TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Radio reception

2010-10-12T11:50:44Z

Eoin: Adding DAB to the radio options.

===Elise Radio Reception===

The Elise is notorious for its poor radio reception. This is mainly due to the lack of a ground plane for the aerial, and the large amount of Radio Frequency Interferance (RFI) which is radiated from the engine bay.

A longer aerial can help - the Wip from a Rover 25 is a direct replacement and only costs a few quid.

A self adhesive aluminum foil, pre-cut to the shape of the boot lid is available from Lotus (Part No A111M0131F) and provide a ground plane.

Don't be tempted to add an aerial amplifier, the existing aerial base already contains one and adding another will not help.

I did both of these things, and added a briaded wire connecting the two larger grills in the boot lid, the aerial base, and the chassis member earth point.

[[Image:groundplane.jpg|thumb|left|S1 Engine Cover]]
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This helped quite a bit and improves the reception to the point where its "ok".

Some people have had success using Digital Audio Broadcasting (DAB) radios which are a bit more tollerant of poor reception and often use a metalic tape aerial oround the passanger edge of the windscreen. Unfortunately DAB coverage over the UK is still a bit patchy.

===A Cheaper Option===

'''by SELOC Member [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=dobbin Dobbin]'''

A cheap alternative is to line engine cover (around the region of the aerial mount) with Aluminium foil Duck Tape, available from most DIY shops etc (http://www.tapes-direct.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=200&products_id=934 ). Make sure that the adheasive on the tape is conductive like this stuff [http://www.duckproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=1&subid=4&plid=17 Duck Tape]

[[Image:engine1.jpg|thumb|left|Engine Cover with Aluminium Duck Tape]]
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Removed engine cover, removed aerial mount, clean the inside. Starting from the central spine of the engine cover (and the aerial mounting hole) add several strips. Additional strips can be added around the edge of the vents and near the locking mechanism.

Note from the pics below, that the nut holding the aerial mount has good contact with the tape. Also running a new earth wire from the base of the aerial to the battery (negative terminal) or a better ground connection (near the roll over hoop) may help. Looks like some people have improved reception by wrapping ali foil round the aerial cable as well.

[[Image:engine2.jpg|thumb|left|Engine Cover]]
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[[Image:engine3.jpg|thumb|left|Engine Cover with Aluminium Duck Tape]]
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===Also===
[http://www.sgt.co.uk SGT] in Maidenhead sell an aliminium plate that fits under the aerial to increase the ground plane. No idea what the part number is because they had them made to order, cost about £9 though.

===Aerial Base===

The original part is from a Vauxhall Corsa/Omega/Frontera/Carlton/VX220. The part number for the amplified base unit is 90339506, currently about £47. The Lotus part number is A082M6534F.

===Also Also===

A clip on ferrite ring (approx £2) from Maplin (the type that come in 2 halves in a clippy plastic case - see here : http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=32799&criteria=ferrite&doy=29m7 ) clipped around the aerial cable reduces the interference caused by engine electrics. Try to get as close a fit as possible to the cable diameter.

===DAB===

In an S1, an easy way to improve reception is to use a DAB radio with a windscreen mounted aerial. This picks up the BBC ensemble and the National1 ensemble completely giving BBC1 to BBC7, Virgin, Planet Rock, BFBS etc etc.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Brake fluid

2010-10-12T11:46:04Z

Eoin: Adding a supplier for Castrol Super Response brake fluid.

[[Image:Castrol super dot brake fluid.jpg|thumb|left|Castrol Response Super DOT 4]]

Lotus specifies Castrol Response Super DOT 4 brake fluid, changed annually. This is a fully synthetic brake fluid that exceeds the boiling point specifications of most DOT 5.1 fluids and is no more costly. For road use this is fine.

This can be hard to locate, also very important to note that it is '''Super''' as Castrol do also sell a normal response DOT 4.

[http://www.racelubricants.co.uk/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=111&P_ID=450 Castrol Response Super DOT 4 Sold here]

It's also sold by Sussex Classic MGF Car Parts at Partridge Green in West Sussex [http://www.mgfcarparts.co.uk/ MGF Car Parts website] at £11.68 per litre as of October 2010.

Hard track use with extended high temperatures over 30 minute sessions needs some further consideration; regular change of less expensive fluid or more expensive race fluid changed less? There is no right answer.

The function of brake fluid is to provide an incompressible medium to transmit the driver’s foot pressure to clamp the friction material against the discs. When fresh, all brake fluids are virtually incompressible, but overheated brake fluid will boil in the calliper producing gas bubbles which are compressible leading to a “soft” brake pedal with long travel.<br style="clear:both" />

[[Image:AP600 Brake Fluid.jpg|thumb|left|AP600]]

The dry boiling point is the temperature at which a given brake fluid boils when it is fresh out of the can. Since DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are hygroscopic and adsorb water over time (through the breathers, caliper piston seals and by magic) which boils at 100 °C, the absorbed water dramatically lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid. The Wet boiling point is the temperature at which a given brake fluid boils when it has taken on 3.7% H2O. For detailed discussion checkout http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml<br style="clear:both" />

DOT 4 and 5.1 are polyethylene glycol based fluids and are perfectly fine to mix. Don't mix 4 or 5.1 with DOT 5 as it's silicone based and is not compatible.

The specification for DOT 5.1 is higher than DOT 4 - the reality here is that most race fluid is DOT 4 but meets/exceeds the spec of DOT 5.1 in most aspects but may fail the long term tests, hence why they are classified as DOT 4.

Notes from a 40 track hour a year Elise;
[[Image:Castrol SRF Brake Fluid.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Castrol SRF]]

• '''Castrol Response DOT 4''' £7/lit (Dry 270°C Wet ca170°C). Note this is not the Lotus recommended fluid '''NON SUPER'''.
This is listed for comparison against Super.

• '''Comma DOT5.1''' £8/lit (Dry 280°C Wet 180°C). Is this as good as the Castrol Super DOT4 ?

• '''Castrol Response Super DOT 4''' £10/lit (Dry 280°C Wet 186°C). This was needing to be changed every 6 track hours with a gradually softening pedal, coming out black from the front callipers and discoloured from the rear.

• '''AP600''' £20/lit (Dry 310°C Wet 210°C). This seems to want 50ml bled off the front callipers every 6 track hours (no noticeable colour change) which will effectively purge the system every year (but don't forget to do the rears and clutch).

• '''Motul RBF600''' £25/lit (Dry 312°C Wet 216°C). To be tested.

• '''R600+''' £26/lit (Dry 315°C Wet 204°C). As used by [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=randy Randy].

• '''Silkolene Pro Race 2000''' £30/lit (Dry 300°C Wet 195°C). Need to test this

• '''Motul RBF660''' £35/lit (Dry 325°C Wet 204°C). To be tested.

• '''Castrol SRF''' £50/lit (Dry 310°C Wet 270°C) This is in a class by itself with patented chemistry providing wet boiling point close to most other fluids dry. Not affluent enough to try this.

==Brake bleeding (quick)==

Order; OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF. Wheels off for the rears, but can do it through the spokes at the front. For each calliper in turn, pump the brake pedal until it is solid then maintain the pressure whilst the other person puts a non return value on the brake nipple and releases it (11 mm spanner) until the pedal hits the deck.

'''Brake bleeding (long - wheels and calipers off)'''

• Tap on the calipers and hoses gently with a plastic hammer to dislodge any bubbles that adhere to the surface

• Get some (very)worn brake pads. Fit these to the front calipers and press the pedal a few times to extend the pistons. This will fill them up with fluid.

• Now put the pressure bleeder on the reservoir and put some light pressure on it. Not too much or you can pop the pistons out in the next step.

• Remove a front caliper, invert it open the bleed nipple and tape the brake hoses gently and also tap on the inside of the caliper.

• Then (with your hands) squeeze the INNER piston in. This will empty the inner piston and force the bubbles to the front one. Make sure you push it completely in.

• Now carefully rotate the piston normal side up again. Try to turn it so any bubbles in the outer piston will not try to go up the connecting pipe again.

• Now tap the caliper again and squeeze the OUTER piston back into the caliper. Once it's fully in, close the bleed nipple and do the other side.

• You should get some extra bubbles out.

• For the rear brakes make sure you screw the pistons completely back into the caliper before you bleed them.

Don't skimp on the amount of fluid. Get 2L and work your way through it.

-->

See also: [[Bleed the brakes]]

[http://www.aaoil.co.uk/racing-R600 R600+ Found here.]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5.1 DOT 5.1]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_4 DOT 4]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5 DOT 5]

[http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_italy/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/TDS_RESPDOT4.PDF Castrol Response DOT 4 Spec Sheet]

[http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_italy/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/TDS_RESSDOT4.PDF Castrol Response Super DOT 4 Spec Sheet]

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[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Alternator

2008-04-17T21:11:59Z

Eoin: Edit to add part number for S1 alternator belt from Rover.

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
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==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrican.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for an S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT.

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
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'''Removal of Alternator'''
This is same as above but in addition you need to remove the 2No. cables; one is bolted on to the rear of the alternator using a 13mm nut, the other is a clip-on connector. Before removing the nut and cables, disconnect the battery.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Heat Protection==

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on ebay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part

Talk:Chassis development

2008-03-24T18:43:43Z

Eoin: Toe in/out

Your discussion on toe-in and toe-out is wrong. You have obviously mixed the two up. Suggest you correct it.
Cheers
AK

I'm sure its correct?

Anything to back this up?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_%28automotive%29

== Toe in/out ==

I think the article is great with clear pictures but I think the toe in/ toe is mixed up.
Toe in gives straight line stability and I think there's generally always a bit for RWD cars.

Toe out or less toe in helps turn in.

References:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toe_%28automotive%29

Really nice discussion of toe here:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Cheers,