https://wiki.seloc.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Black+potatoTechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]2026-04-06T13:55:23ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.45.3https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_wishbone_bushes&diff=7968Change wishbone bushes2009-06-08T21:23:07Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>This procedure details how to change the nearside upper and lower wishbone bushes on an S2 K-series Lotus Elise. An identical procedure is used to replace the offside front wishbone bushes and most of the principles apply when changing the rear upper and lower wishbone bushes.<br />
<br />
The wishbones on the S1 Elise are very similar. The main differences are:-<br />
<br />
S2 front wishbones are approximately 8mm longer per side and the bottom front wishbones have different damper mounting points.<br />
<br />
The damper mounting points are in the same place on the rear wishbones, but the handbrake cable restraint is different.<br />
<br />
So this procedure can also be used for the S1.<br />
<br />
Several types of wishbone bushes can be fitted to the Lotus Elise:-<br />
<br />
<br />
* '''OEM''' - Good ride quality, ideal for normal road, fast road and track use. The central steel sleeve is bonded to the rubber so it does not pivot around it freely.<br />
* '''Polyurethene''' - Good ride quality, ideal for normal road, fast road and track use. The central sleeve rotates freely within the bush.<br />
* '''Nylatron''' - Firm ride quality and not recommended for normal road use, ideal for fast road and track use. The central sleeve rotates freely within the bush.<br />
* '''Spherical Joints''' - Harsh ride quality and recommended for track use only. These are not bushes, but close tolerance stainless steel bearings, commonly known as Rose Joints and need to be welded into the wishbones. These are not suitable as DIY replacements.<br />
<br />
<br />
OEM wishbone bushes do not require periodic maintenance. Maintaining polyurethene and nylatron bushes is much easier than fitting them. The wishbones do not need to be completely removed from the car if you need to re-grease the sleeves. All wishbones can be removed from the chassis by just taking out the wishbone bolts and sliding the wishbones out. All other suspension and brake components can remain in place. Only the brake pipe clamps need to be removed and care must be taken to ensure that the brake pipes are not under strain when maintaining the bushes.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19g_Upper_Wishbone_Removed_Without_Removing_Ball_Joint.JPG|This photograph shows polyurethene bushes being maintained in the front upper wishbone with all other components undisturbed, apart from the brake pipe clamp.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Polyurethane bushes are shown being fitted using this procedure and I have explained the different steps required for fitting OEM, polyurethene and nylatron bushes where appropriate.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Periodic maintenance is required for polyurethene bushes. If the grease dries out then the sleeves will become scored and the inside of the bushes will start to break up.<br />
<br />
Here are a couple of photographs showing a sleeve and it's bush that have not been regreased for 35,000 miles.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Scored_Polyurethene_Bush_Sleeve.JPG<br />
Image:Scored_Polyurethene_Bush.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Nylatron bushes require even more regular maintinance. Whilst the bush material is harder wearing the lubrication gets expelled very quickly when they are used on the road. These inserts are from a car that only covered 15,000 miles in 2 years of largely dry miles.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/nylatroninserts.jpg<br />
<br />
<br />
== Procedure ==<br />
[[Remove the front undertray|1. Remove the front undertray.]]<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:2_Loosen_Bolts_on_Road_Wheel.JPG|2. Loosen the bolts/nuts on the front road wheel.<br />
Image:3_Lift_Car_Using_Rear_Jacking_Point.JPG|3. Lift the car using the rear jacking point.<br />
Image:4_Use_Fixed_Support_Under_Front_Jacking_Point.JPG|4. Place a fixed support under the front jacking point and lower the jack.<br />
<br />
Image:5_Remove_Brake_Pipe_Clamp.JPG|5. Remove the road wheel and then the brake pipe clamp.<br />
Image:6_Remove_Brake_Caliper.JPG|6. Remove the brake caliper.<br />
Image:7_Remove_Brake_Disc.JPG|7. Remove the brake disc and cable tie the caliper out of the way. Ensure the brake pipe is not under any strain.<br />
Image:8a_Remove_Damper_Assembly.JPG|8a. Remove the damper.<br />
<br />
Image:8b_Damper_Assembly_Removed.JPG|8b. Damper removed.<br />
Image:9_Remove_Drop_Link.JPG|9. Remove the drop link from the lower wishbone.<br />
Image:10_Remove_Upper_&_Lower_Ball_Joint_Nuts.JPG|10. Remove the upper and lower ball joint nuts.<br />
Image:11_Remove_Both_Ball_Joints.JPG|11. Remove the upper and lower ball joints from the hub carrier. I prefer to use a fork splitter, but there is a high probability of damaging the ball joint dust covers. Some people prefer to use a scissor type splitter for this step.<br />
Image:12_Hub_Carrier_Removed.JPG|12. The ball joints are both removed from the hub carrier. If you apply some lubricant to the ball joint dust cover when using a fork splitter it can prevent the dust cover from splitting.<br />
<br />
Image:13_The_spring_Clips_Usually_Come_Off_the_Balljoint_Rubber.JPG|13. The retaining springs always come off the dust covers when using a fork splitter, but they are easy to put back on if lubricant has been used.<br />
Image:14a_Remove_the_Upper_Wishbone_1.JPG|14a. Remove the upper wishbone. There are four shims for both the front and the rear bushes. Make a note of where they are positioned as the number of shims placed either side of the bush set the castor angle.<br />
The shims must be reassembled in the same order as they came off. The same number of shims must be placed either side of the rear bush as the front bush. The front bush uses large diameter shims and one of them is a snubber washer that has rubber bonded onto each face. It is important to place this shim in the correct position because it is there to prevent metal to metal contact when using OEM bushes. The rear bush uses small diameter shims.<br />
Image:14b_Remove_The_Upper_Wishbone_2.JPG|14b. Remove the upper wishbone continued.<br />
Image:15b_Upper_Wishbone_Removed_2.JPG|15a. The upper wishbone has been removed.<br />
Image:15c_Upper_Wishbone.JPG|15b. This photograph shows the upper wishbone off the car.<br />
Image:19h_Snubber_Washer.JPG|Snubber washer.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If you are fitting nylatron or polyurethane bushes you will not be able to refit the snubber washer without modifying it, so you will either need to remove the rubber from the faces of the shim or replace it with a standard large diameter shim. The snubber washer is not designed to be used with aftermarket bushes because the flat of the washer will not make proper contact with the sleeve of the wishbone. This will result in the sleeve not being clamped up tight.<br />
<br />
It is worth using new shims when replacing wishbone bushes.<br />
<br />
<br />
Part numbers for replacement shims:-<br />
<br />
* A111C0080F (Qty 8) - Shim, castor adjustment, small <br />
<br />
* A111C0077F (Qty 6) - Shim, castor adjustment <br />
<br />
* A111C0081F (Qty 2) - Snubber washer, rubber coated upper wishbone <br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:16a_Remove_Lower_Wishbone_1.JPG|16a. Remove the lower wishbone. If you are working on your own you will find that it is impossible to remove the rear lower wishbone bolt. To overcome this problem I cable tie a ring spanner to the lower wishbone so that I can remove the bolt from inside the footwell without an assistant.<br />
<br />
Image:16b_Remove_Lower_Wishbone_2.JPG|16b. If you are working on the nearside and you have a passenger foot rest you will need to remove it first and then you can access the wishbone bolt.<br />
Image:16c_Lower_Wishbone.JPG|16c. Lower wishbone removed from the car.<br />
Image:17_Both_Wishbones_Removed.JPG|17. Both wishbones have been removed from the car.<br />
Image:18a_Remove_Sleeve_from_Polybush.JPG|18a. If you are removing a polyurethane bush you will need to tap out the stainless steel sleeve first. I use a slightly smaller diameter sleeve to tap out the bush sleeve. The same process can be applied if you are removing nylatron bush sleeves that have become tight. Do NOT do this if you are removing an OEM bush.<br />
<br />
Image:18b_Remove_Polybush_From_Wishbone.JPG|18b. The polyurethane bush can be tapped out easily using a 7/8 inch socket. I have removed nylatron bushes by tapping out the bottom bush using a screwdriver through the centre hole from the top bush, but the bush is not reusable with this method as the screwdriver damages the bush. It is NOT possible to remove an OEM bush by using either of these methods.<br />
<br />
Image:18c_Remove_Standard_Bush_From_Wishbone.JPG|18c. I have added this photograph to show how an OEM bush can be removed from the wishbone. This photograph is an indication of how to remove an OEM bush as the one shown is polyurethane and CANNOT be removed by this method.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
The top hat is much thinner on an OEM bush so the 7/8 inch socket on the left can break the top hat and push the bush through the wishbone easily. The 11/8 inch socket on the right will allow the bush to be pressed out of the wishbone by about 1 inch.<br />
<br />
The assembly will then need to be removed from the vice and reinserted as in step 18b. The 7/8 inch socket can be used to tap out the remainder of the bush. The OEM bush is NOT reusable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Different methods are used to press in the bushes dependant upon whether OEM, nylatron or polyurethane bushes are being used. In this procedure I have re-fitted polyurethane bushes which are reusable and can be inserted by hand. Nylatron and OEM bushes need to be pressed in to fit. I have never fitted OEM bushes but pressing it should be possible using a heavy duty bench vice and suitable lubricant. Nylatron bushes can definitely be pressed in using a bench vice.<br />
<br />
It is important that the bushes are inserted into the wishbones in the correct way. The drawing below shows which way to insert both OEM and polyurethane bushes into the front upper and lower wishbones. You will see that the top wishbone bushes are inserted from the outside and the lower wishbone bushes are inserted from the inside of the wishbones. The same method applies to the rear wishbones. Nylatron bushes are designed differently and two bushes are used for each joint; one bush inserted from either end.<br />
<br />
Copper grease needs to be applied to the sleeves on polyurethene bushes during assembly to ensure the sleeves rotate freely in the bushes but it is not recommended for nylatron. Molybdenum grease is the recommended lubricant for nylatron bushes and they will probably need to be reamed after they are pressed in to ensure the sleeve rotates freely in the bush. The tolerance of the wishbone means the two bushes will not always line up exactly when they are inserted from opposite ends. This means the sleeve will not rotate freely and they will tend to bind when in use if they are not fettled.<br />
[[Image:Polybush4.JPG]]<br />
<br />
I was not happy with my polyurethane bush installation for the front upper wishbones and I have subsequently made a modification by replacing the small diameter shims that are used on the top rear bushes with the large diameter shims used for the front top wishbone bush. I have found that the small shims penetrate into the polyurethane bushes when the car is driven, like this:-<br />
<br />
[[Image:Polybush2.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19c_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_Fitted.JPG|This photograph shows how the front upper rear wishbone bush had moved after the car was driven. Both rear shims had penetrated the bush which is now misaligned.<br />
Image:19d_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_showing_Both_Shims_Embedded.JPG|This photograph shows both rear shims embedded into the polyurethene bush.<br />
Image:19e_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_Showing_Embedded_Shims_Removed.JPG|This photograph shows both shims removed from the bush and you can see that the inner sleeve has been pushed forward.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
This is how I have subsequently fitted the shims on the upper front wishbones:-<br />
[[Image:Polybush5.JPG]]<br />
<br />
When the bushes have been fitted, the wishbones need to be re-attached to the car. The reassembly procedure is more or less the reverse of disassembly.<br />
<br />
It can be very difficult to get the castor shims back in on the upper front wishbone assembly. It is even more difficult if you are fitting nylatron bushes as you cannot compress the top hats of the bushes. You can superglue the shims together before re-assembly, but this does not work very well if you are re-using old shims because their faces will have become rusty. I fit the shims as closely as possible by tapping them in gently trying not to break the superglue then I use a tapered drift to align the centre holes so the wishbone bolt fits. Do not be tempted to use excessive force to drive the wishbone bolt in as this will result in the bolt thread becoming damaged. If you are re-fitting the small diameter shims you will find they are much harder to fit than the large diameter shims and if you use excessive force the small shims will distort and you will not be able to pass the wishbone bolt through them.<br />
<br />
'''Once again, because this is important.''' If you are fitting nylatron or polyurethane bushes you will not be able to refit the snubber washer without modifying it, so you will either need to remove the rubber from the faces of the shim or replace it with a standard large diameter shim. The snubber washer is not designed to be used with aftermarket bushes because the flat of the washer will not make proper contact with the sleeve of the wishbone. This will result in the sleeve not being clamped up tight.<br />
<br />
It is worth using new shims when replacing wishbone bushes.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19h_Snubber_Washer.JPG|Snubber washer.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If you are fitting nylatron or polyurethane bushes then you can torque tighten all of the wishbone bolts without having to fully re-build the assembly.<br />
<br />
If you are fitting OEM bushes then all of the components must be fitted loosely. The bolts cannot be torque tightened at this stage because the suspension needs to be loaded and sitting at normal ride height otherwise the bushes will try to rip themselves apart during use as they will be tightened at the wrong orientation.<br />
<br />
Lotus recommend smearing grease on the wishbone bolt shanks before re-assembly when fitting OEM bushes and do not get any grease on the bolt threads. This is not necessary when fitting nylatron or polyurethene bushes because the sleeves do not rotate around the bolt. Both the bolt and sleeves remain fixed and the bushes rotate around the sleeves.<br />
<br />
Step 19. Torque tighten the upper wishbone bolts to 45Nm after fitting polyurethane or nylatron bushes. Both front and rear are easily accessible.<br />
<br />
When fitting nylatron bushes you must ensure that when the bolts have been torque tightened each wishbone drops under its own weight. If you need to apply any force to lower the wishbone then the sleeves are too tight in the bushes and the wishbone will have to be removed and further reaming will be required to ensure the sleeves are not too tight in the bush. This is important because the handling of the car may be affected if the sleeves are too tight as the wishbones will have a tendancy to drag. Also there will be a tendancy for the bushes to rotate in the wishbone instead of the sleeves which will polish and start to wear out the wishbone. But more importantly, badly fitted nylatron bushes are dangerous because if the sleeves bind in the bushes the wishbone bolts can become loose because the nuts will try to unwind themselves when the suspension raises and lowers in use. If you see the bushes rotating in the wishbone then you must not continue assembing the suspension.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19_Torque_Upper_Wishbone.JPG|19a. Remember, you must loosely fit OEM bushes at this stage and assemble the suspension completely then load it to the normal ride height before torque tightening the wishbone bolts.<br />
Image:19b_Upper_Front_Wishbone_Bush_Fitted.JPG|19b. This photoraph is a close up of the upper front wishbone bush fitted with a polyurethene bush after it has been torque tightened.<br />
Image:19f_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_Fitted_With_Large_Diameter_Shims.JPG|19c. I have used large diameter shims for the upper rear wishbone and they are much easier to fit than the small diameter shims. Also they will not embed themselves in the polyurethene bush.<br />
Image:20a_Torque_Lower_Wishbone_1.JPG|20a. Refit the lower wishbone. The front nut and bolt are easily accessible. If you are working on your own you will find that it is impossible to torque tighten the lower rear wishbone bolt. To overcome this problem I cable tie a ring spanner to the lower wishbone so that I can torque tighten the bolt from inside the foot well without an assistant.<br />
Image:20b_Torque_Lower_Wishbone_2.JPG|20b. The rear lower wishbone bolt can be torque tightened to 45Nm from inside the footwell.<br />
Image:21_Replace_Passenger_Footrest.JPG|21. If you are working on the nearside you can replace the passenger foot rest.<br />
Image:22_Torque_Drop_Link.JPG|22. Torque tighten the drop link to 45NM.<br />
Image:23_Loosley_Fit_Damper_Assembly.JPG|23. You can loosely fit the damper at this stage. I find it easier to fit now rather than later because the hub carrier is not in the way. Ensure that you grease the top hat washers where they come into contact with the damper. The bolts cannot be torque tightened at this point because the suspension needs to be loaded and sitting at normal ride height otherwise the damper bushes will try to rip themselves apart during use as they will be tightened at the wrong orientation.<br />
Image:24_Fit_Hub_Assembly.JPG|24. The hub assembly can now be refitted. The suspension needs to be loaded by placing a jack under the hub carrier and jacked to normal ride height. Both upper and lower ball joints can be torque tightened to 55Nm although you will not be able to use a torque wrench on the lower ball joint nut if you only have a basic tool kit, in which case you will have to estimate the correct torque using a ring spanner.<br />
Image:25_Torque_Damper_Assembly.JPG|25. The damper can now be torque tightened to 45Nm and if you have fitted OEM wishbone bushes all of the wishbone bolts can be torque tightened to 45Nm at this stage.<br />
Image:26_Slacken_Off_Brake_Pad.JPG|26. Refit the brake disc. You may find that you will need to slacken off one of the brake pads if your disc has developed a lip. I use a clamp and an old steel rule on the face of the pad to spread the load.<br />
Image:27_Measure_Brake_Disc_Thickness.JPG|27. It is always a good idea to measure the thickness of your brake disc at regular intervals to ensure it is still within tolerance.<br />
Image:28_Torque_Brake_Caliper.JPG|28. Refit the brake caliper and torque tighten it to 45Nm.<br />
Image:29_Refit_Brake_Pipe_Clamp.JPG|29. Refit the brake pipe clamp.<br />
Image:30_Refit_Front_Undertray.JPG|30. Refit the front under tray unless you are about to start on the other side of the car.<br />
Image:31_Nip_Up_Road_Wheel_Bolts.JPG|31. Refit the road wheel and nip the wheel bolts/nuts up. Check to ensure there is no play in any of the suspension components by trying to rock the wheel from side to side by holding it at a quarter to three.<br />
Image:32_Torque_Road_Wheel_Bolts.JPG|32. Lower the car to the ground and torque up the road wheel bolts to 105Nm on an S2 or the wheel nuts to 80-85Nm on an S1. Press the brake pedal several times to get the pedal feel back.<br />
</gallery><br />
As this is major suspension work it is advisable to check and adjust the suspension geometry. See http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Geo_Setups<br />
<br />
The diagram below shows which way the OEM bushes should be inserted into the wishbones. Note that there are 3 different part numbers and they are the same for both S1 & S2.<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Inserting_OEM_Bushes_into_Wishbones.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
These part numbers have been superceded by the new part numbers shown below:-<br />
<br />
Revised wishbone bush part numbers<br />
<br />
* Front Suspension<br />
** Upper wishbone rear pivot bush A116C0035F<br />
** Lower wishbone/upper wishbone front pivot bushes A116C0068F<br />
* Rear Suspension<br />
** Lower wishbone front pivot short bushes A116C0067<br />
** Lower wishbone rear/upper wishbone bushes A116C0068F<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Suspension]]<br />
[[Category:DIY]]<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]<br />
[[Category:S2]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Change_wishbone_bushes&diff=7967Change wishbone bushes2009-06-08T21:21:16Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>This procedure details how to change the nearside upper and lower wishbone bushes on an S2 K-series Lotus Elise. An identical procedure is used to replace the offside front wishbone bushes and most of the principles apply when changing the rear upper and lower wishbone bushes.<br />
<br />
The wishbones on the S1 Elise are very similar. The main differences are:-<br />
<br />
S2 front wishbones are approximately 8mm longer per side and the bottom front wishbones have different damper mounting points.<br />
<br />
The damper mounting points are in the same place on the rear wishbones, but the handbrake cable restraint is different.<br />
<br />
So this procedure can also be used for the S1.<br />
<br />
Several types of wishbone bushes can be fitted to the Lotus Elise:-<br />
<br />
<br />
* '''OEM''' - Good ride quality, ideal for normal road, fast road and track use. The central steel sleeve is bonded to the rubber so it does not pivot around it freely.<br />
* '''Polyurethene''' - Good ride quality, ideal for normal road, fast road and track use. The central sleeve rotates freely within the bush.<br />
* '''Nylatron''' - Firm ride quality and not recommended for normal road use, ideal for fast road and track use. The central sleeve rotates freely within the bush.<br />
* '''Spherical Joints''' - Harsh ride quality and recommended for track use only. These are not bushes, but close tolerance stainless steel bearings, commonly known as Rose Joints and need to be welded into the wishbones. These are not suitable as DIY replacements.<br />
<br />
<br />
OEM wishbone bushes do not require periodic maintenance. Maintaining polyurethene and nylatron bushes is much easier than fitting them. The wishbones do not need to be completely removed from the car if you need to re-grease the sleeves. All wishbones can be removed from the chassis by just taking out the wishbone bolts and sliding the wishbones out. All other suspension and brake components can remain in place. Only the brake pipe clamps need to be removed and care must be taken to ensure that the brake pipes are not under strain when maintaining the bushes.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19g_Upper_Wishbone_Removed_Without_Removing_Ball_Joint.JPG|This photograph shows polyurethene bushes being maintained in the front upper wishbone with all other components undisturbed, apart from the brake pipe clamp.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Polyurethane bushes are shown being fitted using this procedure and I have explained the different steps required for fitting OEM, polyurethene and nylatron bushes where appropriate.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Periodic maintenance is required for polyurethene bushes. If the grease dries out then the sleeves will become scored and the inside of the bushes will start to break up.<br />
<br />
Here are a couple of photographs showing a sleeve and it's bush that have not been regreased for 35,000 miles.<br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Scored_Polyurethene_Bush_Sleeve.JPG<br />
Image:Scored_Polyurethene_Bush.JPG<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
Nylatron bushes require even more regular maintinance. Whilst the bush material is harder wearing the lubrication gets expelled very quickly when they are used on the road. These inserts are from a car that only covered 15,000 miles in 2 years of largely dry miles.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Procedure ==<br />
[[Remove the front undertray|1. Remove the front undertray.]]<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:2_Loosen_Bolts_on_Road_Wheel.JPG|2. Loosen the bolts/nuts on the front road wheel.<br />
Image:3_Lift_Car_Using_Rear_Jacking_Point.JPG|3. Lift the car using the rear jacking point.<br />
Image:4_Use_Fixed_Support_Under_Front_Jacking_Point.JPG|4. Place a fixed support under the front jacking point and lower the jack.<br />
<br />
Image:5_Remove_Brake_Pipe_Clamp.JPG|5. Remove the road wheel and then the brake pipe clamp.<br />
Image:6_Remove_Brake_Caliper.JPG|6. Remove the brake caliper.<br />
Image:7_Remove_Brake_Disc.JPG|7. Remove the brake disc and cable tie the caliper out of the way. Ensure the brake pipe is not under any strain.<br />
Image:8a_Remove_Damper_Assembly.JPG|8a. Remove the damper.<br />
<br />
Image:8b_Damper_Assembly_Removed.JPG|8b. Damper removed.<br />
Image:9_Remove_Drop_Link.JPG|9. Remove the drop link from the lower wishbone.<br />
Image:10_Remove_Upper_&_Lower_Ball_Joint_Nuts.JPG|10. Remove the upper and lower ball joint nuts.<br />
Image:11_Remove_Both_Ball_Joints.JPG|11. Remove the upper and lower ball joints from the hub carrier. I prefer to use a fork splitter, but there is a high probability of damaging the ball joint dust covers. Some people prefer to use a scissor type splitter for this step.<br />
Image:12_Hub_Carrier_Removed.JPG|12. The ball joints are both removed from the hub carrier. If you apply some lubricant to the ball joint dust cover when using a fork splitter it can prevent the dust cover from splitting.<br />
<br />
Image:13_The_spring_Clips_Usually_Come_Off_the_Balljoint_Rubber.JPG|13. The retaining springs always come off the dust covers when using a fork splitter, but they are easy to put back on if lubricant has been used.<br />
Image:14a_Remove_the_Upper_Wishbone_1.JPG|14a. Remove the upper wishbone. There are four shims for both the front and the rear bushes. Make a note of where they are positioned as the number of shims placed either side of the bush set the castor angle.<br />
The shims must be reassembled in the same order as they came off. The same number of shims must be placed either side of the rear bush as the front bush. The front bush uses large diameter shims and one of them is a snubber washer that has rubber bonded onto each face. It is important to place this shim in the correct position because it is there to prevent metal to metal contact when using OEM bushes. The rear bush uses small diameter shims.<br />
Image:14b_Remove_The_Upper_Wishbone_2.JPG|14b. Remove the upper wishbone continued.<br />
Image:15b_Upper_Wishbone_Removed_2.JPG|15a. The upper wishbone has been removed.<br />
Image:15c_Upper_Wishbone.JPG|15b. This photograph shows the upper wishbone off the car.<br />
Image:19h_Snubber_Washer.JPG|Snubber washer.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If you are fitting nylatron or polyurethane bushes you will not be able to refit the snubber washer without modifying it, so you will either need to remove the rubber from the faces of the shim or replace it with a standard large diameter shim. The snubber washer is not designed to be used with aftermarket bushes because the flat of the washer will not make proper contact with the sleeve of the wishbone. This will result in the sleeve not being clamped up tight.<br />
<br />
It is worth using new shims when replacing wishbone bushes.<br />
<br />
<br />
Part numbers for replacement shims:-<br />
<br />
* A111C0080F (Qty 8) - Shim, castor adjustment, small <br />
<br />
* A111C0077F (Qty 6) - Shim, castor adjustment <br />
<br />
* A111C0081F (Qty 2) - Snubber washer, rubber coated upper wishbone <br />
<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:16a_Remove_Lower_Wishbone_1.JPG|16a. Remove the lower wishbone. If you are working on your own you will find that it is impossible to remove the rear lower wishbone bolt. To overcome this problem I cable tie a ring spanner to the lower wishbone so that I can remove the bolt from inside the footwell without an assistant.<br />
<br />
Image:16b_Remove_Lower_Wishbone_2.JPG|16b. If you are working on the nearside and you have a passenger foot rest you will need to remove it first and then you can access the wishbone bolt.<br />
Image:16c_Lower_Wishbone.JPG|16c. Lower wishbone removed from the car.<br />
Image:17_Both_Wishbones_Removed.JPG|17. Both wishbones have been removed from the car.<br />
Image:18a_Remove_Sleeve_from_Polybush.JPG|18a. If you are removing a polyurethane bush you will need to tap out the stainless steel sleeve first. I use a slightly smaller diameter sleeve to tap out the bush sleeve. The same process can be applied if you are removing nylatron bush sleeves that have become tight. Do NOT do this if you are removing an OEM bush.<br />
<br />
Image:18b_Remove_Polybush_From_Wishbone.JPG|18b. The polyurethane bush can be tapped out easily using a 7/8 inch socket. I have removed nylatron bushes by tapping out the bottom bush using a screwdriver through the centre hole from the top bush, but the bush is not reusable with this method as the screwdriver damages the bush. It is NOT possible to remove an OEM bush by using either of these methods.<br />
<br />
Image:18c_Remove_Standard_Bush_From_Wishbone.JPG|18c. I have added this photograph to show how an OEM bush can be removed from the wishbone. This photograph is an indication of how to remove an OEM bush as the one shown is polyurethane and CANNOT be removed by this method.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
The top hat is much thinner on an OEM bush so the 7/8 inch socket on the left can break the top hat and push the bush through the wishbone easily. The 11/8 inch socket on the right will allow the bush to be pressed out of the wishbone by about 1 inch.<br />
<br />
The assembly will then need to be removed from the vice and reinserted as in step 18b. The 7/8 inch socket can be used to tap out the remainder of the bush. The OEM bush is NOT reusable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Different methods are used to press in the bushes dependant upon whether OEM, nylatron or polyurethane bushes are being used. In this procedure I have re-fitted polyurethane bushes which are reusable and can be inserted by hand. Nylatron and OEM bushes need to be pressed in to fit. I have never fitted OEM bushes but pressing it should be possible using a heavy duty bench vice and suitable lubricant. Nylatron bushes can definitely be pressed in using a bench vice.<br />
<br />
It is important that the bushes are inserted into the wishbones in the correct way. The drawing below shows which way to insert both OEM and polyurethane bushes into the front upper and lower wishbones. You will see that the top wishbone bushes are inserted from the outside and the lower wishbone bushes are inserted from the inside of the wishbones. The same method applies to the rear wishbones. Nylatron bushes are designed differently and two bushes are used for each joint; one bush inserted from either end.<br />
<br />
Copper grease needs to be applied to the sleeves on polyurethene bushes during assembly to ensure the sleeves rotate freely in the bushes but it is not recommended for nylatron. Molybdenum grease is the recommended lubricant for nylatron bushes and they will probably need to be reamed after they are pressed in to ensure the sleeve rotates freely in the bush. The tolerance of the wishbone means the two bushes will not always line up exactly when they are inserted from opposite ends. This means the sleeve will not rotate freely and they will tend to bind when in use if they are not fettled.<br />
[[Image:Polybush4.JPG]]<br />
<br />
I was not happy with my polyurethane bush installation for the front upper wishbones and I have subsequently made a modification by replacing the small diameter shims that are used on the top rear bushes with the large diameter shims used for the front top wishbone bush. I have found that the small shims penetrate into the polyurethane bushes when the car is driven, like this:-<br />
<br />
[[Image:Polybush2.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19c_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_Fitted.JPG|This photograph shows how the front upper rear wishbone bush had moved after the car was driven. Both rear shims had penetrated the bush which is now misaligned.<br />
Image:19d_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_showing_Both_Shims_Embedded.JPG|This photograph shows both rear shims embedded into the polyurethene bush.<br />
Image:19e_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_Showing_Embedded_Shims_Removed.JPG|This photograph shows both shims removed from the bush and you can see that the inner sleeve has been pushed forward.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
This is how I have subsequently fitted the shims on the upper front wishbones:-<br />
[[Image:Polybush5.JPG]]<br />
<br />
When the bushes have been fitted, the wishbones need to be re-attached to the car. The reassembly procedure is more or less the reverse of disassembly.<br />
<br />
It can be very difficult to get the castor shims back in on the upper front wishbone assembly. It is even more difficult if you are fitting nylatron bushes as you cannot compress the top hats of the bushes. You can superglue the shims together before re-assembly, but this does not work very well if you are re-using old shims because their faces will have become rusty. I fit the shims as closely as possible by tapping them in gently trying not to break the superglue then I use a tapered drift to align the centre holes so the wishbone bolt fits. Do not be tempted to use excessive force to drive the wishbone bolt in as this will result in the bolt thread becoming damaged. If you are re-fitting the small diameter shims you will find they are much harder to fit than the large diameter shims and if you use excessive force the small shims will distort and you will not be able to pass the wishbone bolt through them.<br />
<br />
'''Once again, because this is important.''' If you are fitting nylatron or polyurethane bushes you will not be able to refit the snubber washer without modifying it, so you will either need to remove the rubber from the faces of the shim or replace it with a standard large diameter shim. The snubber washer is not designed to be used with aftermarket bushes because the flat of the washer will not make proper contact with the sleeve of the wishbone. This will result in the sleeve not being clamped up tight.<br />
<br />
It is worth using new shims when replacing wishbone bushes.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19h_Snubber_Washer.JPG|Snubber washer.<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
If you are fitting nylatron or polyurethane bushes then you can torque tighten all of the wishbone bolts without having to fully re-build the assembly.<br />
<br />
If you are fitting OEM bushes then all of the components must be fitted loosely. The bolts cannot be torque tightened at this stage because the suspension needs to be loaded and sitting at normal ride height otherwise the bushes will try to rip themselves apart during use as they will be tightened at the wrong orientation.<br />
<br />
Lotus recommend smearing grease on the wishbone bolt shanks before re-assembly when fitting OEM bushes and do not get any grease on the bolt threads. This is not necessary when fitting nylatron or polyurethene bushes because the sleeves do not rotate around the bolt. Both the bolt and sleeves remain fixed and the bushes rotate around the sleeves.<br />
<br />
Step 19. Torque tighten the upper wishbone bolts to 45Nm after fitting polyurethane or nylatron bushes. Both front and rear are easily accessible.<br />
<br />
When fitting nylatron bushes you must ensure that when the bolts have been torque tightened each wishbone drops under its own weight. If you need to apply any force to lower the wishbone then the sleeves are too tight in the bushes and the wishbone will have to be removed and further reaming will be required to ensure the sleeves are not too tight in the bush. This is important because the handling of the car may be affected if the sleeves are too tight as the wishbones will have a tendancy to drag. Also there will be a tendancy for the bushes to rotate in the wishbone instead of the sleeves which will polish and start to wear out the wishbone. But more importantly, badly fitted nylatron bushes are dangerous because if the sleeves bind in the bushes the wishbone bolts can become loose because the nuts will try to unwind themselves when the suspension raises and lowers in use. If you see the bushes rotating in the wishbone then you must not continue assembing the suspension.<br />
<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:19_Torque_Upper_Wishbone.JPG|19a. Remember, you must loosely fit OEM bushes at this stage and assemble the suspension completely then load it to the normal ride height before torque tightening the wishbone bolts.<br />
Image:19b_Upper_Front_Wishbone_Bush_Fitted.JPG|19b. This photoraph is a close up of the upper front wishbone bush fitted with a polyurethene bush after it has been torque tightened.<br />
Image:19f_Upper_Rear_Wishbone_Bush_Fitted_With_Large_Diameter_Shims.JPG|19c. I have used large diameter shims for the upper rear wishbone and they are much easier to fit than the small diameter shims. Also they will not embed themselves in the polyurethene bush.<br />
Image:20a_Torque_Lower_Wishbone_1.JPG|20a. Refit the lower wishbone. The front nut and bolt are easily accessible. If you are working on your own you will find that it is impossible to torque tighten the lower rear wishbone bolt. To overcome this problem I cable tie a ring spanner to the lower wishbone so that I can torque tighten the bolt from inside the foot well without an assistant.<br />
Image:20b_Torque_Lower_Wishbone_2.JPG|20b. The rear lower wishbone bolt can be torque tightened to 45Nm from inside the footwell.<br />
Image:21_Replace_Passenger_Footrest.JPG|21. If you are working on the nearside you can replace the passenger foot rest.<br />
Image:22_Torque_Drop_Link.JPG|22. Torque tighten the drop link to 45NM.<br />
Image:23_Loosley_Fit_Damper_Assembly.JPG|23. You can loosely fit the damper at this stage. I find it easier to fit now rather than later because the hub carrier is not in the way. Ensure that you grease the top hat washers where they come into contact with the damper. The bolts cannot be torque tightened at this point because the suspension needs to be loaded and sitting at normal ride height otherwise the damper bushes will try to rip themselves apart during use as they will be tightened at the wrong orientation.<br />
Image:24_Fit_Hub_Assembly.JPG|24. The hub assembly can now be refitted. The suspension needs to be loaded by placing a jack under the hub carrier and jacked to normal ride height. Both upper and lower ball joints can be torque tightened to 55Nm although you will not be able to use a torque wrench on the lower ball joint nut if you only have a basic tool kit, in which case you will have to estimate the correct torque using a ring spanner.<br />
Image:25_Torque_Damper_Assembly.JPG|25. The damper can now be torque tightened to 45Nm and if you have fitted OEM wishbone bushes all of the wishbone bolts can be torque tightened to 45Nm at this stage.<br />
Image:26_Slacken_Off_Brake_Pad.JPG|26. Refit the brake disc. You may find that you will need to slacken off one of the brake pads if your disc has developed a lip. I use a clamp and an old steel rule on the face of the pad to spread the load.<br />
Image:27_Measure_Brake_Disc_Thickness.JPG|27. It is always a good idea to measure the thickness of your brake disc at regular intervals to ensure it is still within tolerance.<br />
Image:28_Torque_Brake_Caliper.JPG|28. Refit the brake caliper and torque tighten it to 45Nm.<br />
Image:29_Refit_Brake_Pipe_Clamp.JPG|29. Refit the brake pipe clamp.<br />
Image:30_Refit_Front_Undertray.JPG|30. Refit the front under tray unless you are about to start on the other side of the car.<br />
Image:31_Nip_Up_Road_Wheel_Bolts.JPG|31. Refit the road wheel and nip the wheel bolts/nuts up. Check to ensure there is no play in any of the suspension components by trying to rock the wheel from side to side by holding it at a quarter to three.<br />
Image:32_Torque_Road_Wheel_Bolts.JPG|32. Lower the car to the ground and torque up the road wheel bolts to 105Nm on an S2 or the wheel nuts to 80-85Nm on an S1. Press the brake pedal several times to get the pedal feel back.<br />
</gallery><br />
As this is major suspension work it is advisable to check and adjust the suspension geometry. See http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Geo_Setups<br />
<br />
The diagram below shows which way the OEM bushes should be inserted into the wishbones. Note that there are 3 different part numbers and they are the same for both S1 & S2.<br />
<gallery><br />
Image:Inserting_OEM_Bushes_into_Wishbones.JPG|<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
These part numbers have been superceded by the new part numbers shown below:-<br />
<br />
Revised wishbone bush part numbers<br />
<br />
* Front Suspension<br />
** Upper wishbone rear pivot bush A116C0035F<br />
** Lower wishbone/upper wishbone front pivot bushes A116C0068F<br />
* Rear Suspension<br />
** Lower wishbone front pivot short bushes A116C0067<br />
** Lower wishbone rear/upper wishbone bushes A116C0068F<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Suspension]]<br />
[[Category:DIY]]<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]<br />
[[Category:S2]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Wheel_Bolts&diff=7688Wheel Bolts2009-02-25T15:42:54Z<p>Black potato: /* Warning */</p>
<hr />
<div>===Wheel Bolts===<br />
<br />
<br />
===S1===<br />
<br />
M12 x 1.5 pitch thread<br />
<br />
Be careful as they have a conical seat not a taper.<br />
<br />
Wheel Nut Elise S1: A111G6001F as per parts manual<br />
<br />
<br />
80-85NM (S1)<br />
<br />
===S2===<br />
<br />
<br />
M12x1.5 bolt with a tapered seat. (eg. Vauxhall Corsa)<br />
<br />
The length should be 25-30mm.<br />
<br />
Standard Wheel Bolt Elise S2: B117G6000F <br />
<br />
105NM (S2) <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Warning ===<br />
<br />
Do not over torque the nuts '''they will shear''' invest in a torque wrench or you will end up paying out for a new set of wheel bolts, or maybe a new car!<br />
<br />
[[Image:brokenbolt.JPG|thumb|left]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:DIY]]<br />
[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]<br />
[[Category:S2]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=S1_Wheel_Options&diff=7667S1 Wheel Options2009-02-09T12:44:59Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus OEM Rimstock */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Lotus/OEM==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Please Add Your knowledge, Its Easy, Just Press [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title={{PAGENAMEE}}&action=edit EDIT]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Alloy wheel weight is very important to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight unsprung weight] of the car. <br />
<br />
Stuck on what PCD or Centrebore means, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing read here].<br />
<br />
If you want different wheels to those listed below, you need pcd converting wheel-spacers like [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=165&products_id=219 Hubcentric Wheel Adaptors.] as 4x100pcd is already relatively common.<br />
<br />
What you need is simple wheel spacers in 4x100pcd, centre bore 56.6 to make the offset a little more common. These spacers would fit Vauxhall Corsa, Astra F&G, Tigra, Vectra + OPEL Ascona and are therefore pretty easy to come by and quite cheap. [http://www.performancefx.net/wsvauxhall.htm example of cheap spacers]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Lotus AWI 5-Spoke ===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 5.5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 7.0J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 7.10kg<br />
| r_weight = 8.80kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 185/55R15 195/50R15<br />
| r_tyresize = 205/50ZR16 225/45ZR16<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:5spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 5 Spoke OEM Wheels]]<br />
| image2 = [[Image:5spok.jpg|thumb|S1 5 Spoke OEM Wheels]]<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G0004F<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G0005F<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus OZ 6-Spokes (111s, JPS, Type '49')===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 5.5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 7.5J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25<br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 6.95kg<br />
| r_weight = 9.40kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15<br />
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:6spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 6 spoke OEM]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels. <br />
111s are silver. JPS and Type '49' are gold<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G0013F (111s), A111G0029F (JPS, Type 49)<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G0012F (111s), A111G0031F (JPS, Type 49)<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus Rimstock 12-Spoke===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 5.5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 7.0J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 7.56kg<br />
| r_weight = 8.62kg<br />
| f_tyresize = ?<br />
| r_tyresize = ?<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:12spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 12 Spoke OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G6040F<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G6041F<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus Victory (Sport160)===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6.0J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8.0J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET10<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 8.32kg<br />
| r_weight = 10.0kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15<br />
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16<br />
| price = complete set GBP 599<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:silvervictories.jpg|thumb|S1 160 OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G6032S (Grey), A111G6030S (Silver)<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G6033S (Grey), A111G6031S (Silver)<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==S1 Exige==<br />
<br />
===Lotus OEM===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 7J x 16<br />
| r_size = 8.5J x 17<br />
| f_offset = ET7<br />
| r_offset = ET5<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25<br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = ~8.50kg<br />
| r_weight = 11.20kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 195/50 R16<br />
| r_tyresize = 225/45 R17<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:exw.jpg|thumb|OEM]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = <br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==340R==<br />
<br />
===Lotus OEM Technomagnesium (UK) ===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6JJ x 15<br />
| r_size = 8JJ x 16<br />
| f_offset = ?<br />
| r_offset = ?<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 4.77kg<br />
| r_weight = 5.82kg<br />
| f_tyresize = ?<br />
| r_tyresize = ?<br />
| price = 2000<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:MAG1.jpg|thumb|Technomagnesio only UK cars was offerd these as replacement for the rimstock ]]<br />
| image2 = [[Image:techmag.jpg|thumb|]]<br />
<br />
| notes = <br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus OEM Rimstock===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6J15<br />
| r_size = 7.5J16<br />
| f_offset = ?<br />
| r_offset = ?<br />
| f_pcd = ? <br />
| r_pcd = ?<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 6.5<br />
| r_weight = 8.5<br />
| f_tyresize = 195/50/15<br />
| r_tyresize = 225/45/16<br />
| price = Not sold retail<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:MAG2.jpg|thumb|Rimstock Alloy (outside uk std) replacement delivery wheels when magwheels where in production ]]<br />
<br />
| notes = <br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Aftermarket==<br />
<br />
[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===Speedline Corse Magnesium===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 5,5kg<br />
| r_weight = 7kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 185-195<br />
| r_tyresize = 225-245<br />
| price = 1220<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:MAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Dymag Magnesium===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8J x 16<br />
| f_offset = <br />
| r_offset = <br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = <br />
| r_weight = <br />
| f_tyresize = 185-195<br />
| r_tyresize = 225-245<br />
| price = 1880 complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:DYMAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===TMR Forged Alloy===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 7J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8J x 16<br />
| f_offset = +12<br />
| r_offset = +9<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 4,65kg<br />
| r_weight = 5,85kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 185-195<br />
| r_tyresize = 225-245<br />
| price = 1880 complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web = http://www.msar-safety.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=12<br />
| image = [[Image:TRM.jpg|thumb|Forged Alloy]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Eliseparts 12 Spoke Forged Alloy===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6,5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8J x 16<br />
| f_offset = <br />
| r_offset = <br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 5.00 Kg <br />
| r_weight = 6.52 Kg <br />
| f_tyresize = 185-195<br />
| r_tyresize = 225-245<br />
| price = 1700<br />
| web = http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_79&products_id=713<br />
| image = [[Image:EPW.jpg|thumb| 12 Spoke EP Forge Alloy]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=S1_headlight_repair_%26_replacement&diff=7496S1 headlight repair & replacement2008-11-03T14:38:00Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
1st park the car a known distance from a wall and mark where the lights fall on the wall so you can align them back up after...<br />
<br />
Next...<br />
<br />
Remove wheel, hold back or remove liner...<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/DSC00002.JPG <br />
<br />
Remove light and tie cables out of the way.<br />
Remove that rusty thing, clean up inside of clam shell.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/DSC00001.JPG <br />
<br />
Bond in new bracket being carefull not to leave any adhesive showing, you may need to remove head light covers to help with this, then leave for a day to cure.<br />
<br />
You may also want to replace the units if they are rusty and or put in some better bulbs<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/DSC00003.JPG</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Over_100k&diff=7154Over 100k2008-06-05T10:44:18Z<p>Black potato: /* The Over 100,000 Miles Club */</p>
<hr />
<div>===The Over 100,000 Miles Club===<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Name !! Car<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Edw Edw] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Arno Arno] <br />
|| S2<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/reAnimate reAnimate] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/oneslip Oneslip]<br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/BrianDrought BrianDrought] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Liam Liam] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/GaryDVO GaryDVO] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tigga! Tigga!] <br />
|| S2<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Onch Onch] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hugh.N Hugh.N] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Steve69 Steve69] <br />
|| S1<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Black_potato Black_potato] <br />
|| S1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===The Over 200,000 Miles Club===<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
! Name !! Car<br />
|-<br />
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stu Stu] <br />
|| S1<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Misc]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Idle_Air_Control_Valve&diff=6561Idle Air Control Valve2008-01-10T11:15:43Z<p>Black potato: /* "Resetting" the iacv */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]<br />
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input. <br />
<br />
When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc) <br />
<br />
The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle. <br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)<br />
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)<br />
<br />
<br />
If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.<br />
<br />
==Fitting and removal==<br />
===S1===<br />
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner. <br />
=="Resetting" the iacv==<br />
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.<br />
<br />
This is detailed in section EMN page 14 of the service manual.<br />
<br />
==Location==<br />
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical]]<br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]<br />
[[Category:S2]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Idle_Air_Control_Valve&diff=6560Idle Air Control Valve2008-01-10T11:14:28Z<p>Black potato: /* "Resetting" the iacv */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]<br />
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input. <br />
<br />
When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc) <br />
<br />
The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle. <br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)<br />
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)<br />
<br />
<br />
If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.<br />
<br />
==Fitting and removal==<br />
===S1===<br />
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner. <br />
=="Resetting" the iacv==<br />
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with the Lotus check tool.<br />
<br />
==Location==<br />
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical]]<br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]<br />
[[Category:S2]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Idle_Air_Control_Valve&diff=6559Idle Air Control Valve2008-01-10T11:14:15Z<p>Black potato: /* "Resetting" the iacv */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]<br />
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit ([[ECU]], a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input. <br />
<br />
When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc) <br />
<br />
The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the drivability characteristics of the vehicle. <br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)<br />
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)<br />
<br />
<br />
If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the [[ECU]] temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.<br />
<br />
==Fitting and removal==<br />
===S1===<br />
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner. <br />
=="Resetting" the iacv==<br />
The IAC Valve postition maybe reset by switching the ignition on disabling the imobiliser and pressing the throttle fully and slowly 5 times, it may also be reset with teh Lotus check tool.<br />
<br />
==Location==<br />
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131&products_id=460<br />
<br />
[[Category:Electrical]]<br />
[[Category:Engine]]<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]<br />
[[Category:S2]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=S1_Wheel_Options&diff=6447S1 Wheel Options2007-11-08T23:58:20Z<p>Black potato: /* 304R */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Lotus/OEM==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Please Add Your knowledge, Its Easy, Just Press [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title={{PAGENAMEE}}&action=edit EDIT]'''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Alloy wheel weight is very important to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight unsprung weight] of the car. <br />
<br />
Stuck on what PCD or Centrebore means, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing read here].<br />
<br />
If you want different wheels to those listed below, you need pcd converting wheel-spacers like [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=165&products_id=219 Hubcentric Wheel Adaptors.] as 4x100pcd is already relatively common.<br />
<br />
What you need is simple wheel spacers in 4x100pcd, centre bore 56.6 to make the offset a little more common. These spacers would fit Vauxhall Corsa, Astra F&G, Tigra, Vectra + OPEL Ascona and are therefore pretty easy to come by and quite cheap. [http://www.performancefx.net/wsvauxhall.htm example of cheap spacers]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
===Lotus AWI 5-Spoke ===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 5.5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 7.0J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET16<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 7.10kg<br />
| r_weight = 8.80kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 185/55R15 195/50R15<br />
| r_tyresize = 205/50ZR16 225/45ZR16<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:5spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 5 Spoke OEM Wheels]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G0004F<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G0005F<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus OZ 6-Spokes (111s, JPS, Type '49')===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 5.5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 7.5J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET16<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25<br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 6.95kg<br />
| r_weight = 9.40kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15<br />
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:|thumb|S1 OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels. <br />
111s are black. JPS and Type '49' are gold<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G0013F (111s), A111G0029F (JPS, Type 49)<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G0012F (111s), A111G0031F (JPS, Type 49)<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus Rimstock 12-Spoke===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 5.5J x 15<br />
| r_size = 7.0J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 7.56kg<br />
| r_weight = 8.62kg<br />
| f_tyresize = ?<br />
| r_tyresize = ?<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:12spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 12 Spoke OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G6040F<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G6041F<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Lotus Victory (Sport160)===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6.0J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8.0J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET10<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 8.32kg<br />
| r_weight = 10.0kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15<br />
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16<br />
| price = complete set GBP 599<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:silvervictories.jpg|thumb|S1 160 OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front: A111G6032S (Grey), A111G6030S (Silver)<br />
<br />
Rear: A111G6033S (Grey), A111G6031S (Silver)<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==S1 Exige==<br />
<br />
===Lotus OEM===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = ?<br />
| r_size = ?<br />
| f_offset = ?<br />
| r_offset = ?<br />
| f_pcd = ?<br />
| r_pcd = ? <br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = ?<br />
| r_weight = ?<br />
| f_tyresize = ?<br />
| r_tyresize = ?<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:|thumb|S1 OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = <br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==340R==<br />
<br />
===Lotus OEM ===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = ?<br />
| r_size = ?<br />
| f_offset = ?<br />
| r_offset = ?<br />
| f_pcd = ? <br />
| r_pcd = ?<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = ?<br />
| r_weight = ?<br />
| f_tyresize = ?<br />
| r_tyresize = ?<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:|thumb|S1 OEM Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = <br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
==Aftermarket==<br />
<br />
[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]<br />
<br />
<br />
===Speedline Corse Magnesium===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8J x 16<br />
| f_offset = ET14<br />
| r_offset = ET10<br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = 5,5kg<br />
| r_weight = 7kg<br />
| f_tyresize = 185-195<br />
| r_tyresize = 225-245<br />
| price = complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:MAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
===Dymag Magnesium===<br />
{{ Infobox_Wheels |<br />
| f_size = 6J x 15<br />
| r_size = 8J x 16<br />
| f_offset = <br />
| r_offset = <br />
| f_pcd = 95.25 <br />
| r_pcd = 95.25<br />
| f_cbore = ?<br />
| r_cbore = ?<br />
| f_weight = <br />
| r_weight = <br />
| f_tyresize = 185-195<br />
| r_tyresize = 225-245<br />
| price = 1880 complete set inc VAT ???<br />
| web =<br />
| image = [[Image:DYMAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]<br />
| image2 =<br />
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.<br />
Lotus Part Numbers:<br />
<br />
Front:?<br />
<br />
Rear:?<br />
}}<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]<br />
[[Category:S1]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Children&diff=6190Children2007-08-07T13:57:29Z<p>Black potato: /* Children in a Lotus */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Category:Lotus Elise]] [[Category:S1]] [[Category:S2]] [[Category:Lotus Europa]] [[Category: Safety]]<br />
==== Children in a Lotus ====<br />
<br />
Having a kid does not necessary mean the end of Lotus ownership. Many owners have kids and regularly take them out in the Lotus. <br />
<br />
There are many makes of seats for all ages that fit the Elise, although none of the factory fitted seats have IsoFix fitments so child seats must be belt fitted. <br />
<br />
There's a vast choice of child seats available and also a lot of variations in the Elise seat design/padding over the years the car has been manufactured - so try before you buy.<br />
<br />
==== Child Seat Safety Law ====<br />
Whatever you buy make sure it complies with the up-to-date Child Seat Safety Law<br />
http://www.thinkroadsafety.gov.uk/campaigns/childcarseats/childcarseats.htm<br />
<br />
<br />
The following seats have been found to fit various Elise/Exige seats and provide a good starting point for the test fitting trip to Halfords or Mothercare.<br />
<br />
==== Baby Seats - Group 0 (-9 months) ====<br />
*Maxicosi Cabrio<br />
*Brittax rockatot<br />
<br />
==== Child Seats Group 1 (9 months+) ====<br />
*Maxicosi Priory<br />
*Britax Duo<br />
<br />
==== Child Booster Seats ====<br />
*Please edit if you have one<br />
<br />
==== Push Chair/Buggies ====<br />
You can even get a push chair to fit on the boot of the Elise!<br />
The Quinny Zapp is used by a few owners. and it can also take the Maxicosi Cabrio seat.<br />
<br />
[[Image:QuinnyIn.JPG]][[Image:QuinnyOut.JPG]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5078Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-09T16:39:21Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front towing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5026Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T18:56:15Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5025Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T18:54:39Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5024Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T18:54:00Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5023Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:56:37Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5022Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:55:52Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5021Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:54:57Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
<br />
On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5020Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:53:15Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5019Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:52:23Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5018Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:51:41Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5017Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:42:56Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5016Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:39:59Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''<br />
*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
*Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car***<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5015Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:39:15Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
*** Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''***Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
***Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car***<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5014Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:38:26Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
** Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''***Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
***Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car***<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5013Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:36:34Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
** Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''***Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5012Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:34:21Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''***Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye<br />
<br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5011Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:31:35Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''***Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw<br />
Then file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye <br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5010Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:29:26Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
''***Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials***''<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''<br />
<br />
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/kit_small.JPG<br />
<br />
<br />
Assembly is pretty easy:<br />
<br />
Cut 245mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivilent<br />
Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw<br />
Then file off any rough ends off the rod<br />
<br />
Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye <br />
Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your whole.<br />
<br />
Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependednt on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.<br />
<br />
Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.<br />
<br />
The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.<br />
on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.<br />
<br />
Next screw screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.<br />
<br />
When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.<br />
<br />
However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5009Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:11:56Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw, Pliers or mole grips, Metal File, Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal, 13mm spanner, Ruler''''''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5008Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:10:53Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod'''<br />
'''10x 8mm nyloc nuts'''<br />
'''10x 8mm capped nuts'''<br />
'''Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw<br />
'''Pliers or mole grips'''<br />
'''Metal File'''<br />
'''Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal'''<br />
'''13mm spanner'''<br />
'''Ruler''''''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Timing_Strut_for_Sprinting&diff=5007Timing Strut for Sprinting2007-03-04T15:09:13Z<p>Black potato: Timing Strut for Sprinting</p>
<hr />
<div>For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut be used to ensure the most accurate timing. <br />
<br />
The specific dimentions as per the 2006 MSA handbook has the specifics that should be refered to but in essance the following covers the basics.<br />
<br />
Height of Strut 245mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.<br />
<br />
To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:<br />
<br />
'''1.5m of Aluminum piece of cornering for around £4 from B&Q<br />
<br />
2ft of 8mm threaded rod<br />
10x 8mm nyloc nuts<br />
10x 8mm capped nuts<br />
Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''<br />
<br />
I collated a small tool kit of the following:<br />
<br />
'''Hack Saw<br />
Pliers<br />
File<br />
Drill with 8mm bit suitable for drilling metal<br />
13mm spanner<br />
Ruler'''</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Geo_Setups&diff=4774Geo Setups2007-02-05T19:39:37Z<p>Black potato: /* Setting your own geo */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Some standard Geo settings ==<br />
<br />
<table x:str border=0 cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 width=655 style='border-collapse:<br />
collapse;table-layout:fixed;width:493pt'><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl24 width=158 style='height:12.75pt;width:119pt'>Geometry</td><br />
<td class=xl25 width=122 style='width:92pt'>Standard S1 &amp; S2</td><br />
<td class=xl25 width=125 style='width:94pt'>S2 135R</td><br />
<td class=xl25 width=125 style='width:94pt'>340R Road</td><br />
<td class=xl25 width=125 style='width:94pt'>340R Track</td><br />
<td class=xl25 width=125 style='width:94pt'>Exige S1</td><br />
<td class=xl25 width=125 style='width:94pt'>Msport</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Ride Height F/R</td><br />
<td class=xl27>130/130mm</td><br />
<td class=xl27>120/120mm</td><br />
<td class=xl27>100/110mm</td><br />
<td class=xl27>100/110mm</td><br />
<td class=xl27>112/122mm</td><br />
<td class=xl27>100/110mm</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Steering axis inclination</td><br />
<td class=xl27>12°</td><br />
<td class=xl27>12°</td><br />
<td class=xl27>12°</td><br />
<td class=xl27>12°</td><br />
<td class=x127>12°</td><br />
<td class=x127>12°</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Front Castor</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'+3.8°">+3.8°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'+3.7°">+3.7°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'+3.8°">+3.8°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'+3.8°">+3.8°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'+3.8°">+3.8°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'+3.8°">+3.8°</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Front Camber</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-0.1°">-0.1°</td><br />
<td class=xl27>0°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="-0.5° "><span lang=EN-GB>-0.5°<span<br />
style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span></td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-1.8° "><span lang=EN-GB>-1.8°<span<br />
style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span></td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-0.5°">-0.5°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'0.3°">-0.3°</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Front alignment/toe</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'0.2mm OUT Overall">0.2mm OUT Overall</td><br />
<td class=xl27>0 mm</td><br />
<td class=xl27>0.2mm OUT overall</td><br />
<td class=xl27>0.5mm OUT overall</td><br />
<td class=xl27>0.1mm OUT overall</td><br />
<td class=xl27>0.2mm OUT overall</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Rear Camber</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-1.8°">-1.8°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-1.8°">-1.8°</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-2.0° "><span lang=EN-GB>-2.0°<span<br />
style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span></td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-2.7° "><span lang=EN-GB>-2.7°<span<br />
style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span></td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-2.4° "><span lang=EN-GB>-2.4°<span<br />
style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span></td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'-2.4° "><span lang=EN-GB>-2.0°<span<br />
style='mso-spacerun:yes'> </span></span></td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Rear alignment/toe</td><br />
<td class=xl27 x:str="'1.2mm IN Overall">1.2mm IN each side</td><br />
<td class=xl27>1.2mm IN each side</td><br />
<td class=xl27>1.5mm IN each side</td><br />
<td class=xl27>2.5mm IN each side</td><br />
<td class=xl27>1.2mm IN each side</td><br />
<td class=xl27>1.2mm IN each side</td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=17 style='height:12.75pt'><br />
<td height=17 class=xl26 style='height:12.75pt'>Bump Steer</td><br />
<td class=xl27></td><br />
<td class=xl27></td><br />
<td class=xl27>2.0° to 2.5° toe in</td><br />
<td class=xl28></td><br />
<td class=xl27></td><br />
</tr><br />
<tr height=0 style='display:none'><br />
<td width=158 style='width:119pt'></td><br />
<td width=122 style='width:92pt'></td><br />
<td width=125 style='width:94pt'></td><br />
<td width=125 style='width:94pt'></td><br />
<td width=125 style='width:94pt'></td><br />
</tr><br />
</table><br />
<br />
<br />
These settings is to be used when car is loaded with 2x 75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.Converting from mm to degrees: 1. Multiply rim diameter in inches by 25.4 to get rim diameter in mm. 2. Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference. 3. Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree. 4. Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees<br />
<br />
== Geo setting X does Y ==<br />
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;<br />
<br />
Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.<br />
<br />
Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.<br />
<br />
Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.<br />
<br />
Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.<br />
<br />
== Setting your own geo ==<br />
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings.<br />
<br />
1. To baseline your current setup http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15<br />
<br />
2. If you dont have the S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections you really should get them as this is only a small part.<br />
<br />
3. Set the front castor by "shuffeling washers" on the top wishbone pivots (caster is not actually that important).<br />
<br />
4. Set the front and rear camber by adding & removing shims; removing a 1mm shim plate will alter camber by approximately -0.25° at the front and -0.30° at the rear (see above for camber effects).<br />
<br />
5. You could set the toe yourself, but since a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm its a damned delicate affair without a real time readout (toe settings are crtical for handling).<br />
<br />
6. Back to the alignment centre to check your config for another £15 and set your front and rear toe for another £30. You can now alter the camber without materially affecting toe.<br />
<br />
<br />
MEMO: Someone else can explain how to create a DIY geo rig and set bump steer !<br />
<br />
==See Also==<br />
<br />
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Category:Suspension]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Remove_the_rear_undertray&diff=3320Remove the rear undertray2006-08-29T22:52:44Z<p>Black potato: /* Removing The Rear Undertray On a S2 */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Removing The Rear Undertray On a S2==<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Tools you will need are:<br />
<br />
5mm Allen Key<br />
<br />
8mm Socket <br />
<br />
Wrench<br />
<br />
<br />
Recommended Removal order of the rear under tray bolts is:<br />
<br />
1. Remove all the 'RED' doted bolts first, they are 8MM.<br />
<br />
2. Remove the 'GREEN' dotted bolt, also 8MM.<br />
<br />
3. Finally remove the 'BLUE' doted Allen bolts.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:boltorder.JPG|thumb|left|Bolt removal order]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
[[Image:TRAY1.JPG|thumb|left|8MM Bolt removal, this is one of 12 ]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
[[Image:TRAY2.JPG|thumb|left|All 8MM Bolts removed ]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
[[Image:TRAY3.JPG|thumb|left|one of the two back allen 5MM bolts]]<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
[[Image:TRAY4.JPG|thumb|left|Removing of the 5MM allen bolts]]<br />
{{clr}}</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2697Brake discs2006-08-17T18:16:59Z<p>Black potato: /* MMC */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Lotus OEM Fitment==<br />
===S1 Elise===<br />
====MMC====<br />
The earliest Elises were fitted with a very lightweight Metal Matrix discs, these discs had an extremely long life expectancy with a very low weight.<br />
<br />
The down side of the discs was their fragility at high temprature and poor ability to shed water when driving in rain, often providing ''interesting'' moments for the driver if used in anger on a rainy day.<br />
<br />
These discs where discontinued due to cost when problems where incured with the original supplier.<br />
<br />
====Standard cast iron====<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|left|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]<br />
These discs followed the MMC disc as the standard brake disk for the S1 Elise.<br />
<br />
Standard discs (Vented)<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
====Cross drilled====<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|left|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]<br />
'''Lotus Motorsport''' discs as fitted to the 111s, Sport 160 and other models (Cross drilled and Vented).<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
===S1 Exige, 340R===<br />
The Lotus Series 1 Exige, and 340R, was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above. <br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
===S2 Elise===<br />
288mm Vented Discs<br />
<br />
The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement. <br />
<br />
The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly. <br />
Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the callipers.<br />
<br />
===Vaxuall VX200===<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Elise Upgrade Options==<br />
Lotus do a Offical upgrade kit for the exige S2<br />
link / price / picture / information to follow<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]<br />
<br />
==Other sources of information==<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_pad_bedding_in_procedure&diff=2696Brake pad bedding in procedure2006-08-17T18:15:09Z<p>Black potato: </p>
<hr />
<div><br />
Bedding in procedure can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and can effect both Disk and Pad life and effectiveness.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
For Pagid Pads see this Link <br />
[http://www.braketechnology.com/brakepadbedding.html Brake Pad Bedding Procedure] on the Pagid website.<br />
<br />
<br />
For Standard Lotus OEM items the following recommendations came from Nick Adams (Lotus develloping engineer)<br />
<br />
Hi Ross, Alastair and Dave recommend the following procedure for bedding Elise brakes in:<br />
<br />
With new pads and discs, or just new pads fitted run the car around for 10/20 miles using the brakes gently as normal to bed the two surfaces together. Once this has been done, check the surfaces of the discs and make sure here are no signs of any scoring or damage. Assuming all looks well take the car to an appropriate piece of quiet and straight, well sighted road and perform half a dozen medium pressure stops from 50 mph down to 20 mph to warm the brakes up. Avoid more than a minute between each stop so that the temperatures do not get a chance to deteriorate too much. Once the brakes are warm and the coast is clear, perform 2 or 3 hard stops from 70mph (where local laws allow!) to 20 mph, braking as hard as you can without locking up. Do not come to a halt between each stop, do them as fast as you can to get the brakes really hot. On the third stop come to a halt and keeping your foot on the brake press the brake pedal down as hard as you can and hold it there for at least a couple of minutes, don't apply the handbrake. This hurts if you are doing it right! This will bed the pistons, shims and pads together and will compress the pad material, giving a hard and repeatable pedal. Once the 2 minutes have passed, release the pedal and go for a short drive, using the brakes as normal to let everything return to normal temperatures. The brakes are now fully bedded in and ready for use in anger. Recompressing the pads once every few thousand miles to the above procedure will help keep the pedal firm, especially if you don't normally use the brakes hard.<br />
<br />
Cheers, Nick<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_hoses&diff=2695Brake hoses2006-08-17T18:10:26Z<p>Black potato: /* Aftermarket Products */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Ss braided brake hoses LRG.jpg|thumb|left|Stainless Steel brake hoses]]<br />
'''Brake hoses''' are used to transfer [[brake fluid]] to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disc_brake brake caliper] and force the [[brake pads]] onto the [[brake discs]]. They should not be confused with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_lining brake lining] even though they are somethimes refered to as '''brake lines'''.<br />
<br />
On an Elise the standard brake hoses are made from rubber which is fine up to a point, however these hoses tend to expand under the hydraulic pressure from the [[brake system]], this results in the effort from your foot expanding the hose instead of stopping the car. Primarily this reduces brake feel.<br />
<br />
Upgrading these (usually to stainless steel braided teflon hoses) results in a firmer, more positive brake pedal with less pedal travel. There are four brake hoses on the Elise and the [[Changing brake hoses|procedure for changing]] them is relatively involved.<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
==Aftermarket Products==<br />
Stainless Steal Goodridge Brake hose Kit<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A340J6000S<br />
<br />
Will fit <br />
<br />
Elise S1 and S2<br />
<br />
Exige S1 and S2<br />
<br />
340R<br />
<br />
Will NOT fit USA spec<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.goodridge.net/uk/index.htm Goodridge]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2662Brake discs2006-08-17T15:36:19Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
MMC Disks<br />
<br />
The Earliest Elises were fitted with a very lightweight magnesium alloy disk, these disks had an extreamly long life expectancy with a very low weight.<br />
The down side of the disks was their fragility at high temprature and poor ability to shed water when driving in rain often providing "interesting" moments for the driver if used in anger on a rainy day.<br />
<br />
These disks where discontinued due to cost when problems where incured with the origional supplier.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Standard cast iron brake disks <br />
<br />
These disks followed the MMC disk as the standard Brake disk for the Series 1 Elise<br />
Standard discs (Vented)<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]<br />
<br />
"Lotus Motorsport" discs as fitted to the 111s, Sport 160 and other models (Cross drilled and Vented).<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus Series 1 Exige was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above. <br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs<br />
<br />
<br />
The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement. <br />
<br />
The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly. <br />
Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the callipers.<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
Lotus do a Offical upgrade kit for the exige S2<br />
link / price / picture / information to follow<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2661Brake discs2006-08-17T15:36:07Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
MMC Disks<br />
<br />
The Earliest Elises were fitted with a very lightweight magnesium alloy disk, these disks had an extreamly long life expectancy with a very low weight.<br />
The down side of the disks was their fragility at high temprature and poor ability to shed water when driving in rain often providing "interesting" moments for the driver if used in anger on a rainy day.<br />
<br />
These disks where discontinued due to cost when problems where incured with the origional supplier.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Standard cast iron brake disks <br />
These disks followed the MMC disk as the standard Brake disk for the Series 1 Elise<br />
Standard discs (Vented)<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]<br />
<br />
"Lotus Motorsport" discs as fitted to the 111s, Sport 160 and other models (Cross drilled and Vented).<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus Series 1 Exige was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above. <br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs<br />
<br />
<br />
The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement. <br />
<br />
The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly. <br />
Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the callipers.<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
Lotus do a Offical upgrade kit for the exige S2<br />
link / price / picture / information to follow<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2660Brake discs2006-08-17T15:34:19Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
MMC Disks<br />
<br />
The Earliest Elises were fitted with a very lightweight magnesium alloy disk, these disks had an extreamly long life expectancy with a very low weight.<br />
The down side of the disks was their fragility at high temprature and poor ability to shed water when driving in rain often providing "interesting" moments for the driver if used in anger on a rainy day.<br />
<br />
These disks where discontinued due to cost when problems where incured with the origional supplier.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
standard cast iron brake disks<br />
Standard discs (Vented)<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]<br />
<br />
"Lotus Motorsport" discs as fitted to the 111s (Cross drilled and Vented).<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus Series 1 Exige was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above. <br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs<br />
<br />
<br />
The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement. <br />
<br />
The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly. <br />
Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the callipers.<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
Lotus do a Offical upgrade kit for the exige S2<br />
link / price / picture / information to follow<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2659Brake discs2006-08-17T15:34:01Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
MMC Disks<br />
<br />
The Earliest Elises were fitted with a very lightweight magnesium alloy disk, these disks had an extreamly long life expectancy with a very low weight.<br />
The down side of the disks was their fragility at high temprature and poor ability to shed water when driving in rain often providing "interesting" moments for the driver if used in anger on a rainy day.<br />
<br />
These disks where discontinued due to cost when problems where incured with the origional supplier.<br />
<br />
standard cast iron brake disks<br />
Standard discs (Vented)<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]<br />
<br />
"Lotus Motorsport" discs as fitted to the 111s (Cross drilled and Vented).<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus Series 1 Exige was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above. <br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs<br />
<br />
<br />
The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement. <br />
<br />
The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly. <br />
Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the callipers.<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
Lotus do a Offical upgrade kit for the exige S2<br />
link / price / picture / information to follow<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2658Brake discs2006-08-17T15:29:52Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus Exige S1 Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
standard cast iron brake disks<br />
Standard discs (Vented)<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]<br />
<br />
"Lotus Motorsport" discs as fitted to the 111s (Cross drilled and Vented).<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus Series 1 Exige was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above. <br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs<br />
<br />
<br />
The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement. <br />
<br />
The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly. <br />
Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the callipers.<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Exige S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
<br />
288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
Lotus do a Offical upgrade kit for the exige S2<br />
link / price / picture / information to follow<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[[Category:Brakes]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2622Brake discs2006-08-17T11:28:25Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus 340R Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm ventilated disks<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_discs&diff=2621Brake discs2006-08-17T11:27:43Z<p>Black potato: /* Lotus 340R Disk Brakes */</p>
<hr />
<div>=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=<br />
<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F<br />
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Lotus Part Number:A111J0128F<br />
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG]]<br />
<br />
==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
288mm ventilated disks<br />
<br />
==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions.<br />
<br />
==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==<br />
<br />
=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=<br />
<br />
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]<br />
<br />
=Other sources of information=<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Oil_and_filter_change&diff=2525Oil and filter change2006-08-15T15:08:54Z<p>Black potato: /* Procedure */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{timetools infobox |<br />
time = 20-30 mins|<br />
tools = 14mm spanner, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.<br />
<br />
==Procedure==<br />
# Warm engine up<br />
# Raise rear of car.<sup>1</sup><br />
# [[undertray|Remove middle undertray]].<br />
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.<br />
# Remove sump plug and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.<br />
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.<br />
# Remove oil filter.<br />
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on.<br />
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will very if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.<br />
# Start engine (1st checking the car is in neutral), don't rev and observe oil light going out. Have a nose underneath for a possible leak at the filter. Tighten if necessary.<br />
# Turn engine off.<br />
# [[undertray|Replace undertray]]<br />
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
<sup>1</sup>Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.<br />
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Oil_and_filter_change&diff=2524Oil and filter change2006-08-15T15:06:58Z<p>Black potato: /* Procedure */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{timetools infobox |<br />
time = 20-30 mins|<br />
tools = 14mm spanner, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.<br />
<br />
==Procedure==<br />
# Warm engine up<br />
# Raise rear of car.<sup>1</sup><br />
# [[undertray|Remove middle undertray]].<br />
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.<br />
# Remove sump plug and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.<br />
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.<br />
# Remove oil filter.<br />
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on.<br />
# Pour 4 litres of whatever oil in the engine.<br />
# Start engine (1st checking the car is in neutral), don't rev and observe oil light going out. Have a nose underneath for a possible leak at the filter. Tighten if necessary.<br />
# Turn engine off.<br />
# [[undertray|Replace undertray]]<br />
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
<sup>1</sup>Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.<br />
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Oil_and_filter_change&diff=2523Oil and filter change2006-08-15T15:05:42Z<p>Black potato: /* Notes */</p>
<hr />
<div>{{timetools infobox |<br />
time = 20-30 mins|<br />
tools = 14mm spanner, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|<br />
}}<br />
<br />
Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.<br />
<br />
==Procedure==<br />
# Warm engine up<br />
# Raise rear of car.<sup>1</sup><br />
# [[undertray|Remove middle undertray]].<br />
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.<br />
# Remove sump plug and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.<br />
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.<br />
# Remove oil filter.<br />
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on.<br />
# Pour 4 litres of whatever oil in the engine.<br />
# Start engine, don't rev and observe oil light going out. Have a nose underneath for a possible leak at the filter. Tighten if necessary.<br />
# Turn engine off.<br />
# [[undertray|Replace undertray]]<br />
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.<br />
<br />
==Notes==<br />
<br />
<sup>1</sup>Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.<br />
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=CAT_replacement_pipe&diff=2266CAT replacement pipe2006-08-10T12:29:04Z<p>Black potato: /* 111S & VVC Engine */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Janspeed-S2-Catalyst-Replac LRG.jpg|thumb|S2 CRP|left]]<br />
A Cat Replacement Pipe, or CRP, is a device used to replace the [[Catalytic converter]] on an internal combustion engine. Somethimes refered to as a de-cat pipe or decat or straight catpipe, it's nothing more than a straight through piece of tubing!<br />
<br />
Alternatives to this are a [[SCRP]] or [[Sports CAT]].<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
==Noise==<br />
Large increase in noise, pops & bangs on overrun.<br />
<br />
Annoys the neighbours!<br />
<br />
==Performance==<br />
About a 3 BHP gain on the non-VVC engine.<br />
<br />
==MOT & Legality & Insurance==<br />
It is illegal to use your car on the road without a CAT and not just because of the emissons. This may cause you a problem in the event of an insurance claim. The procedure to [[How to change a CAT|change your CRP]] is quite simple.<br />
<br />
== 111S & VVC Engine==<br />
<br />
All tuning is a case of balance and this is still the case with exhaust systems. Some engines require some back pressure and the system may have been tuned with it in mind so a Motor sport version maybe more favourable than removing it completely as seems to be the case on the VVC engine.<br />
<br />
Some further reading and testing on similar engine configurations can be found on this MGF owners site.<br />
<br />
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/exhaust/catalysts.htm<br />
<br />
[[Category:Exhaust]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=CAT_replacement_pipe&diff=2265CAT replacement pipe2006-08-10T12:28:19Z<p>Black potato: /* 111S & VVC Engine */</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Image:Janspeed-S2-Catalyst-Replac LRG.jpg|thumb|S2 CRP|left]]<br />
A Cat Replacement Pipe, or CRP, is a device used to replace the [[Catalytic converter]] on an internal combustion engine. Somethimes refered to as a de-cat pipe or decat or straight catpipe, it's nothing more than a straight through piece of tubing!<br />
<br />
Alternatives to this are a [[SCRP]] or [[Sports CAT]].<br />
{{clr}}<br />
<br />
==Noise==<br />
Large increase in noise, pops & bangs on overrun.<br />
<br />
Annoys the neighbours!<br />
<br />
==Performance==<br />
About a 3 BHP gain on the non-VVC engine.<br />
<br />
==MOT & Legality & Insurance==<br />
It is illegal to use your car on the road without a CAT and not just because of the emissons. This may cause you a problem in the event of an insurance claim. The procedure to [[How to change a CAT|change your CRP]] is quite simple.<br />
<br />
== 111S & VVC Engine==<br />
<br />
All tuning is a case of balance and this is still the case with exhaust systems. Some engines require some back pressure and the system may have been tuned with it in mind so a Motor sport version maybe more favourable than removing it completely.<br />
<br />
Some further reading and testing on similar engine configurations can be found on this MGF owners site.<br />
<br />
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/exhaust/catalysts.htm<br />
<br />
[[Category:Exhaust]]</div>Black potatohttps://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Brake_pads&diff=1987Brake pads2006-08-08T12:14:57Z<p>Black potato: /* RS 4-2 Blue */</p>
<hr />
<div>'''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM]''' fitment for the Elise is as follows:-<br />
<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|-<br />
|S1 MMC||?<br />
|-<br />
|S1 non-MMC||?<br />
|-<br />
|S2 K Series||Brembo?<br />
|-<br />
|S2 Toyota||?<br />
|}<br />
<br />
List of brake pad manufacturers with descriptions and real world experiences from SELOC members.<br />
<br />
==EBC "Greenstuff"==<br />
A commonly used budget pad, OK for normal road use but don't cope to well when pushed.<br />
<br />
Fine as a replacement for OEM<br />
<br />
==Ferodo==<br />
=== DS2500===<br />
<br />
==Mintex==<br />
===1144===<br />
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use.<br />
<br />
==Pagid==<br />
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]<br />
<br />
[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]<br />
<br />
===RS 4-2 Blue===<br />
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).<br />
* Work well from cold.<br />
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.<br />
* less prone to squeel than RS14's<br />
<br />
Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage.<br />
<br />
===RS 14 Black===<br />
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F). <br />
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temprature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.<br />
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.<br />
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.<br />
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car.<br />
<br />
===RS 15 Grey===<br />
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.<br />
<br />
==SBS==<br />
<br />
==OMP==<br />
<br />
===OT/7951===<br />
Road&Track Front pads<br />
<br />
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en<br />
<br />
===OT/7954===<br />
Road&Track Rear pads<br />
<br />
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en<br />
<br />
===OT/6951===<br />
Competition Front pads<br />
<br />
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en<br />
<br />
===OT/6952===<br />
Competition Rear pads<br />
<br />
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en</div>Black potato