TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Geo Setups

2012-04-09T09:16:24Z

Hbaumhardt: /* Elise/Exige */

== Standard Setups ==

===Elise/Exige===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height<br />Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| Exige S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
| Exige 240R || 120/120mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
| 111R || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| 211 || 100/110mm || +4.0° || -1.4° || 0mm || -2.5° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| a forum hero S2 race || 110/115mm || +3.6° || -2.0° || 0.5 mm OUT each side || -3.0° || 1 mm IN each side
|}

The standard settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

===Evora===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height<br />Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard || 125/147mm || +5.2° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.6° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
|}

Converting toe from mm to degrees:

# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A). * http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

* Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but can compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

* Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer with front camber. Look at the ratios on the standard settings and maintain the front/rear % delta.

* Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

* Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Factors affecting Geo ==
When asking questions on the forums about "the best geo for ..." the following need to be considred so make an effort to specify;

* What you are using the car for (road, sprint race, endurance race)
* Tyre spec (section & compound)
* Spring rates
* Damper spec and settings
* Ride height
* Current Geo settings
* Perceived problems with current setup

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignment rig which can be more accurate than a computerised laser system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised laser alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the front and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballast in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess'''

==See Also==
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:Lotus Europa]]
[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:VX220]]

VVC Information

2011-09-19T16:53:21Z

Hbaumhardt: /* EU2 & EU3 Differences */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown (EU2 standard pistons)

6. Double tang conrods (EU2 single tang)

7. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

8. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

9. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

10. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor low/error limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Oil Temp Sensor low/error limites to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) limits to 5.5K RPM

ECU VVC control circuit fried (from wrong battery polarity) limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the S2 K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

Remove the gearbox

2011-07-13T14:29:14Z

Hbaumhardt: /* Rover PG1 */

== Rover PG1 ==
The [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] is relatively easy to remove from the Elise, but I don't know what the access is like with the 340R tub.

You need to:

* ''Put Gearbox in neutral (easier to rotate gearbox see section lower down)''
* remove undertray and engine cover
* disconnect [[Battery]]
* remove NSR wheelarch liner and airbox
* disconnect airbox bracket from rollover support and leave it loose (means fuel filter can be untouched)
* remove slave cylinder, starter motor, reverse switch cable, gearbox earth strap and gearchange cables
* drain box oil
* pop driveshafts from box - heavy duty screwdriver or cold chisel
* remove ball joint carrier from top of upright on offside
* remove brakes, lower wishbone and upright assembly/driveshaft on near side
* pull offside driveshaft clear of box
* support engine under sump with a trolley jack
* remove gearbox mount bolt/nut
* remove engine steady bar from subframe and sump
* remove bolts holding black gearbox mount to casing (complete bitch to access, jack the box as high as it will go for the rearmost bolt, then lever it towards the front for the other) and remove the mount
* remove bolts holding box to engine - you may need to remove your exhaust manifold to get access to the two in the sump
* separate box from engine - its held in by dowels
* looking from near side, rotate the box clockwise about 90 deg
* lower the block such that the box drops down
* at this point the box should sort of fall out!

''Plastic oil sump drain container, spare wheel or similar works well to catch the gearbox (Caution it is ****in heavy)''

''Job can be done by one person if taken slowly and carefully but probably easier with an extra pair of hands when your ready to drop the box.''

/haynes
Re-fitting is the reverse of removal....

Except it takes a while to get the box back onto the engine!

Liam Crilly: the technique I used was to use two jacks under the box, in the same position as it came out, then gave it a good shove once it was lined up with the engine. One person on each jack is very helpful at this point. Use the bolts to pull the gearbox onto the engine dowels but be careful not to pull it on squint.

When you refit the clutch slave bracket to the gearbox housing remember that the bolts are M10 fine thread, if you use normal M10 bolts you will strip then out and have to tap the holes for M12 or helicoil.

''Italic text'' ''added by Steve Luck following own DIY gearbox removal''

[[Category:Transmission]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Wheel bearings

2011-06-09T19:18:59Z

Hbaumhardt: /* Elise S2 Non ABS */

===Wheel Bearings===

'''Please Add Info'''

===Elise S1===
Timken JRM3938A.

===Elise S2 Non ABS===

The Rover S2 uses 3 identical bearing packs without built-in sensor and 1 pack with a sensor for the ECU (which then relays it to the speedo) on one of the rear wheels.

These bearing packs originate from the Opel/Vauxhall Astra G front axle.

====OEM Lotus part numbers====

* Bearing pack without built-in speed sensor: A117D6002F
* Bearing pack with built-in speed sensor: A117D6005F

====Replacment parts====

Bearing units are originally made by SKF who also sell complete aftermarket replacement kits:

* SKF VKBA3510 without sensor
* SKF VKBA3511 with sensor

Both SKF kits come including:

* bearing packs
* new mounting bolts (approx 10mm too long for the Elise can be cut down - M12 x 40 Metric fine thread which are hard to find, best order Lotus OE A116W1170F)
* new castle nut for the driveshaft/CV
* new split pin for castle nut
* dust cover for center

===Elise S2 ABS===

Use 4 identical bearing packs, ALL with speed pulse for the ABS signal (which in turn feeds that to the ECU)

For part numbers see the 'with speed sensor' entries above.

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

VVC Information

2011-06-08T13:01:52Z

Hbaumhardt: /* VVC Failure Modes */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor low/error limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Oil Temp Sensor low/error limites to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) limits to 5.5K RPM

ECU VVC control circuit fried (from wrong battery polarity) limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the S2 K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

VVC Information

2011-06-05T09:17:38Z

Hbaumhardt: /* VVC Failure Modes */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) limits to 5.5K RPM

ECU VVC control circuit fried (from wrong battery polarity) limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the S2 K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

Wheel bearings

2011-06-03T14:45:01Z

Hbaumhardt: /* Replacment parts */

===Wheel Bearings===

'''Please Add Info'''

===Elise S1===
Timken JRM3938A.

===Elise S2 Non ABS===

The Rover S2 uses 3 identical bearing packs without built-in sensor and 1 pack with a sensor for the ECU (which then relays it to the speedo) on one of the rear wheels.

These bearing packs originate from the Opel/Vauxhall Astra G front axle. You can use cheep Vauxhall Astra Mk.4 bearings from ebay on the front but not the rear as the dirveshaft splines are different bentween GM and Rover.

====OEM Lotus part numbers====

* Bearing pack without built-in speed sensor: A117D6002F
* Bearing pack with built-in speed sensor: A117D6005F

====Replacment parts====

Bearing units are originally made by SKF who also sell complete aftermarket replacement kits:

* SKF VKBA3510 without sensor
* SKF VKBA3511 with sensor

Both SKF kits come including:

* bearing packs
* new mounting bolts (approx 10mm too long for the Elise can be cut down - M12 x 40 Metric fine thread which are hard to find, best order Lotus OE A116W1170F)
* new castle nut for the driveshaft/CV
* new split pin for castle nut
* dust cover for center

===Elise S2 ABS===

Use 4 identical bearing packs, ALL with speed pulse for the ABS signal (which in turn feeds that to the ECU)

For part numbers see the 'with speed sensor' entries above.

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Wheel bearings

2011-06-03T14:36:11Z

Hbaumhardt: /* Elise S2 Non ABS */

===Wheel Bearings===

'''Please Add Info'''

===Elise S1===
Timken JRM3938A.

===Elise S2 Non ABS===

The Rover S2 uses 3 identical bearing packs without built-in sensor and 1 pack with a sensor for the ECU (which then relays it to the speedo) on one of the rear wheels.

These bearing packs originate from the Opel/Vauxhall Astra G front axle. You can use cheep Vauxhall Astra Mk.4 bearings from ebay on the front but not the rear as the dirveshaft splines are different bentween GM and Rover.

====OEM Lotus part numbers====

* Bearing pack without built-in speed sensor: A117D6002F
* Bearing pack with built-in speed sensor: A117D6005F

====Replacment parts====

Bearing units are originally made by SKF who also sell complete aftermarket replacement kits:

* SKF VKBA3510 without sensor
* SKF VKBA3511 with sensor

Both SKF kits come including:

* bearing packs
* new mounting bolts (approx 10mm too long for the Elise can be cut down)
* new castle nut for the driveshaft/CV
* new split pin for castle nut
* dust cover for center

===Elise S2 ABS===

Use 4 identical bearing packs, ALL with speed pulse for the ABS signal (which in turn feeds that to the ECU)

For part numbers see the 'with speed sensor' entries above.

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

VVC Information

2011-06-01T16:05:56Z

Hbaumhardt:

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the S2 K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.