TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Vehicle security system

2015-03-01T16:54:35Z

GaryDVO:

==Vehicle Security System==

Various security alarm systems have been used on the Elise, but whichever system is fitted,it is most important that the vehicle owner keeps secure records of the transmitter codes and mechanical key codes to allow replacements to be ordered in case of transmitter or key loss.
New cars are provided with duplicate keys/transmitters, and the security codes are supplied on tabs, stickers or printed cards, which information should be recorded and kept safely with the vehicle documents.

Spare transmitters and keys should be accessible at all times if the grief and misery of lock outs is to be avoided.

Spare or replacement transmitters and keys may be ordered from Lotus dealers quoting thesecurity codes, and are normally obtainable within a few days.
If the security codes have been lost, it is possible for the dealer, having adequately established proof of ownership, to request from Lotus a factory record archive search, for which a small charge is made.
This would of course be of no value if the alarm system or lock set has been replaced since factory build.

===Elise S1 1996 to 2000===

S1 1996 to 2000 model year Elise is fitted as standard with a Lucas 5AS security module which is electronically matched to the engine management system and provides the following security features:

The trapezoidal transmitter fob has two buttons, one smooth and one embossed with a padlock symbol. Replacement transmitters are purchased uncoded, and are matched to the car by a Lotus dealer using a scanner tool.

===Elise Alarm Upgrage Option pre Oct 97===

Optional upgrade on S1 Elise prior to October 1997 was a Cobra Goldline 6019HF,
which meets Thatcham Category One requirements and includes the following features:
- Ingress protection using sensing switches on the front bonnet, engine lid and both
doors;

- Switchable intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor;

- Self powered siren;

- Passive engine immobilisation;

- Dynamic coding of the transmitter key.

When the alarm is fully armed, triggering will occur if:

- a door, bonnet or engine lid is opened;

- movement within the passenger compartment is detected.

- the vehicle power supply is interrupted.

When triggered, the self powered siren will sound and the hazard warning lamps will flash.
The rectangular transmitter fob has a red and a blue button. Replacement transmitters are
ordered quoting the security code.

===Elise Alarm Upgrage Option After Oct 97===

Optional upgrade on S1 Elise prior from October 1997 was a Cobra 6422, which
meets Thatcham Category One requirements and includes similar features to the 6019HF.
The round shape transmitter fobs have a large and a small button. Replacement
transmitters are purchased uncoded, and are programmed to the car by the owner using the
security touch key.

What the manual doesn't mention is that if your fob doesn't work (after changing the battery for example), you don't necessarily have to go through that whole procedure. The S1 manual doesn't tell you this, but the simple sequence to resync the fob is as follows:

1) Remove battery & wait 10 seconds before re-installing (re-sync can fail if this step is missed)
2) Hold down both buttons (remote fob LED will light), holding down for approx.10 seconds until LED turns off.
3) Release both buttons.
4) Press large button for one second, LED will flash…re-sync complete

I did this with two separate fobs last weekend and it worked a treat.

NeilGC

===340R Exige S1 and Elise S2 Before Feb 02===

S2 Elise prior to Feb. '02 and all 340R and S1 Exige models, use a Meta vehicle
security system, being either an M36 T2 electronic immobiliser meeting Thatcham category
2 requirements, or, as an optional upgrade, a full M99 T2 alarm system incorporating M23
cockpit intrusion sensing and a self powered siren, which meets Thatcham 1

The optional upgrade includes the following security features:

- Ingress protection using sensing switches on the front access panels and engine lid.
- Selectable cockpit intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor.

- Automatic (passive) engine immobilisation to prevent the engine from being started.

- Self powered siren to maintain protection if the vehicle battery is disconnected.

- 'Dynamic coding' of the transmitter keys;
Each time the transmitters are used, the
operating frequency is randomly changed to guard against the possibility of code copying.
The alarm will be triggered by any of the following actions:
- Opening a door, engine lid or front access panel;
- Movement detected within the cockpit;
- Energising the ignition circuit ('hot wiring');
- Interruption of the vehicle battery power supply.
The transmitter fob with single button is incorporated into the head of the mechanical door key.
Replacement transmitter/keys may be ordered either uncoded (if only a mechanical blade is required, into the head of which the original transmitter board may be transferred), or coded (if security code is supplied). New coded transmitters must then be programmed to the car by the owner using a button press sequence.

=== Elise S1 Cobra ====

If you have no touch key and change the battery in the Fob use the procedure on the Youtube video, it works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obFco5z3OA8

===Elise S2 After March 02===

Elise models built from approx. March '02, are fitted with a Cobra 8185 engine electronic
immobiliser meeting Thatcham category 2 requirements, but for enhanced theft and vandal
protection, the car can be specified with a Thatcham 1 category Cobra 8186 upgraded alarm
which includes cockpit intrusion sensing and a self powered siren.

Online User guide http://auto.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/cobra_electronics/8186.html

Immobiliser (8185 & 8186): In order to provide a measure of automatic vehicle security,
independent of any driver initiative, both 8185 and 8186 systems will ‘passively’ immobilise
the engine’s cranking and running circuits after the first occurring of the following
approximate time delays:

i) Four minutes after switching off the ignition.

ii) One minute after switching off the ignition and opening either door. 8186 Alarm System: As an optional upgrade, the Elise may be specified factory built with a Cobra 8186 vehicle security system which incorporates the following features:

- Ingress protection using sensing switches on both doors, both front body access panels, and the engine cover.

- Selectable cockpit intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor.

- Automatic (passive) engine immobilisation to prevent the engine from being started.

- Self powered siren to maintain protection if the vehicle battery is disconnected.

- 'Dynamic coding' of the transmitter keys; Each time the transmitters are used, the operating frequency is randomly changed to guard against the possibility of code copying.

- Personal protection by remote activation of siren.

The alarm will be triggered by any of the following actions:

- Opening a door, engine lid or front access panel;

- Movement detected within the cockpit;

- Energising the ignition circuit ('hot wiring');

- Interruption of the vehicle battery power supply.

The transmitter fobs are the same as used on Cobra 6422 (see above).
Replacement transmitters are purchased un-coded, and are programmed to the car by the owner using a Personal Identification Number (PIN) supplied with the alarm.

===Elise & Exige S2 2008? Onwards===

[[Image:Transmitter_Key.gif|thumb|left]]
These models have a single key fob that combines ignition key and alarm.
They are oval (think like an eye) in shape and have 3 buttons, one round with a Lotus logo and 2 flat black ones.
{{clr}}

====Transmitter Key battery replacement====

The transmitter keys will normally operate within a range of 5 metres from the car, but this may be reduced by the presence of other radio signals in the vicinity. The transmitters are powered by a long life 3v lithium battery (type CR2032) which should last for 3 years. However, it is recommended to renew the batteries every 12 months.

[[Image:Transmitter_Battery_Replacement.gif|thumb|left]]
# Using a small screwdriver, prise open the back panel of the key case using the slot by the keyring hole.
# Remove the old battery and wait for 10 seconds before inserting the new battery with the +ve sign uppermost and holding the battery only by the periphery
# refit the back panel, pressing firmly to engage the clip.
# the transmitter should now operate normally
{{clr}}

====Emergency Disarming/mobilising====

If the transmitter keys are lost or damaged, the alarm system owner's 5-digit PIN may be used to disarm the alarm, PROVIDED that access is available to the cabin:

#turn on the ignition, the alarm tell tale will light
#If the alarm is armed, accessing the cabin or turning on the ignition will trigger the alarm until completion of this emergency process
#Within 10 seconds, turn the ignition off; the tell tale will begin to flash
#After a number of flashes corresponding to the first digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Note that the first flash may not be of full duration (but it is still to be counted) dependent on the waveform position at time of ignition switch off
#Turn off the ignition and after a number of flashes corresponding to the second digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Repeat this process until all 5 digits have been completed. Note that 10 flashes correspond to a zero digit
#If the PIN is entered correctly, the alarm will sound a short beep and will now be overridden and the engine mobilised. However passive immobilisation will still occur after an ignition off time of 40 seconds, requiring a repeat of the above procedure to mobilise. Passive arming and passive door locking cannot occur until a transmitter is used to operate the alarm.

If at any stage of the process, a number is entered incorrectly, the system will immediately revert to the start, so that the whole PIN must be re-entered.

====Programming Additional Transmitters====

A max of 6 transmitters may be programmed to the car, any thereafter overwriting the first to have been programmed.

#With the engine immobilised (tell tale flashes briefly once per second), turn on the ignition
#Enter the PIN as detailed above, followed by the additional two digits 1, 1.
#The tell tale will flash rapidly for one second, then turn off.
#Within 8 seconds, press any button on the transmitter to be programmed. The tell tale will then pulse rapidly and the siren will beep
#Within 10 seconds, press any button on the next transmitter to be programmed (if applicable) and repeat this process for all remaining transmitters.
#When all transmitters have been programmed, wait for 10 seconds , of turn off the ignition.

To disable a lost or stolen transmitter from the system, use the above procedure to programme 6 transmitters, if necessary, repeatedly reprogramming the same transmitter if less than 6 programmed transmitters are to be used.

pfk manual elise s2 alarm http://www.warp.at/liz/pfk457/D457520RV3.pdf

WORKS ON 2005 CAR

REMOTE KEY FOB - PROGRAMMING - USE WHEN ADDING A NEW REMOTE INTO THE SYSTEM

IGNITION MUST BE ON AND THE ALARM OFF

STEP 1 – PREPARING ALL REMOTE KEY FOBS - ALL FOBS MUST BE DONE SIMULTANEOUSLY

Press and hold both buttons on remote until the LED stops flashing (about 10 seconds).

Do this for all remotes to be programmed

The LED on the remote should stay on until after programming.

If the LED on the remote extinguishes by the time you want to program, the key has gone into battery
saving mode, press large button once to bring the LED back on then proceed with programming.

STEP 2 – ENTER PIN

1) Turn ignition ON and OFF 3 times within 5 seconds.

2) Security LED will blink once indicating that the security code can now be entered.

3) Enter security code as follows:

.... a) Turn ignition ON & count number of blinks representing 1ST digit of code then turn ignition OFF.

.... b) Repeat for 2nd digit.

.... c) Repeat for 3rd digit.

.... d) Repeat for 4th digit.

4) Turn ignition ON and LED will come on permanently if correct code has been entered

STEP 3 – COMPLETE THE REMOTE KEY FOB PROCEDURE

1) Press and hold the large button on one of the remotes until the security LED light in the tachometer goes out then comes back on.

2) Do this for each remaining remote

3) Turn off the ignition and check each remote for the correct operation.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:Lotus Exige]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the gear knob

2013-04-17T16:05:22Z

GaryDVO: /* Rover Engine */

== Toyota Engine ==

Lotus stick their gear knobs on with Loctite, or something similar, as they are pretty diffucult to get off. Brute force is normally needed, but it does help to know which way to turn it. On my 111R it was very, VERY difficult to turn. Obviously the longer the bar/allen key you use, the more leverage you get, and you need a lot!

'''Required tools:'''
*2.5mm Allen Key
*Larger Allen Key / bar to fit in grub hole (for leverage)
*Beer

1. Using a 2.5mm allen key, remove the grub screw on the front side (the side closest to "R, 1st, 3rd & 5th").

2. Get prepared for swearing, grunting, anger.

3. Using a larger allen key, or similar size 'bar' for extra leverage in the grub screw hold, turn the knob '''anti-clockwise''' (as looking from the top).

4. Once removed, reward oneself with beer.

5. Do what you wanted to do with the knob: clean it, polish it, put a new gear gaiter on etc.

6. Replace knob in the opposite fashion to which you removed it.

== Rover Engine ==

Enter procedure here.

Elise S1

I used a Softgrip strap wrench (http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=23331&gclid=CIqZxOKH0rYCFerHtAodzFwAUw) about £14 but it did not budge.

After rubbing of my head:

1. Cut a piece of wet and dry 600 3 inches width of the sheet.

2. Wrapped that around the knob.

3. Put the wrench tight over the folded wet and dry (sandpaper surface on the knob and rubber of the strap)

4. A good yank and it moved very easily.

5. Off with the knob, slight surface scratches to the knob, no deep marks.

6. On goes the woolen knob warmer for a few hundred miles that will polish them out.

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the gear knob

2013-04-17T16:04:35Z

GaryDVO: /* Rover Engine */

== Toyota Engine ==

Lotus stick their gear knobs on with Loctite, or something similar, as they are pretty diffucult to get off. Brute force is normally needed, but it does help to know which way to turn it. On my 111R it was very, VERY difficult to turn. Obviously the longer the bar/allen key you use, the more leverage you get, and you need a lot!

'''Required tools:'''
*2.5mm Allen Key
*Larger Allen Key / bar to fit in grub hole (for leverage)
*Beer

1. Using a 2.5mm allen key, remove the grub screw on the front side (the side closest to "R, 1st, 3rd & 5th").

2. Get prepared for swearing, grunting, anger.

3. Using a larger allen key, or similar size 'bar' for extra leverage in the grub screw hold, turn the knob '''anti-clockwise''' (as looking from the top).

4. Once removed, reward oneself with beer.

5. Do what you wanted to do with the knob: clean it, polish it, put a new gear gaiter on etc.

6. Replace knob in the opposite fashion to which you removed it.

== Rover Engine ==

Enter procedure here.

Elise S1

I used a Softgrip strap wrench (http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=23331&gclid=CIqZxOKH0rYCFerHtAodzFwAUw) about £14 but it did not budge.

After rubbing of my head:

1. Cut a piece of wet and dry 600 3 inches width of the sheet.

2. Wrapped that around the knob.

3. Put the wrench tight over the folded wet and dry (sandpaper surface on the knob and rubber of the strap)

4. A good yank and it moved very easily.

5. Off with the knob, slight scratches to the knob

6. On goes the woolen knob warmer for a few hundred miles that will polish them out.

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the gear knob

2013-04-17T16:03:59Z

GaryDVO: /* Rover Engine */

== Toyota Engine ==

Lotus stick their gear knobs on with Loctite, or something similar, as they are pretty diffucult to get off. Brute force is normally needed, but it does help to know which way to turn it. On my 111R it was very, VERY difficult to turn. Obviously the longer the bar/allen key you use, the more leverage you get, and you need a lot!

'''Required tools:'''
*2.5mm Allen Key
*Larger Allen Key / bar to fit in grub hole (for leverage)
*Beer

1. Using a 2.5mm allen key, remove the grub screw on the front side (the side closest to "R, 1st, 3rd & 5th").

2. Get prepared for swearing, grunting, anger.

3. Using a larger allen key, or similar size 'bar' for extra leverage in the grub screw hold, turn the knob '''anti-clockwise''' (as looking from the top).

4. Once removed, reward oneself with beer.

5. Do what you wanted to do with the knob: clean it, polish it, put a new gear gaiter on etc.

6. Replace knob in the opposite fashion to which you removed it.

== Rover Engine ==

Enter procedure here.

I used a Softgrip strap wrench (http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=23331&gclid=CIqZxOKH0rYCFerHtAodzFwAUw) about £14 but it did not budge.

After rubbing of my head:

1. Cut a piece of wet and dry 600 3 inches width of the sheet.

2. Wrapped that around the knob.
3. Put the wrench tight over the folded wet and dry (sandpaper surface on the knob and rubber of the strap)
4. A good yank and it moved very easily.
5. Off with the knob, slight scratches to the knob
6. On goes the woolen knob warmer for a few hundred miles that will polish them out.

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Remove the gear knob

2013-04-17T16:03:27Z

GaryDVO: /* Rover Engine */

== Toyota Engine ==

Lotus stick their gear knobs on with Loctite, or something similar, as they are pretty diffucult to get off. Brute force is normally needed, but it does help to know which way to turn it. On my 111R it was very, VERY difficult to turn. Obviously the longer the bar/allen key you use, the more leverage you get, and you need a lot!

'''Required tools:'''
*2.5mm Allen Key
*Larger Allen Key / bar to fit in grub hole (for leverage)
*Beer

1. Using a 2.5mm allen key, remove the grub screw on the front side (the side closest to "R, 1st, 3rd & 5th").

2. Get prepared for swearing, grunting, anger.

3. Using a larger allen key, or similar size 'bar' for extra leverage in the grub screw hold, turn the knob '''anti-clockwise''' (as looking from the top).

4. Once removed, reward oneself with beer.

5. Do what you wanted to do with the knob: clean it, polish it, put a new gear gaiter on etc.

6. Replace knob in the opposite fashion to which you removed it.

== Rover Engine ==

Enter procedure here.

I used a Softgrip strap wrench (http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=23331&gclid=CIqZxOKH0rYCFerHtAodzFwAUw) about £14 but it did not budge.

After rubbing of my head:

1. Cut a piece of wet and dry 600 3 inches width of the sheet.
2. Wrapped that around the knob.
3. Put the wrench tight over the folded wet and dry (sandpaper surface on the knob and rubber of the strap)
4. A good yank and it moved very easily.
5. Off with the knob, slight scratches to the knob
6. On goes the woolen knob warmer for a few hundred miles that will polish them out.

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Category:DIY

2012-07-09T15:19:45Z

GaryDVO: Blanked the page

Category:DIY

2012-07-09T15:19:26Z

GaryDVO: Replacing the Window Seals

After 12 years I decided to change them

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/21157/FILE0465.JPG[/img]

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/21157/FILE0465.JPG[/img]

Off with:

- window winder
- door card

Now this may not be they way you would do it but I used a scraper to gently push the clips down one by one:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/21157/FILE0467.JPG[/img]

A few fell down in the door but most stayed on the old rubber. It was not too long before it was off:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/21157/FILE0468.JPG[/img]

- Took out the window, undoing the 3 10mm nuts that secure the window to the runner.

- Trimmed the new seal using tin snips

- put double sided tap on the seal

- placed the seal on the door as per the instructions

- re attached the clips

- put the window back in, door cards and winder.

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/21157/FILE0476.JPG[/img]

Same for the other side:

[img=800x600]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/21157/FILE0477.JPG[/img]

User:GaryDVO

2011-09-20T14:32:14Z

GaryDVO: Created page with "On a damp misty morning on September the 19th 1999 I was taken to Peter Smiths Sports Cars by my good friend Kevin Livingstone is his 1971 Porsche 911 T. On arrival the Wheels w..."

On a damp misty morning on September the 19th 1999 I was taken to Peter Smiths Sports Cars by my good friend Kevin Livingstone is his 1971 Porsche 911 T.

On arrival the Wheels were different and a hump on the rear bonnet, not knowingly at the time the car was also 20mm higher than the original Elise. I was now the proud owner of a Lotus Elise 2000MY.

Since that day I have used my car to and from work in all weathers. In 2007 through a flood and then over the past few years that has been in the snow. To my surprise the Elise can go anywhere in the snow as long as you do not hit the go pedal.

Here is a quick potted history of DVO:

Jan 2000 - 1000 miles - Throttle Body & Rivet for the accelerator spring at 1000 miles (fixed under warranty)
Dec 2000 - 2nd service 18k miles new Disks (Lotus pay for parts)
Aug 2002 - Blue Temp Sensor
Jan 2003 - 54k miles disks and Pads (Steve Williams)
Feb 2004 – After visiting www.lotuscars.co.uk Floor well rot (to be fixed under Warranty Oct 25)
Nov 2004 - 84,000 miles Gear selection is as if the gearbox is possessed reverse put into first let out the clutch, still in reverse! (Trying to find out if it is linkage, Clutch or the gearbox)
Feb 2005 - 87,246 HGF - Fixed with the help of AA parts & Labour insurance.
July 2005 - 91,000 Other clip fallen off only 2nd gear. Clip on with cable ties to secure
Oct 2005 - 94,000 went for a new Clutch walked out with Gearbox and slave cylinder.
Dec 2005 - 95,500 Bilstien shocks now on.
March 2006 - 97,300 Front rad hose (bleed valve one) leaking. Fixed at service.
Sept 2006 - MOT Clean pass
Feb 2007 - New Drop links fitted. Quiet at the front now.
July 2007 - A bit smelly after a dip in the burst river Loddon
Sept 2007 - MOT Pass
Nov 2007 - Plastic Throttle body RIP
March 2008 - SOn #2 Yaks in the car - very smelly
May 2008 - 117.5k Ultimax disks Mintex 1144 all round and a new clutch slave cylinder
August 2008 - Outlet Manifold and downpipe let go. Hot gasses hit the heat shield and the car nearly goes up in smoke.
Sept 2008 - MOT Clean Pass
Jan 2009 - 4 x Kumho KU31's on at 123,250
Feb 2009 - Rad blew, now fixed with help of AA P&L insurance - 124,373 miles
May 2009 - C Service, Wheel bearing and HT leads
June 2009 - 2 Offside bearings fixed - The Sound of Silence and miss fire gone :wub
Aug 2009 - Missfire back :( New IVAC fitted. Also a new Battery (flat on return from Holiday)
Sept 2009 - MOT Pass woo hoo
Dec 2009 - Misfire back on overun when leaving Motorway after 2 hour journey :(
Feb 2010 - New MFRU fitted at 132,711 lets see if this stops the missfire at med revs
Mar 2010 - Top hose gives up (thought HGF) but thankfully not. Specialised do Magic again
Apr 2010 - ECU temp sensor replaced, please stop the mis-fire
May 2010 - A service resulted in head off all good now
July 2010 - 135.5k miles Exige shocks on :cool
Sept 2010 - New Drop links + Tyres Kumho again and a MOT Pass. 136.8k miles
Oct 2010 - Clam repaint at Specialised :)
Feb 2011 - Hose goes at work - Geary sends one all :)
Feb 2011 - Heater hose goes, heater matrix drops jams fan blows fuse smelly. All fixed with Pop rivet and fruit shoot bottle
Feb 2011 - corroded Alarm fuse = all lights & music no goey. New fuse and all well - For now
April 2011 - 141k On the way tothe Jackie Oliver evening the car dies off the motorway 300 yards and does it again. 20 miles south on a flat bed and it all fine - ???
April 2011 - 141k release bearing and fork gone. Clutch fine, new release bearing, fork and all is well.
July 2011 - 142k Fuel pump replaced - Hot weather and dead, just like the Jackie Oliver Eve.
Aug 2011 - 143k SH Exhaust (Janspeed MS) SH Cat and new Mintex 1144 pads
Sept 2011 - MOT Pass

More to follow with some pictures

Servicing costs

2009-10-27T12:26:16Z

GaryDVO: Specislised Paintwork added

===servicing costs===

'''Please note this may be inaccurate due to price changes etc.'''

===Back on Track===

01483 456030

All prices include Parts,Labour & VAT, and include a brake/clutch bleed.

Labour rates for other works £55.00 p/hr +Vat

MOT £54.00

Inspection/check over (pre track day/ pre purchase) £60.00

Standard Geometry check/reset £135.00
Track Geometry inc ride hieght adjustment £210.00

"Lotus Elise S1/S2"

A Service £169.00

B Service £269.00

C Service £469.00

C Service 111S £549.00

"Lotus Exige S1"

A Service £169.00

B Service £269.00

C Service £479.00

"Lotus EliseS2 111R /Exige S2"

Annual 1/2/5th Year £179.00

Annual 3/4th Year £209.00

Annual 6th Year £309.00

"Lotus Exige S2 S / 240R / 211 "

Annual 1/2/4/5th Year £199.00

Annual 3/6th Year £299.00

"Lotus Elan M100"

A Service £130.00

B Service £230.00

C Service £340.00

===Lipscomb Lotus===

These are all inclusive of VAT parts & Labour.

K-Series (111 / 111S)

A service £195

B service £295

C service £530 (tensioner & roller advised which takes it to approx £585ish)

Toyota (all)

1 yr / 9000 miles £225

2yr / 18000miles £225

3yr / 27000miles £295

4yr / 36000miles £295

5yr / 45000miles £225

6yr / 54000miles £385

Other bits:

Brake Fluid Change £50

Coolant change £50

MOT £50.35

Trackday pre service £60

===Plans Motorsport===

These prices will need to be adjusted if you ask Plans to use a fully synthetic oil for the service.

'''Lotus Elise S1'''

"A" Service £199.00

"B" Service £299.00

"C" Service £499.00

"C" Service 111S (VVC Engine) £579.00

'''Lotus Exige S1'''

"A" Service £199.00

"B" Service £309.00

"C" Service £519.00

'''Lotus Elise S2'''

"A" Service £199.00

"B" Service £299.00

"C" Service £539.00

"C" Service 111S (VVC Engine) £629.00

'''Lotus Elise 111R/Exige S2'''

Annual Service (1,2,4,5 year) £199.00

3rd Year Service £239.00

6th Year Service £349.00

'''Lotus Exige S2 220S/240 Cup'''

Annual Service (1,2,4,5 year) £369.00

3rd and 6th Year Service £469.00

===Sinclaire's London===

'''Lotus elise'''

"A" £182.03

"B" £275.00

"C" £499.00

"C" 111S £578.55

'''Lotus Exige'''

"A" £203.11

"B" £307.90

"C" £532.89

===Fibreglass Services===

Hourly rate: £35 +VAT

K-Series (111 / 111S)

A service iro £115

B service iro £175

===Specialised Paintwork===

From the web site it quotes:
All types of servicing undertaken with fixed price schedules on the
Lotus Elise 1 and 11 (K series)

A Service £159.00
B Service £259.00
C Service £359.00
excl. VAT

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]

Newbie mistakes

2008-06-04T14:32:57Z

GaryDVO: Cambelt change

==Newbie mistakes==

Common First time Elise owner mistakes.....

===Garage Jewelry===

Cars with low mileage are often not all they are 'cracked' up to be, quite often they will have old tyres, they go 'off' after a few years and turn to stone (not good for handling).

Also servicing is often over looked, yes it is every XX miles '''OR YEAR''' and cambelts are every 4 years .

===Tracked Cars===
Tracked cars are not to be avoided when looking for that 'first' Elise, these cars normally receive a better 'upkeep' then the average road car and quite often have practical upgrades (e.g upgraded brakes)

===BHP!!!===

The Elise is a Light weight sports car, so less BHP is not always slower.

*Current Toyota MR2 = 137bhp/ton

*Elise S2 135R = 178bhp/ton

A standard S1 with only 118bhp was something like 165bhp/ton. every single Elise will do the 0-60 sprint in under 6 seconds.

You need to forget about peak bhp, it means nothing. If there's a figure you was to think about, then its your power to weight ratio - bhp/ton, try looking at 0-100 times instead of 0-60 times as that is where you'll see a big difference.

How often do you ever do a standing start? Me? never, It's usually when you come off a roundabout and accelerate from 40mph.

The 0-60 figure doesn't tell you anything about real world performance.

Also don't forget that the Elise is not built for outright straight line power, if this is something you lust get an airplane. (C) Kevin Ritson.

===K Series===

'''BANG!''' Doom and gloom!!!

By now you would have heard about HGF or head gasket failure.

This is really not as bad as it sounds, you should be more concerned about a suspension refresh.

===Cam Belt===

The Cam Belt change is what ever comes first, either 40k miles (not 54k miles) or 4 years. DVO

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