TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

2-Pot AP Racing Caliper

2021-04-21T14:13:40Z

Lewtus:

Torque specs and bolt info for the cross-caliper bolts that hold the 2 halves together:

Elise 2-pot caliper
Part # '''CP5119''' type

Bolts
*M10x1.50 pitch x 55mm long (x2)
*M10x1.50 pitch x 70mm long (x2)

Bridge bolt torque = '''58Nm'''
('''NOTE!''' THIS IS FOR THE CROSS-BOLTS, '''NOT''' THE caliper-to-upright bolts! Those are 45Nm)

Bolts need to be correct length of thread and plain shank, in Cap head, '''Hi tensile grade 12.9.'''

Information obtained from AP Racing by [https://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=steve+111s Steve 111s] on SELOC. Thread [https://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=467084&page=1#pid8193519 HERE]

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Caliper CP6126
Correct AP seal kit is CP4518-L

2-Pot AP Racing Caliper

2021-04-21T13:22:20Z

Lewtus:

Lambda sensor

2019-02-09T10:01:14Z

Lewtus: /* Spare Parts */

==Description==
[[Image:lamba2.JPG|thumb|right|Lambda Sensor]]
The '''Lambda Sensor''', also known as an Oxygen or O2 sensor, gives a voltage feedback to the [[ECU]] indicating the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream, thus allowing accurate control over the combustion mixture. This is important to minimise emissions, maximise fuel economy and ensure the longevity of the catalytic converter.

On a standard Elise exhaust, it is located on the manifold downpipe, somewhat resembling a spark plug in appearance, screwed into a threaded hole facing the front of the engine. It will (usually) have 4 silicone sheathed wires emerging from it, and may also have an outer heat resistant wrap covering the wires until they have run some distance from the exhaust.

The wires are usually colour coded as follows:

[[File:Lambda_Wiring.jpeg|200px|thumb|right|Standard Lamba Wiring connector]]

*White (x2) - Terminals 3&4 - heater wires. Voltage is supplied via these from the [[ECU]] to pre-heat the sensor to its operating temperature when the engine is warming up. Polarity is not important.
*Grey - Terminal 2 - sensor ground (earth)
*Black - Terminal 1 - sensor signal (+ve)

==Correct Operation==
A correctly operating sensor acts as a fuel cell once heated to a minimum of 300°C, producing a voltage by electromechanical means, which typically ranges from around 0.2 volts in the case of a lean mixture to 0.8 volts for a rich mixture. The optimum mixture ratio is reached at around 0.45 volts.

==Sensor Testing==
*Disconnect the sensor from the ECU at the square, black plastic connector, so that the sensor's voltage may be measured in isolation.
*Attach an electronic voltmeter or oscilloscope (adjusted to a 1.0 volt range) across the black and grey wires attached to the lambda sensor. This can be done in a number of ways; paring back the insulation from the wires, attaching sprung probes directly to the pins in the connector, pushing pins or IDC splicing blocks through the insulation on the wires, etc. '''DO NOT''' use a moving coil meter to test the sensor, as the meter's low internal resistance will almost certainly damage it.
*Start the engine and allow it to warm up for several minutes. As the heater wire has been disconnected from the [[ECU]], it will take longer than normal for it to reach its 300°C minimum operating temperature.
*Examine the voltage output from the sensor. It should be greater than 0.2 volts. No voltage, or a very tiny voltage - far below 0.2 volts, most likely indicates a faulty sensor.
*Rev the engine and examine the change in voltage at the sensor. There should be practically no time delay between the engine being revved and a change in voltage at the sensor. A long delay may also indicate a faulty sensor.

==Replacing the Sensor==
This is commonly considered to be a complete pain, primarily due to the sensor's tendency to 'weld' itself into the screw fitting in the exhaust manifold, making it very difficult to remove. Access is also extremely tight, and it is likely that there will not be sufficient room to faclitate using a specialist oxygen sensor socket.

One suggested solution is to cut the wires to the sensor, allowing a 22mm ring spanner to be used to attempt to remove it.

It is said that Lotus garages have their own special ways and means of removing these sensors, and this can involve removing the exhaust manifold entirely, especially where removing the sensor has led to the sensor mounting thread being stripped and having to be re-cut or helicoiled.

==Spare Parts==
*Elise S1
**Lotus: A111E6059S
**Bosch: 0 258 003 229
**Rover: MHK 10006

*Elise S2
**Lotus: A117E6007F
**Bosch: 0 258 006 127
**Rover: MHK 100840
**Denso: DOX-2017
**Same sensor type used on location in front and behind of cat-converter

Prices range from around £50 for an after market part without the connector attached to £70 for one with a connector to £150+ for a Lotus branded unit from a main dealer.

Do not be tempted to use a (cheaper) S1 sensor on an S2 and splicing the wires. The S2 [[ECU]] will turn on the MIL because the heater element resistance value is different between the two sensor types and the S1 sensor falls outside the allowable range for the S2 [[ECU]].

*Honda engine FRONT sensor for European K20A2 engine (narrowband)
**Honda 36531-PRA-G01
**DENSO 192 400-1090
**NTK OHK563-H5

*Honda engine REAR sensor (not fitted/used on most Elise conversions!)
**Honda 36532-PRC-004
**NTK OZA562-H7

==Wiring==
For Sinclaire's/Essex Autosport Honda conversion the wirings should be connected as follows:
*Terminal 1 (Lambda Black) - orange
*Terminal 2 (Lambda Grey) - purple / white
*Terminal 3 (Lambda White) - red / yellow
*Terminal 4 (Lambda White) - black white

The coloured wiring on Link Up and other conversions will be dependent on the converter. However they will be connected:
*2x white = heater wires ( to ECU A1 and +12V)
*1x black = sensor/signal ground (to ECU E4)
*1x grey = sensor/signal voltage (to ECU A6)

==External Links==
*[http://www.lambdasensor.com lambdasensor.com]
*[http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/bosch/price.pl?item=0258003229 lambdasensor.com .... s1]
*[http://www.fuelparts.co.uk fuelparts.co.uk]

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2014-01-06T12:56:50Z

Lewtus: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.
Alternatively water pump pliers can be used to grip the filter to release it and then undone by hand.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#K&N HP-1002 25mm nut end.
#Mann Filter W610/9

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

Sealey Tools do a dedicated oil filter cup type wrench for Toyota filters part no. VS7111 this takes a 3/8" sq drive wrench.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2013-09-14T10:44:59Z

Lewtus: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.
Alternatively water pump pliers can be used to grip the filter to release it and then undone by hand.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#K&N HP-1002 25mm nut end.
#Mann Filter W610/9

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Smaller Rear View Mirror

2013-08-12T17:01:43Z

Lewtus: /* Golf 2 mirror */

If you drive a lot of twisty country roads you may have found that the JUMBO sized OEM rear view mirror gets in the way, obscuring a lot of the view out of the windscreen.

__TOC__

== Daewoo mirror ==
[[Image:daewoomatiz.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Daewoo Matiz]] A cheap alternative is to fit the mirror from a daewoo matiz (funny wee 3 cylinder shopping trolly, i'd guess most big scrappys would have a few crashed ones. - my local breaker in Glasgow had 5 today.

[[Image:matizmirror.jpg|alt text]]

The pic shows the new one in place above and the old one below in comparison. - it doesn't look like an enormous difference in size, but it makes a BIG difference when you're driving the car!

This mod works for S1s and early S2s. These rear view mirrors have their ball joints in the centre of the back of the mirror.
The mod does not work for 111Rs and S2 exiges. These have their ball joints on the top of the mirror.
I don't know if it works for later K-engined S2s.

Instructions :

# Remove lotus mirror, by sliding the whole thing (including its stalk) upwards towards the top of the windscreen. - it just slides up leaving a small flat mounting plate in place on the windscreen.
# Remove the mirror from the stalk by popping the "ball and socket" joint out of joint, - just angle it too far in any direction forcably.
# Find a Daewoo Matiz in a scrappy. - don't bother trying to remove the stalk and all from the windscreen (i couldn't manage), just dislocate the ball and socket joint in the same way. Just take the mirror leaving the stalk behind.
# Put the new mirror face down on something soft like your seat, put the ball on the end of your Lotus stalk into the socket of the Daewoo mirror and shove downwards HARD until it clicks into place. If this proves tough to do, place the arm with the ball-end in your freezer overnight, and the mirror assembly in a warm place (on a radiator worked for me). The small shrinkage in ball, and small expansion & softening of socket makes the operation a bit easier.
# Slide the whole thing back onto the windscreen mounting.

Bingo!

Mine cost me all of £3!!! It works a treat. Much improved visibility, and you retain the lever on the bottom to "dip" the mirror.

'''Notes'''

It seems the s1 mirror was changed at some stage - my '98 s1 has a small matiz-sized mirror fitted as standard.

The "big" OEM mirrors are ~235mm wide at widest point, the "small" OEM mirrors are about 205mm - measure yours first before you go rooting about in a scrap yard!

The Matiz mirror mount that I picked up from a scrappy was attached with a grub screw similar to the OEM Elise mount. It fits directly onto the 'lozenge' on the S1 windscreen and leaves the mirror around the same position as the OEM mount in its lowest position. If you normally move the OEM mirror to it's highest position you'll find that the Matiz mount leaves it obscuring the view through the windscreen a little, but it's another option you don't want to split the mirror ball/socket.

== Golf 2 mirror ==
Addition by Friso:
There is some confusion about which kind of mirror is fitted to which cars, I suppose...
At least my 2004 S2 111S had a GM mirror with the ball joint on top of the mirror. It is a whopping 260mm wide...

Anyway: I've found a Golf 2 mirror (part no. E1 0010012) to fit quite nicely. This mirror is even smaller than a Deawoo Matiz mirror and, more importantly, it fits on cars that have mirrors which have their ball joint on top.

<gallery>
Image:VW_compare.jpg|GM and VW comparison.
Image:VW_in_situ.jpg|VW mirror in-situ.
</gallery>

Instructions:

# Remove lotus mirror, by sliding the whole thing (including its stalk) DOWNWARDS. - it just slides down leaving a small mounting plate in place on the windscreen.
# Remove the mirror from the stalk by popping the "ball and socket" joint out of joint. I'd say lubricate it and pull straight out. (I don't know for certain, because my mirror just fell off its stalk.)
# Find a small mirror with it's ball joint on top in a scrappy. In my case I found a Golf 2 with a nice small mirror. I removed the stalk and mirror and separated them at home, using some WD40. I pulled straight out.
# Push the old stalk in the new mirror using some lubricant like WD40 I checked the size of both joints first. I'd say most of these joints are roughly the same size, but better safe than sorry.
# Slide the whole thing back onto the windscreen mounting.

Done!

Or, pop out old mirror (mine came out without any bother), then use sandpaper on the ball of the new VW mirror till you have made the ball small enough to pop in without smashing your windscreen. Only took a few minutes of rubbing to get it to fit. Ohhh la.

== Child view mirrors ==

Another option is a stick-on mirror from halfords, easy to fit and also quite cheap.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_222191_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varient__categoryId_52210_crumb__parentcategoryrn_52210

Also try the one available from Mothercare!! Looks neater and ?better vision.

http://www.mothercare.com/gp/product/B000MCWY3M/ref=ts_1_3/026-7029686-0202023?ie=UTF8&mcb=core

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Interior]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2013-01-10T12:53:15Z

Lewtus: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.
Alternatively water pump pliers can be used to grip the filter to release it and then undone by hand.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#K&N HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2012-08-31T16:37:26Z

Lewtus: /* 111R Notes */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.
Alternatively water pump pliers can be used to grip the filter to release it and then undone by hand.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#KnN HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2012-08-31T16:37:10Z

Lewtus: /* 111R Notes */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.
Alternatively a water pump pliers can be used to grip the filter to release it and then undone by hand.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#KnN HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Spark plugs

2012-08-05T14:38:07Z

Lewtus: /* 2ZZGE */

===Spark Plugs===
New plug and an old, crap plug
[[Image:Pluggaps.jpg]]

*27nm Torque

*S1 = 0.9mm (0.900mm) Gaping

===Elise S1===

Lotus PN:A111E6043S

Lotus PN:A111E6285S

*S1 = 0.9mm (0.900mm) Gaping

*Champion: RC8 PYP
*NGK PFR 6N-11 (requires 10mm Plug Socket)
*NGK PFR 6 N R
*Bosch F 5 DP 0R
*Bosch FR 56

===Elise S2===

Lotus PN:A117E6023S

*S2 = 1mm (1.00mm) Gaping

*NGK PFR6N-11

*Bosch FR 56

2004 MY S2 111S

Owners' manual states:
Unipart GSP 66527
Rover NLP 100290
Champion RC8 PYPB4

=== Honda K20A2 ===

*Denso Iridium SK22PR-M11
*NGK IFR7G-11KS

Iridium plugs are OEM fitment on the K20 engine.

'''DO NOT TRY TO GAP IRIDIUM PLUGS YOURSELF!'''

The electrode is extremely thin (only approx 1 to 2mm) and can damage easily.

=== 2ZZGE NA ===

IFR6T-11 NGK Spark Plugs

===Gapping===

To 'Gap' the spark plugs a [[Feeler gauge]] is used

=== Links ===

[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=132&products_id=453 Eliseparts]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=320 Elise-shop]

[http://www.bellandcolvill.co.uk/lotus/parts/Elise_S2/Spark_Plug/70.htm Bell & Colvill S2 Spark Plugs]

[http://www.bellandcolvill.co.uk/lotus/parts/Elise_S1/Spark_Plug/959.htm Bell & Colvill S1 Spark Plugs]

[http://www.bellandcolvill.co.uk/lotus/parts/340R/Spark_Plug/56.htm Bell & Colvill S1 Exige, 340R , Elise S1 190 Spark Plugs]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Spark plugs

2012-08-05T14:26:53Z

Lewtus:

===Spark Plugs===
New plug and an old, crap plug
[[Image:Pluggaps.jpg]]

*27nm Torque

*S1 = 0.9mm (0.900mm) Gaping

===Elise S1===

Lotus PN:A111E6043S

Lotus PN:A111E6285S

*S1 = 0.9mm (0.900mm) Gaping

*Champion: RC8 PYP
*NGK PFR 6N-11 (requires 10mm Plug Socket)
*NGK PFR 6 N R
*Bosch F 5 DP 0R
*Bosch FR 56

===Elise S2===

Lotus PN:A117E6023S

*S2 = 1mm (1.00mm) Gaping

*NGK PFR6N-11

*Bosch FR 56

2004 MY S2 111S

Owners' manual states:
Unipart GSP 66527
Rover NLP 100290
Champion RC8 PYPB4

=== Honda K20A2 ===

*Denso Iridium SK22PR-M11
*NGK IFR7G-11KS

Iridium plugs are OEM fitment on the K20 engine.

'''DO NOT TRY TO GAP IRIDIUM PLUGS YOURSELF!'''

The electrode is extremely thin (only approx 1 to 2mm) and can damage easily.

=== 2ZZGE ===

IFR6T-11 NGK Spark Plugs

===Gapping===

To 'Gap' the spark plugs a [[Feeler gauge]] is used

=== Links ===

[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=132&products_id=453 Eliseparts]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22&products_id=320 Elise-shop]

[http://www.bellandcolvill.co.uk/lotus/parts/Elise_S2/Spark_Plug/70.htm Bell & Colvill S2 Spark Plugs]

[http://www.bellandcolvill.co.uk/lotus/parts/Elise_S1/Spark_Plug/959.htm Bell & Colvill S1 Spark Plugs]

[http://www.bellandcolvill.co.uk/lotus/parts/340R/Spark_Plug/56.htm Bell & Colvill S1 Exige, 340R , Elise S1 190 Spark Plugs]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2012-07-22T15:21:52Z

Lewtus: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#KnN HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 24mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Oil and filter change

2012-07-22T14:48:56Z

Lewtus: /* S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters */

{{Infobox Timetools|
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, torque wrench, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

[[Oil_Labelling_Explained|Information About Oil]]

[http://arc.seloc.org/t/106354 Also See This Thread, good info in there]

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug with a 15mm (K Series) socket/spanner and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter. (I managed to use a chain removal tool successfully on the K Series, S2 111S)
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on by hand (it also helps to part fill the new filter with oil).
# Pour the new oil in to the engine, the amount will vary if you have remote coolers or a non standard installation but a Kseries will be around 4ltrs, remember though its easier to top up than remove.
# Remove engine management system fuse or fuel pump fuse from fuse box.
# Check the car is in neutral, then turn the engine over (the engine will not fire due to the removed fuse) and observe the oil pressure light going out. Have a look underneath for a possible leak at the oil filter or sump plug. Slightly tighten oil filter if necessary, do not over tighten.
# Replace the previously removed [[ECU]] or fuel pump fuse.
# Start the engine, check it fires and run for a short while.
# Turn engine off and check again for any leaks.
# [[Remove the rear undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.
Which ever option you choose ensure that the car is left in gear, with the handbrake on and the front wheels are chocked so that there is no chance the car can move off the supports.

2The thread on the oil filter and oil filter take off is 13/16-16 UNF
[[Category:DIY]]

==111R Notes==

Tools needed:

- 8mm spanner for small undertray bolts
- 13 mm (1/2") socket and ratchet for large undertray bolts
- 9/16" spanner for sump plug
- Short, but stout screwdriver and hammer to remove filter or 25mm socket for KnN filter

As has been previously discussed in various threads, using a chain tool to remove the filter does is not too successful - there is just no room to move the tool around properly. Instead the whack-a-screwdriver-though-and-turn technique is the preferred method.

Whilst under the car check for wear on the coolant return pipe as it can wear through as it rubs on the cooler fitting under engine movement. As a preventative measure you could cable-tie a bit of rubber pipe at the return. This pipe is not on all cars.

[[Image:return.jpg]]

==K Series Oil Filters==

These filters can be used with all K series engines.

#AC DELCO 93156323
#AC DELCO 25011520 (PF 53)
#AMSOIL SDF-57
#BECK/ARNLEY 0418988
#BOSCH 72150
#FRAM PH966B
#FRAM PH2870A
#FRAM PH3614
#K&N HP1002
#MANN 056 115 561G
#NAPA 1374
#PUROLATOR L10028
#PUROLATOR L10241 Metro 1.3L
#UNIPART GFE148
#WIX WL7142
#Mobil M1 102
#Champion B104
#Mahle OC237

==S2 111R and S2 Exige n/a Series Oil Filters==

The Toyota part numbers for oil filters are:

#90915-YZZJ2
#90915-10004
#90915-TA002
#TRD 00602-90915-006
#TRD 90915-SP010
#Mahle OC217
#KnN HP-1002 25mm nut end.

Some of the part numbers have changed but I believe these are valid. The TRD numbers are for Toyota Racing items, usually coloured red.

I ask for 90915-YZZJ2 at my local Toyota garage and it fits and works fine or ask for a filter to fit a Gen 6 Toyota Celica up to 2004. Or to fit the 2ZZ-GE Toyota engine.

Here is a list of cars that share the yota engine
[[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine]]

To save all the hammering a screwdrive "issues". Get your self a KnN oil filter part HP-1002. It has a 25mm nut on the end you can use socket to get it on and off. Would seem to be a Sinclaires standard fit and my car was last serviced there etc.

Dont for get to change your sump bolt crush washer. It is the smaller non metal of the 2 types most shops sell for toyota cars (12mm ID x 21mm OD x 2mm) Part No. 90430-12031.

== Honda conversion filters==

Cars with Honda conversions may need a specific type of filter. List can be found [[Oil_filters_for_Honda_conversion|HERE]]

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Fluid]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Vehicle security system

2012-05-26T14:55:21Z

Lewtus:

==Vehicle Security System==

Various security alarm systems have been used on the Elise, but whichever system is fitted,it is most important that the vehicle owner keeps secure records of the transmitter codes and mechanical key codes to allow replacements to be ordered in case of transmitter or key loss.
New cars are provided with duplicate keys/transmitters, and the security codes are supplied on tabs, stickers or printed cards, which information should be recorded and kept safely with the vehicle documents.

Spare transmitters and keys should be accessible at all times if the grief and misery of lock outs is to be avoided.

Spare or replacement transmitters and keys may be ordered from Lotus dealers quoting thesecurity codes, and are normally obtainable within a few days.
If the security codes have been lost, it is possible for the dealer, having adequately established proof of ownership, to request from Lotus a factory record archive search, for which a small charge is made.
This would of course be of no value if the alarm system or lock set has been replaced since factory build.

===Elise S1 1996 to 2000===

S1 1996 to 2000 model year Elise is fitted as standard with a Lucas 5AS security module which is electronically matched to the engine management system and provides the following security features:

The trapezoidal transmitter fob has two buttons, one smooth and one embossed with a padlock symbol. Replacement transmitters are purchased uncoded, and are matched to the car by a Lotus dealer using a scanner tool.

===Elise Alarm Upgrage Option pre Oct 97===

Optional upgrade on S1 Elise prior to October 1997 was a Cobra Goldline 6019HF,
which meets Thatcham Category One requirements and includes the following features:
- Ingress protection using sensing switches on the front bonnet, engine lid and both
doors;

- Switchable intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor;

- Self powered siren;

- Passive engine immobilisation;

- Dynamic coding of the transmitter key.

When the alarm is fully armed, triggering will occur if:

- a door, bonnet or engine lid is opened;

- movement within the passenger compartment is detected.

- the vehicle power supply is interrupted.

When triggered, the self powered siren will sound and the hazard warning lamps will flash.
The rectangular transmitter fob has a red and a blue button. Replacement transmitters are
ordered quoting the security code.

===Elise Alarm Upgrage Option After Oct 97===

Optional upgrade on S1 Elise prior from October 1997 was a Cobra 6422, which
meets Thatcham Category One requirements and includes similar features to the 6019HF.
The round shape transmitter fobs have a large and a small button. Replacement
transmitters are purchased uncoded, and are programmed to the car by the owner using the
security touch key.

===340R Exige S1 and Elise S2 Before Feb 02===

S2 Elise prior to Feb. '02 and all 340R and S1 Exige models, use a Meta vehicle
security system, being either an M36 T2 electronic immobiliser meeting Thatcham category
2 requirements, or, as an optional upgrade, a full M99 T2 alarm system incorporating M23
cockpit intrusion sensing and a self powered siren, which meets Thatcham 1

The optional upgrade includes the following security features:

- Ingress protection using sensing switches on the front access panels and engine lid.
- Selectable cockpit intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor.

- Automatic (passive) engine immobilisation to prevent the engine from being started.

- Self powered siren to maintain protection if the vehicle battery is disconnected.

- 'Dynamic coding' of the transmitter keys;
Each time the transmitters are used, the
operating frequency is randomly changed to guard against the possibility of code copying.
The alarm will be triggered by any of the following actions:
- Opening a door, engine lid or front access panel;
- Movement detected within the cockpit;
- Energising the ignition circuit ('hot wiring');
- Interruption of the vehicle battery power supply.
The transmitter fob with single button is incorporated into the head of the mechanical door key.
Replacement transmitter/keys may be ordered either uncoded (if only a mechanical blade is required, into the head of which the original transmitter board may be transferred), or coded (if security code is supplied). New coded transmitters must then be programmed to the car by the owner using a button press sequence.

===Elise S2 After March 02===

Elise models built from approx. March '02, are fitted with a Cobra 8185 engine electronic
immobiliser meeting Thatcham category 2 requirements, but for enhanced theft and vandal
protection, the car can be specified with a Thatcham 1 category Cobra 8186 upgraded alarm
which includes cockpit intrusion sensing and a self powered siren.

Online User guide http://auto.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/cobra_electronics/8186.html

Immobiliser (8185 & 8186): In order to provide a measure of automatic vehicle security,
independent of any driver initiative, both 8185 and 8186 systems will ‘passively’ immobilise
the engine’s cranking and running circuits after the first occurring of the following
approximate time delays:

i) Four minutes after switching off the ignition.

ii) One minute after switching off the ignition and opening either door. 8186 Alarm System: As an optional upgrade, the Elise may be specified factory built with a Cobra 8186 vehicle security system which incorporates the following features:

- Ingress protection using sensing switches on both doors, both front body access panels, and the engine cover.

- Selectable cockpit intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor.

- Automatic (passive) engine immobilisation to prevent the engine from being started.

- Self powered siren to maintain protection if the vehicle battery is disconnected.

- 'Dynamic coding' of the transmitter keys; Each time the transmitters are used, the operating frequency is randomly changed to guard against the possibility of code copying.

- Personal protection by remote activation of siren.

The alarm will be triggered by any of the following actions:

- Opening a door, engine lid or front access panel;

- Movement detected within the cockpit;

- Energising the ignition circuit ('hot wiring');

- Interruption of the vehicle battery power supply.

The transmitter fobs are the same as used on Cobra 6422 (see above).
Replacement transmitters are purchased un-coded, and are programmed to the car by the owner using a Personal Identification Number (PIN) supplied with the alarm.

===Elise & Exige S2 2008? Onwards===

[[Image:Transmitter_Key.gif|thumb|left]]
These models have a single key fob that combines ignition key and alarm.
They are oval (think like an eye) in shape and have 3 buttons, one round with a Lotus logo and 2 flat black ones.
{{clr}}

====Transmitter Key battery replacement====

The transmitter keys will normally operate within a range of 5 metres from the car, but this may be reduced by the presence of other radio signals in the vicinity. The transmitters are powered by a long life 3v lithium battery (type CR2032) which should last for 3 years. However, it is recommended to renew the batteries every 12 months.

[[Image:Transmitter_Battery_Replacement.gif|thumb|left]]
# Using a small screwdriver, prise open the back panel of the key case using the slot by the keyring hole.
# Remove the old battery and wait for 10 seconds before inserting the new battery with the +ve sign uppermost and holding the battery only by the periphery
# refit the back panel, pressing firmly to engage the clip.
# the transmitter should now operate normally
{{clr}}

====Emergency Disarming/mobilising====

If the transmitter keys are lost or damaged, the alarm system owner's 5-digit PIN may be used to disarm the alarm, PROVIDED that access is available to the cabin:

#turn on the ignition, the alarm tell tale will light
#If the alarm is armed, accessing the cabin or turning on the ignition will trigger the alarm until completion of this emergency process
#Within 10 seconds, turn the ignition off; the tell tale will begin to flash
#After a number of flashes corresponding to the first digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Note that the first flash may not be of full duration (but it is still to be counted) dependent on the waveform position at time of ignition switch off
#Turn off the ignition and after a number of flashes corresponding to the second digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Repeat this process until all 5 digits have been completed. Note that 10 flashes correspond to a zero digit
#If the PIN is entered correctly, the alarm will sound a short beep and will now be overridden and the engine mobilised. However passive immobilisation will still occur after an ignition off time of 40 seconds, requiring a repeat of the above procedure to mobilise. Passive arming and passive door locking cannot occur until a transmitter is used to operate the alarm.

If at any stage of the process, a number is entered incorrectly, the system will immediately revert to the start, so that the whole PIN must be re-entered.

====Programming Additional Transmitters====

A max of 6 transmitters may be programmed to the car, any thereafter overwriting the first to have been programmed.

#With the engine immobilised (tell tale flashes briefly once per second), turn on the ignition
#Enter the PIN as detailed above, followed by the additional two digits 1, 1.
#The tell tale will flash rapidly for one second, then turn off.
#Within 8 seconds, press any button on the transmitter to be programmed. The tell tale will then pulse rapidly and the siren will beep
#Within 10 seconds, press any button on the next transmitter to be programmed (if applicable) and repeat this process for all remaining transmitters.
#When all transmitters have been programmed, wait for 10 seconds , of turn off the ignition.

To disable a lost or stolen transmitter from the system, use the above procedure to programme 6 transmitters, if necessary, repeatedly reprogramming the same transmitter if less than 6 programmed transmitters are to be used.

pfk manual elise s2 alarm http://www.warp.at/liz/pfk457/D457520RV3.pdf

WORKS ON 2005 CAR

REMOTE KEY FOB - PROGRAMMING - USE WHEN ADDING A NEW REMOTE INTO THE SYSTEM

IGNITION MUST BE ON AND THE ALARM OFF

STEP 1 – PREPARING ALL REMOTE KEY FOBS - ALL FOBS MUST BE DONE SIMULTANEOUSLY

Press and hold both buttons on remote until the LED stops flashing (about 10 seconds).

Do this for all remotes to be programmed

The LED on the remote should stay on until after programming.

If the LED on the remote extinguishes by the time you want to program, the key has gone into battery
saving mode, press large button once to bring the LED back on then proceed with programming.

STEP 2 – ENTER PIN

1) Turn ignition ON and OFF 3 times within 5 seconds.

2) Security LED will blink once indicating that the security code can now be entered.

3) Enter security code as follows:

.... a) Turn ignition ON & count number of blinks representing 1ST digit of code then turn ignition OFF.

.... b) Repeat for 2nd digit.

.... c) Repeat for 3rd digit.

.... d) Repeat for 4th digit.

4) Turn ignition ON and LED will come on permanently if correct code has been entered

STEP 3 – COMPLETE THE REMOTE KEY FOB PROCEDURE

1) Press and hold the large button on one of the remotes until the security LED light in the tachometer goes out then comes back on.

2) Do this for each remaining remote

3) Turn off the ignition and check each remote for the correct operation.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:Lotus Exige]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Vehicle security system

2012-05-26T14:53:50Z

Lewtus:

==Vehicle Security System==

Various security alarm systems have been used on the Elise, but whichever system is fitted,it is most important that the vehicle owner keeps secure records of the transmitter codes and mechanical key codes to allow replacements to be ordered in case of transmitter or key loss.
New cars are provided with duplicate keys/transmitters, and the security codes are supplied on tabs, stickers or printed cards, which information should be recorded and kept safely with the vehicle documents.

Spare transmitters and keys should be accessible at all times if the grief and misery of lock outs is to be avoided.

Spare or replacement transmitters and keys may be ordered from Lotus dealers quoting thesecurity codes, and are normally obtainable within a few days.
If the security codes have been lost, it is possible for the dealer, having adequately established proof of ownership, to request from Lotus a factory record archive search, for which a small charge is made.
This would of course be of no value if the alarm system or lock set has been replaced since factory build.

===Elise S1 1996 to 2000===

S1 1996 to 2000 model year Elise is fitted as standard with a Lucas 5AS security module which is electronically matched to the engine management system and provides the following security features:

The trapezoidal transmitter fob has two buttons, one smooth and one embossed with a padlock symbol. Replacement transmitters are purchased uncoded, and are matched to the car by a Lotus dealer using a scanner tool.

===Elise Alarm Upgrage Option pre Oct 97===

Optional upgrade on S1 Elise prior to October 1997 was a Cobra Goldline 6019HF,
which meets Thatcham Category One requirements and includes the following features:
- Ingress protection using sensing switches on the front bonnet, engine lid and both
doors;

- Switchable intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor;

- Self powered siren;

- Passive engine immobilisation;

- Dynamic coding of the transmitter key.

When the alarm is fully armed, triggering will occur if:

- a door, bonnet or engine lid is opened;

- movement within the passenger compartment is detected.

- the vehicle power supply is interrupted.

When triggered, the self powered siren will sound and the hazard warning lamps will flash.
The rectangular transmitter fob has a red and a blue button. Replacement transmitters are
ordered quoting the security code.

===Elise Alarm Upgrage Option After Oct 97===

Optional upgrade on S1 Elise prior from October 1997 was a Cobra 6422, which
meets Thatcham Category One requirements and includes similar features to the 6019HF.
The round shape transmitter fobs have a large and a small button. Replacement
transmitters are purchased uncoded, and are programmed to the car by the owner using the
security touch key.

===340R Exige S1 and Elise S2 Before Feb 02===

S2 Elise prior to Feb. '02 and all 340R and S1 Exige models, use a Meta vehicle
security system, being either an M36 T2 electronic immobiliser meeting Thatcham category
2 requirements, or, as an optional upgrade, a full M99 T2 alarm system incorporating M23
cockpit intrusion sensing and a self powered siren, which meets Thatcham 1

The optional upgrade includes the following security features:

- Ingress protection using sensing switches on the front access panels and engine lid.
- Selectable cockpit intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor.

- Automatic (passive) engine immobilisation to prevent the engine from being started.

- Self powered siren to maintain protection if the vehicle battery is disconnected.

- 'Dynamic coding' of the transmitter keys;
Each time the transmitters are used, the
operating frequency is randomly changed to guard against the possibility of code copying.
The alarm will be triggered by any of the following actions:
- Opening a door, engine lid or front access panel;
- Movement detected within the cockpit;
- Energising the ignition circuit ('hot wiring');
- Interruption of the vehicle battery power supply.
The transmitter fob with single button is incorporated into the head of the mechanical door key.
Replacement transmitter/keys may be ordered either uncoded (if only a mechanical blade is required, into the head of which the original transmitter board may be transferred), or coded (if security code is supplied). New coded transmitters must then be programmed to the car by the owner using a button press sequence.

===Elise S2 After March 02===

Elise models built from approx. March '02, are fitted with a Cobra 8185 engine electronic
immobiliser meeting Thatcham category 2 requirements, but for enhanced theft and vandal
protection, the car can be specified with a Thatcham 1 category Cobra 8186 upgraded alarm
which includes cockpit intrusion sensing and a self powered siren.

Online User guide http://auto.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/cobra_electronics/8186.html

Immobiliser (8185 & 8186): In order to provide a measure of automatic vehicle security,
independent of any driver initiative, both 8185 and 8186 systems will ‘passively’ immobilise
the engine’s cranking and running circuits after the first occurring of the following
approximate time delays:

i) Four minutes after switching off the ignition.

ii) One minute after switching off the ignition and opening either door. 8186 Alarm System: As an optional upgrade, the Elise may be specified factory built with a Cobra 8186 vehicle security system which incorporates the following features:

- Ingress protection using sensing switches on both doors, both front body access panels, and the engine cover.

- Selectable cockpit intrusion sensing using a microwave sensor.

- Automatic (passive) engine immobilisation to prevent the engine from being started.

- Self powered siren to maintain protection if the vehicle battery is disconnected.

- 'Dynamic coding' of the transmitter keys; Each time the transmitters are used, the operating frequency is randomly changed to guard against the possibility of code copying.

- Personal protection by remote activation of siren.

The alarm will be triggered by any of the following actions:

- Opening a door, engine lid or front access panel;

- Movement detected within the cockpit;

- Energising the ignition circuit ('hot wiring');

- Interruption of the vehicle battery power supply.

The transmitter fobs are the same as used on Cobra 6422 (see above).
Replacement transmitters are purchased un-coded, and are programmed to the car by the owner using a Personal Identification Number (PIN) supplied with the alarm.

===Elise & Exige S2 2008? Onwards===

[[Image:Transmitter_Key.gif|thumb|left]]
These models have a single key fob that combines ignition key and alarm.
They are oval (think like an eye) in shape and have 3 buttons, one round with a Lotus logo and 2 flat black ones.
{{clr}}

====Transmitter Key battery replacement====

The transmitter keys will normally operate within a range of 5 metres from the car, but this may be reduced by the presence of other radio signals in the vicinity. The transmitters are powered by a long life 3v lithium battery (type CR2032) which should last for 3 years. However, it is recommended to renew the batteries every 12 months.

[[Image:Transmitter_Battery_Replacement.gif|thumb|left]]
# Using a small screwdriver, prise open the back panel of the key case using the slot by the keyring hole.
# Remove the old battery and wait for 10 seconds before inserting the new battery with the +ve sign uppermost and holding the battery only by the periphery
# refit the back panel, pressing firmly to engage the clip.
# the transmitter should now operate normally
{{clr}}

====Emergency Disarming/mobilising====

If the transmitter keys are lost or damaged, the alarm system owner's 5-digit PIN may be used to disarm the alarm, PROVIDED that access is available to the cabin:

#turn on the ignition, the alarm tell tale will light
#If the alarm is armed, accessing the cabin or turning on the ignition will trigger the alarm until completion of this emergency process
#Within 10 seconds, turn the ignition off; the tell tale will begin to flash
#After a number of flashes corresponding to the first digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Note that the first flash may not be of full duration (but it is still to be counted) dependent on the waveform position at time of ignition switch off
#Turn off the ignition and after a number of flashes corresponding to the second digit of the PIN, turn on the ignition. Repeat this process until all 5 digits have been completed. Note that 10 flashes correspond to a zero digit
#If the PIN is entered correctly, the alarm will sound a short beep and will now be overridden and the engine mobilised. However passive immobilisation will still occur after an ignition off time of 40 seconds, requiring a repeat of the above procedure to mobilise. Passive arming and passive door locking cannot occur until a transmitter is used to operate the alarm.

If at any stage of the process, a number is entered incorrectly, the system will immediately revert to the start, so that the whole PIN must be re-entered.

====Programming Additional Transmitters====

A max of 6 transmitters may be programmed to the car, any thereafter overwriting the first to have been programmed.

#With the engine immobilised (tell tale flashes briefly once per second), turn on the ignition
#Enter the PIN as detailed above, followed by the additional two digits 1, 1.
#The tell tale will flash rapidly for one second, then turn off.
#Within 8 seconds, press any button on the transmitter to be programmed. The tell tale will then pulse rapidly and the siren will beep
#Within 10 seconds, press any button on the next transmitter to be programmed (if applicable) and repeat this process for all remaining transmitters.
#When all transmitters have been programmed, wait for 10 seconds , of turn off the ignition.

To disable a lost or stolen transmitter from the system, use the above procedure to programme 6 transmitters, if necessary, repeatedly reprogramming the same transmitter if less than 6 programmed transmitters are to be used.

pfk manual elise s2 alarm http://www.warp.at/liz/pfk457/D457520RV3.pdf

WORKS ON 2005 CAR

REMOTE KEY FOB - PROGRAMMING - USE WHEN ADDING A NEW REMOTE INTO THE SYSTEM
IGNITION MUST BE ON AND THE ALARM OFF
STEP 1 – PREPARING ALL REMOTE KEY FOBS - ALL FOBS MUST BE DONE SIMULTANEOUSLY
Press and hold both buttons on remote until the LED stops flashing (about 10 seconds).
Do this for all remotes to be programmed
The LED on the remote should stay on until after programming.
If the LED on the remote extinguishes by the time you want to program, the key has gone into battery
saving mode, press large button once to bring the LED back on then proceed with programming.

STEP 2 – ENTER PIN
1) Turn ignition ON and OFF 3 times within 5 seconds.
2) Security LED will blink once indicating that the security code can now be entered.
3) Enter security code as follows:
.... a) Turn ignition ON & count number of blinks representing 1ST digit of code then turn ignition OFF.
.... b) Repeat for 2nd digit.
.... c) Repeat for 3rd digit.
.... d) Repeat for 4th digit.
4) Turn ignition ON and LED will come on permanently if correct code has been entered

STEP 3 – COMPLETE THE REMOTE KEY FOB PROCEDURE
1) Press and hold the large button on one of the remotes until the security LED light in the tachometer goes out then comes back on.
2) Do this for each remaining remote
3) Turn off the ignition and check each remote for the correct operation.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:Lotus Exige]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2010-12-04T14:27:02Z

Lewtus: /* S2 K-series Fitting */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

==Recommended Batteries ==

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

===Varta Silver Dynamic ===

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

===Halfords ===

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===Tudor/Exide ===

====Technica ====
*Order number: 543 20
*Type number: TA02
*Capacity: 43 Ah
*Cold start current: 370 EN

*Lenght 207mm
*Width 175mm
*Height 175mm

Regular battery with slightly higher capacity than OEM 36Ah

====Tech-Start+ ====
*Order number: 445 00
*Type number: TP03
*Capacity: 45 Ah
*Cold start current: 450 EN

*Lenght 207mm
*Width 175mm
*Height 175mm

Extra cold temperature start capacity

==== Tech-Tronic2 ====
*Order number: 850 00
*Type number: TC03
*Capacity: 50 Ah
*Cold start current: 360 EN

*Lenght 207mm
*Width 175mm
*Height 175mm

Deep-cycle resistant battery

==S1 Fitting==

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit. It does help a lot to remove the cowl when lowering the new battery into position.

It also helps to remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor, and snip off the cable ties on the wiring loom to make space to remove the old battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery. This is needed for the Varta batteries, which are wider.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

==S2 K-series Fitting==

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

N.B. It is easier to undo the 12mm nut on the stud rather than attempt to undo the 10mm nut on the terminal

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

==S2 Yota Fitting==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

== Jump starting a battery ==

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]