TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Cleaning products

2008-07-24T11:20:26Z

Dirty Den: Added some ideas and metal work category

===What Cleaning products?===

Here is a quick 'run down' on what products to use when cleaning your Elise.

Note: cleaning your car is up to you, so use what ever products you prefer. This is just a shortlist of well-regarded products that are considered to be among the best.

1 is best / recommended but obviously some items are not easily available at short notice etc so you might want to sacrifice the last ounce of performance for something further down the list thats available on the High Street.

'''Shampoo'''

'''1.''' Chemical Guys Maxi Suds 2

'''2.''' Meguiars Gold Class car shampoo

'''3.''' Meguiars NXT Generation car wash

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Polish'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Glaze'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Wax / Sealant'''

'''1.''' Chemical Guys 50/50 wax

'''2.''' Chemical Guys Factory Sealant

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Interior Ali'''

'''1.''' Meguiars All Purpose Cleaner (a weak mix solution)

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Leather'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Plastic fins & other black trim'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Tyres'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Alloy Wheels'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Scratch removal'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Metal work'''

'''1.'''Enter

'''2.'''Enter

'''3.'''Enter

'''4.'''Enter

'''5.'''Enter

'''Accessories'''

recommeded foam lances, wash mitts, applicator pads, drying towels, polishing cloths, clays & lubes etc

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Engine Control Unit

2007-09-11T13:21:54Z

Dirty Den: Added section for ECU mapping & added JKM Performance

== K Series Elises ==
[[image:euro1.JPG|thumb|left|EFi Technology EURO1 ECU]]
EFi Technology Srl ( http://www.efitechnology.it ) "Euro1" ECU: Fitted to EWVTA S1 Sport160 cars.
{{clr}}

[[image:LotusK4ECU.JPG|thumb|left|Lotus K4 ECU]]
Lotus K4 Engine Control Unit: fitted to S2 Elise with K-series(i.e. 122ps, 135ps, 158ps VVC, Sport190)
{{clr}}

== Toyota Elises ==
[[image:LotusT4ECU.JPG|thumb|left|Lotus T4 ECU]]
Lotus T4 Engine Control Unit: fitted to all manual throttle controlled Toyota 2ZZ-GE engined cars.
{{clr}}

[[image:LotusT4eECU.JPG|thumb|left|Lotus T4e ECU]]
Lotus T4e Engine Control Unit: fitted to electronically throttle controlled Toyota 2ZZ-GE engined cars.
{{clr}}

== Aftermarket ECUs ==
[[image:M3DK.JPG|thumb|left|Emerald M3DK]]
The [[Emerald]] M3DK is a plug compatible replacement ECU for the Rover MEMS unit used on the K series, it utilises the existing engine sensors and works with distributor based systems and distributorless 'wasted spark' systems. It is compatible with the immobiliser as fitted to Elises and Caterhams. It is fully programmable and comes complete with software, manual, comms cable and example maps. It has user tailorable soft and hard cut rev-limits and a user programmable shift light.
{{clr}}

== ECU mapping ==

If you make substantial changes to your car setup or simply want to ensure that the ECU is correctly configured to control the fuel system, then you could consider a "mapping" session on a rolling road.

ECUs generally work by comparing the engine speed in rpm to the position of the throttle. The ECU then compares these values on a "map" to find the correct amount of fuel to add. This ensures that an engine is not running too rich or too lean, both of which can be undesirable with the latter leading to detonation.

The mapping process will involve your car being run on a rolling road for a period of time, with an operator changing the map on the fly. The rolling road will then allow the operator to add the optimum values to the map.

{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google map reference
|-
| [http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/index.htm JKM Performance]
| Bolde Close, Copnor, Portsmouth, Hampshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=PO3+5RD(JKM+Performance) PO3 5RD]
|-
|}

== See Also ==
* http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Control_Unit

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Windscreen wipers

2007-04-18T22:09:43Z

Dirty Den:

The windscreen wipers on the elise can be a bit sucky, so here is a list of things you can do to aid visibility in wet weather.

'''1) Rain-X.''' A liquid windscreen coating that costs about £5 from halfords. This causes water to form beads and run off, greatly improving visibility. At high speeds, windscreen wipers are not always necessary even in heavy rain.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10151&productId=222433&categoryId=31293

'''2) S2 Wiper arm''' (If you have an S1). The OE S1 wiper arm requires a special blade, and also does not pivot away from the windscreen fully. For about £25 you can replace this with an S2 arm and a standard blade. Fitting the arm is easy:

- take note of the blade position (it's a good idea to stick some masking tape to the windscreen and draw a line on the masking tape showing the blade position).

- lift the plastic cap at the bottom of the arm.

- undo bolt and remove the existing arm. Don't prise the arm away with a screwdriver levered against the windscreen; this will likely crack the windscreen glass.

- locate new arm in position noted earlier and then tighten the bolt. The splines on the fitting will cut into the smooth plastic of the wiper arm as you tighten the bolt.

- check that the front service compartment lid will close properly and does not touch the arm. Tighten the bolt further if necessary.

'''3) JML Wonder Wipers.''' £7 from Woolworths, or mail order from the JML website (or £4.97 from Amazon). These replacement rubbers for a standard wiper blade are more effective than their price would suggest, and outperform some far more expensive blades. The blades are 72.5cm long.
http://www.jmldirect.com/ NO LONGER AVAILABLE

'''4) Aero Blades.''' Some drivers have reported these work really well, although they do lift a little bit at the edges.
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/home.php?cat=724

If you notice the edges of the wiper are lifting away from the windscreen, you can '''gently''' bend the inner part of the blade frame using pliers to increase the amount of travel available to the brackets.

5) By far the best blade I’ve ever fitted to a vehicle is the '''Aero Blade''' from autobulbs, one piece rubber construction, no moving metal parts to bend or rust, the sweep rubber is still as new after one year on my vehicle. You will need an S2 arm to fit these, and about bending the end, which does lift off the screen over by tax disc, why bother it has no affect whatsoever on its cleaning or viewing area. Make sure it clicks securely into the arm, might require some force, have seen these badly fitted and then not sweep correctly.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Windscreen wipers

2007-04-18T22:08:56Z

Dirty Den:

The windscreen wipers on the elise can be a bit sucky, so here is a list of things you can do to aid visibility in wet weather.

'''1) Rain-X.''' A liquid windscreen coating that costs about £5 from halfords. This causes water to form beads and run off, greatly improving visibility. At high speeds, windscreen wipers are not always necessary even in heavy rain.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10151&productId=222433&categoryId=31293

'''2) S2 Wiper arm''' (If you have an S1). The OE S1 wiper arm requires a special blade, and also does not pivot away from the windscreen fully. For about £25 you can replace this with an S2 arm and a standard blade. Fitting the arm is easy:

- take note of the blade position (it's a good idea to stick some masking tape to the windscreen and draw a line on the masking tape showing the blade position)
- lift the plastic cap at the bottom of the arm
- undo bolt and remove the existing arm. Don't prise the arm away with a screwdriver levered against the windscreen; this will likely crack the windscreen glass.
- locate new arm in position noted earlier and then tighten the bolt. The splines on the fitting will cut into the smooth plastic of the wiper arm as you tighten the bolt.
- check that the front service compartment lid will close properly and does not touch the arm. Tighten bolt if necessary.

'''3) JML Wonder Wipers.''' £7 from Woolworths, or mail order from the JML website (or £4.97 from Amazon). These replacement rubbers for a standard wiper blade are more effective than their price would suggest, and outperform some far more expensive blades. The blades are 72.5cm long.
http://www.jmldirect.com/ NO LONGER AVAILABLE

'''4) Aero Blades.''' Some drivers have reported these work really well, although they do lift a little bit at the edges.
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/home.php?cat=724

If you notice the edges of the wiper are lifting away from the windscreen, you can '''gently''' bend the inner part of the blade frame using pliers to increase the amount of travel available to the brackets.

5) By far the best blade I’ve ever fitted to a vehicle is the '''Aero Blade''' from autobulbs, one piece rubber construction, no moving metal parts to bend or rust, the sweep rubber is still as new after one year on my vehicle. You will need an S2 arm to fit these, and about bending the end, which does lift off the screen over by tax disc, why bother it has no affect whatsoever on its cleaning or viewing area. Make sure it clicks securely into the arm, might require some force, have seen these badly fitted and then not sweep correctly.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Windscreen wipers

2007-04-18T22:06:41Z

Dirty Den: Masking tape for marking S2 blade position

The windscreen wipers on the elise can be a bit sucky, so here is a list of things you can do to aid visibility in wet weather.

'''1) Rain-X.''' A liquid windscreen coating that costs about £5 from halfords. This causes water to form beads and run off, greatly improving visibility. At high speeds, windscreen wipers are not always necessary even in heavy rain.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10151&productId=222433&categoryId=31293

'''2) S2 Wiper arm''' (If you have an S1). The OE S1 wiper arm requires a special blade, and also does not pivot away from the windscreen fully. For about £25 you can replace this with an S2 arm and a standard blade. Fitting the arm is easy:
- take note of the blade position (it's a good idea to stick some masking tape to the windscreen and draw a line on the masking tape showing the blade position)
- lift the plastic cap at the bottom of the arm
- undo bolt, remove arm.
- locate new arm in position noted earlier and then tighten the bolt. The splines on the fitting will cut into the smooth plastic of the wiper arm as you tighten the bolt.
- check that the front service compartment lid will close properly and does not touch the arm. tighten bolt if necessary.

'''3) JML Wonder Wipers.''' £7 from Woolworths, or mail order from the JML website (or £4.97 from Amazon). These replacement rubbers for a standard wiper blade are more effective than their price would suggest, and outperform some far more expensive blades. The blades are 72.5cm long.
http://www.jmldirect.com/ NO LONGER AVAILABLE

'''4) Aero Blades.''' Some drivers have reported these work really well, although they do lift a little bit at the edges.
http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/home.php?cat=724

If you notice the edges of the wiper are lifting away from the windscreen, you can '''gently''' bend the inner part of the blade frame using pliers to increase the amount of travel available to the brackets.

5) By far the best blade I’ve ever fitted to a vehicle is the '''Aero Blade''' from autobulbs, one piece rubber construction, no moving metal parts to bend or rust, the sweep rubber is still as new after one year on my vehicle. You will need an S2 arm to fit these, and about bending the end, which does lift off the screen over by tax disc, why bother it has no affect whatsoever on its cleaning or viewing area. Make sure it clicks securely into the arm, might require some force, have seen these badly fitted and then not sweep correctly.

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Emerald

2007-04-06T19:57:03Z

Dirty Den:

Manufacturer of aftermarket [[ECU]]s

== External links ==
* http://www.emeraldm3d.com/

[[Category:Suppliers]]

Elise-shop

2007-04-06T19:56:35Z

Dirty Den:

===Elise-shop===

Elise \ Exige Online part suppliers

http://www.elise-shop.com/

[[Category:Suppliers]]

Insurance

2007-03-29T08:24:45Z

Dirty Den: Heritage no longer mod friendly according to their quick quote tool

==Companies==
{| border="1"
!Name & Weblink !! Phone !! Contact !! Mod Friendly !! Track Day Cover Included
|-
|[http://www.elephant.co.uk Elephant] || 0870 0131072 || || No ||
|-
|[http://www.competition-car-insurance.co.uk/ Competition Car Insurance (CCI)], AKA THB Eggar Lawson || 0115 941 5255 (option 4, || Steve Halham or Mary Singleton || Yes || 4 free days with approved organisers
|-
|[http://www.heritage-quote.co.uk Heritage] ||0121 246 6060 || || No || Yes
|-
| [http://www.ckinsurance.co.uk Chris Knott] || 0800 917 2274 || || Yes || No
|-
| [http://www.autotorque.co.uk/ Autotorque] || 0161 278 5226 || || Yes ||
No
|-
| [http://www.privateclients.aon.co.uk/privateclients/microsites/cars/ AON Esteem] || 08705 708090 or 01483 706055 || Ask for Lotus Esteem contact || ||
|-
| [http://www.adrianflux.co.uk/ Adrian Flux] || 08700 772233 || || ||
|-
| [http://www.noeldazely.co.uk/ Noel Dazely] || 0870 0466604 || || Yes ||
|-
| [http://www.aplan.co.uk/ A-Plan] || 01635 874646 || || Yes || No
|}

== One-off Track Day Insurance ==

* Competition Car Insurance - http://www.competition-car-insurance.co.uk/enquiry.htm
* Morris - http://www.morispayment.co.uk/affiliate_trackday.asp?prefix=CIG

CCI insurance is cheaper if the event is a novice trackday, so be sure to mention it.

Insurance

2007-03-29T08:18:18Z

Dirty Den: Added Mary Singleton to contacts for CCI

==Companies==
{| border="1"
!Name & Weblink !! Phone !! Contact !! Mod Friendly !! Track Day Cover Included
|-
|[http://www.elephant.co.uk Elephant] || 0870 0131072 || || No ||
|-
|[http://www.competition-car-insurance.co.uk/ Competition Car Insurance (CCI)], AKA THB Eggar Lawson || 0115 941 5255 (option 4, || Steve Halham or Mary Singleton || Yes || 4 free days with approved organisers
|-
|[http://www.heritage-quote.co.uk Heritage] ||0121 246 6060 || || Yes || Yes
|-
| [http://www.ckinsurance.co.uk Chris Knott] || 0800 917 2274 || || Yes || No
|-
| [http://www.autotorque.co.uk/ Autotorque] || 0161 278 5226 || || Yes ||
No
|-
| [http://www.privateclients.aon.co.uk/privateclients/microsites/cars/ AON Esteem] || 08705 708090 or 01483 706055 || Ask for Lotus Esteem contact || ||
|-
| [http://www.adrianflux.co.uk/ Adrian Flux] || 08700 772233 || || ||
|-
| [http://www.noeldazely.co.uk/ Noel Dazely] || 0870 0466604 || || Yes ||
|-
| [http://www.aplan.co.uk/ A-Plan] || 01635 874646 || || Yes || No
|}

== One-off Track Day Insurance ==

* Competition Car Insurance - http://www.competition-car-insurance.co.uk/enquiry.htm
* Morris - http://www.morispayment.co.uk/affiliate_trackday.asp?prefix=CIG

CCI insurance is cheaper if the event is a novice trackday, so be sure to mention it.

Servicing costs

2007-03-27T12:06:11Z

Dirty Den: /* Plans Motorsport */

===servicing costs===

'''Please note this may be inaccurate due to price changes etc.'''

===Lipscomb Lotus===

These are all inclusive of VAT parts & Labour.

K-Series (111 / 111S)

A service £195

B service £295

C service £530 (tensioner & roller advised which takes it to approx £585ish)

Toyota (all)

1 yr / 9000 miles £225

2yr / 18000miles £225

3yr / 27000miles £295

4yr / 36000miles £295

5yr / 45000miles £225

6yr / 54000miles £385

Other bits:

Brake Fluid Change £50

Coolant change £50

MOT £50.35

Trackday pre service £60

===Plans Motorsport===

These prices will need to be adjusted if you ask Plans to use a fully synthetic oil for the service.

'''Lotus Elise S1'''

"A" Service £199.00

"B" Service £299.00

"C" Service £499.00

"C" Service 111S (VVC Engine) £579.00

'''Lotus Exige S1'''

"A" Service £199.00

"B" Service £309.00

"C" Service £519.00

'''Lotus Elise S2'''

"A" Service £199.00

"B" Service £299.00

"C" Service £539.00

"C" Service 111S (VVC Engine) £629.00

'''Lotus Elise 111R/Exige S2'''

Annual Service (1,2,4,5 year) £199.00

3rd Year Service £239.00

6th Year Service £349.00

'''Lotus Exige S2 220S/240 Cup'''

Annual Service (1,2,4,5 year) £369.00

3rd and 6th Year Service £469.00

===Sinclaire's London===

'''Lotus elise'''

"A" £182.03

"B" £275.00

"C" £499.00

"C" 111S £578.55

'''Lotus Exige'''

"A" £203.11

"B" £307.90

"C" £532.89

Servicing

2007-02-04T21:51:12Z

Dirty Den: Specified service sequence for "Sport" variants & Exige

===Servicing===

Compiled by Dot

In order to maintain warranty validation and help ensure proper safety, emissions performance and dependability of the vehicle, Lotus Cars Ltd. requires that the vehicle be serviced in accordance with this schedule. Each service should be performed either within 1000 miles (1600 kms) of the distance stipulated, or within one month of the anniversary of the previous service, whichever first occurs. Any necessary repairs should be completed without delay.

A cross (X) in the following table indicates an operation to be performed. The corresponding box should be ticked when the operation has been satisfactorily performed, or the X circled if extra work and time is required. The approval of the customer should be obtained before any extra work is undertaken, details of which should be recorded in the space provided at the end of the schedule.

After Sales Service: There is no charge to the vehicle owner for the labour content of the After Sales Service. Only materials used will be charged.

Inspect means assess condition and test for correct operation. Extra time is required to adjust or repair - advise customer beforehand if necessary.

Check means test and adjust/fill or tighten as necessary. Labour time is included.

There are four types of services for the Elise:

1) After sales Service (AS)

2) A Service (A)

3) B Service (B)

4) C Service (C)

Servicing Sequence Type KM / Mileage or time:

AS 1500 / 1000 or within 12 months

A 15000 / 9000 or 12 months

A 30000 / 18000 or 12 months

B 45000 / 27000 or 12 months

A 60000 / 36000 or 12 months

A 75000 / 45000 or 12 months

C 90000 / 54000 or 12 months

A 105000 / 63000 or 12 months

A 120000 / 72000 or 12 months

B 135000 / 81000 or 12 months

A 150000 / 90000 or 12 months

A 165000 / 99000 or 12 months

C 180000 / 108000 or 12 months

Note that for some variants (Sport 160/190, Exige), the service interval is every 6000 miles instead of the usual 9000 miles. Many advocate a service sequence of A,B,A,B,A,C on these cars so that the spark plugs are replaced every other service. Apparently this is what Lotus always intended but some service record books were printed incorrectly.

[[Image:schedule.GIF|left]]
{{clr}}

Battery

2007-02-01T20:59:37Z

Dirty Den:

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

===Halfords - K-Series ===

Code: Type 063

It is on their computer system if you cant remember and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausible as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

You will need a torks screwdriver to remove the plastic blind rivets which attach the radiator cowl.

Remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor cover also,
these just make space to manoeuvre the battery.

Remove the windscreen washer bottle, the battery clamp it attaches to and its three screws.

I had to cut two tie-wraps to free some cables below the radiator cowl - so I could pull them out of the way.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

The battery is a bit of a tight squeeze but you should now be able to lift it out of the car.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vasaline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vasaline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

Took me 40 mins, would have been half that if I had known the above beforehand.

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yota Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

Stack

2007-01-25T08:32:19Z

Dirty Den: Specified that the Stack is from a S1 car

===Stack or Instrument binnacle===

The Instrument binnacle in the Elise is made buy a company called 'Stack' and therefore is referred to as 'Stack unit' or just 'Stack'.

[[image:elisestack.JPG|thumb|left|S1 Elise Stack Unit]]
{{clr}}

===Also See===

[http://www.stackltd.com/ Stack's WebSite]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dashboard#Dashboard_items Dashbord Instrument cluster]

Battery

2007-01-18T12:51:38Z

Dirty Den: Spelling correction.

Battery

2007-01-17T09:21:56Z

Dirty Den: Added detail about the use of battery conditioners & overdiluting electrolyte

'''Under Construction'''

===Battery===

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

Voltage - 12V

Capacity - 55Ah

CCA(EN) - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

Dimensions(mm):

242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulfuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, allbeit very low, current to the battery.

A truely intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG]]
Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.

[[image:battery3.JPG]]
A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.

[[image:battery4.JPG]]

===Halfords===

Code: Type 063

It is on their computer system if you cant remember and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - check the benefits pages for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Alledgedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but dont fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

(Hopefully an S1 owner will be along shortly to confirm their handbook is fine too)

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DONT DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. DONT arm the alarm or immoboliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (ie before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off)

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yoda Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batterys]

Acronyms

2007-01-05T16:49:06Z

Dirty Den:

===Forum Acronyms===

{|
|-
| AFAIK
| '''A'''s '''F'''ar '''A'''s '''I''' '''K'''now
|-
| BS
| '''B'''ullshit
|-
| DAFL
| '''D'''ing '''A''' '''F'''**king '''L'''ing
|-
| DPM
| '''D'''ouble '''P'''osting '''M'''uppet
|-
| FFS
| '''S'''imon '''S'''cuffham
|-
| FRO
| '''F'''**k '''R'''ight '''O'''ff
|-
| g/f
| '''G'''irl'''f'''riend
|-
| GF
| '''G'''et '''F'''**ked
|-
|-
| GJOB
| '''G'''arage '''J'''ewellery '''O'''wning '''B'''a***rd
|-
| GLOL
| '''G'''enuinely '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| HTH
| '''H'''ope '''T'''hat '''H'''elps
|-
| IIRC
| '''I'''f '''I''' '''R'''ecall '''C'''orrectly
|-
| IMO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''O'''pinion
|-
| IMHO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''H'''umble '''O'''pinion
|-
| IYSWIM
| '''I'''f '''Y'''ou '''S'''ee '''W'''hat '''I''' '''M'''ean
|-
| LMAO
| '''L'''augh '''M'''y '''A'''ss '''O'''ff
|-
| LOL
| '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| MMC
| '''M'''ade '''M'''e '''C'''huckle
|-
| ROFLOL
| '''R'''olling '''O'''n '''F'''loor '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| SEOT
| '''S'''orted '''E'''nd '''O'''f '''T'''hread
|-
| SWMBO
| '''S'''he '''W'''ho '''M'''ust '''B'''e '''O'''beyed
|-
| TADTS
| '''T'''hey '''A'''ll '''D'''o '''T'''hat '''S'''ir
|-
| TIA
| '''T'''hanks '''I'''n '''A'''dvance
|-
| TTIWWP
| '''T'''his '''T'''hread '''I'''s '''W'''orthless '''W'''ithout '''P'''ictures
|-
| VOE
| '''V'''oice '''O'''f '''E'''xperience
|-
| MFTTL
| '''M'''ore '''F'''***ing '''T'''hings '''T'''o '''L'''earn
|}

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Wikipedia on Acronyms]

[http://www.acronymfinder.com/ AcronymFinder.com Every Acronym Ever!]

Acronyms

2007-01-05T15:34:18Z

Dirty Den:

===Forum Acronyms===

{|
|-
| AFAIK
| '''A'''s '''F'''ar '''A'''s '''I''' '''K'''now
|-
| BS
| '''B'''ullshit
|-
| DPM
| '''D'''ouble '''P'''osting '''M'''uppet
|-
| FFS
| '''S'''imon '''S'''cuffham
|-
| FRO
| '''F'''**k '''R'''ight '''O'''ff
|-
| g/f
| '''G'''irl'''f'''riend
|-
| GF
| '''G'''et '''F'''**ked
|-
|-
| GJOB
| '''G'''arage '''J'''ewellery '''O'''wning '''B'''a***rd
|-
| GLOL
| '''G'''enuinely '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| HTH
| '''H'''ope '''T'''hat '''H'''elps
|-
| IIRC
| '''I'''f '''I''' '''R'''ecall '''C'''orrectly
|-
| IMO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''O'''pinion
|-
| IMHO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''H'''umble '''O'''pinion
|-
| LMAO
| '''L'''augh '''M'''y '''A'''ss '''O'''ff
|-
| LOL
| '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| MMC
| '''M'''ade '''M'''e '''C'''huckle
|-
| ROFLOL
| '''R'''olling '''O'''n '''F'''loor '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| TADTS
| '''T'''hey '''A'''ll '''D'''o '''T'''hat '''S'''ir
|-
| TIA
| '''T'''hanks '''I'''n '''A'''dvance
|-
| TTIWWP
| '''T'''his '''T'''hread '''I'''s '''W'''orthless '''W'''ithout '''P'''ictures
|-
| VOE
| '''V'''oice '''O'''f '''E'''xperience
|}

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Wikipedia on Acronyms]

[http://www.acronymfinder.com/ AcronymFinder.com Every Acronym Ever!]

Servicing

2006-12-11T09:41:08Z

Dirty Den: Mention some variants have a 6000 mile service interval.

Oil and filter change

2006-11-10T10:10:57Z

Dirty Den: Edited to suggest cranking for oil pressure

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Oil_Labelling_Explained Information About Oil]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.<sup>1</sup>
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter.
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand.
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will very if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not overtighten.
# Replace the previously removed ECU or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

<sup>1</sup>Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

[[Category:DIY]]

Lotus specialists

2006-10-09T15:59:40Z

Dirty Den: Hopefully corrected formatting problem

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://www.judeperformance.co.uk/ Jude Performance Services]
| Unit 1,Naylor Court,Blaydon,Tyne & Wear, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NE21+5NH(Jude+Performance) NE21 5NH]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+ONB(PTP) LE10 ONB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| Tom Horsburgh (Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Kingsley, near Alton, Hampshire. Contact: 07833 347303
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

Lotus specialists

2006-10-09T15:51:04Z

Dirty Den: Added Tom Horsburgh (bodywork and paintwork) to UK list

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://www.judeperformance.co.uk/ Jude Performance Services]
| Unit 1,Naylor Court,Blaydon,Tyne & Wear, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NE21+5NH(Jude+Performance) NE21 5NH]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+ONB(PTP) LE10 ONB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| Tom Horsburgh (Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Kingsley, near Alton, Hampshire. Contact: 07833 347303
|-
}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

Engine oil

2006-09-11T14:09:21Z

Dirty Den: Added link to the engine oil bible

===Engine Oil ===

In order to ensure the longevity and reliability of the vehicle, it is most important that only the specified lubricants are used. It is an entirely false economy to try to save money by using lower quality oils, which may degade before the next change interval and provide inadequate protection before the end of the term.

High oil consumption may also result.
The engine is factory filled with a top quality mineral oil to be used during the running-in
period until the After Sales Service. Once running-in has been completed, it is considered
that fully synthetic engine oils represent the best value in terms of fuel economy and wear
protection.

A multigrade oil is designated with a low temperature viscosity grade
(first number with ‘W’ for winter) followed by a high temperature viscosity grade.
Oils with low cold viscosity, offer benefits in terms of fuel economy, ease of cranking and starting, and cold run protection.
Oils with high hot viscosity offer increased protection at high temperatures and high rpm.

For the ‘Mk.1’ and ‘Mk.2’ Elise:

Choose a multigrade oil with viscosity in the following range:

Cold viscosity; 0 - 20W

Hot viscosity; 50 - 60

For use in temperate climates, Lotus specifically recommends the following fully synthetic
products:

-Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50

-Castrol Formula RS 10W/60

For use in extreme cold climates, choose an oil with a low temperature viscosity of 0W.

For the Elise 111R/Exige ‘Mk.2’/USA Elise:

These models have been tested in all climatic conditions likely to be encountered with
Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W/40 oil which offers advantages in ease of cranking, smooth
cold running and fuel economy at low temperatures, in combination with good wear
protection at elevated temperatures and at high engine speeds.

However, if a car is to be driven on track at maximum effort, or in conditions or a manner likely to result in very high oil temperatures being achieved, the engine oil should be changed for

Castrol Formula RS 10W/60.

Lotus 900 series 4 cylinder engines and V8:

Choose a multigrade oil with viscosity in the following range:

Cold viscosity; 0 - 15W

Hot viscosity; 40 - 60

Lotus specifically recommends

Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50, and Castrol Formula RS 10W/60.

In all cases, the oil quality grades which should be met are either European standard ACEA
A3, American standard API SL/CF, SJ/CF, or international standard ILSAC GF-3. Check
that this is printed on the oil container.

==Other sources of information==

[http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Oil_Labelling_Explained Oil Labelling Explaned]

[http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Oil_and_filter_change Oil and Filter Change]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil Wikipedia on Motor Oil]

[http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ Opie Oil]

[http://www.grouplotus.com/media/car/doc/engineoil.pdf Download This Information in a PDF]

[http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html External link to the Engine Oil Bible]

Head gasket failure

2006-09-11T12:40:00Z

Dirty Den:

Signs of head gasket failure tend to include oil in the coolant expansion bottle, or oil becoming emulsified where the coolant from the coolant ways seeps through the gasket into oil. This can normally be seen as a "mayonnaise" type substance inside the oil filler cap or the engine oil dipstick.

Original designs of the head gasket were held in place by dowels that allowed minute movement of the gasket. Later gaskets are held in place by steel dowels, which do not allow movement of the gasket.

If you suspect HGF, '''do not''' drive the car and have it checked by a reputable garage. This can include checking the coolant for hydrocarbons to see if oil/gases have escaped past the gasket into the coolant ways. If the engine has overheated and the cylinder head has become warped, then the head will need to be skimmed so that it can be reseated onto a new gasket at a later date.

To avoid head gasket failure, always check the coolant level, hoses for damage and jubilee clips for tightness. Warming the engine up gradually from cold may also be beneficial.