TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)

2017-03-06T00:13:39Z

Jasonp80: /* Measuring Camber */

== Intro ==

Being a budget class A racer and having forked out lots of £45s to the local Hunter place, following some questionable results recently I want to be able to mess around with the geo (camber and toe) myself so built a rig for £5.98 (normal price £19.98).

Note that whilst this is mechanically fairly straightforward you kind of need to understand suspension settings and what you are doing on an Elise, this is not a comprehensive “zero to geo hero” guide. See see:[[Geo Setups]] for standard settings.

[[Image: Geo_rig_small.jpg]]

== Parts ==

{| class="wikitable"
! style="font-weight: bold;" | Part
! style="font-weight: bold;" | URL
! style="font-weight: bold;" | Cost
|-
| Depth Gauge
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NBN8NA4
| £6.70
|-
| Fishing Wire
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M0HRMS4
| £2.99
|-
| Poles 19mm x2
| http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/rothley-steel-tube---chrome-plated---19mm-x-244m-169523
| £14.00
|-
| Pipe Insulation
| http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/pipe-insulation---15mm---5-pack-699821
| £3.79
|-
|
| '''Total
| '''£27.48
|}

== Preparation ==

The car needs to be on level(ish) ground, centre the steering wheel, hot tyre pressures and load up the cabin to usual racing/driving around weight. Infact having the right ballast in the seats is critical e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver can be 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe.

== Measuring Toe ==

1. Homebase for two bits of 2400mm rigid aluminum (16mm ally channel as they don’t to tubes, but I’ll call them “poles” for now) and 10m of nylon cord or fishing line.

2. The rear track of the S2 Elise is 1700mm and to allow for bodywork and working space cut the poles to 2000mm, mark the centre and drill a 4mm hole 900mm each side from the centre on each pole.

3. Find the centre of the car measure from the wheel track and mark up (front towing post is near-ish.) with tape for coarse alignment.

4. Tape the poles to the front and back of the car aligning centre marks (spirit level to avoid droopidge).

5. Run string through the holes; big knot in one end and tie off the other, make sure it passes near the wheel centers.

6. Measure from the centre of each wheel and adjust the string until its parallel side to side for fine alignment. That is the same distance from the wheel centre to the string on each side of an axle.

7. Use a ruler to measure mm distance from front and rear of rim to string and subtract rear from front for the TOE_IN_MM (minus value is toe OUT, positive value is toe IN).

8. If your want toe in degrees then convert using Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

9. Online Calculator and setup Sheet on Google Docs, save to your machine to edit https://goo.gl/f6tJ8l

== Measuring Camber ==

1. To measure camber I made a plumb line out of stuff lying around (net curtain rail, string, iron weight) and taped the rail across the car to give me something to hang the plumb from.

2. Measure distance from top & bottom of the rim to the plumb line string and subtract top from bottom for CAMBER_IN_MM. (minus is GOOD)

3.Calculate camber in degrees using Excel =DEGREES( ATAN( CAMBER_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

4. Online Calculator and setup Sheet on Google Docs, save to your machine to edit https://goo.gl/f6tJ8l

== Measuring Castor ==

CBA

== Accuracy ==

A minus B is TOE_IN_MM (Minus is toe OUT plus is toe IN)

D minus C is CAMBER_IN_MM (You want an negative number)

Either use RIM_DIA_INCHES*25.4 or take the actual MM measurement of the diameter you are measuring from A to B and C to D

Reading the markings on the ruler seems to be the limit on accuracy - around plus/minus 0.5mm on each measure which is 0.07° in toe or camber so worst case compound error gives plus/minus 0.14° on each setting.

[[Image: Geo_measures.jpg]]

== Adjusting Camber ==

Once you have the plumbline measure you don’t need the string any more (and the wheel needs to come off) as each 1mm camber shim is 0.25 degree front and 0.30 degree on the back - just add or remove the number of shims from the measurement to get what you want (see the service manual for HOW TO).

''' Whilst your there, don’t forget to check or change the rear plinth bolts to A117W7212F 10.9 grade '''

== Adjusting Castor ==

CBA - see the service manual for HOW TO

== Adjusting Toe ==

1. Jack the car onto 4 even blocks of wood for working room (front of an S2 with low ride height)

2. Rear diffuser/under-tray off

3. Secure the steering wheel with a strap

4. Loosen front TRE locknuts and rear toe-link locknuts

5. Measure changes from the rear (thats whats moving), adjust and measure again repeatedly (see the service manual for HOW TO)

6. After getting the front toe perfect, when you tighten the locknuts you can alter the toe by a mm so be prepared to measure and redo a couple of times if you want perfection.

== Get a good reading of measurements ==

Right now (4-4-2015) I'm aligning my Elise S2. First I wend with a piece of cord but found that it is to thick to get an accurate measurement. Then I switch to fishing line (0,1mm) and you get a perfect reading from a normal ruler! Readings of 0,1 mm are possible.

== DIY turn tables ==

When adjusting toe the wheel has to able to rotate around its vertical axis. After adjustment you can role the car a bit so it will settle. Another option is to use some blocks of MDF to get the car a little higher and put in between the two blocks a plastic bag with grease. Now to wheels can rotate very easily and you have more space to work on the setup.
[[File:20150402 164843.jpg]]

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:DIY]]

Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)

2017-03-06T00:13:20Z

Jasonp80: /* Measuring Toe */

== Intro ==

Being a budget class A racer and having forked out lots of £45s to the local Hunter place, following some questionable results recently I want to be able to mess around with the geo (camber and toe) myself so built a rig for £5.98 (normal price £19.98).

Note that whilst this is mechanically fairly straightforward you kind of need to understand suspension settings and what you are doing on an Elise, this is not a comprehensive “zero to geo hero” guide. See see:[[Geo Setups]] for standard settings.

[[Image: Geo_rig_small.jpg]]

== Parts ==

{| class="wikitable"
! style="font-weight: bold;" | Part
! style="font-weight: bold;" | URL
! style="font-weight: bold;" | Cost
|-
| Depth Gauge
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NBN8NA4
| £6.70
|-
| Fishing Wire
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M0HRMS4
| £2.99
|-
| Poles 19mm x2
| http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/rothley-steel-tube---chrome-plated---19mm-x-244m-169523
| £14.00
|-
| Pipe Insulation
| http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/pipe-insulation---15mm---5-pack-699821
| £3.79
|-
|
| '''Total
| '''£27.48
|}

== Preparation ==

The car needs to be on level(ish) ground, centre the steering wheel, hot tyre pressures and load up the cabin to usual racing/driving around weight. Infact having the right ballast in the seats is critical e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver can be 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe.

== Measuring Toe ==

1. Homebase for two bits of 2400mm rigid aluminum (16mm ally channel as they don’t to tubes, but I’ll call them “poles” for now) and 10m of nylon cord or fishing line.

2. The rear track of the S2 Elise is 1700mm and to allow for bodywork and working space cut the poles to 2000mm, mark the centre and drill a 4mm hole 900mm each side from the centre on each pole.

3. Find the centre of the car measure from the wheel track and mark up (front towing post is near-ish.) with tape for coarse alignment.

4. Tape the poles to the front and back of the car aligning centre marks (spirit level to avoid droopidge).

5. Run string through the holes; big knot in one end and tie off the other, make sure it passes near the wheel centers.

6. Measure from the centre of each wheel and adjust the string until its parallel side to side for fine alignment. That is the same distance from the wheel centre to the string on each side of an axle.

7. Use a ruler to measure mm distance from front and rear of rim to string and subtract rear from front for the TOE_IN_MM (minus value is toe OUT, positive value is toe IN).

8. If your want toe in degrees then convert using Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

9. Online Calculator and setup Sheet on Google Docs, save to your machine to edit https://goo.gl/f6tJ8l

== Measuring Camber ==

1. To measure camber I made a plumb line out of stuff lying around (net curtain rail, string, iron weight) and taped the rail across the car to give me something to hang the plumb from.

2. Measure distance from top & bottom of the rim to the plumb line string and subtract top from bottom for CAMBER_IN_MM. (minus is GOOD)

3.Calculate camber in degrees using Excel =DEGREES( ATAN( CAMBER_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

== Measuring Castor ==

CBA

== Accuracy ==

A minus B is TOE_IN_MM (Minus is toe OUT plus is toe IN)

D minus C is CAMBER_IN_MM (You want an negative number)

Either use RIM_DIA_INCHES*25.4 or take the actual MM measurement of the diameter you are measuring from A to B and C to D

Reading the markings on the ruler seems to be the limit on accuracy - around plus/minus 0.5mm on each measure which is 0.07° in toe or camber so worst case compound error gives plus/minus 0.14° on each setting.

[[Image: Geo_measures.jpg]]

== Adjusting Camber ==

Once you have the plumbline measure you don’t need the string any more (and the wheel needs to come off) as each 1mm camber shim is 0.25 degree front and 0.30 degree on the back - just add or remove the number of shims from the measurement to get what you want (see the service manual for HOW TO).

''' Whilst your there, don’t forget to check or change the rear plinth bolts to A117W7212F 10.9 grade '''

== Adjusting Castor ==

CBA - see the service manual for HOW TO

== Adjusting Toe ==

1. Jack the car onto 4 even blocks of wood for working room (front of an S2 with low ride height)

2. Rear diffuser/under-tray off

3. Secure the steering wheel with a strap

4. Loosen front TRE locknuts and rear toe-link locknuts

5. Measure changes from the rear (thats whats moving), adjust and measure again repeatedly (see the service manual for HOW TO)

6. After getting the front toe perfect, when you tighten the locknuts you can alter the toe by a mm so be prepared to measure and redo a couple of times if you want perfection.

== Get a good reading of measurements ==

Right now (4-4-2015) I'm aligning my Elise S2. First I wend with a piece of cord but found that it is to thick to get an accurate measurement. Then I switch to fishing line (0,1mm) and you get a perfect reading from a normal ruler! Readings of 0,1 mm are possible.

== DIY turn tables ==

When adjusting toe the wheel has to able to rotate around its vertical axis. After adjustment you can role the car a bit so it will settle. Another option is to use some blocks of MDF to get the car a little higher and put in between the two blocks a plastic bag with grease. Now to wheels can rotate very easily and you have more space to work on the setup.
[[File:20150402 164843.jpg]]

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:DIY]]

Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)

2017-03-06T00:09:21Z

Jasonp80: /* Intro */

== Intro ==

Being a budget class A racer and having forked out lots of £45s to the local Hunter place, following some questionable results recently I want to be able to mess around with the geo (camber and toe) myself so built a rig for £5.98 (normal price £19.98).

Note that whilst this is mechanically fairly straightforward you kind of need to understand suspension settings and what you are doing on an Elise, this is not a comprehensive “zero to geo hero” guide. See see:[[Geo Setups]] for standard settings.

[[Image: Geo_rig_small.jpg]]

== Parts ==

{| class="wikitable"
! style="font-weight: bold;" | Part
! style="font-weight: bold;" | URL
! style="font-weight: bold;" | Cost
|-
| Depth Gauge
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01NBN8NA4
| £6.70
|-
| Fishing Wire
| https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00M0HRMS4
| £2.99
|-
| Poles 19mm x2
| http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/rothley-steel-tube---chrome-plated---19mm-x-244m-169523
| £14.00
|-
| Pipe Insulation
| http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/pipe-insulation---15mm---5-pack-699821
| £3.79
|-
|
| '''Total
| '''£27.48
|}

== Preparation ==

The car needs to be on level(ish) ground, centre the steering wheel, hot tyre pressures and load up the cabin to usual racing/driving around weight. Infact having the right ballast in the seats is critical e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver can be 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe.

== Measuring Toe ==

1. Homebase for two bits of 2400mm rigid aluminum (16mm ally channel as they don’t to tubes, but I’ll call them “poles” for now) and 10m of nylon cord or fishing line.

2. The rear track of the S2 Elise is 1700mm and to allow for bodywork and working space cut the poles to 2000mm, mark the centre and drill a 4mm hole 900mm each side from the centre on each pole.

3. Find the centre of the car measure from the wheel track and mark up (front towing post is near-ish.) with tape for coarse alignment.

4. Tape the poles to the front and back of the car aligning centre marks (spirit level to avoid droopidge).

5. Run string through the holes; big knot in one end and tie off the other, make sure it passes near the wheel centers.

6. Measure from the centre of each wheel and adjust the string until its parallel side to side for fine alignment. That is the same distance from the wheel centre to the string on each side of an axle.

7. Use a ruler to measure mm distance from front and rear of rim to string and subtract rear from front for the TOE_IN_MM (minus value is toe OUT, positive value is toe IN).

8. If your want toe in degrees then convert using Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

== Measuring Camber ==

1. To measure camber I made a plumb line out of stuff lying around (net curtain rail, string, iron weight) and taped the rail across the car to give me something to hang the plumb from.

2. Measure distance from top & bottom of the rim to the plumb line string and subtract top from bottom for CAMBER_IN_MM. (minus is GOOD)

3.Calculate camber in degrees using Excel =DEGREES( ATAN( CAMBER_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

== Measuring Castor ==

CBA

== Accuracy ==

A minus B is TOE_IN_MM (Minus is toe OUT plus is toe IN)

D minus C is CAMBER_IN_MM (You want an negative number)

Either use RIM_DIA_INCHES*25.4 or take the actual MM measurement of the diameter you are measuring from A to B and C to D

Reading the markings on the ruler seems to be the limit on accuracy - around plus/minus 0.5mm on each measure which is 0.07° in toe or camber so worst case compound error gives plus/minus 0.14° on each setting.

[[Image: Geo_measures.jpg]]

== Adjusting Camber ==

Once you have the plumbline measure you don’t need the string any more (and the wheel needs to come off) as each 1mm camber shim is 0.25 degree front and 0.30 degree on the back - just add or remove the number of shims from the measurement to get what you want (see the service manual for HOW TO).

''' Whilst your there, don’t forget to check or change the rear plinth bolts to A117W7212F 10.9 grade '''

== Adjusting Castor ==

CBA - see the service manual for HOW TO

== Adjusting Toe ==

1. Jack the car onto 4 even blocks of wood for working room (front of an S2 with low ride height)

2. Rear diffuser/under-tray off

3. Secure the steering wheel with a strap

4. Loosen front TRE locknuts and rear toe-link locknuts

5. Measure changes from the rear (thats whats moving), adjust and measure again repeatedly (see the service manual for HOW TO)

6. After getting the front toe perfect, when you tighten the locknuts you can alter the toe by a mm so be prepared to measure and redo a couple of times if you want perfection.

== Get a good reading of measurements ==

Right now (4-4-2015) I'm aligning my Elise S2. First I wend with a piece of cord but found that it is to thick to get an accurate measurement. Then I switch to fishing line (0,1mm) and you get a perfect reading from a normal ruler! Readings of 0,1 mm are possible.

== DIY turn tables ==

When adjusting toe the wheel has to able to rotate around its vertical axis. After adjustment you can role the car a bit so it will settle. Another option is to use some blocks of MDF to get the car a little higher and put in between the two blocks a plastic bag with grease. Now to wheels can rotate very easily and you have more space to work on the setup.
[[File:20150402 164843.jpg]]

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:DIY]]

Geo Setups

2017-03-02T20:01:20Z

Jasonp80: /* Elise/Exige */

== Standard Setups ==

===Elise/Exige===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe [Degrees] || Camber || Toe [Degrees]
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall [-0.07°]|| -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side [0.33°]
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall [-0.01°]|| -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| Exige S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| Exige 240R || 120/120mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20°]
|-
| 111R || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0mm [0.00°] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| 211 || 100/110mm || +4.0° || -1.4° || 0mm [0.00°] || -2.5° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03°] || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16°]
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| a forum hero S2 race || 110/115mm || +3.6° || -2.0° || 0.5 mm OUT each side [-0.07°] || -3.0° || 1 mm IN each side [0.13°]
|}

The standard settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

===Evora===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard || 125/147mm || +5.2° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.6° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
|}

Converting toe from mm to degrees:

# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A). * http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

* Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but can compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

* Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer with front camber. Look at the ratios on the standard settings and maintain the front/rear % delta.

* Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

* Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Factors affecting Geo ==
When asking questions on the forums about "the best geo for ..." the following need to be considred so make an effort to specify;

* What you are using the car for (road, sprint race, endurance race)
* Tyre spec (section & compound)
* Spring rates
* Damper spec and settings
* Ride height
* Current Geo settings
* Perceived problems with current setup

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignment rig which can be more accurate than a computerised laser system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised laser alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the front and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballast in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess'''

==See Also==
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461
* http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/581498-stringless-wheel-alignment-diyers.html

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:Lotus Europa]]
[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Geo Setups

2017-03-02T19:59:19Z

Jasonp80: /* Elise/Exige */

== Standard Setups ==

===Elise/Exige===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe [Degrees] || Camber || Toe [Degrees]
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16]
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm [0.00] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16]
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03] || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20]
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall [-0.07]|| -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side [0.33]
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall [-0.01]|| -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16]
|-
| Exige S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20]
|-
| Exige 240R || 120/120mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm [0.00] || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side [0.20]
|-
| 111R || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0mm [0.00] || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16]
|-
| 211 || 100/110mm || +4.0° || -1.4° || 0mm [0.00] || -2.5° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16]
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall [-0.03] || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side [0.16]
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| a forum hero S2 race || 110/115mm || +3.6° || -2.0° || 0.5 mm OUT each side [-0.07] || -3.0° || 1 mm IN each side [0.13]
|}

The standard settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

===Evora===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard || 125/147mm || +5.2° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.6° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
|}

Converting toe from mm to degrees:

# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A). * http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

* Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but can compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

* Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer with front camber. Look at the ratios on the standard settings and maintain the front/rear % delta.

* Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

* Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Factors affecting Geo ==
When asking questions on the forums about "the best geo for ..." the following need to be considred so make an effort to specify;

* What you are using the car for (road, sprint race, endurance race)
* Tyre spec (section & compound)
* Spring rates
* Damper spec and settings
* Ride height
* Current Geo settings
* Perceived problems with current setup

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignment rig which can be more accurate than a computerised laser system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised laser alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the front and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballast in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess'''

==See Also==
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461
* http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/581498-stringless-wheel-alignment-diyers.html

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:Lotus Europa]]
[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Geo Setups

2017-03-02T19:52:23Z

Jasonp80: /* See Also */

== Standard Setups ==

===Elise/Exige===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| Exige S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
| Exige 240R || 120/120mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
| 111R || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| 211 || 100/110mm || +4.0° || -1.4° || 0mm || -2.5° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| a forum hero S2 race || 110/115mm || +3.6° || -2.0° || 0.5 mm OUT each side || -3.0° || 1 mm IN each side
|}

The standard settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

===Evora===

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe
|-
| Standard || 125/147mm || +5.2° || -0.3° || 0mm || -1.6° || 1.5mm IN each side
|-
|}

Converting toe from mm to degrees:

# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or Excel =DEGREES( ASIN( TOE_IN_MM / ( RIM_DIA_INCHES * 25.4 )))

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A). * http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

* Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but can compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

* Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer with front camber. Look at the ratios on the standard settings and maintain the front/rear % delta.

* Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

* Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Factors affecting Geo ==
When asking questions on the forums about "the best geo for ..." the following need to be considred so make an effort to specify;

* What you are using the car for (road, sprint race, endurance race)
* Tyre spec (section & compound)
* Spring rates
* Damper spec and settings
* Ride height
* Current Geo settings
* Perceived problems with current setup

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignment rig which can be more accurate than a computerised laser system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised laser alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the front and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballast in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess'''

==See Also==
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461
* http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/581498-stringless-wheel-alignment-diyers.html

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Lotus 2-Eleven]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:Lotus Europa]]
[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Bleed the brakes

2017-02-14T14:51:41Z

Jasonp80:

[[Image:Brake_bleeder.jpg|thumb|left|Brake bleeder with reservoir]]
If air gets trapped inside the [[brake hoses]] a softer brake pedal is felt. The [[brakes]] need to be bled and the air removed from the system. This procedure is relatively simple, being made much easier with a specialist bleeder.

If you have air in the system (eg. when changing brake hoses) then you'll pretty much always need to mess around with the front callipers to get it all out as the design of them traps the air in the inner piston.

If it's just for flushing the system with new fluid (no air in the system) then it's pretty straightforward and you don't have to mess about with the callipers.

It helps a lot if you have spanners with a 'bend' at the end, like an open ring-spanner to keep the brake hose itself in place as you tighten the connector on the car side using a normal, but thin spanner.

On my (early) S2 there was enough space. On a VX220 I needed to dremel the hole above the connector a little to get enough clearance.

== Procedure ==
=== Flushing system ===

If no bubbles are in the system and you just want to refresh the brake fluid, you can either connect a pressure bleeder or bleed manually.

Order; OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF. Wheels off for the rears, but can do it through the spokes at the front.

''Tip: Offside is Drivers, Nearside is passenger.''

Manually: For each calliper in turn, pump the brake pedal until it is solid then maintain the pressure whilst the other person puts a non-return valve on the brake nipple and releases it (11 mm spanner) until the pedal hits the deck.

Pressure bleeder: Fill bleeder with brake fluid, connect to reservoir, pressurise bleeder. One by one open bleed valves on calipers until fluid runs clear.

=== Changing brake hoses ===
When changing brake hoses or if you have air in the system a possible approach that can save loads of time or troubleshooting when bleeding is this:

- Before changing the hoses, remove the brake pads and fit very worn/old pads (or some strips of steel or wood) in their place

- Press the brake pedal a few times to extend the brake pistons in the calipers (the old pads or wedge are there to keep them from popping out completely!)

- Now disconnect an old brake hose from the car

- Disconnect the old hose from the calliper

- Connect the new hose to the calliper and tighten up

- Have a helper keep the open hose end up as high as possible

- Gently push back the piston in the calliper (hand/finger pressure for the fronts, screw back the rear) until brake fluid just comes out the open hose end

- Now connect the hose to the fixed line on the car and tighten connection

=== Bleeding rear callipers ===

For the rear callipers the rest of the procedure is:

- Pressurise bleeder

- Tap on the new brake hose and calliper with a plastic/wood hammer to dislodge trapped bubbles

- Open the bleed valve and screw the piston back completely

- Bleed it a little more normally and check if any more air bubbles comes out

Once it's clear, close the bleed valve, refit pads and check pedal hardness after pumping a few times to seat the pads. Should be solid.

=== Bleeding front callipers===
==== S1 and non-ABS S2 ====

For the front brakes there are two ways to get rid of the small amount of air in the hose once it is re-connected to the car.

On an S1 and older S2 without ABS you can pump the brake pedal until the pistons come out (as if the pads where worn), attention DO NOT push them to much and get them out of the calipers!

Now open the bleeding nipple and compress the pistons with the flexible hose first while rotating and gently tapping the caliper in order to guide any air bubbles towards the other piston with the bleeding nipple. Push the piston in completely.

Now push the other piston with the bleeding nipple fully in.
This will force any air bubbles out.

Now put the calipers and pads back in place and bleed once more.

Test for pedal firmness.

If this worked then continue with the next caliper.

==== ABS equipped S2 or spongy pedal ====

On more recent cars with ABS, or if you still can't get a firm pedal after the first try then there's still air in this circuit somewhere and you need to bleed it the traditional way.

The approach here is a bit cumbersome because of the design of the callipers that trap air in the inner piston.

If this is the case then the approach is as follows:

- Pressurise the brake bleeder with a low (8 psi) pressure to stop fluid and air traveling upwards to the master cylinder

- Tap on the calliper and hose gently with a plastic hammer to dislodge any bubbles that adhere to the surface

- Remove a front calliper from the upright (2 allen head bolts), invert it so the connectng pipe is at the top and open the bleed nipple

- Tap the brake hoses gently and also tap on the inside of the calliper.

- Then (with your hands) squeeze the INNER piston in. This will empty the inner piston and force the bubbles to the front one. Make sure you push it completely in.

- Now carefully rotate the calliper normal side up again so the bleed nipple is at the top. Try to turn it so any bubbles in the outer piston will not try to go up the connecting pipe again.

- With the calliper 'right side up', tap the calliper again and squeeze the OUTER piston back into the calliper and watch for air bubbles escaping

- Close nipple

- Lightly bolt calliper back onto upright

- Refit pads

- Test for firm pedal after some pedal pumping to seat the pads

- If succesful then tighten calliper bolts

=== Conclusion ===

Using this method to fit new brake hoses and bleed the system the advantages are:

- You only introduce a tiny amount of air in the system, so less to get out again.

- You immediately know if you have air left in this specific part of the circuit if the brake pedal was hard beforehand, but now remains 'soft'. (no long 'hunt the problem' sessions)

== Bleeders ==
=== Power bleeders ===
safety goggles recommended
Pump up to 10psi, or 20psi...
Fitted with Ø42mm cap and suitable for most European models

=== Eezi Bleed kit ===
Uses the air pressure from your tyre to force the brake fluid through.

Oh, and don't make the schoolboy error I made, when you decide that you've got all the air out then just do a one more cheeky bleed without realising that the reservoir is almost empty. Oh how you'll laugh as you shoot big globs of air into the system... :wall

=== Make your own with plant sprayers ===
* http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

use it at your own risk, but I made my own Easybleed using one of those spray can with pump included used to spray indoor plants.
worked a treat (as long as there was fluid inside)

* [http://www.blunt.co.uk/hydroponics-shop-uk/hydroponics-products/sprayer-pump-action.jpg Sprayer pump action]

== External links ==
* http://www.elisenet.plus.com/BrakeHoses.htm
* [http://www.motiveproducts.com/ Motive Products - #1 Selling DIY Brake Bleeder]
* [http://www.tool-supplies.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=bleeder&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0 Tool-Supplies.co.uk search results brake bleeders]

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:VX220]]