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	<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Flying+banana</id>
	<title>TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]</title>
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	<updated>2026-04-06T10:32:32Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Over_100k&amp;diff=12653</id>
		<title>Over 100k</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Over_100k&amp;diff=12653"/>
		<updated>2018-08-09T08:00:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;===The Over 100,000 Miles Club===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!  Name !!  Car&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/woody72 woody72]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/gpzarquon gpzarquon]&lt;br /&gt;
||&lt;br /&gt;
Elise S2 Racetech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/mexican%bandit mexican bandit]&lt;br /&gt;
|| &lt;br /&gt;
Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Jaye.Tillson Jaye.Tillson] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Edw Edw] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Arno Arno] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jezmondtutu jezmondtutu] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/reAnimate reAnimate] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hairyduck Hairyduck]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/oneslip Oneslip]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/BrianDrought BrianDrought] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Liam Liam] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/GaryDVO GaryDVO] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tigga! Tigga!] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Onch Onch] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Black_potato Black_potato] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Phil._S Phil._S] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Romtootes Romtootes] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tanuki Tanuki] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 &amp;lt;- 2013 Lotus Cup UK Production class winning car&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Linds Linds] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/russcasey russcasey] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/DoubleD DoubleD] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Spunagain Spunagain] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jeffers Jeffers] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/SidewaysMatt SidewaysMatt] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Azlan Azlan] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Andrew%20S Andrew S] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Andy_R Andy_R] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/fatwomble fatwomble] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/YvoTuk YvoTuk] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hag Hag]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/sc-009 sc-009]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/CMU CMU]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Daveman Daveman]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/felixj felixj]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/lotusnick lotusnick]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/wcx375 wcx375]&lt;br /&gt;
|| 135R&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/AL AL]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Sinatra Sinatra]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/luckyb luckyb]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 111r&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Sid Sid]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2 S135&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Bazza990 Bazza990]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/MartynL MartynL]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Karluk00 Karluk00]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/tyrex tyrex]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/dpollard dpollard]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/BruceCrowthorne BruceCrowthorne]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/thebaron thebaron]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/andyelise andyelise]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Ladders Ladders]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/nolan nolan]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/_jayk _jayk]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/abe+froman Abe Froman]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 Sport 160&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hamish Hamish]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Friso Friso]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/opostlethwaite Oli P]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Coen Coen]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stephanie+Plum Stephanie Plum]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2 111S T25&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/edo111s Edoardo C]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2 SC&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Steve+S2 Steve S2]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Ben Ben]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Grays Grays]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/TitaniumDan TitaniumDan]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/atshoom2 atshoom2]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/monkeysandbearspants monkeysandbearspants]&lt;br /&gt;
||S2 Exige N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/flying+banana flying banana]&lt;br /&gt;
||S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Over 200,000 Miles Club===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Name !! Car&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&amp;amp;member=Tony111s Tony111s] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/steve69 steve69] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1-111s&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/JPNucCons JPNucCons]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mousetroy Mousetroy]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hugh.N Hugh.N]&lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The Over 300,000 Miles Club===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Name !! Car&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stu Stu] &lt;br /&gt;
|| S1&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Misc]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=European_Breakdown_Cover&amp;diff=11956</id>
		<title>European Breakdown Cover</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=European_Breakdown_Cover&amp;diff=11956"/>
		<updated>2016-06-07T08:25:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category: Reference]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Misc]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
European Breakdown cover is now harder to get for S1s - being 16 years or older - and can be prohibitively expensive.  If you drive over to Europe two or three time a year, and particularly if you use more than one car (for example: Summer in the Lotus, Winter in the family bus) then a pretty cost effective method is to become an ADAC Plus member.  As of June 2016 it cost €88 per year and is member-centric, like the AA.  So you don&#039;t have to provide vehicle details to sign up and you&#039;re covered whatever you&#039;re driving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Signing up is easy - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1) Send and email to service@adac.de asking to become a member.  Here&#039;s the text I sent:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I am interested in taking ADAC Plus membership starting from the &amp;lt;date&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Name is &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, and my address is&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 1&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 2&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;county&amp;gt; &amp;lt;postcode&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Country&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Many thanks in advance for your kind attention&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich interessiere mich für Einnahme ADAC Plus-Mitgliedschaft ab dem &amp;lt;date&amp;gt; beginnen .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mein Name ist &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, und meine Adresse ist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 1&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 2&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;county&amp;gt; &amp;lt;postcode&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Country&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vielen Dank im Voraus für Ihre Aufmerksamkeit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2) You&#039;ll get an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dear Mr. Vincent, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
thank you for your message and interest in joining ADAC. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the ADAC (Plus) membership provides a reduced range of services and benefits for members residing outside Germany. The classic membership covers breakdown assistance in &lt;br /&gt;
Germany only. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC Plus members will not be entitled to benefits such as spare parts dispatch, vehicle customs &lt;br /&gt;
duties and scrapping, credits and cash service in Germany and in their country of residence. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In view of the above, would you please verify whether a local organisation offers a product that better suits your needs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under the FIA umbrella organisation, ADAC cooperates with other automobile clubs. We believe that your local automobile club might offer products that provide more comprehensive protection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please do not hesitate to get back to us with any questions. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sincerely yours &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3) Just reply thus:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I already have UK breakdown cover for the UK through &amp;lt;your breakdown provider&amp;gt; – but need European breakdown cover for our numerous trips into Europe through the year.  I am happy that the reduced service levels still meet my needs, and ADAC’s price and reputation is why I am seeking cover from you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please let me know what happens next &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Best regards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich habe bereits in Großbritannien Pannenschutz für das Vereinigte Königreich durch &amp;lt;your breakdown provider&amp;gt; - aber brauchen europäische Pannenschutz für unsere zahlreichen Reisen in Europa durch das Jahr. Ich bin froh, dass die reduzierten Service-Levels meine Bedürfnisse noch gerecht zu werden, und ADAC Preis und die Reputation ist , warum ich Abdeckung von Ihnen suche .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bitte lassen Sie mich wissen, was als nächstes passiert &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Freundliche Grüße&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4) You&#039;ll get an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Sehr geehrter Herr Vincent, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wir haben für Sie unter der Mitgliedsnummer 473983044 nun eine ADAC Plus-Mitgliedschaft ausgestellt. Die Unterlagen und die Rechnung dazu erhalten Sie in Kürze auf dem Postweg. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bei Fragen stehen wir Ihnen gerne zur Verfügung. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mit freundlichen Grüßen &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Which is giving you your membership number and that the card and payment details are in the post.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5)When the documentation arrives, it&#039;s all in German (surprise surprise).  To pay, I sent the following email:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich habe jetzt meine Mitgliedskarte und Zahlungsanforderung erhalten - können Sie mir bitte sagen, die einfachste Möglichkeit, die Zahlung von Großbritannien zu machen?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich kann Kreditkarte , Debitkarte oder per Online-Banking bezahlen - ist es am besten, dies telefonisch tun oder können Sie mir Einzelheiten für Sie bitte die Online-Zahlung zu machen?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
freundliche Grüße&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have now received my membership card and payment request - can you please tell me the easiest way to make the payment from Great Britain?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I can pay be credit card, debit card or by online banking - is it best to do this by phone or can you provide me details for making the online payment please?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
best regards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6) In return, they will send you an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dear &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
thank you for your inquiry. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can pay your ADAC dues by credit card. We accept VISA and MasterCard. Please mail the return section below, for privacy purposes in a closed envelope, to: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC e.V. &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice MVZ/MZ2 &lt;br /&gt;
81014 München &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
or fax it to: +49 89 7676 4355 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
or e-mail to: beitrag.kreditkarte@adac.de &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As soon as we have your reply we will charge the amount specified to your credit card. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sincerely yours &lt;br /&gt;
________________________________________&lt;br /&gt;
Member no./Mitgliedsnummer: &amp;lt;membership number&amp;gt;	&amp;lt;unique reference&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC e.V., Mitgliederservice MVZ/MZ2, 81014 München, Deutschland &lt;br /&gt;
•	please print - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please charge the amount below to my &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
( ) VISA ( ) MasterCard &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Amount: _____________________________ €, credit card no.: ______/______/______/______ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3-digit card verification no: ________________ Expiration date: _____/_____ &lt;br /&gt;
(in the card&#039;s signature field) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cardholder&#039;s name: _____________________________________________________________ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Date, cardholder&#039;s signature: ______________________________________________________ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7) Complete the form, scan it, then email it to the indicated email address and a day later you&#039;ll get a confirmation email saying it&#039;s all done.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
SIMPLES!  Hope this has been of some use....all of the German I used was straight out of Google translate, no need to be multilingual.  I&#039;ve read in loads of places on t&#039;internet that ADAC have a number of excellent English speaking phone staff - just use the opening gambit &amp;quot;Sprichst du Englisch?&amp;quot; and you should be fine.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=European_Breakdown_Cover&amp;diff=11954</id>
		<title>European Breakdown Cover</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=European_Breakdown_Cover&amp;diff=11954"/>
		<updated>2016-06-03T11:57:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;European Breakdown cover is now harder to get for S1s - being 16 years or older - and can be prohibitively expensive.  If you drive over to Europe two or three time a year, and particularly if you use more than one car (for example: Summer in the Lotus, Winter in the family bus) then a pretty cost effective method is to become an ADAC Plus member.  As of June 2016 it cost €88 per year and is member-centric, like the AA.  So you don&#039;t have to provide vehicle details to sign up and you&#039;re covered whatever you&#039;re driving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Signing up is easy - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1) Send and email to service@adac.de asking to become a member.  Here&#039;s the text I sent:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I am interested in taking ADAC Plus membership starting from the &amp;lt;date&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Name is &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, and my address is&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 1&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 2&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;county&amp;gt; &amp;lt;postcode&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Country&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Many thanks in advance for your kind attention&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich interessiere mich für Einnahme ADAC Plus-Mitgliedschaft ab dem &amp;lt;date&amp;gt; beginnen .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mein Name ist &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, und meine Adresse ist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 1&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 2&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;county&amp;gt; &amp;lt;postcode&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Country&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vielen Dank im Voraus für Ihre Aufmerksamkeit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2) You&#039;ll get an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dear Mr. Vincent, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
thank you for your message and interest in joining ADAC. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the ADAC (Plus) membership provides a reduced range of services and benefits for members residing outside Germany. The classic membership covers breakdown assistance in &lt;br /&gt;
Germany only. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC Plus members will not be entitled to benefits such as spare parts dispatch, vehicle customs &lt;br /&gt;
duties and scrapping, credits and cash service in Germany and in their country of residence. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In view of the above, would you please verify whether a local organisation offers a product that better suits your needs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under the FIA umbrella organisation, ADAC cooperates with other automobile clubs. We believe that your local automobile club might offer products that provide more comprehensive protection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please do not hesitate to get back to us with any questions. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sincerely yours &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3) Just reply thus:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I already have UK breakdown cover for the UK through &amp;lt;your breakdown provider&amp;gt; – but need European breakdown cover for our numerous trips into Europe through the year.  I am happy that the reduced service levels still meet my needs, and ADAC’s price and reputation is why I am seeking cover from you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please let me know what happens next &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Best regards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich habe bereits in Großbritannien Pannenschutz für das Vereinigte Königreich durch &amp;lt;your breakdown provider&amp;gt; - aber brauchen europäische Pannenschutz für unsere zahlreichen Reisen in Europa durch das Jahr. Ich bin froh, dass die reduzierten Service-Levels meine Bedürfnisse noch gerecht zu werden, und ADAC Preis und die Reputation ist , warum ich Abdeckung von Ihnen suche .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bitte lassen Sie mich wissen, was als nächstes passiert &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Freundliche Grüße&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4) You&#039;ll get an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Sehr geehrter Herr Vincent, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wir haben für Sie unter der Mitgliedsnummer 473983044 nun eine ADAC Plus-Mitgliedschaft ausgestellt. Die Unterlagen und die Rechnung dazu erhalten Sie in Kürze auf dem Postweg. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bei Fragen stehen wir Ihnen gerne zur Verfügung. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mit freundlichen Grüßen &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Which is giving you your membership number and that the card and payment details are in the post.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5)When the documentation arrives, it&#039;s all in German (surprise surprise).  To pay, I sent the following email:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich habe jetzt meine Mitgliedskarte und Zahlungsanforderung erhalten - können Sie mir bitte sagen, die einfachste Möglichkeit, die Zahlung von Großbritannien zu machen?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich kann Kreditkarte , Debitkarte oder per Online-Banking bezahlen - ist es am besten, dies telefonisch tun oder können Sie mir Einzelheiten für Sie bitte die Online-Zahlung zu machen?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
freundliche Grüße&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have now received my membership card and payment request - can you please tell me the easiest way to make the payment from Great Britain?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I can pay be credit card, debit card or by online banking - is it best to do this by phone or can you provide me details for making the online payment please?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
best regards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6) In return, they will send you an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
Dear &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
thank you for your inquiry. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can pay your ADAC dues by credit card. We accept VISA and MasterCard. Please mail the return section below, for privacy purposes in a closed envelope, to: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC e.V. &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice MVZ/MZ2 &lt;br /&gt;
81014 München &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
or fax it to: +49 89 7676 4355 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
or e-mail to: beitrag.kreditkarte@adac.de &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As soon as we have your reply we will charge the amount specified to your credit card. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sincerely yours &lt;br /&gt;
________________________________________&lt;br /&gt;
Member no./Mitgliedsnummer: &amp;lt;membership number&amp;gt;	&amp;lt;unique reference&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC e.V., Mitgliederservice MVZ/MZ2, 81014 München, Deutschland &lt;br /&gt;
•	please print - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please charge the amount below to my &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
( ) VISA ( ) MasterCard &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Amount: _____________________________ €, credit card no.: ______/______/______/______ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3-digit card verification no: ________________ Expiration date: _____/_____ &lt;br /&gt;
(in the card&#039;s signature field) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cardholder&#039;s name: _____________________________________________________________ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Date, cardholder&#039;s signature: ______________________________________________________ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7) Complete the form, scan it, then email it to the indicated email address and a day later you&#039;ll get a confirmation email saying it&#039;s all done.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
SIMPLES!  Hope this has been of some use....all of the German I used was straight out of Google translate, no need to be multilingual.  I&#039;ve read in loads of places on t&#039;internet that ADAC have a number of excellent English speaking phone staff - just use the opening gambit &amp;quot;Sprichst du Englisch?&amp;quot; and you should be fine.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=European_Breakdown_Cover&amp;diff=11953</id>
		<title>European Breakdown Cover</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=European_Breakdown_Cover&amp;diff=11953"/>
		<updated>2016-06-03T11:56:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: Created page with &amp;quot;European Breakdown cover is now harder to get for S1s - being 16 years or older - and can be prohibitively expensive.  If you drive over to Europe two or three time a year, an...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;European Breakdown cover is now harder to get for S1s - being 16 years or older - and can be prohibitively expensive.  If you drive over to Europe two or three time a year, and particularly if you use more than one car (for example: Summer in the Lotus, Winter in the family bus) then a pretty cost effective method is to become an ADAC Plus member.  As of June 2016 it cost €88 per year and is member-centric, like the AA.  So you don&#039;t have to provide vehicle details to sign up and you&#039;re covered whatever you&#039;re driving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Signing up is easy - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1) Send and email to service@adac.de asking to become a member.  Here&#039;s the text I sent:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I am interested in taking ADAC Plus membership starting from the &amp;lt;date&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
My Name is &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, and my address is&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 1&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 2&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;county&amp;gt; &amp;lt;postcode&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Country&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Many thanks in advance for your kind attention&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich interessiere mich für Einnahme ADAC Plus-Mitgliedschaft ab dem &amp;lt;date&amp;gt; beginnen .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mein Name ist &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, und meine Adresse ist&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 1&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;address 2&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;county&amp;gt; &amp;lt;postcode&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Country&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vielen Dank im Voraus für Ihre Aufmerksamkeit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2) You&#039;ll get an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dear Mr. Vincent, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
thank you for your message and interest in joining ADAC. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please note that the ADAC (Plus) membership provides a reduced range of services and benefits for members residing outside Germany. The classic membership covers breakdown assistance in &lt;br /&gt;
Germany only. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC Plus members will not be entitled to benefits such as spare parts dispatch, vehicle customs &lt;br /&gt;
duties and scrapping, credits and cash service in Germany and in their country of residence. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In view of the above, would you please verify whether a local organisation offers a product that better suits your needs. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Under the FIA umbrella organisation, ADAC cooperates with other automobile clubs. We believe that your local automobile club might offer products that provide more comprehensive protection. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please do not hesitate to get back to us with any questions. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sincerely yours &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3) Just reply thus:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I already have UK breakdown cover for the UK through &amp;lt;your breakdown provider&amp;gt; – but need European breakdown cover for our numerous trips into Europe through the year.  I am happy that the reduced service levels still meet my needs, and ADAC’s price and reputation is why I am seeking cover from you.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please let me know what happens next &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Best regards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich habe bereits in Großbritannien Pannenschutz für das Vereinigte Königreich durch &amp;lt;your breakdown provider&amp;gt; - aber brauchen europäische Pannenschutz für unsere zahlreichen Reisen in Europa durch das Jahr. Ich bin froh, dass die reduzierten Service-Levels meine Bedürfnisse noch gerecht zu werden, und ADAC Preis und die Reputation ist , warum ich Abdeckung von Ihnen suche .&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bitte lassen Sie mich wissen, was als nächstes passiert &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Freundliche Grüße&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;Name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4) You&#039;ll get an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sehr geehrter Herr Vincent, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
vielen Dank für Ihre Nachricht. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wir haben für Sie unter der Mitgliedsnummer 473983044 nun eine ADAC Plus-Mitgliedschaft ausgestellt. Die Unterlagen und die Rechnung dazu erhalten Sie in Kürze auf dem Postweg. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bei Fragen stehen wir Ihnen gerne zur Verfügung. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mit freundlichen Grüßen &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Which is giving you your membership number and that the card and payment details are in the post.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5)When the documentation arrives, it&#039;s all in German (surprise surprise).  To pay, I sent the following email:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hallo,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich habe jetzt meine Mitgliedskarte und Zahlungsanforderung erhalten - können Sie mir bitte sagen, die einfachste Möglichkeit, die Zahlung von Großbritannien zu machen?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ich kann Kreditkarte , Debitkarte oder per Online-Banking bezahlen - ist es am besten, dies telefonisch tun oder können Sie mir Einzelheiten für Sie bitte die Online-Zahlung zu machen?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
freundliche Grüße&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hi,&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have now received my membership card and payment request - can you please tell me the easiest way to make the payment from Great Britain?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I can pay be credit card, debit card or by online banking - is it best to do this by phone or can you provide me details for making the online payment please?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
best regards&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;name&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6) In return, they will send you an email like this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dear &amp;lt;name&amp;gt;, &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
thank you for your inquiry. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can pay your ADAC dues by credit card. We accept VISA and MasterCard. Please mail the return section below, for privacy purposes in a closed envelope, to: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC e.V. &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice MVZ/MZ2 &lt;br /&gt;
81014 München &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
or fax it to: +49 89 7676 4355 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
or e-mail to: beitrag.kreditkarte@adac.de &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As soon as we have your reply we will charge the amount specified to your credit card. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sincerely yours &lt;br /&gt;
________________________________________&lt;br /&gt;
Member no./Mitgliedsnummer: &amp;lt;membership number&amp;gt;	&amp;lt;unique reference&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
ADAC e.V., Mitgliederservice MVZ/MZ2, 81014 München, Deutschland &lt;br /&gt;
•	please print - &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please charge the amount below to my &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
( ) VISA ( ) MasterCard &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Amount: _____________________________ €, credit card no.: ______/______/______/______ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3-digit card verification no: ________________ Expiration date: _____/_____ &lt;br /&gt;
(in the card&#039;s signature field) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cardholder&#039;s name: _____________________________________________________________ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Date, cardholder&#039;s signature: ______________________________________________________ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club e. V. (ADAC e. V.) &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliederservice &lt;br /&gt;
Mitgliedschaft+Versicherungen &lt;br /&gt;
Tel.: 0 89 76 76 66 32 &lt;br /&gt;
Fax: 0 89 76 76 63 46 &lt;br /&gt;
http://www.adac.de/impressum &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7) Complete the form, scan it, then email it to the indicated email address and a day later you&#039;ll get a confirmation email saying it&#039;s all done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
SIMPLES!  Hope this has been of some use....all of the German I used was straight out of Google translate, no need to be multilingual.  I&#039;ve read in loads of places on t&#039;internet that ADAC have a number of excellent English speaking phone staff - just use the opening gambit &amp;quot;Sprichst du Englisch?&amp;quot; and you should be fine.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Additional_power_outlet_for_S1_dash&amp;diff=11510</id>
		<title>Additional power outlet for S1 dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Additional_power_outlet_for_S1_dash&amp;diff=11510"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T13:03:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category: S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Electrical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: DIY]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those of you with satnav or other electronic device stuck to the windscreen, the S1 standard location for the 12v power outlet is not particularly convenient. Luckily, there&#039;s a quick and easy way to install an additional outlet in the dash, where the S1 light panel has a dummy switch installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Check that the right-hand most &amp;quot;switch&amp;quot; in your light panel is a dummy.  It&#039;s black and doesn&#039;t do anything.  If it does something (Air-con in some non-uk cars, aftermarket start button), stop reading and go and have a chocolate hobnob and a cup of tea to contain your disappointment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. First job is to prise the dummy switch out. Remove the switch surround by sliding a non-metallic spatula into the gap between the plastic and the lower dash panel and lever down.  The bottom of the plastic surround should pop out of it&#039;s slot and allow you to withdraw it by pulling out and down.  You may need to finagle it around the steering column shroud to completely remove. The dummy switch has two retaining tangs that at normally oriented top and bottom. It&#039;s possible to get a very small flat-bladed screwdriver behind the switch flange and release one of the tangs, then holding it in position (to stop it snapping back in) do the same at the bottom.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105408169_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  The dummy switch is connected to an electrical connector in the dash.  This connector already has a switched live and an earth connection so no advanced vehicle electrical modification is needed.  You will need some method of fishing the connector out of the dash innards later - I used a bit of old wire with the end soldered into a hook shape which was then inserted through a spare &amp;quot;way&amp;quot; in the connector block.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105358597_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105424077_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105444031_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105456923_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Obtain a panel mount 12v power outlet - I got mine for about a fiver from amazon.  Measure the outside diameter of the barrel of the power outlet.  Mine was 28mm.  It came with wires attached.  I just soldered blade connectors that would fit into the dummy switch connector block onto the existing wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105321846_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Draw a 28mm diameter circle (or however big your power outlet diameter is) on a piece of paper and cut it out.  Then cut the &amp;quot;hole&amp;quot; in the paper out so you can tape it to the dash panel, over the square hole where the dummy switch was. It will work best if you offset the template to the right by about 1-2mm.  Don&#039;t go too far though otherwise the switch surround won&#039;t go back on.  Once it&#039;s taped into place, get your dremel (fast) or file (slow) out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105543034_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105613739_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_110013275_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Grind/file the dash plate out so that you have no metal showing through your paper template.  When you have done this and removed the template, you&#039;ll have a weird shaped hole that is round with square corners.  This is normal.  Hoover/wipe off all the aluminium filings/grindings before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111608247_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Fish out the electrical connector and hook your power outlet up to it.  The live wire from the power outlet (normally red) goes to the green and black wire in the connector.  The earth wire (normally black) goes to black.  Connect some accessory (I used a USB adaptor with an LED indicator) and turn on the ignition.  Your accessory should burst into life.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111800770_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8.  Unplug your accessory from the power outlet and push it fully home into the hole you&#039;ve made.  RECONNECT YOUR ACCESSORY AND RETEST.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111947952_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_112027191_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Refit the light switch surround and you&#039;re done.  Have a cup of tea and a celebratory chocolate hobnob.....&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_112054580_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Additional_power_outlet_for_S1_dash&amp;diff=11509</id>
		<title>Additional power outlet for S1 dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Additional_power_outlet_for_S1_dash&amp;diff=11509"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:56:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;For those of you with satnav or other electronic device stuck to the windscreen, the S1 standard location for the 12v power outlet is not particularly convenient. Luckily, there&#039;s a quick and easy way to install an additional outlet in the dash, where the S1 light panel has a dummy switch installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Check that the right-hand most &amp;quot;switch&amp;quot; in your light panel is a dummy.  It&#039;s black and doesn&#039;t do anything.  If it does something (Air-con in some non-uk cars, aftermarket start button), stop reading and go and have a chocolate hobnob and a cup of tea to contain your disappointment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. First job is to prise the dummy switch out. Remove the switch surround by sliding a non-metallic spatula into the gap between the plastic and the lower dash panel and lever down.  The bottom of the plastic surround should pop out of it&#039;s slot and allow you to withdraw it by pulling out and down.  You may need to finagle it around the steering column shroud to completely remove. The dummy switch has two retaining tangs that at normally oriented top and bottom. It&#039;s possible to get a very small flat-bladed screwdriver behind the switch flange and release one of the tangs, then holding it in position (to stop it snapping back in) do the same at the bottom.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105408169_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  The dummy switch is connected to an electrical connector in the dash.  This connector already has a switched live and an earth connection so no advanced vehicle electrical modification is needed.  You will need some method of fishing the connector out of the dash innards later - I used a bit of old wire with the end soldered into a hook shape which was then inserted through a spare &amp;quot;way&amp;quot; in the connector block.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105358597_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105424077_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105444031_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105456923_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Obtain a panel mount 12v power outlet - I got mine for about a fiver from amazon.  Measure the outside diameter of the barrel of the power outlet.  Mine was 28mm.  It came with wires attached.  I just soldered blade connectors that would fit into the dummy switch connector block onto the existing wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105321846_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Draw a 28mm diameter circle (or however big your power outlet diameter is) on a piece of paper and cut it out.  Then cut the &amp;quot;hole&amp;quot; in the paper out so you can tape it to the dash panel, over the square hole where the dummy switch was. It will work best if you offset the template to the right by about 1-2mm.  Don&#039;t go too far though otherwise the switch surround won&#039;t go back on.  Once it&#039;s taped into place, get your dremel (fast) or file (slow) out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105543034_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105613739_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_110013275_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Grind/file the dash plate out so that you have no metal showing through your paper template.  When you have done this and removed the template, you&#039;ll have a weird shaped hole that is round with square corners.  This is normal.  Hoover/wipe off all the aluminium filings/grindings before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111608247_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Fish out the electrical connector and hook your power outlet up to it.  The live wire from the power outlet (normally red) goes to the green and black wire in the connector.  The earth wire (normally black) goes to black.  Connect some accessory (I used a USB adaptor with an LED indicator) and turn on the ignition.  Your accessory should burst into life.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111800770_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8.  Unplug your accessory from the power outlet and push it fully home into the hole you&#039;ve made.  RECONNECT YOUR ACCESSORY AND RETEST.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111947952_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_112027191_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Refit the light switch surround and you&#039;re done.  Have a cup of tea and a celebratory chocolate hobnob.....&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_112054580_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Additional_power_outlet_for_S1_dash&amp;diff=11508</id>
		<title>Additional power outlet for S1 dash</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Additional_power_outlet_for_S1_dash&amp;diff=11508"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:52:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: Created page with &amp;quot;For those of you with satnav or other electronic device stuck to the windscreen, the S1 standard location for the 12v power outlet is not particularly convenient. luckily, the...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;For those of you with satnav or other electronic device stuck to the windscreen, the S1 standard location for the 12v power outlet is not particularly convenient. luckily, there&#039;s a quick and easy way to install an additional outlet in the dash, where the S1 light panel has a dummy switch installed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Check that the right-hand most &amp;quot;switch&amp;quot; in your light panel is a dummy.  It&#039;s black and doesn&#039;t do anything.  If it does something (Air-con in some non-uk cars, aftermarket start button), stop reading and go and have a chocolate hobnob and a cup of tea to contain your disappointment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. First job is to prise the dummy switch out. Remove the switch surround by sliding a non-metallic spatula into the gap between the plastic and the lower dash panel and lever down.  The bottom of the plastic surround should pop out of it&#039;s slot and allow you to withdraw it by pulling out and down.  You may need to finagle it around the steering column shroud to completely remove. The dummy switch has two retaining tangs that at normally oriented top and bottom. It&#039;s possible to get a very small flat-bladed screwdriver behind the switch flange and release one of the tangs, then holding it in position (to stop it snapping back in) do the same at the bottom.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105408169_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.  The dummy switch is connected to an electrical connector in the dash.  This connector already has a switched live and an earth connection so no advanced vehicle electrical modification is needed.  You will need some method of fishing the connector out of the dash innards later - I used a bit of old wire with the end soldered into a hook shape which was then inserted through a spare &amp;quot;way&amp;quot; in the connector block.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105358597_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105424077_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105444031_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105456923_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Obtain a panel mount 12v power outlet - I got mine for about a fiver from amazon.  Measure the outside diameter of the barrel of the power outlet.  Mine was 28mm.  It came with wires attached.  I just soldered blade connectors that would fit into the dummy switch connector block onto the existing wires.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105321846_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Draw a 28mm diameter circle on a piece of paper and cut it out.  Then cut the &amp;quot;hole&amp;quot; in the paper out so you can tape it to the dash panel, over the square hole where the dummy switch was. It will work best if you offset the template to the right by about 1-2mm.  Don&#039;t go too far though otherwise the switch surround won&#039;t go back on.  Once it&#039;s taped into place, get your dremel (fast) or file (slow) out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_105543034_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_105613739_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_110013275_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Grind/file the dash plate out so that you have no metal showing through your paper template.  When you have done this and removed the template, you&#039;ll have a weird shaped hole that is round with square corners.  This is normal.  Hoover/wipe off all the aluminium filings/grindings before continuing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111608247_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Fish out the electrical connector and hook your power outlet up to it.  The live wire from the power outlet (normally red) goes to the green and black wire in the connector.  The earth wire (normally black) goes to black.  Connect some accessory (I used a USB adaptor with an LED indicator) and turn on the ignition.  Your accessory should burst into life.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111800770_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8.  Unplug your accessory from the power outlet and push it fully home into the hole you&#039;ve made.  RECONNECT YOUR ACCESSORY AND RETEST.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_111947952_iOS.jpg|480px]] [[Image:20140618_112027191_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Refit the light switch surround and you&#039;re done.  Have a cup of tea and a celebratory chocolate hobnob.....&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:20140618_112054580_iOS.jpg|480px]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_112054580_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11507</id>
		<title>File:20140618 112054580 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_112054580_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11507"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:36:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_112027191_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11506</id>
		<title>File:20140618 112027191 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_112027191_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11506"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:35:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_111947952_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11505</id>
		<title>File:20140618 111947952 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_111947952_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11505"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:35:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_111800770_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11504</id>
		<title>File:20140618 111800770 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_111800770_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11504"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:35:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_111608247_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11503</id>
		<title>File:20140618 111608247 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_111608247_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11503"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:35:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_110013275_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11502</id>
		<title>File:20140618 110013275 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_110013275_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11502"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:34:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105613739_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11501</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105613739 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105613739_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11501"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:34:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105543034_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11500</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105543034 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105543034_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11500"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:34:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105456923_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11499</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105456923 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105456923_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11499"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:33:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105444031_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11498</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105444031 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105444031_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11498"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:33:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105424077_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11497</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105424077 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105424077_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11497"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:33:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105408169_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11496</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105408169 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105408169_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11496"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:32:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105358597_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11495</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105358597 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105358597_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11495"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:32:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105321846_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11494</id>
		<title>File:20140618 105321846 iOS.jpg</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:20140618_105321846_iOS.jpg&amp;diff=11494"/>
		<updated>2014-06-18T12:31:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Elise_weight&amp;diff=10662</id>
		<title>Elise weight</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Elise_weight&amp;diff=10662"/>
		<updated>2012-11-16T15:01:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: /* Elise weights from SELOC members */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Elise weights from Lotus==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Standard car weights from Lotus, take with salt. User submitted car weights are located further down the page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Model !! Weight (kg) !! Provenance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | S1&lt;br /&gt;
| 690&lt;br /&gt;
| 1996 brochure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 713 (inc full fuel tank)&lt;br /&gt;
| 1997 manual&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 755&lt;br /&gt;
| 1998 manual&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | S1 111S&lt;br /&gt;
| 770&lt;br /&gt;
| brochure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 770&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 135&lt;br /&gt;
| 730&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 160&lt;br /&gt;
| 715&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 190&lt;br /&gt;
| 670&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | 340R&lt;br /&gt;
| 675&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 701&lt;br /&gt;
| Service Manual 340R Supplement&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Expose&lt;br /&gt;
| 545&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 Exige&lt;br /&gt;
| 780&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| VX220&lt;br /&gt;
| 875&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | S2&lt;br /&gt;
| 750&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 750-830&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 135&lt;br /&gt;
| 750&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | S2 111S&lt;br /&gt;
| 772 unladen, 881 in service&lt;br /&gt;
| V5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| in running order 888 min, 925 max&lt;br /&gt;
| EEC Certificate of Conformity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 780 &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 111R &lt;br /&gt;
| 860, 916 with options &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 Exige &lt;br /&gt;
| 875, 916 with options &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Elise weights from SELOC members==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weights entered from SELOC Members, take with salt. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+ Sortable table&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Name &lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Car&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Weight&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; class=&amp;quot;unsortable&amp;quot; | Misc Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|Atom 300&lt;br /&gt;
|620kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, tool kit, dead flies&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/deeppurpleelise deeppurpleelise]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|700kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 1 gallon fuel, minus carpets, rear screen &amp;amp; hoop&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Lanber Lanber]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|725kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Oct 11, DVLA weighbridge, Empty tank, lightwight flywheel, light exhoust, EP4-2-1, CRP, EP alucentered brake discs, no radio &amp;amp; speakers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/revolt Revolt ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|726kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Dry weight (no fuel) measured at EMERALD, weight distribution: front/back: 45/55&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/worldwidewebs worldwidewebs]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|729kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Oct 26, Oulton Park weighbridge, 3/4 full tank, few bits in the boot, harness bar, harness, Exige motorsport seat, victory alloys&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/wevster wevster]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1997)&lt;br /&gt;
|730kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 25l fuel, MMC brakes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/gt111 gt111]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|740kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 26l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/rwhitworth rwhitworth (Russell Whitworth) ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (Steve Williams Duratec conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|740kg&lt;br /&gt;
|16 litres of fuel, Eliseparts hard top, harness bar and harnesses (plus seatbelts), S160 seats, alloy radiator, Raceline exhaust&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Joel Joel]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (2000)&lt;br /&gt;
|745kg&lt;br /&gt;
|late S1 with steel uprights and brakes, 421-decat-Raceline exhaust, harness bar and harnesses, Speedline mag wheels, no carpets or radio, weighed on Longacre corner scales with hardtop fitted and 34L fuel, 20/02/10.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/yod yod ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|746kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, full tank of fuel, some light bits (approx 11kg saved)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/danmclean DanMcLean]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2002)&lt;br /&gt;
|749kg&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=210370&amp;amp;page=1#pid3853339 Regional weigh-in and power run]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Thorburn Thorburn]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1998)&lt;br /&gt;
|754.5kg&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=317125&amp;amp;page=3#pid5710392 Corner weighted during geo at Hofmanns]&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;Early 1998 S1, changed to steel uprights and brakes, boot bag, alloy engine cover, alloy radiator, Janspeed exhaust, Nitron Street Series suspension, Pro-bax S2 Exige Sports Seats, harness bar and harnesses, 28L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/x27EVE x27EVE]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|755kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 29l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|760kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|760kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/esprit Esprit]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Exige (Non-Aircon)&lt;br /&gt;
|764kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Corner Scales. Factory Standard with sports interior, Full Fluids, 33L Fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/ Martin R]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport 190&lt;br /&gt;
|767kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Mallory Park 2/3 full tank of fuel, soft top on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/mellowmatt mellowmatt]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|773kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 34l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Trixster Trixster]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise S (120Bhp K Series)&lt;br /&gt;
|775kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Dec 09 @ SPS Automotive, Larini, Nitrons, 20L fuel, full carpet set, 4 speakers, leccy windows etc&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|780kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, bottles of water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/felixj felixj]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|780kg&lt;br /&gt;
|May 11, public weigh bridge, nearly empty tank, manual windows, harnessbar, no a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/tertius tertius]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S (2003)&lt;br /&gt;
|785kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 2010: Corner scales at Hoffmans; no a/c; manual windows; 20L fuel; 240R wheels; carbon seats; harness bar and harnesses&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/stifler Stifler]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Racetech&lt;br /&gt;
|787kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 20l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|800kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, Elec windows, no a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/Martyn111S Martyn111S]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|808kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hoffmans, during corner weighting + 1/2/ tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/ Dr H]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2001 with SC Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|816kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Corner weighting + 18 litres of fuel and abut 5kg worth of stuff in the boot. OZ rims, harness bar, probax seats carpets etc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/muu muu]&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 Elise 135R (Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|816.5kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Feb 12, Corner Weight at TDi Plc, 22L fuel, Tullett Exhaust, all factory trim in place, OZ wheel with R888, Factory hardtop and 3.9kg soft-top stashed behind the seats. harness bar &amp;amp; harnesses&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|820kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, manual windows, a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/loafingwafu Loafing Wafu ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2002 with Sincs SC Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|823kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hofmann&#039;s corner weighting Aug 2010. 15L fuel, OZ rims, harness bar, probax motorsport seats, carpets, small sub, gubbins in boot&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/derbyphil derbyphil]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise S (Toyota 134bhp)&lt;br /&gt;
|840kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/yod yod]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R Touring (2005)&lt;br /&gt;
|868kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hofmann&#039;s during corner weighting. 20L fuel, 2x Reverie Mulsanne C seats, harnesses+bar, aircon&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jpc jpc]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R (Sport Racer)&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel and hardtop fitted&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Unknown fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, harness bar&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/uppitysi uppitysi]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige 190&lt;br /&gt;
|900kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/FinStien FinStien]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige 190 (Katana S/C fitted)&lt;br /&gt;
|908kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1.5bars fuel on dash&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige S&lt;br /&gt;
|920kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, boot full of gubbins&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mr+Wiki Mr Wiki]&lt;br /&gt;
|Europa S&lt;br /&gt;
|963kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Elise chassis Europa, Lotus performance pack (225bhp)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/flying%20banana flying banana]&lt;br /&gt;
|1999 S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|776kg&lt;br /&gt;
|During corner weighting at Hofmanns. 3/4 of a tank. Lots of carpet, sound deadening, subwoofer, bigger speakers and with the Lotus &amp;quot;Sport&amp;quot; boat anchor exhaust fitted&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING - [http://www.salt.gov.uk/salt_and_your_health.html too much salt is bad for you]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==References==&lt;br /&gt;
[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=350886 SELOC Forums » SELOC Chat » The weight of an elise myth buster thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:S2]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Elise_weight&amp;diff=10661</id>
		<title>Elise weight</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Elise_weight&amp;diff=10661"/>
		<updated>2012-11-16T15:00:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: /* Elise weights from SELOC members */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Elise weights from Lotus==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Standard car weights from Lotus, take with salt. User submitted car weights are located further down the page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Model !! Weight (kg) !! Provenance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | S1&lt;br /&gt;
| 690&lt;br /&gt;
| 1996 brochure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 713 (inc full fuel tank)&lt;br /&gt;
| 1997 manual&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 755&lt;br /&gt;
| 1998 manual&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | S1 111S&lt;br /&gt;
| 770&lt;br /&gt;
| brochure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 770&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 135&lt;br /&gt;
| 730&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 160&lt;br /&gt;
| 715&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 190&lt;br /&gt;
| 670&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | 340R&lt;br /&gt;
| 675&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 701&lt;br /&gt;
| Service Manual 340R Supplement&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Expose&lt;br /&gt;
| 545&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 Exige&lt;br /&gt;
| 780&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| VX220&lt;br /&gt;
| 875&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | S2&lt;br /&gt;
| 750&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 750-830&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 135&lt;br /&gt;
| 750&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | S2 111S&lt;br /&gt;
| 772 unladen, 881 in service&lt;br /&gt;
| V5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| in running order 888 min, 925 max&lt;br /&gt;
| EEC Certificate of Conformity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 780 &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 111R &lt;br /&gt;
| 860, 916 with options &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 Exige &lt;br /&gt;
| 875, 916 with options &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Elise weights from SELOC members==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weights entered from SELOC Members, take with salt. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+ Sortable table&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Name &lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Car&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Weight&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; class=&amp;quot;unsortable&amp;quot; | Misc Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|Atom 300&lt;br /&gt;
|620kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, tool kit, dead flies&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/deeppurpleelise deeppurpleelise]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|700kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 1 gallon fuel, minus carpets, rear screen &amp;amp; hoop&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Lanber Lanber]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|725kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Oct 11, DVLA weighbridge, Empty tank, lightwight flywheel, light exhoust, EP4-2-1, CRP, EP alucentered brake discs, no radio &amp;amp; speakers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/revolt Revolt ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|726kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Dry weight (no fuel) measured at EMERALD, weight distribution: front/back: 45/55&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/worldwidewebs worldwidewebs]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|729kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Oct 26, Oulton Park weighbridge, 3/4 full tank, few bits in the boot, harness bar, harness, Exige motorsport seat, victory alloys&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/wevster wevster]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1997)&lt;br /&gt;
|730kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 25l fuel, MMC brakes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/gt111 gt111]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|740kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 26l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/rwhitworth rwhitworth (Russell Whitworth) ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (Steve Williams Duratec conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|740kg&lt;br /&gt;
|16 litres of fuel, Eliseparts hard top, harness bar and harnesses (plus seatbelts), S160 seats, alloy radiator, Raceline exhaust&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Joel Joel]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (2000)&lt;br /&gt;
|745kg&lt;br /&gt;
|late S1 with steel uprights and brakes, 421-decat-Raceline exhaust, harness bar and harnesses, Speedline mag wheels, no carpets or radio, weighed on Longacre corner scales with hardtop fitted and 34L fuel, 20/02/10.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/yod yod ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|746kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, full tank of fuel, some light bits (approx 11kg saved)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/danmclean DanMcLean]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2002)&lt;br /&gt;
|749kg&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=210370&amp;amp;page=1#pid3853339 Regional weigh-in and power run]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Thorburn Thorburn]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1998)&lt;br /&gt;
|754.5kg&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=317125&amp;amp;page=3#pid5710392 Corner weighted during geo at Hofmanns]&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;Early 1998 S1, changed to steel uprights and brakes, boot bag, alloy engine cover, alloy radiator, Janspeed exhaust, Nitron Street Series suspension, Pro-bax S2 Exige Sports Seats, harness bar and harnesses, 28L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/x27EVE x27EVE]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|755kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 29l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|760kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|760kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/esprit Esprit]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Exige (Non-Aircon)&lt;br /&gt;
|764kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Corner Scales. Factory Standard with sports interior, Full Fluids, 33L Fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/ Martin R]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport 190&lt;br /&gt;
|767kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Mallory Park 2/3 full tank of fuel, soft top on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/mellowmatt mellowmatt]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|773kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 34l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Trixster Trixster]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise S (120Bhp K Series)&lt;br /&gt;
|775kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Dec 09 @ SPS Automotive, Larini, Nitrons, 20L fuel, full carpet set, 4 speakers, leccy windows etc&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|780kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, bottles of water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/felixj felixj]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|780kg&lt;br /&gt;
|May 11, public weigh bridge, nearly empty tank, manual windows, harnessbar, no a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/tertius tertius]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S (2003)&lt;br /&gt;
|785kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 2010: Corner scales at Hoffmans; no a/c; manual windows; 20L fuel; 240R wheels; carbon seats; harness bar and harnesses&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/stifler Stifler]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Racetech&lt;br /&gt;
|787kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 20l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|800kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, Elec windows, no a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/Martyn111S Martyn111S]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|808kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hoffmans, during corner weighting + 1/2/ tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/ Dr H]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2001 with SC Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|816kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Corner weighting + 18 litres of fuel and abut 5kg worth of stuff in the boot. OZ rims, harness bar, probax seats carpets etc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/muu muu]&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 Elise 135R (Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|816.5kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Feb 12, Corner Weight at TDi Plc, 22L fuel, Tullett Exhaust, all factory trim in place, OZ wheel with R888, Factory hardtop and 3.9kg soft-top stashed behind the seats. harness bar &amp;amp; harnesses&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|820kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, manual windows, a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/loafingwafu Loafing Wafu ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2002 with Sincs SC Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|823kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hofmann&#039;s corner weighting Aug 2010. 15L fuel, OZ rims, harness bar, probax motorsport seats, carpets, small sub, gubbins in boot&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/derbyphil derbyphil]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise S (Toyota 134bhp)&lt;br /&gt;
|840kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/yod yod]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R Touring (2005)&lt;br /&gt;
|868kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hofmann&#039;s during corner weighting. 20L fuel, 2x Reverie Mulsanne C seats, harnesses+bar, aircon&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jpc jpc]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R (Sport Racer)&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel and hardtop fitted&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Unknown fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, harness bar&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/uppitysi uppitysi]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige 190&lt;br /&gt;
|900kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/FinStien FinStien]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige 190 (Katana S/C fitted)&lt;br /&gt;
|908kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1.5bars fuel on dash&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige S&lt;br /&gt;
|920kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, boot full of gubbins&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mr+Wiki Mr Wiki]&lt;br /&gt;
|Europa S&lt;br /&gt;
|963kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Elise chassis Europa, Lotus performance pack (225bhp)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/flying%20banana flying banana]&lt;br /&gt;
|1999 S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|776kg&lt;br /&gt;
|During corner weighting at Hofmanns. Lots of carpet, sound deadening, subwoofer, bigger speakers and with the Lotus &amp;quot;Sport&amp;quot; boat anchor exhaust fitted&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING - [http://www.salt.gov.uk/salt_and_your_health.html too much salt is bad for you]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==References==&lt;br /&gt;
[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=350886 SELOC Forums » SELOC Chat » The weight of an elise myth buster thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:S2]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Elise_weight&amp;diff=10660</id>
		<title>Elise weight</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Elise_weight&amp;diff=10660"/>
		<updated>2012-11-16T14:59:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: /* Elise weights from SELOC members */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Elise weights from Lotus==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Standard car weights from Lotus, take with salt. User submitted car weights are located further down the page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Model !! Weight (kg) !! Provenance&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | S1&lt;br /&gt;
| 690&lt;br /&gt;
| 1996 brochure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 713 (inc full fuel tank)&lt;br /&gt;
| 1997 manual&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 755&lt;br /&gt;
| 1998 manual&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | S1 111S&lt;br /&gt;
| 770&lt;br /&gt;
| brochure&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 770&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 135&lt;br /&gt;
| 730&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 160&lt;br /&gt;
| 715&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 190&lt;br /&gt;
| 670&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | 340R&lt;br /&gt;
| 675&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 701&lt;br /&gt;
| Service Manual 340R Supplement&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| Expose&lt;br /&gt;
| 545&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S1 Exige&lt;br /&gt;
| 780&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| VX220&lt;br /&gt;
| 875&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; | S2&lt;br /&gt;
| 750&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 750-830&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 135&lt;br /&gt;
| 750&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| rowspan=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot; | S2 111S&lt;br /&gt;
| 772 unladen, 881 in service&lt;br /&gt;
| V5&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| in running order 888 min, 925 max&lt;br /&gt;
| EEC Certificate of Conformity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| 780 &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=24 Elise - The Official Story]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 111R &lt;br /&gt;
| 860, 916 with options &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 Exige &lt;br /&gt;
| 875, 916 with options &lt;br /&gt;
| [http://www.coteriepress.com/CP_ProductDetail_01.php?Manufacturer=Lotus&amp;amp;Productid=2 The Lotus Book]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Elise weights from SELOC members==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weights entered from SELOC Members, take with salt. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable sortable&amp;quot; border=&amp;quot;2&amp;quot; cellpadding=&amp;quot;3&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+ Sortable table&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Name &lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Car&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; | Weight&lt;br /&gt;
! scope=&amp;quot;col&amp;quot; class=&amp;quot;unsortable&amp;quot; | Misc Info&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|Atom 300&lt;br /&gt;
|620kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, tool kit, dead flies&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/deeppurpleelise deeppurpleelise]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|700kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 1 gallon fuel, minus carpets, rear screen &amp;amp; hoop&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Lanber Lanber]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|725kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Oct 11, DVLA weighbridge, Empty tank, lightwight flywheel, light exhoust, EP4-2-1, CRP, EP alucentered brake discs, no radio &amp;amp; speakers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/revolt Revolt ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|726kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Dry weight (no fuel) measured at EMERALD, weight distribution: front/back: 45/55&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/worldwidewebs worldwidewebs]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|729kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Oct 26, Oulton Park weighbridge, 3/4 full tank, few bits in the boot, harness bar, harness, Exige motorsport seat, victory alloys&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/wevster wevster]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1997)&lt;br /&gt;
|730kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 25l fuel, MMC brakes&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/gt111 gt111]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|740kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 26l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/rwhitworth rwhitworth (Russell Whitworth) ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (Steve Williams Duratec conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|740kg&lt;br /&gt;
|16 litres of fuel, Eliseparts hard top, harness bar and harnesses (plus seatbelts), S160 seats, alloy radiator, Raceline exhaust&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Joel Joel]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (2000)&lt;br /&gt;
|745kg&lt;br /&gt;
|late S1 with steel uprights and brakes, 421-decat-Raceline exhaust, harness bar and harnesses, Speedline mag wheels, no carpets or radio, weighed on Longacre corner scales with hardtop fitted and 34L fuel, 20/02/10.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/yod yod ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1999)&lt;br /&gt;
|746kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, full tank of fuel, some light bits (approx 11kg saved)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/danmclean DanMcLean]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2002)&lt;br /&gt;
|749kg&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=210370&amp;amp;page=1#pid3853339 Regional weigh-in and power run]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Thorburn Thorburn]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise (1998)&lt;br /&gt;
|754.5kg&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=317125&amp;amp;page=3#pid5710392 Corner weighted during geo at Hofmanns]&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;Early 1998 S1, changed to steel uprights and brakes, boot bag, alloy engine cover, alloy radiator, Janspeed exhaust, Nitron Street Series suspension, Pro-bax S2 Exige Sports Seats, harness bar and harnesses, 28L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/x27EVE x27EVE]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|755kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 29l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|760kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise&lt;br /&gt;
|760kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/esprit Esprit]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Exige (Non-Aircon)&lt;br /&gt;
|764kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Corner Scales. Factory Standard with sports interior, Full Fluids, 33L Fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/ Martin R]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport 190&lt;br /&gt;
|767kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Mallory Park 2/3 full tank of fuel, soft top on.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/mellowmatt mellowmatt]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|773kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 34l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Trixster Trixster]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise S (120Bhp K Series)&lt;br /&gt;
|775kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Dec 09 @ SPS Automotive, Larini, Nitrons, 20L fuel, full carpet set, 4 speakers, leccy windows etc&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S1 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|780kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, bottles of water&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/felixj felixj]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|780kg&lt;br /&gt;
|May 11, public weigh bridge, nearly empty tank, manual windows, harnessbar, no a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/tertius tertius]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S (2003)&lt;br /&gt;
|785kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 2010: Corner scales at Hoffmans; no a/c; manual windows; 20L fuel; 240R wheels; carbon seats; harness bar and harnesses&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/stifler Stifler]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Racetech&lt;br /&gt;
|787kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 20l fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|800kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, Elec windows, no a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/Martyn111S Martyn111S]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|808kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hoffmans, during corner weighting + 1/2/ tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/ Dr H]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2001 with SC Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|816kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Corner weighting + 18 litres of fuel and abut 5kg worth of stuff in the boot. OZ rims, harness bar, probax seats carpets etc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/muu muu]&lt;br /&gt;
| S2 Elise 135R (Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|816.5kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Feb 12, Corner Weight at TDi Plc, 22L fuel, Tullett Exhaust, all factory trim in place, OZ wheel with R888, Factory hardtop and 3.9kg soft-top stashed behind the seats. harness bar &amp;amp; harnesses&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111S&lt;br /&gt;
|820kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, manual windows, a/c&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/loafingwafu Loafing Wafu ]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise Sport Tourer (2002 with Sincs SC Honda Conversion)&lt;br /&gt;
|823kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hofmann&#039;s corner weighting Aug 2010. 15L fuel, OZ rims, harness bar, probax motorsport seats, carpets, small sub, gubbins in boot&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/derbyphil derbyphil]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise S (Toyota 134bhp)&lt;br /&gt;
|840kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/yod yod]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R Touring (2005)&lt;br /&gt;
|868kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Hofmann&#039;s during corner weighting. 20L fuel, 2x Reverie Mulsanne C seats, harnesses+bar, aircon&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jpc jpc]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R (Sport Racer)&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel and hardtop fitted&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Unknown fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Elise 111R&lt;br /&gt;
|880kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, harness bar&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/uppitysi uppitysi]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige 190&lt;br /&gt;
|900kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1/2 tank fuel&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/FinStien FinStien]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige 190 (Katana S/C fitted)&lt;br /&gt;
|908kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Cadwell Park 2010, 1.5bars fuel on dash&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]&lt;br /&gt;
|S2 Exige S&lt;br /&gt;
|920kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, boot full of gubbins&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mr+Wiki Mr Wiki]&lt;br /&gt;
|Europa S&lt;br /&gt;
|963kg&lt;br /&gt;
|Elise chassis Europa, Lotus performance pack (225bhp)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/flying%20banana flying banana]&lt;br /&gt;
|1999 S1 111s&lt;br /&gt;
|976kg&lt;br /&gt;
|During corner weighting at Hofmanns. Lots of carpet, sound deadening, subwoofer, bigger speakers and with the Lotus &amp;quot;Sport&amp;quot; boat anchor exhaust fitted&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WARNING - [http://www.salt.gov.uk/salt_and_your_health.html too much salt is bad for you]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==References==&lt;br /&gt;
[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=350886 SELOC Forums » SELOC Chat » The weight of an elise myth buster thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:S2]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=SELOC_members_skill_set&amp;diff=10623</id>
		<title>SELOC members skill set</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=SELOC_members_skill_set&amp;diff=10623"/>
		<updated>2012-11-13T11:23:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Fancy helping SELOC.  Please add your name below and what you&#039;re happy to help with.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| border=&amp;quot;1&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Name !! Skill !! Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Martin%20Dower Martin Dower]&lt;br /&gt;
 || CEO, Connected - Internet Technology Company. Develop and deploy personalised web assets (think Amazon/Ebay) that use profiling, behavioural targeting &amp;amp; A/B testing&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://uk.linkedin.com/in/dower Linked In]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jjprestidge jjprestidge]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Penniless mature student failure masquerading as Professor of Coffee at Bath Polytechnic. Wine fantisist. Encyclopaedic knowledge of Everything Expensive gleaned from years of googling.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/acousticjim acousticjim]&lt;br /&gt;
 || White van driving urban guerilla video cowboy. Poor sense of judgment. Enjoys aggravating members of elected local bodies.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/moose moose]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Middle-aged Aston driving ex-CFO. Has expensive tastes in dresses. Likes sweets &amp;amp; puppies.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stephanie%20Plum Stephanie Plum] &lt;br /&gt;
|| I certainly wouldn&#039;t want to do anything full time, but am happy to volunteer for bits of it. Maybe the database management bit, email enquiries and/or membership pack post outs.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/MrD MrD]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Argumentative computer-building God Botherer and Professional Car Tuner. Expert on Germanic 0-100 times, avoids corners. Buys women over the internet, lusts after Jackie Degg.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mr%20Wiki Mr Wiki]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Anything need to be done in the Techwiki or local events / meets&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://uk.linkedin.com/pub/gareth-shepherd/19/450/194 Linked In]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Marcus Marcus]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Happy to help out with routes and creating TomTom files.  City of London Mon - Fri if that is of any use.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/eddie eddie]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Hirsute gossiping IT geek. Knows everything, buys old houses.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/ReVolt ReVolt]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Web Design, SEO, Graphics and Photography, Norwich.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/gibbo gibbo]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Maker (sometimes), buyer (sometimes), distributor and eater of cake. Woman botherer and talking bollocks a speciality&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/nick nick]&lt;br /&gt;
 || International Head of Everything for Hermes Parcelnet (UK &amp;amp; European parcel delivery)&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=22399892 Linked In]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Greg Greg]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Alcoholic drug-abusing wife swapper, coming soon to a hedge near you.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/beak beak]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Foreign, changes cars more often than underwear. Dislikes trees. Post whore.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Ozzy_Uk Ozzy_Uk]&lt;br /&gt;
 || IT - Specifically Apple Macs, Xsan, PCs, Hardware &amp;amp; Software, Key skills in AV, specifically Video Calibration and Control system programming for Crestron. Side hobbies include saving the world with crazy ideas for eco-friendly performance cars, and generally trying to take on too many projects at any one time, including having a familly, building a house, doing a v8 lotus conversion, and trying to make an eco-friendly-ish performance car.&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=4146669 Linked In]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Geordie Geordie]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Web developer - Server and client side development, ASP.NET &amp;amp; MVC framework, security testing and resilience, SEO, MS Team foundation server admin, IIS config &amp;amp; webserver management etc etc&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://uk.linkedin.com/in/dandbowman Linked In]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/R6RYM R6RYM]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Head of Bullion Trading in Luxembourg. Theatre stage management/light design-programming, Cricket/rugby coaching, Master Swordsman&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Mike-Bracknell Mike-Bracknell]&lt;br /&gt;
 || IT Director of a small, but successful IT Support &amp;amp; Web Design company with a USP of bringing Enterprise-level IT to the SME market and doing it without the jargon.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Darrenlts Darrenlts]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Expelled from the UK for being so out of touch and communist that even Joe Stalin said &#039;Jesus, that&#039;s a bit harsh!&#039; Currently putting the world to rights in my head and alienating all others. Heroes - Gordon Brown, Fidel Castro, General Noriega, Pol Pot, Mick Hucknall.&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/SubZero SubZero]&lt;br /&gt;
 || IT Servicedesk Supervisor &amp;amp; Senior Technician for Teesside Uni - Jack of all trades.  Primarily web design against my will (HTML, CSS, JS and PHP), and script tweaker but also computer graphic design (Website drafts, logos, images and banners).  Build, fix, maintain PCs &amp;amp; peripherals, Audio-Visual kit, Health &amp;amp; Safety Assessor, Electrical Safety Assessor (PAT), Procurement Officer etc. Massive delusional bullshitter&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Pinkie Pinkie]&lt;br /&gt;
 || AutoCAD Designer (Computer Aided Design Specialist): Architectural Drawings &amp;amp; Planning Advice for extensions and building alterations. 2D &amp;amp; 3D Floor Plans, Elevations &amp;amp; Visuals provided for Architectural purposes; Planning applications, Estate Agents, Interior Designers, Air Con Engineers etc. 14 years experience, so drop me a line and I&#039;ll try and help! :) &lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jont- jont-]&lt;br /&gt;
  || Embedded software engineer. Encyclopedic knowledge of the best driving roads in southern England and most of Wales&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/sho sho]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Random sentence generator, purveyor of slanty sex toys&lt;br /&gt;
 || Linked In&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/rich rich]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Website stuff, FEA &amp;amp; CFD (ANSYS)&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://uk.linkedin.com/in/mrrichardmitchell LinkedIn]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/twink twink]&lt;br /&gt;
 || Video editor and After Effects diddler, past lives include B2B marketing (mostly vehicle finance), 13 years of product management &amp;amp; NPD, project management (successfully bluffed my way through leading the integration of HSBC Vehicle Finance into Lex despite not understanding the IT and having no proper PM training) and accountancy but I don&#039;t like to talk about that&lt;br /&gt;
 || [http://www.linkedin.com/in/nickaddison LinkedIn]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/LivinLaVidaLotus LivinLaVidaLotus]&lt;br /&gt;
 || All things Internet, web hosting, cloud hosting, domains, SSL certificates, un-managed server hosting, leased lines, fully managed hosting - including LAMP application scaling consultancy.&lt;br /&gt;
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[[Category:Misc]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9531</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9531"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T13:59:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category: S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Brakes]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: DIY]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per clutch pedal above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Take the closure plate off and store the thick spacer bearing, shims, pedal and thrust washer to one side for final assembly later.  Remove the shaft fixing screw and remove the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer and shim stack then the bushed pedal, then another shim stack, then the second thrust washer into the aperture so that there is little or no side-to-side movement of the pedal.  You will find it virtually impossible to totally eradicate this movement as space is tight and it takes some finessing to get the shims and thrust washers aligned when inserting the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step 30b for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
**I used around 0.2mm of shim either side of the pedal for both of mine, as a guideline&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle pedal with a dab of LM grease between each washer, shim and spacer to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_60.JPG|Pedal Box reassembled]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_61.JPG|Overview of pedal assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_62.JPG|Brake pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_63.JPG|Clutch pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You&#039;re using the standard Lotus arangement=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer, then the bushed pedal, then the second thrust washer into the aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step the above for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the throttle pedal pivot bearing with flange to the left when looking at the front of the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit a thrust washer then the bushed throttle pedal, then the second pivot bearing spacer (oriented with flange adjacent to pedal) with a dab of LM grease between each component to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Putting it all back together again====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  &#039;&#039;&#039;When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit switches and electrical connections&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Stack unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  &#039;&#039;&#039;This is important&#039;&#039;&#039; – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Go for a test drive – carefully!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====What to do if your car swallows the clutch master cylinder dust boot…====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bloody thing fell off and directly into the gaping maw of the blower unit.  I used this contraption to retrieve it, and here’s the proof :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_65.JPG|Duct tape to the rescue!]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_64.JPG|The offending dust boot, rescued from the blower unit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9530</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9530"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T13:28:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category: S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Brakes]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: DIY]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per clutch pedal above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Take the closure plate off and store the thick spacer bearing, shims, pedal and thrust washer to one side for final assembly later.  Remove the shaft fixing screw and remove the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer and shim stack then the bushed pedal, then another shim stack, then the second thrust washer into the aperture so that there is little or no side-to-side movement of the pedal.  You will find it virtually impossible to totally eradicate this movement as space is tight and it takes some finessing to get the shims and thrust washers aligned when inserting the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step 30b for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
**I used around 0.2mm of shim either side of the pedal for both of mine, as a guideline&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle pedal with a dab of LM grease between each washer, shim and spacer to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_60.JPG|Pedal Box reassembled]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_61.JPG|Overview of pedal assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_62.JPG|Brake pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_63.JPG|Clutch pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You&#039;re using the standard Lotus arangement=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer, then the bushed pedal, then the second thrust washer into the aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step the above for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the throttle pedal pivot bearing with flange to the left when looking at the front of the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit a thrust washer then the bushed throttle pedal, then the second pivot bearing spacer (oriented with flange adjacent to pedal) with a dab of LM grease between each component to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Putting it all back together again====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  &#039;&#039;&#039;When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit switches and electrical connections&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Stack unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  &#039;&#039;&#039;This is important&#039;&#039;&#039; – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Go for a test drive – carefully!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====What to do if your car swallows the clutch master cylinder dust boot…====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bloody thing fell off and directly into the gaping maw of the blower unit.  I used this contraption to retrieve it, and here’s the proof :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_65.JPG|Duct tape to the rescue!]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_64.JPG|The offending dust boot, rescued from the blower unit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9529</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9529"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T13:27:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category: S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Brakes]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per clutch pedal above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Take the closure plate off and store the thick spacer bearing, shims, pedal and thrust washer to one side for final assembly later.  Remove the shaft fixing screw and remove the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer and shim stack then the bushed pedal, then another shim stack, then the second thrust washer into the aperture so that there is little or no side-to-side movement of the pedal.  You will find it virtually impossible to totally eradicate this movement as space is tight and it takes some finessing to get the shims and thrust washers aligned when inserting the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step 30b for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
**I used around 0.2mm of shim either side of the pedal for both of mine, as a guideline&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle pedal with a dab of LM grease between each washer, shim and spacer to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_60.JPG|Pedal Box reassembled]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_61.JPG|Overview of pedal assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_62.JPG|Brake pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_63.JPG|Clutch pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You&#039;re using the standard Lotus arangement=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer, then the bushed pedal, then the second thrust washer into the aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step the above for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the throttle pedal pivot bearing with flange to the left when looking at the front of the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit a thrust washer then the bushed throttle pedal, then the second pivot bearing spacer (oriented with flange adjacent to pedal) with a dab of LM grease between each component to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Putting it all back together again====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  &#039;&#039;&#039;When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit switches and electrical connections&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Stack unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  &#039;&#039;&#039;This is important&#039;&#039;&#039; – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Go for a test drive – carefully!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====What to do if your car swallows the clutch master cylinder dust boot…====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bloody thing fell off and directly into the gaping maw of the blower unit.  I used this contraption to retrieve it, and here’s the proof :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_65.JPG|Duct tape to the rescue!]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_64.JPG|The offending dust boot, rescued from the blower unit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9528</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9528"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T13:26:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[Category: Elise S1]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category: Brakes]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per clutch pedal above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Take the closure plate off and store the thick spacer bearing, shims, pedal and thrust washer to one side for final assembly later.  Remove the shaft fixing screw and remove the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer and shim stack then the bushed pedal, then another shim stack, then the second thrust washer into the aperture so that there is little or no side-to-side movement of the pedal.  You will find it virtually impossible to totally eradicate this movement as space is tight and it takes some finessing to get the shims and thrust washers aligned when inserting the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step 30b for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
**I used around 0.2mm of shim either side of the pedal for both of mine, as a guideline&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle pedal with a dab of LM grease between each washer, shim and spacer to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_60.JPG|Pedal Box reassembled]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_61.JPG|Overview of pedal assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_62.JPG|Brake pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_63.JPG|Clutch pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You&#039;re using the standard Lotus arangement=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer, then the bushed pedal, then the second thrust washer into the aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step the above for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the throttle pedal pivot bearing with flange to the left when looking at the front of the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit a thrust washer then the bushed throttle pedal, then the second pivot bearing spacer (oriented with flange adjacent to pedal) with a dab of LM grease between each component to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Putting it all back together again====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  &#039;&#039;&#039;When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit switches and electrical connections&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Stack unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  &#039;&#039;&#039;This is important&#039;&#039;&#039; – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Go for a test drive – carefully!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====What to do if your car swallows the clutch master cylinder dust boot…====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bloody thing fell off and directly into the gaping maw of the blower unit.  I used this contraption to retrieve it, and here’s the proof :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_65.JPG|Duct tape to the rescue!]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_64.JPG|The offending dust boot, rescued from the blower unit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9527</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9527"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T13:15:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per clutch pedal above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Take the closure plate off and store the thick spacer bearing, shims, pedal and thrust washer to one side for final assembly later.  Remove the shaft fixing screw and remove the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer and shim stack then the bushed pedal, then another shim stack, then the second thrust washer into the aperture so that there is little or no side-to-side movement of the pedal.  You will find it virtually impossible to totally eradicate this movement as space is tight and it takes some finessing to get the shims and thrust washers aligned when inserting the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step 30b for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
**I used around 0.2mm of shim either side of the pedal for both of mine, as a guideline&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle pedal with a dab of LM grease between each washer, shim and spacer to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_60.JPG|Pedal Box reassembled]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_61.JPG|Overview of pedal assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_62.JPG|Brake pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_63.JPG|Clutch pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You&#039;re using the standard Lotus arangement=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer, then the bushed pedal, then the second thrust washer into the aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step the above for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the throttle pedal pivot bearing with flange to the left when looking at the front of the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit a thrust washer then the bushed throttle pedal, then the second pivot bearing spacer (oriented with flange adjacent to pedal) with a dab of LM grease between each component to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Putting it all back together again====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  &#039;&#039;&#039;When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit switches and electrical connections&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Stack unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  &#039;&#039;&#039;This is important&#039;&#039;&#039; – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Go for a test drive – carefully!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====What to do if your car swallows the clutch master cylinder dust boot…====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bloody thing fell off and directly into the gaping maw of the blower unit.  I used this contraption to retrieve it, and here’s the proof :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_65.JPG|Duct tape to the rescue!]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_64.JPG|The offending dust boot, rescued from the blower unit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9526</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9526"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T13:15:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per clutch pedal above&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Take the closure plate off and store the thick spacer bearing, shims, pedal and thrust washer to one side for final assembly later.  Remove the shaft fixing screw and remove the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer and shim stack then the bushed pedal, then another shim stack, then the second thrust washer into the aperture so that there is little or no side-to-side movement of the pedal.  You will find it virtually impossible to totally eradicate this movement as space is tight and it takes some finessing to get the shims and thrust washers aligned when inserting the shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step 30b for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
**I used around 0.2mm of shim either side of the pedal for both of mine, as a guideline&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle pedal with a dab of LM grease between each washer, shim and spacer to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_60.JPG|Pedal Box reassembled]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_61.JPG|Overview of pedal assemblies]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_62.JPG|Brake pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_63.JPG|Clutch pedal detail]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You&#039;re using the standard Lotus arangement=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fitting the pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Taking car to ensure that the shaft is inserted the correct way around, slide it into the pedal box to the brake pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Fit a thrust washer, then the bushed pedal, then the second thrust washer into the aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
**Repeat step the above for the clutch pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fully screw the shaft into position, taking care to ensure that the thrust washers are properly seated on the small machined shoulder of each pedal aperture.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the throttle pedal pivot bearing with flange to the left when looking at the front of the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit a thrust washer then the bushed throttle pedal, then the second pivot bearing spacer (oriented with flange adjacent to pedal) with a dab of LM grease between each component to ensure that they don’t fall off during reassembly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Putting it all back together again====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Reassembly is the reverse of taking it all apart, as they say :)&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Slide the pedal box back into position, using the reverse manoeuvre to removal.  You need to be able to jiggle it around a bit to get the first couple of bolts started – and this has to be done by feel – you can’t see any of the bolthole alignments because of where the pedal box is.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*When bolting up the pedal box, all the upper 4 are relatively simple to get in.  The two bolts at the lower front are total bastards.  The only way I could get them in was to grind a taper into the end of the bolt so that it would help align the scuttle bracket and pedal box holes on its way in, then very gently turn the bolts until the threads took.  I was lucky in that nothing got cross-threaded.  Tread very carefully here and be aware that I found it incredibly difficult to get hands and tools in the right places to do these up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Don’t tighten any of the bolts up fully until you have all six started.  This will give you a very small amount of wiggle room to get stuff lined up.  &#039;&#039;&#039;When you’ve managed to get all six in and tightened, treat yourself to another chocolate hobnob.  Believe me; you’ll be ready to torch the car at this point.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the clutch and brake pushrods, making sure that the larger pushrod is fitted to the brake pedal. Ensure that both pushrods poke out of the holes where the master cylinders will sit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Bolt both the clutch and brake master cylinders back into place, taking care to ease the brake cylinder back into position to avoid fracturing or stressing any solid brake pipe work.  In particular, ensure that pipe work is put back into any clips that it may have sprung from.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the brake and clutch pushrods as per the manual – I.E. Turn the pushrods in the trunnions until the pedals just touch the forward stops and then apply ½ turn preload to both pushrods.  When adjusted, tighten up the grub screws in the side of both brake and clutch pedal trunnions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reattach the throttle pedal return spring and loosely refit the throttle pedal stop screw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the steering column, taking care to align the mark on the steering wheel at top dead centre when offering up the universal joint spline joint to the steering rack pinion.  Tap the UJ onto the rack pinion using a suitable drift and hammer.  Refit the pinch bolt and tighten to torque setting #2 (effing tight)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure that the wiring tails for the wiper stalk, indicator stalk and ignition switch are run below the steering column mounting lugs in the gap between the column and the dash panel&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the third column mount bolt in the depths of the dashboard&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Lucas 5AS unit to the bracket and then fit the bracket to the steering column and tighten the two main column mount bolts.  Refit the electrical connections to the 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit switches and electrical connections&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the Stack unit&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the column shroud, after refitting the trip reset/dash light dimming button to the lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the throttle linkage panel to the lower edge of the dashboard and reconnect the pushrod to the pedal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Adjust the throttle pedal stop bolt so that the pedal hits the stop when full throttle is reached at the throttle body.  &#039;&#039;&#039;This is important&#039;&#039;&#039; – if the pedal is free to move past the point of full throttle at the body, you will likely snap the throttle cable.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*In the front services compartment, repair any damage to the diverter flap housing using duct tape&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and tighten the diverter flap housing fixing screw&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the ventilation duct to both the blower unit and the diverter flap housing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit and adjust the brake light switch so that the brake lights come on after ¼” brake pedal travel.  The switch is just pushed into the aperture to the appropriate depth and then rotated ¼ turn counter clockwise to lock it in position&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Refit the driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Reconnect your battery, and you’re done!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Go for a test drive – carefully!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====What to do if your car swallows the clutch master cylinder dust boot…====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bloody thing fell off and directly into the gaping maw of the blower unit.  I used this contraption to retrieve it, and here’s the proof :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_65.JPG|Duct tape to the rescue!]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_64.JPG|The offending dust boot, rescued from the blower unit]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9525</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9525"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T12:57:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per step 11a&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are the discarded parts....&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_30.JPG|Old thrust washers and pivot bearings]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_42.JPG|Shiny pedals]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=====If You’re modding the throttle pedal arrangement (Skip to section 1.3.2.2 if not)=====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Because there is no sensible way to trial fit and adjust the fit of the throttle pedal on the car, I used a scrap piece of aluminium plate to make up a closure plate so I could try it all out off the car.  Any rigid material will do – even thin plywood.  Must be rigid though&lt;br /&gt;
**With the pedal box on its end, use a piece of thin card or paper to create a template for the three bolt holes in the end of the pedal box.&lt;br /&gt;
**Transfer these hole positions to the material you are using for the closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Drill 3 x 10mm holes in the plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Bolt the plate to the throttle pedal end of the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**Trace around the pedal box extrusion &lt;br /&gt;
**Unbolt the plate and cut to the traced line&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_47.JPG|Temporary closure plate in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down 2 x Pedal pivot bearings to 4.5mm from the inside face of the flange.  The throttle pedal is approximately 10mm wide and you want the bushes to not quite meet in the middle&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_50.JPG|Marking out the pivot bearing for cutting]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_51.JPG|Pencilled in for clarity]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_53.JPG|Cutting the bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_52.JPG|Comparison - before and after shortening]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Press the cut down pivot bearings into the throttle pedal &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_54.JPG|Fitted to the throttle pedal]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Cut down the Thick spacer bearing to approximately 10mm from the outside face of the flange&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fix the shaft into the pedal box (you only need to put in one of the two screws at this stage)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Assemble in this order&lt;br /&gt;
**Thrust washer, throttle pedal, shims, Thick spacer washer&lt;br /&gt;
**Pedal box closure plate&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_56.JPG|Assembly in place]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_58.JPG|Assembly without the temporary closure plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The number of shims will be dependent on the exact width of the thick spacer bearing.  Use trial and error to get a stack of shims that allows a smooth running fit with a small amount of resistance.  You can check whether the resistance is unacceptable by fitting the throttle pedal return spring and checking that the pedal snaps back to its upper position under light spring tension.  You are trying to use as few shims as possible to eradicate the side-to-side movement in the throttle pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_59.JPG|Shims in place]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9519</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9519"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T12:28:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per step 11a&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_17.JPG|Chocolate Hobnob time :)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Refurbishing the Pedal Box====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Strip off Throttle pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the pivot bearing spacer off the shaft and remove the throttle pedal itself. &lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the thrust washer and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bush fitted to the throttle pedal out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_20.JPG|Removing the throttle pivot bearing]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean throttle pedal and set to one side&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Undo 2 x pedal shaft bolts&lt;br /&gt;
**Using two 10mm combination spanners, undo the two shaft fixing bolts holding the shaft into the pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_23.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove the shaft&lt;br /&gt;
**Slide the shaft out of the pedal box towards the throttle pedal end.  Remove and discard thrust four thrust washers from the clutch and brake pedals as they fall out&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_24.JPG|Removing the throttle shaft]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove bushes and trunnions from brake and clutch pedals&lt;br /&gt;
**Tap the pivot bushes fitted to the brake and clutch pedals out using a small drift or flat bladed screwdriver and discard&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trunnions from clutch and brake pedals.  Discard clutch trunnion, inspect brake trunnion and clean for re-use.  Clutch trunnion on the left, Brake on the right!&lt;br /&gt;
**Clean brake and clutch pedals.  Some light smoothing of the clutch trunnion hole with fine wet and dry may be required if excessive spalling has occurred. Take a look at mine!!!!&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_27.JPG|Knackered trunnion...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_28.JPG|...what it does to the pedal...]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_29.JPG|...and comapred to the brake trunnion]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal box extrusion&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Clean pedal shaft&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Fit the trunnions &lt;br /&gt;
**For the clutch pedal, using a small hammer tap the bushes into the pedal until they are flush on each side.  The Lotus trunnion kit allows you to do this because the trunnion itself is a loose running fit in the bushes and will slide in and out easily with the bushes in place.  If you are using the EliseParts trunnion kit, you’ll need to use a vice to press the bushes in and most likely the same again to get the trunnion in, which is a tight running fit.  There are plenty of guides on how to do this out there but it’s much easier when the pedal is off the car for obvious reasons.&lt;br /&gt;
**For the brake pedal, lubricate the original trunnion with LM grease and replace.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9517</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9517"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T12:12:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per step 11a&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_15_annotated.jpg|Diverter Flap fixing Screw]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove 6 x bolts holding the pedal box onto the scuttle bracket&lt;br /&gt;
**I found this to be the fun part.  You’ll need perseverance.  In fact, accept that you’ll need the patience of Jobe. The three right-hand bolts are too long to come out with the diverter flap housing in the way.  The three left hand bolts are hidden out of sight underneath part of the structure of the front of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The left hand ones are not dreadful to remove provided you have the brake master cylinder eased up high enough to slide your left arm under the pipe work and around the scuttle bracket. Even so, you will be working blind.  A straight 10mm ratchet spanner (£10.99 from Halfords) is invaluable here.  Once you have the spanner on, should be simple, if intensely uncomfortable.&lt;br /&gt;
**The right hand ones I could only get out be punching holes in the diverter flap housing and using a long socket from within the housing itself.  Even so I needed a big lever to move it across to the right as far is it would go and the front lower bolt in particular was tough to get out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_16_annotated.jpg|Overview of Pedal Box location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove pedal box&lt;br /&gt;
**The pedal box will have glued itself (via the foam strips on the mating faces) to the scuttle.  You’ll need to us a large flat bladed Screwdriver to lever up the front edge, and a drift and hammer to get the rear edge released from within the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Once the box has been released from front and rear edges, push the rear edge up and rotate the front edge down and through the hole.  You’ll then have to manipulate the pedal box further round (front edge down) until it’s been rotated around 90 degrees.  The top front corner of the box will have to clear the steering rack pinion and the bracketry in the base of the foot well, but it will go through &#039;&#039;&#039;provided you took out the throttle stop bolt earlier&#039;&#039;&#039;.  When the throttle shaft has cleared the lower edge of the hole it’ll get much easier and you will be able to pull the entire assembly down through the foot well and out of the car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;Have a cup of tea and a chocolate hobnob or two – you will have earned it at this point&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9516</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9516"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:45:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The clutch cylinder will move around easily – it’s connected by two flexible hoses (one from the brake master cylinder reservoir, one is the dreaded red clutch hose (or braided, if it’s been replaced already)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The brake master cylinder has three rigid brake pipe connections, and will not move as easily.  You basically have to ease it out of the way without fracturing the pipe work or pulling the reservoir off the top.  BE CAREFUL.  The higher you can get it, the easier undoing the pedal box bolts will be.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Clutch pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the grub screw in the side of the trunnion then unscrew the pushrod itself from the trunnion.  The grub screw requires a 3mm Allen key.   It may be in either side of the trunnion.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Brake Pedal pushrod&lt;br /&gt;
**As per step 11a&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unclip brake light switch&lt;br /&gt;
**From the front service compartment, reach over the top of the pedal box and feel behind it for the brake light switch – there’s only one thing in the back of the box there, so you can’t get the wrong thing.  Give it a ¼ turn clockwise then pull it out (towards the rear of the car)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove blower unit alloy ducting&lt;br /&gt;
**Just pulls off the blower unit below the master cylinders and the diverter flap housing.  You can’t miss it, it’s a 4” diameter convoluted alloy tube&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Loosen diverter flap housing screw&lt;br /&gt;
**There is a single machine screw with a big washer on the base of the diverter flap housing – undo and remove it.  This will allow you to move the housing to the side slightly&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9515</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9515"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:42:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*&#039;&#039;&#039;(Optional)&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Gently ease the entire column out through the dash into the cockpit.&lt;br /&gt;
**Do not put huge amounts of force axially through the steering column – the collapsible mechanism may collapse and then you’ll be spending time in a scrap yard looking for a mid-nineties vintage Vauxhall Corsa that doesn’t have a shagged steering column.&lt;br /&gt;
**While it’s out, do up the UJ pinch bolts at torque setting #2 (effing tight).  It’s much easier off the car and if any of them are not tight, it’ll result in steering play.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Unbolt and ease out of the way both Clutch Master Cylinder and Brake Master cylinder&lt;br /&gt;
**The Clutch master cylinder is undone from inside the cockpit – undo the two nuts either side of it whilst upside down in the foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**The brake master Cylinder also has two bolts – they are arranged diagonally and the lower one is simple – undo it from the front service compartment – it’s in a captive nut. The upper one requires you to put a ring spanner on the front service compartment bolt head, and undo the nut from the cockpit – having someone around to hold the spanner on is a great help here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08a_annotated.jpg|Master Cylinder Bolt locations]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9514</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9514"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:38:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Optional) Remove Lucas 5AS unit&lt;br /&gt;
**Two small bolts hold the 5AS unit onto the main steering column bracket.  It is possible to remove the main mounting screws without taking this off but I was following the service manual.&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect both connectors to the 5AS unit – again, both have latching barbs you’ll need to hold down to get them off&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect Steering column switches (including ignition switch connector)&lt;br /&gt;
**Both the wiper switch and indicator switch will slide out of the column housing if you find the latches (top and bottom sides of the switches themselves.  No need to disconnect the connectors from the switches if you do this, but if you do want to, they are held on with a couple of tabs which are quite obvious.&lt;br /&gt;
**Ignition switch wiring connector can be disconnected by inserting a small screwdriver into the recess between the white and yellow wires.  You’ll need to remove the cover from the connector, again held on with barbed tabs.&lt;br /&gt;
**You are trying to push the white plastic bit you can just about see towards the centre of the assembly.  If you put your screwdriver in too far, you’ll also end up pushing the bit that it’s caught on in with it.  &lt;br /&gt;
**If you pull too hard, the entire thing will fall apart and you’ll be stuck trying to figure out how to put it back together again.  If you’re lucky, only one of the three lugs holding the back of the ignition switch in will have broken and you’ll be able to reassemble, then super glue it back together again (having testing that it works before gluing, of course).  &#039;&#039;&#039;Yes, I wasted 2 hours doing this and would not recommend it&#039;&#039;&#039;. &lt;br /&gt;
***There are three components that will ping out and land somewhere in the car.  One is a small piece of nylon with a spring in one end.  This keeps the internal part of the switch centred on the ignition lock shaft and also prevents the lock being rotated too far.  &lt;br /&gt;
***The other two are small “Y” shaped metal pieces that act as the contacts.  One is longer that the other.  The longer one goes in the lower locating position on the central switch mechanism.  Actually, the ignition switch is quite ingenious because the contacts are raised and lowered to meet with the pins as the switch is rotated.  I wouldn’t recommend busting it though, if it pings off again after gluing, you’re screwed because all power to the ignition system routes through the switch.  I’ll probably be buying a replacement at some point for peace of mind.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10.JPG|Steering Column wiring disconnected]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect throttle pushrod from pedal&lt;br /&gt;
**Pop off the plastic ball joint from the tit on the pedal.  If you’re lucky, the rivet holding the tit onto the pedal won’t give way.  If it does, use a small nut and bolt to put it back on afterwards.&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove throttle linkage plate&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo the two small bolts holding the plate to the underside of the dash panel, then swing the entire linkage assembly into the passenger foot well&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove the throttle stop bolt from immediately behind the throttle pedal at this stage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_04.JPG|Throttle Linkage unbolted]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column&lt;br /&gt;
**Move your steering wheel so that the mark you made earlier is top dead centre&lt;br /&gt;
**You’ll need to undo three bolts from the cockpit.  Two large bolts either side of the column immediately below where the stack was, one slightly shorter bolt in the bowels of the dash, on the bulkhead.  Follow the column into the dash recess and it’ll be just above it, buried behind a nest of wiring.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_12_annotated.jpg|Steering Column Mounting bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once these are undone, assume the lotus position and undo and completely remove the pinch bolt on the steering column lower universal joint nearest the bulkhead.  Use a large flat bladed screwdriver, or alternatively a crow bar to gently lever the forward face of the UJ away from the bulkhead.  It will be tight.  It will move eventually.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_08_annotated.jpg|Steering column UJ Pinch bolt]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_10.JPG&amp;diff=9513</id>
		<title>File:Pedal Box 10.JPG</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_10.JPG&amp;diff=9513"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:30:37Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9512</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9512"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:20:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9511</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9511"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:19:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Getting the bloody thing out====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
**I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
**&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
**Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Steering column shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Mark the steering column shroud and wheel at top dead centre  - you’ll need to align things back again on reassembly so that your steering wheel isn’t at a crazy angle&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 4 x small self-tappers holding upper shroud to lower shroud&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo 3 x large self tappers holding lower shroud to column (underneath lower shroud)&lt;br /&gt;
**Remove trip meter reset/dash light dimming button&lt;br /&gt;
**Put lower shroud on the dashboard – the touch key cable is just long enough&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_09_annotated.jpg|Steering boss and shroud marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Remove Stack&lt;br /&gt;
**Undo two bolts visible to either side of the steering column holding the stack onto the main steering column mount&lt;br /&gt;
**Disconnect the single stack connector – there is a latch that you need to hold down and it’s quite stiff&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_10_annotated.jpg|Stack Fixing Bolts]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_11.JPG|Stack removed]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9510</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9510"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:11:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_01_annotated.jpg|Required Parts]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
(Or use the Lotus parts, which will look identical except for the spacer bush and shims.  I only used the trunnion with the pale bushes in the end because I decided against using a compressible bush trunnion in the brake pedal)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I found this to be the best order of working….&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====GETTING THE BLOODY THING OUT====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Disconnect battery&lt;br /&gt;
##I have a master battery cut-out switch, you will probably need to physically disconnect the positive terminal&lt;br /&gt;
##&#039;&#039;&#039;TAKE CARE TO RECONNECT TO THE CORRECT TERMINAL WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER  OR YOUR ECU MAY TOAST ITSELF&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#Remove Driver’s seat&lt;br /&gt;
##Four Allen bolts – front two easy with a cut down Allen key, rear two easy with an Allen key socket and multiple extension bars&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_03.JPG|Driver&#039;s Seat Removed]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9509</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9509"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:04:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===My solution to the problem===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9508</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9508"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T11:02:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;My solution to the problem&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I managed to get the thrust washers from [http://www.igus.co.uk igus]  who very usefully have a free sample ordering option.  I chanced my arm and asked for 5 as free samples.  You have to put in some info and rationale – I said that I am designing a modular lightweight automotive pedal box system (not a million miles from the truth) and they showed up the next day!  For those of you with a higher sense of ethics than me, they can be bought from the same source and will cost you a total of £18.35 for 5, which is still cheaper than Lotus.  As far as I can tell, they are exactly the same part.  In fact, the pivot bearings seem to be exactly the same as igus part number JFM-2023-11.  These are cheaper from Lotus though.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The thick spacer bearing and shim washers came from [http://www.ondrives.com ondrives].  These parts took a little longer to arrive, around two weeks.  Plan accordingly if you’re not blagging shims from me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In fairness, I did also buy two additional bags of shims – 0.5mm and 1mm thick because I had no idea how much clearance I’d need to take up.  I didn’t use any of them so you’ll most likely only need the 0.1mm and 0.2mm shims.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Of course, I now have a bag of 94 0.1mm shims and a bag of 98 0.2mm shims, so if anyone is interested I can send you a few  - just u2u me :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;How to spend 18 hours of your life swearing at your car&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So – here’s the interesting bit.  First, check that you have all the bits you’ll need:&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9507</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9507"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:56:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;My solution to the problem&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_2.jpg|Improved Throttle Pedal Location]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In essence, I shortened both bearings that would normally be used so that they would fit the pedal as per the other pedals, then found a suitable larger bush to fit and use as a spacer. Because I would be manually modifying these parts, I needed some method to get a good close running fit, so found some suitable shim washers in varying thicknesses to take up the slack.  I ended up using the same shim washers to take out most of the axial play in the other pedals too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Net result is that both shoulders of the throttle pedal are properly supported, and there is a much larger bearing area on the pedal/spacer interface.  Should last much longer!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The parts list I ended up using is below:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_Table_2.jpg|Flying Banana&#039;s Parts Table]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9506</id>
		<title>Pedal Box Refurbishment</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=Pedal_Box_Refurbishment&amp;diff=9506"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:52:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: Created page with &amp;quot;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==   Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it. ...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== SELOC how-to: Elise S1 Pedal Box Refurbishment ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Firstly, Don’t.  Just Don’t.  Take your car and a big bundle of cash to your favourite spanner men and let them do it.  Trust me on this.  You &#039;&#039;&#039;REALLY&#039;&#039;&#039; don’t want to do this job.  Not in a million years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Anyone past the first paragraph will fall into one of two categories:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.	Terminally tight as a gnat’s chuff, or&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.	The sort of person who has whips, nipple clamps and gimp suits in the cellar&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Either way, I take my hat off to you  - you are about to spend between 12 and 18 hours contorted into various unlikely positions and swearing profusely at your little plastic sports car, or “Yellow Piece of Shit”, as mine is now known.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, you’ll need the bits.  The &#039;&#039;&#039;official Lotus parts&#039;&#039;&#039; are these:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_Box_Table_1.jpg|Lotus Direct Replacement Parts Table]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This list of parts will enable you to put the pedal box back to factory fresh condition, assuming that your brake trunnion is in good condition (these appear to be good for well over 100k miles, based on anecdotal evidence).  If you need the brake trunnion, it’s part number &#039;&#039;&#039;A111J0039F&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I decided that the original arrangement, particularly on the throttle pedal, could do with improvement, so designed an alternative that hopefully will last longer and does immediately improve pedal feel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;The problem with the original Lotus Pedal Arrangement&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Image:Pedal_box_diagram_1.jpg|Elise Pedal Box Schematic]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the above diagram, you can see that Lotus used two standard pivot bearings and a single thrust washer to locate the throttle pedal.  I see three issues with this:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1.Support for the right-hand face of the pedal is wholly dependent on the fit of the pivot bearing being used as a spacer&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2.The pivot bearings are a running fit on the shaft, and the frictional forces involved means that the bearing will rotate with the pedal when it’s moved&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3.The net bearing area where the “spacer” bush meets the scuttle bracket is tiny – these bearings are pretty thin – so the wear rate at that end of the bearing is likely to be large.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
With a high wear rate, and the feel of the pedal determined by that fit, I felt that a different arrangement was called for to future proof my pedal box.  After all, I &#039;&#039;&#039;never&#039;&#039;&#039; intend to do this job again :)&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_65.JPG&amp;diff=9505</id>
		<title>File:Pedal Box 65.JPG</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_65.JPG&amp;diff=9505"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:38:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_64.JPG&amp;diff=9504</id>
		<title>File:Pedal Box 64.JPG</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_64.JPG&amp;diff=9504"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:37:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_63.JPG&amp;diff=9503</id>
		<title>File:Pedal Box 63.JPG</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_63.JPG&amp;diff=9503"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:37:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_62.JPG&amp;diff=9502</id>
		<title>File:Pedal Box 62.JPG</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_62.JPG&amp;diff=9502"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:37:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_61.JPG&amp;diff=9501</id>
		<title>File:Pedal Box 61.JPG</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title=File:Pedal_Box_61.JPG&amp;diff=9501"/>
		<updated>2011-06-22T10:36:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Flying banana: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Flying banana</name></author>
	</entry>
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