, and you don't need to pull out the entire radiator and fan system (in fact you can't do this if you have a/c)

2. There are were a couple of tricky bolts to undo on either side underneath the crash structure - these were at the front and seemed to connect the crash structure to the bottom of the car and a/c radiator. You have to work from the front and underneath to get at these. It helps if you are double jointed!

3. I found it easier to unbolt the crash pod around the radiator. It was only a few bolts, but gave just that little bit of lateral movement to get the old radiator out.

4. The Eliseparts Pro Alloy Upgrade Radiator is a perfect match for the old one. However, there is a bolt that comes up through the a/c radiator at the front of the crash structure which is almost impossible to get at without pulling the whole assembly out (have to be careful here because of the a/c lines).

You can pull the old radiator out over the top of these bolts, but getting the new one back in over the top is very hard. To make this easier, we just cut out the bolt holes on the radiator and slotted them into place. Be careful when you reinstall the "s" brackets on the radiator fitting - it is very important to make sure they are bolted on the right way, as there are different angles on each end of the bracket.

==New Radiator Modifications==
The [http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts] hi-pressure radiator comes with only a couple of pre-drilled hole for securing to the mounting panel. Further holes need to be made to take the mounting brackets and fan tray assembly.

The simplest approach was to align the new radiator on top of the old OEM radiator and drill through. The holes do not have to be exact as there is allowable movement in mounting points on the panel.

<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 9b.jpg|New [http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts] hi-pressure radiator with insufficient securing holes
Image: replace the radiator step 9c.jpg|The new radiator has to be drilled to attach the mounting brackets and fan tray assembly
Image: replace the radiator step 9d.jpg|New radiator sitting on top of the old OEM rad for aligning the holes needed whilst drilling
</gallery>

* Speedy Fasteners sell a Radiator kit to replace all fixings with stainless steel [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Speedy-Fasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site].

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove S2 front clamshell

2013-03-10T14:44:52Z

Basher111s: /* Whilst She's Off */

[[Image:Front_clamshell_removed.jpg|thumb|left|111R Clamshell removed and sitting on grass!]]
The front clamshell is a bonded assembly of several glass fibre composite mouldings incorporating both front wings, the front access aperture, radiator air intake and headlamp housings. The clamshell is secured to the windscreen frame, radiator mounting panel and other panels using threaded fasteners for ease of removal and to facilitate service access and body repair.

This article provides a step-by-step procedure to facilitate in the removal of the front clamshell to enable maintenance work to be carried out.

The time required is very dependant upon your competence with a spanner and how rusty the bolts are holding the clamshell on. However, SELOC members have commented on timescales of [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=67321&page=1#pid2024244 under half an hour]!

The procedure is relatively simple given the fact your dismantling the front of your car. Only a few basic tools are required but a slow, methodical approach is highly recommended.
{{clr}}

==Procedure==
'''1. Remove both [[Access panel|front body access panels]]'''

'''2. Remove both front wheelarch liners'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 2b.jpg|Nearside wheelarch liner has a couple of electrical components bolted to it
Image:Remove front clamshell step 2c.jpg|Just loosen the liner on the nearside
</gallery>

*Before you can do this the car needs to be raised and supported on the [[jacking points#Front|two front jacking points]].
*It is not necessary to completely remove the nearside liner. It has a relay and fuse box bolted to it and these would need to be removed first (they are not on a clip like the offside). Easier to just looses its fixing bolts for access to the clamshell securing bolts.

'''3. [[Door hinge cover panel|Remove both door hinge cover panels]]'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 3a.jpg|Don't obscure the panels lower bolt access holes
Image:Remove front clamshell step 3b.jpg|Amazing how much crap gathers within the panels
</gallery>

*If you use boxes of paper to support the car make sure the access holes for the panel are not obscured!
*It is not absolutely necessary to remove these panels. All you really need to do is remove the foremost, and slacken the rearmost, of the two screws securing the door hinge cover panel to the clamshell.

'''4. Via each door aperture, remove the single fixing securing a bracket at the top rear corner of the clamshell to the base of the windscreen pillar'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 4a.jpg|Easy access for the ratchet on this one
Image:Remove front clamshell step 4b.jpg|The bolt has a 5mm Hex head
</gallery>

'''5. Remove the fixing at each side securing the clamshell to the bottom of the windscreen frame, and the two nuts securing the clamshell spine to the wiper motor bracket extension'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 5a.jpg|Perhaps the easiest bolts to remove in the whole job!
Image:Remove front clamshell step 5b.jpg|Slightly harder to access these bolts but still very manageable
Image:Remove front clamshell step 5c.jpg|There are two 10mm bolts and washers to remove here
</gallery>

'''6. Remove the single fixing at the bottom front of each wheelarch, securing the clamshell to the radiator panel extension'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 6a.jpg|Easy access with the ratchet and 8mm socket
Image:Remove front clamshell step 6b.jpg|Note the large washer used on this fixing
</gallery>

'''7. [[Remove the headlamp cover]]/mask assembly from each side. Remove the clamshell fixing at the front of each headlamp housing. Release the headlamp harnesses, and feed through the clamshell hole'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 7a.jpg|Remove the thee, 5mm hex head, bolts from within the wheelarch securing the mask assembly
Image:Remove front clamshell step 7b.jpg|Note the top both has a washer to spread the load
Image:Remove front clamshell step 7c.jpg|5mm hex head again with short extension bar
Image:Remove front clamshell step 7d.jpg|These are the same bolts as used in step 5
Image:Remove front clamshell step 7e.jpg|Force the rubber grommet and wires back through the clamshell
Image:Remove front clamshell step 7f.jpg|Just leave them dangling within the wheelarch
</gallery>

'''8. Beneath the nose, release the screws fixing the front lower edge of the clamshell to the alloy undertray'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove the front undertray step 1.jpg|Use a 8mm socket for removing the three bolts
</gallery>
* I went further and actually [[remove the front undertray|removed the front undertray]]. It's not necessary for removal but you'll struggle to put the clam back on with the front undertry still in place.

'''9. Lift the clamshell from the car. Note any spacing washers or shims fitted at any fixing point'''
<gallery>
Image:Remove front clamshell step 9a.jpg|What it looks like
Image:Remove front clamshell step 9b.jpg|The clamshell off the car
</gallery>
*Some additional actions required before attempting to lift the clamshell from the car not listed in the original instructions.
*Unplug the wires going to the alarm switches on both front access cover panels.
*Remove and unplug both indicators from the clamshell.

The plastic screws sometimes will not come out so just carefully pry them out rather than unscrew (if they don't unscrew that is). You may need to replace some of these.

Just take your time and think about what you are doing and it will be fine.

---Notes/differences for the 2007-on Elise "S"---

1. No electrical boxes on the clam (ergo, easier to pull the whel lining out to make more space to work)

2. Most fittings were for an 8mm or 10mm socket

3. Not necessary to remove the door hinge cover panels but its very easy to do so

4. The 07 model (and possibly models thereafter), have a different headlamp arrangment to the one in the wiki. In the 07 "s", there are 3x17mm nuts and one 8mm nut to remove. You then disconnect the plugs, and push the whole unit out of the clam, resting it back in place when removed.

5. In addition to the single 10mm fixing at the bottom front of the clam, there is a 5mm Hex head nut underneath the bottom of the headlight unit.

==Top Tips==
*Remove driving lights. With them in place the clam can get hung up on the lights as the opening tapers to a smaller size. Can damage/crack the clam when removing.
*Never lift the clamshell from the car by yourself, you’ll crack it. Always get someone else to help and lift via the wheel arches
*The awkward bolts are those just behind the wheels that require the inner wheel arch to be pulled out to get access.
*Watch for the adjustment rivets between clamshell and mounting points (around the lid-aperture). Put them back where they were for alignment.
*When you get them back in at the end, don't push the rawlnuts through the holes, they will stay rolling around in the sill forever !
*Before refitting, [[remove the front undertray]] to make it easier to align the clam without having to worry about getting it 'under' the aluminium tray.
*Watch the towing bar eye doesn't get caught on the plastic grills.
*This picture shows all of the clam attachments to help with which bolts go where when reassembling. Note that the numbers do NOT correspond with the steps above.
[[Image:S2_Front_Clam_Attachments_small.jpg]]

==Whilst She's Off==
Other jobs whilst the clam is off:
* [[resistor pack|replace or relocate the cabin blower resistor pack]]
* [[replace the radiator & cooling fans]]
* [[replace the horn]]
* replace all standard bolts & washers with stainless steel. Visit Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Speedy-Fasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site].

==External Links==
http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/experience/maintenance/frontclam/clamremoval.html

http://www.lotus-elise.nl/Mods/Clamshell/clamshell.html

http://freespace.virgin.net/adrian.rose/clamnotes.htm

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Bolt sizes

2013-03-10T14:38:56Z

Basher111s: /* Stockists */

===General elise bolt sizes===

'''Bolt Size: Follow the Thread'''

A thread is basically a continuous protruding or receding helical ridge formed along
the length of a cylinder.

This ridge is referred to as the crest.
The space between each of the crests, or ridge components of a fastener is the root. The crest and ridge of a bolt are set an angle, which is known as the helix angle.

Bolt sizes vary to accommodate differing major diameters. The major diameter is measured by taking into account the outer diameter of the tops of the thread crests on a bolt.

These measurements are expressed in millimetres, and are usually rounded off to the next highest whole number.

For example, A 3.98mm bolt will be referred to as a 4mm bolt.

To make things simpler, bolt sizes are broken down into the letter "M," followed by a number. An M5 bolt for example, is simply a bolt with a five millimetre major diameter.

{| cellpadding="8" cellspacing="0" border="1"
|'''Location of bolt'''
|align="right"|'''Size of bolt'''
|-
|Under tray small
|align="right"|M5 20mm
|-
|Under tray large
|align="right"|M8 25mm
|-
|S2 Access Panel
|align="right"|M5 x 20mm (Button Head)
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|-
|Enter info
|align="right"|Enter info
|}
{{clr}}

===Stockists===

http://www.speedyfasteners.com/

http://www.stagonset.co.uk/

http://www.hes.uk.com/

http://www.tastynuts.com/

http://www.bsr-aerotek.com/

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the rear undertray

2013-03-10T14:36:33Z

Basher111s: /* Just the rearmost tray */

{{Infobox Timetools
|time = 10mins
|tools = 5mm Allen Key, 8mm Socket, Wrench
}}

The rear undertray, or rear tray, needs to be removed for most jobs involving the [[Exhaust silencers|exhaust system]]. It's a relatively simple job and can be done without needing to [[jacking points|jack the car]]. There are in fact two rear undertrays (back and middle) which are bolted together (a third being the [[remove the front undertray|front undertray]]).
{{clr}}

==S1==
How is this different?
It's not - use the same process as the S2.

== S2 ==
The rear undertray is actually two trays bolted together. Although it is only the rearmost of the two trays that need to be removed, it is sometimes simpler to remove both together.

=== Just the rearmost tray ===
[[Image:boltorder.JPG|thumb|left|Bolt removal order]]
Recommended Removal order of the rear under tray bolts are: -
# Remove all the 'RED' doted bolts first, they are 8MM.
# Remove the 'GREEN' dotted bolt, also 8MM.
# Finally remove the 'BLUE' doted Allen bolts.
# Don't forget when you replace the tray that the back tray goes under the middle tray, not on top of.
{{clr}}

<gallery>
Image:TRAY1.JPG|8MM bolt removal, this is one of 12
Image:TRAY2.JPG|All 8MM bolts removed
Image:TRAY3.JPG|One of the two back Allen 5MM bolts
Image:TRAY4.JPG|Removing the 5MM Allen bolts
</gallery>

* It's worth replacing the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Speedy-Fasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site] sell full undertray kits which include all the clips and anti-rattle washers you need.

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S1]]

Remove the rear clamshell

2013-03-10T14:31:52Z

Basher111s: /* Top tips */

[[Image:Rear_clamshell_removed.jpg|thumb|left|Please upload a picture]]
A few of us are removing rear clam currently

add remove some of this

if outside buy halfords small car cover £25

soft/hard top wil need to be off

drive or lift car up onto a 6" concrete blocks

disconnect battery black wire (nearest bulkhead)
{{clr}}

==Procedure==
'''1. Remove roll over bar shroud'''
from inside cabin
4 8mm bolts upwards
remove rool bar black plastic clip things for softtop catches - undo 2 allen bolts
long tail shroud undo allen bolt at each end
lift off shroud - leaves sticky foam on rear clam - where do you buy some more?

'''2. Remove speaker trim panel'''
it's only held in with 4 of those black plastic rivet things with heads that maul when you try to unscrew them
so decided to remove passenger seat
and passenger seat belt top mount to clam shell
seat is only held in by 4 sownward allen bolts (as above)
front 2 are easy to get to
rear tunnel is ok if you have enough extensions
rear near side only if you have a flexible extension,and the bolt is so tight it you need to rotate the seat too, to help it release
( you'll need to remove the bracket holding the lumbar bubble thing too - allen head )
ok then remove the trim panel undoing the speaker wires

all this for
'''3. Remove bolt each side going sideways into the clam'''

'''4. Remove engine cover'''
2 bolts each hinge with assorted washers
unplug the aerial near the engine cover
from inside cabin unscrew 2 nuts per hinge and remove hinge clamp brackets which hold down front of clam

'''5. Have a rest and remove carpet foam etc from within boot'''
remove battery bracket 2 bolts
2 more clam bolts through floor battery side
3 clam bolts right side
discover tyre weld above offside wheel arch

'''6. Remove 2 allen bolts holding ecu unit to boot partition'''
leave ecu where it is

'''7. Remove n/s wheel ( jack car first)'''
remove liner
remove half dozen of those screw plastic rivet things
remove one 8mm bolt just above shock absorber

lift liner over shock absorber - it's tight
easerest of wheel arch liner out of space - its a good job its flexible - I found back end easiest to get out first
and there's a clip holding some wires which you need to poke out from inside the wheel arch

this gives access to 2 bolts holding clam / air box tube/side grill towards front of wheel arch - there may be 'C' shims here!
from inside liner pull battery wires through clam with grommit
same for rear lightcluter wires - undo connector in boot
refit wheel lower jack

'''8. Do same for o/s wheel'''
after removing the liner
undo the 8 screws holding the petrol filler aluminium ring
aand press the filler cap gently - it should unstick and move slighly inside clam

'''9. I found it easier to [[Remove the rear undertray]]'''

'''10. Remove a pozi screw each side holding the grille around the exhaust'''

'''11. You will need to unbolt the exhaust silencer hanger which is bolted to the clam near the N/S/R wheel'''

'''11. Remove one more bolt each side at this point screwing sideways into the clam'''

lift off the clam

refit by reversing the above procedure :)

== Top tips ==

* Worth removing the edge finisher (rubber trim) around the air intake grills, they may be glued on and are attached to the rear clam and the sill panels. If they are glued and you try to remove the clam they will probably tear (although if they are glued you will probably have to replace anyway, part no A111U6034V).

* Replace the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Speedy-Fasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site] sell S1 and S2 clamshell kits.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the rear clamshell

2013-03-10T14:29:34Z

Basher111s: /* Top tips */

[[Image:Rear_clamshell_removed.jpg|thumb|left|Please upload a picture]]
A few of us are removing rear clam currently

add remove some of this

if outside buy halfords small car cover £25

soft/hard top wil need to be off

drive or lift car up onto a 6" concrete blocks

disconnect battery black wire (nearest bulkhead)
{{clr}}

==Procedure==
'''1. Remove roll over bar shroud'''
from inside cabin
4 8mm bolts upwards
remove rool bar black plastic clip things for softtop catches - undo 2 allen bolts
long tail shroud undo allen bolt at each end
lift off shroud - leaves sticky foam on rear clam - where do you buy some more?

'''2. Remove speaker trim panel'''
it's only held in with 4 of those black plastic rivet things with heads that maul when you try to unscrew them
so decided to remove passenger seat
and passenger seat belt top mount to clam shell
seat is only held in by 4 sownward allen bolts (as above)
front 2 are easy to get to
rear tunnel is ok if you have enough extensions
rear near side only if you have a flexible extension,and the bolt is so tight it you need to rotate the seat too, to help it release
( you'll need to remove the bracket holding the lumbar bubble thing too - allen head )
ok then remove the trim panel undoing the speaker wires

all this for
'''3. Remove bolt each side going sideways into the clam'''

'''4. Remove engine cover'''
2 bolts each hinge with assorted washers
unplug the aerial near the engine cover
from inside cabin unscrew 2 nuts per hinge and remove hinge clamp brackets which hold down front of clam

'''5. Have a rest and remove carpet foam etc from within boot'''
remove battery bracket 2 bolts
2 more clam bolts through floor battery side
3 clam bolts right side
discover tyre weld above offside wheel arch

'''6. Remove 2 allen bolts holding ecu unit to boot partition'''
leave ecu where it is

'''7. Remove n/s wheel ( jack car first)'''
remove liner
remove half dozen of those screw plastic rivet things
remove one 8mm bolt just above shock absorber

lift liner over shock absorber - it's tight
easerest of wheel arch liner out of space - its a good job its flexible - I found back end easiest to get out first
and there's a clip holding some wires which you need to poke out from inside the wheel arch

this gives access to 2 bolts holding clam / air box tube/side grill towards front of wheel arch - there may be 'C' shims here!
from inside liner pull battery wires through clam with grommit
same for rear lightcluter wires - undo connector in boot
refit wheel lower jack

'''8. Do same for o/s wheel'''
after removing the liner
undo the 8 screws holding the petrol filler aluminium ring
aand press the filler cap gently - it should unstick and move slighly inside clam

'''9. I found it easier to [[Remove the rear undertray]]'''

'''10. Remove a pozi screw each side holding the grille around the exhaust'''

'''11. You will need to unbolt the exhaust silencer hanger which is bolted to the clam near the N/S/R wheel'''

'''11. Remove one more bolt each side at this point screwing sideways into the clam'''

lift off the clam

refit by reversing the above procedure :)

== Top tips ==

* Worth removing the edge finisher (rubber trim) around the air intake grills, they may be glued on and are attached to the rear clam and the sill panels. If they are glued and you try to remove the clam they will probably tear (although if they are glued you will probably have to replace anyway, part no A111U6034V).

* Replace the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners Web Site] or [http://www.ebay.co.uk/speedyfasteners Speedy Fasteners eBay Site] sell S1 and S2 clamshell kits.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the rear clamshell

2013-03-10T14:11:03Z

Basher111s: /* Top tips */

[[Image:Rear_clamshell_removed.jpg|thumb|left|Please upload a picture]]
A few of us are removing rear clam currently

add remove some of this

if outside buy halfords small car cover £25

soft/hard top wil need to be off

drive or lift car up onto a 6" concrete blocks

disconnect battery black wire (nearest bulkhead)
{{clr}}

==Procedure==
'''1. Remove roll over bar shroud'''
from inside cabin
4 8mm bolts upwards
remove rool bar black plastic clip things for softtop catches - undo 2 allen bolts
long tail shroud undo allen bolt at each end
lift off shroud - leaves sticky foam on rear clam - where do you buy some more?

'''2. Remove speaker trim panel'''
it's only held in with 4 of those black plastic rivet things with heads that maul when you try to unscrew them
so decided to remove passenger seat
and passenger seat belt top mount to clam shell
seat is only held in by 4 sownward allen bolts (as above)
front 2 are easy to get to
rear tunnel is ok if you have enough extensions
rear near side only if you have a flexible extension,and the bolt is so tight it you need to rotate the seat too, to help it release
( you'll need to remove the bracket holding the lumbar bubble thing too - allen head )
ok then remove the trim panel undoing the speaker wires

all this for
'''3. Remove bolt each side going sideways into the clam'''

'''4. Remove engine cover'''
2 bolts each hinge with assorted washers
unplug the aerial near the engine cover
from inside cabin unscrew 2 nuts per hinge and remove hinge clamp brackets which hold down front of clam

'''5. Have a rest and remove carpet foam etc from within boot'''
remove battery bracket 2 bolts
2 more clam bolts through floor battery side
3 clam bolts right side
discover tyre weld above offside wheel arch

'''6. Remove 2 allen bolts holding ecu unit to boot partition'''
leave ecu where it is

'''7. Remove n/s wheel ( jack car first)'''
remove liner
remove half dozen of those screw plastic rivet things
remove one 8mm bolt just above shock absorber

lift liner over shock absorber - it's tight
easerest of wheel arch liner out of space - its a good job its flexible - I found back end easiest to get out first
and there's a clip holding some wires which you need to poke out from inside the wheel arch

this gives access to 2 bolts holding clam / air box tube/side grill towards front of wheel arch - there may be 'C' shims here!
from inside liner pull battery wires through clam with grommit
same for rear lightcluter wires - undo connector in boot
refit wheel lower jack

'''8. Do same for o/s wheel'''
after removing the liner
undo the 8 screws holding the petrol filler aluminium ring
aand press the filler cap gently - it should unstick and move slighly inside clam

'''9. I found it easier to [[Remove the rear undertray]]'''

'''10. Remove a pozi screw each side holding the grille around the exhaust'''

'''11. You will need to unbolt the exhaust silencer hanger which is bolted to the clam near the N/S/R wheel'''

'''11. Remove one more bolt each side at this point screwing sideways into the clam'''

lift off the clam

refit by reversing the above procedure :)

== Top tips ==

* Worth removing the edge finisher (rubber trim) around the air intake grills, they may be glued on and are attached to the rear clam and the sill panels. If they are glued and you try to remove the clam they will probably tear (although if they are glued you will probably have to replace anyway, part no A111U6034V).

* Replace the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com Speedy Fasteners] sell S1 and S2 clamshell kits.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the rear clamshell

2013-03-10T14:10:34Z

Basher111s: /* Top tips */

[[Image:Rear_clamshell_removed.jpg|thumb|left|Please upload a picture]]
A few of us are removing rear clam currently

add remove some of this

if outside buy halfords small car cover £25

soft/hard top wil need to be off

drive or lift car up onto a 6" concrete blocks

disconnect battery black wire (nearest bulkhead)
{{clr}}

==Procedure==
'''1. Remove roll over bar shroud'''
from inside cabin
4 8mm bolts upwards
remove rool bar black plastic clip things for softtop catches - undo 2 allen bolts
long tail shroud undo allen bolt at each end
lift off shroud - leaves sticky foam on rear clam - where do you buy some more?

'''2. Remove speaker trim panel'''
it's only held in with 4 of those black plastic rivet things with heads that maul when you try to unscrew them
so decided to remove passenger seat
and passenger seat belt top mount to clam shell
seat is only held in by 4 sownward allen bolts (as above)
front 2 are easy to get to
rear tunnel is ok if you have enough extensions
rear near side only if you have a flexible extension,and the bolt is so tight it you need to rotate the seat too, to help it release
( you'll need to remove the bracket holding the lumbar bubble thing too - allen head )
ok then remove the trim panel undoing the speaker wires

all this for
'''3. Remove bolt each side going sideways into the clam'''

'''4. Remove engine cover'''
2 bolts each hinge with assorted washers
unplug the aerial near the engine cover
from inside cabin unscrew 2 nuts per hinge and remove hinge clamp brackets which hold down front of clam

'''5. Have a rest and remove carpet foam etc from within boot'''
remove battery bracket 2 bolts
2 more clam bolts through floor battery side
3 clam bolts right side
discover tyre weld above offside wheel arch

'''6. Remove 2 allen bolts holding ecu unit to boot partition'''
leave ecu where it is

'''7. Remove n/s wheel ( jack car first)'''
remove liner
remove half dozen of those screw plastic rivet things
remove one 8mm bolt just above shock absorber

lift liner over shock absorber - it's tight
easerest of wheel arch liner out of space - its a good job its flexible - I found back end easiest to get out first
and there's a clip holding some wires which you need to poke out from inside the wheel arch

this gives access to 2 bolts holding clam / air box tube/side grill towards front of wheel arch - there may be 'C' shims here!
from inside liner pull battery wires through clam with grommit
same for rear lightcluter wires - undo connector in boot
refit wheel lower jack

'''8. Do same for o/s wheel'''
after removing the liner
undo the 8 screws holding the petrol filler aluminium ring
aand press the filler cap gently - it should unstick and move slighly inside clam

'''9. I found it easier to [[Remove the rear undertray]]'''

'''10. Remove a pozi screw each side holding the grille around the exhaust'''

'''11. You will need to unbolt the exhaust silencer hanger which is bolted to the clam near the N/S/R wheel'''

'''11. Remove one more bolt each side at this point screwing sideways into the clam'''

lift off the clam

refit by reversing the above procedure :)

== Top tips ==

* Worth removing the edge finisher (rubber trim) around the air intake grills, they may be glued on and are attached to the rear clam and the sill panels. If they are glued and you try to remove the clam they will probably tear (although if they are glued you will probably have to replace anyway, part no A111U6034V).

* Replace the standard zinc bolts & washers with quality Stainless Steel ones. Speedy Fasteners [http://www.speedyfasteners.com] sell S1 and S2 clamshell kits.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Speedy Fasteners

2012-05-11T18:09:03Z

Basher111s: Created page with "===Speedy Fasteners=== Speedy Fasteners can be found on ebay (just search for Speedy Fasteners shop) and at the web address below. They have put together most bolts kits you'll..."

===Speedy Fasteners===

Speedy Fasteners can be found on ebay (just search for Speedy Fasteners shop) and at the web address below. They have put together most bolts kits you'll need i.e under tray and clam kits but also stock spring clips, plastic screw rivets and rubber well nuts. Also enter SELOC10 at checkout for an extra discount. They accept PayPal as well as card payments.

* http://www.speedyfasteners.com

[[Category:Suppliers]]

Steve Williams Sports Cars

2012-05-09T19:59:25Z

Basher111s:

===Steve Williams Sports Cars===

Independent Lotus specialist, servicing, bodyshop, styling and tuning. Stocks most of the usual parts and tyres, so is always worth a call even for parts, or just for brutally honest advice.

* http://www.swlotus.com/

[[Category:Suppliers]]

Steve Williams Sports Cars

2012-05-09T19:57:58Z

Basher111s:

===Speedy Fasteners===

* http://www.speedyfasteners.com/

[[Category:Suppliers]]