TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Power-fold Mirrors

2013-06-19T21:02:10Z

Liam: /* Retro-fitting */

The Evoras wing mirrors are electric and heated as standard, however the Power-fold door mirrors which allow the driver to fold in the wing mirrors by pressing in the centre of the wing mirror switch, are an optional extra - priced between £300 in [[Pricing and Upgrades (2009)#Vehicle Options | 2009]] up to £350 in [[Pricing and Upgrades (2012)#Vehicle Options | 2012]].

[[File:Powerfold switch.jpg|200px|thumb|right|Lotus Evora Power-fold Wing Mirror Switch ]]A car fitted with Power-fold Mirrors can be identified by looking at the top of the mirror adjustment switch.<br />
If the top centre is marked with a dot the car is not fitted with Power-fold Mirrors.<br />
If it is marked with a picture of a wing mirror and arrows pointing inwards then the car is fitted with Power-fold Mirrors and these can be activated by pressing in the adjustment stick.

==Retro-fitting==

The only difference between cars fitted with or without power-fold mirrors is the switch fitted in the drivers side door panel. All cars are fitted with the necessary motors and wiring from the factory.

The Power-fold switch is Lotus Part Number A132M6068F and can be ordered from [http://www.deroure.com/partinfo.asp?MAK=1&MDL=20&TBL=1871&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=&SC=0&PBID=50202 DeRoure for £42], however the part is originally from the Ford parts bin (Ford Part Number 1S7T-17B676-AA) and is used in a variety of cars such as the Ford Mondeo Mk3 and Fiesta Mk8.

At the time of writing the switch is also available for under £20 from the ebay seller [http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/mondeospares/ Mondeospares], under the title "FORD MONDEO MK3 POWERFOLD ELECTRIC WING MIRROR SWITCH 2004 - 2007". The seller has been reported as accepting 'Best Offer' bids of £12 + pnp.

Fitting is simply a case of prising out the old switch with a small thin screwdriver wrapped in paper towels to protect the leather and, being careful not to damage the trim, lifting it up and out. Once the switch is out use the screwdriver to release the switch connector latch and unplug it.

To reassemble simply plug in the connector, line up the switch and push it back down in the the hole. The clips on the side will fix it in to position.

For a photo guide there is an excellent post over on the [http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/hello-power-fold-mirror-question-113971/index4.html#post1729556 LotusTalk forums].

==References==

[http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/hello-power-fold-mirror-question-113971/index2.html LotusTalk - Hello and Power fold mirror question]

[[Category:Lotus Evora]]
[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Interior]]

Remove the gearbox

2010-06-12T22:05:36Z

Liam: /* Rover PG1 */

== Rover PG1 ==
The [[Rover PG1 gearbox]] is relatively easy to remove from the Elise, but I don't know what the access is like with the 340R tub.

You need to:

* ''Put Gearbox in neutral (easier to rotate gearbox see section lower down)''
* remove undertray and engine cover
* disconnect [[Battery]]
* remove NSR wheelarch liner and airbox
* disconnect airbox bracket from rollover support and leave it loose (means fuel filter can be untouched)
* remove slave cylinder, starter motor, reverse switch cable, gearbox earth strap and gearchange cables
* drain box oil
* pop driveshafts from box - heavy duty screwdriver or cold chisel
* remove ball joint carrier from top of upright on offside
* remove brakes, lower wishbone and upright assembly/driveshaft on near side
* pull offside driveshaft clear of box
* support engine under sump with a trolley jack
* remove gearbox mount bolt/nut
* remove engine steady bar from subframe and sump
* remove bolts holding black gearbox mount to casing (complete bitch to access, jack the box as high as it will go for the rearmost bolt, then lever it towards the front for the other) and remove the mount
* remove bolts holding box to engine - you may need to remove your exhaust manifold to get access to the two in the sump
* separate box from engine - its held in by dowels
* looking from near side, rotate the box clockwise about 90 deg
* lower the block such that the box drops down
* at this point the box should sort of fall out!

''Plastic oil sump drain container, spare wheel or similar works well to catch the gearbox (Caution it is ****in heavy)''

''Job can be done by one person if taken slowly and carefully but probably easier with an extra pair of hands when your ready to drop the box.''

/haynes
Re-fitting is the reverse of removal....

Except it takes a while to get the box back onto the engine!

Liam Crilly: the technique I used was to use two jacks under the box, in the same position as it came out, then gave it a good shove once it was lined up with the engine. One person on each jack is very helpful at this point. Use the bolts to pull the gearbox onto the engine dowels but be careful not to pull it on squint.

''Italic text'' ''added by Steve Luck following own DIY gearbox removal''

[[Category:Transmission]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Heater Matrix

2010-02-21T22:43:54Z

Liam: /* Removing the matrix unit */

[[Image:Thermostat closed.JPG|thumb|right|Cooling system showing the location of the matrix just behind the radiator]]

The heater matrix is a small radiator through which the [[coolant]] runs and warms the air which enters the cabin. On the S1, it is located on the driver's side, near the [[battery]]. The heater matrix is mounted vertically to the side of the blower fan unit.

When the matrix fails, coolant leaks out of it's pipes and into the heater system, resulting in a fine mist entering the cabin through the ventilation system and misting up the windscreen. With a badly failed matrix, a micro-climate can form in the passenger footwell with mist rising and falling whilst driving.

A replacement heater matrix can be purchased from [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=487 EliseParts] (part no AW38506, manufactured by KL Automotive).

elise-shop.com has developed a [http://www.elise-shop.com/heater-matrix-standard-or-upgraded-elise-exige-p-446.html high capacity heater matrix] which has 30% more capacity, but same shape, yet thicker than the original heater matrix.

== Replacing the heater matrix ==

{{Infobox Timetools|time=4 - 6 hours|tools=Torx T10 screwdriver, socket set, telescopic magnetic device, glue for the plastic matrix cover, new heater matrix}}

[[Image:1999EliseHeaterMatrix.JPG|thumb|left|Photo of an old failing heater matrix from a late 1999 S1 Elise. Note the bending of the matrix elements where the rivets were driven into the side of the plastic case.]]

This is a tricky job due to the location of the matrix and the position of the screws holding it in place.

First, [[Replace the coolant|empty the system of coolant]]. This can be done by first unscrewing the coolant reservoir tank cap, then removing the drivers-side wheelarch liner ([[Remove the wheels|remove the wheel]] first!) and undo the [[radiator]] feed hose. Drain into a bucket and dispose of safely. The radiator hose and wheelarch liner can be refitted as this side of the car doesn't need to be accessed again. Some people have reported successfully replacing the matrix without draining the system of coolant by clamping the feed and return hoses before disconnecting them from the matrix and then filling the new matrix with coolant via a funnel.

Next remove the plastic radiator cowl/surround with a Torx T10 screwdriver and [[Battery#S1_Fitting|remove the battery]].

=== Removing the matrix unit ===

Some vehicles have the matrix/blower assembly held together by an rubber band as shown in the workshop manual. Other vehicles have the two held together by a metal bracket and nut on both the top and bottom. These instructions describe removal of the matrix when the matrix/blower assembly are held together with the metal bracket.

It may be possible to bust the two rivets on one side of the matrix cover to allow the matrix to be removed without unscrewing the matrix/blower assembly. If this is possible, it will significantly reduce the disassembly/assembly time. If not, follow the procedures below:

[[Image:1999EliseMatrixBlowerAssembly.jpg|thumb|right|This model has a single green ceramic terminal block and a metal bracket and nut holding the matrix case to the blower case. Earlier S1 models varied.

You can see a spanner to the left of the green ceramic block removing one of the bolts holding the blower to the chassis. ]]
The matrix/blower assembly is held in place by 4 screws. Remove the metal [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=551 flexible heater ducting] and the hoses into and out of the matrix itself. One of the screws is just inside the outlet from the blower where the hose attached. Two are into the bulkhead below the radiator behind the cylindrical green ceramic terminal block. And the fourth is closer to the battery again into the bulkhead below the radiator. It's easiest if you remove the green ceramic terminal block - it's simply held on by the metal at each end which can be squeezed together and pulled out of the center of the green cylinder. Early Elise models had 3 cylindrical terminal blocks mounted on the blower. Later models had just one.

The wire which controls the hot/cold flap sits on top of the assembly. This should be removed. The sprung metal clip holding the cable in placed can be levered off and the S-shaped end of the wire can be removed from the control armature.

Once the matrix/blower assembly is free, it may still not be possible to get the unit out of the vehicle. The [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=488 blower] is connected to the matrix by a metal strip and nut both on the top and the bottom of the assembly. As the matrix/blower assembly is now free and has a certain degree of rotation within the car, the matrix can be separated from the blower by undoing the nut and rotating the metal strip about 30 degrees. The metal strip on the bottom of the assembly is identical. The nuts are prone to rounding or shearing, in which case you will need to drill-out the rivet instead.

With the matrix separated from the blower, you can now remove the matrix from the car. To aid removal, you may need to:

* Rotate the matrix around and extract it upside down
* Remove the front services compartment latch and alarm sensor
* Remove the battery clamp and slide the battery as far out of the way as possible
* Unclip all wiring beside the radiator and pull it on top of the radiator

The matrix unit is held within a plastic case which is riveted and can be glued on the bottom. Take care to remove the rivets without damaging the plastic too much - you only need to remove one pair of rivets as this will allow the plastic to bend enough to remove the matrix.

=== Reassembling the matrix unit ===

[[Image:S1BlowerMatrixAssembly.jpg|thumb|left|Photo showing the blower/matrix assembly removed from the vehicle and clamped while being glued. Originally it was held together with rivets and the holes for the rivets can still be seen.]]
Clean out the inside of the plastic case before putting the new matrix inside and either riveting or glueing the case back together.

Re-assemble matrix/blower unit and then screw it back into the chassis - this may need two pairs of hands and a lot of patience due to the location of the screws. A telescopic magnetic device can be useful to retrieve dropped screws! Re-attach the green cylindrical terminal block, re-fit the hoses into the matrix and replace the battery.

=== Refilling with coolant ===

It may be easier not refitting the plastic radiator cowl just yet as it is easier to get to the radiator bleed screw when bleeding the system. If any of the plastic fasteners were broken whilst removing the radiator cowl, more can be purchased from [http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=382 Elise Shop].

Finally add coolant back into the header tank and follow the instructions in [[Bleed the cooling system]].

== See also ==
[[Coolant system]]

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Fluid]]

Battery

2008-04-21T21:16:48Z

Liam: /* Tudor/Exide */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

==Recommended Batteries ==

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

===Varta Silver Dynamic ===

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

===Halfords ===

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===Tudor/Exide ===
[these batteries appear to be the wrong size]
====Technica ====
*Order number: 544 59
*Type number: TA03
*Capacity: 44 Ah
*Cold start current: 360 EN

*Lenght 207mm
*Width 175mm
*Height 190mm

====Tech-Start+ ====
*Order number: 451 00
*Type number: TP01
*Capacity: 50 Ah
*Cold start current: 510 EN

*Lenght 207mm
*Width 175mm
*Height 190mm

==S1 Fitting==

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit. It does help a lot to remove the cowl when lowering the new battery into position.

It also helps to remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to remove the old battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

==S2 K-series Fitting==

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

==S2 Yota Fitting==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

== Jump starting a battery ==

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2008-03-11T14:19:17Z

Liam: /* S1 Fitting */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

==Recommended Batteries ==

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

===Varta Silver Dynamic ===

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

===Halfords ===

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

==S1 Fitting==

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit. It does help a lot to remove the cowl when lowering the new battery into position.

It also helps to remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to remove the old battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

==S2 K-series Fitting==

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

==S2 Yota Fitting==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

== Jump starting a battery ==

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2008-03-11T14:17:35Z

Liam: /* Halfords */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

==Recommended Batteries ==

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

===Varta Silver Dynamic ===

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

===Halfords ===

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

==S1 Fitting==

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausible as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit.

You could also remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to manoeuvre the battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

==S2 K-series Fitting==

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

==S2 Yota Fitting==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

== Jump starting a battery ==

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2008-03-11T14:17:00Z

Liam: /* Varta Silver Dynamic */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

==Recommended Batteries ==

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

===Varta Silver Dynamic ===

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

==Halfords ==

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausible as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit.

You could also remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to manoeuvre the battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yota Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

=== Jump starting a battery ===

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2008-03-11T14:16:49Z

Liam: /* Recommended Batteries */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

==Recommended Batteries ==

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

==Varta Silver Dynamic ==

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

==Halfords ==

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausible as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit.

You could also remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to manoeuvre the battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yota Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

=== Jump starting a battery ===

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2008-03-11T14:16:38Z

Liam: /* Varta Blue Dynamic */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

===Recommended Batteries ===

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

===Varta Blue Dynamic ===

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

==Varta Silver Dynamic ==

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

==Halfords ==

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausible as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit.

You could also remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to manoeuvre the battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yota Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

=== Jump starting a battery ===

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Battery

2008-03-11T14:15:26Z

Liam: /* Recommended Batteries */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulphuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, albeit very low, current to the battery which drains the cells dry of electrolyte.

A truly intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

===Recommended Batteries ===

The Elise uses one of the smallest standard car batteries available, typically found on superminis like the Peugeot 106. The size can be specified as "Type 063", which should get you the right battery when shopping around. Physical dimensions are 207x175x175mm (LxWxH).

==Varta Blue Dynamic ==

Part number: 544 402 044 3132

This is a good value for money battery with 44 Ah and 440 CCA.

==Varta Silver Dynamic ==

Part number: 552 401 052 3162

This is an extremely powerful battery for the size, boasting 52 Ah and 520 CCA. It weighs 13kg which is up to 1kg heavier than most others this size. Prices vary considerably from £53 to £80 so shop around and find a supplier from the Varta web site.

==Halfords ==

It is on their computer system if you cant remember the size and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - [http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=6 check the benefits pages] for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Allegedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but don't fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausible as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

{{Infobox Timetools|time=15 minutes|tools=10mm socket set,Spanner to undo terminals on battery}}

Remove the windscreen washer tank by sliding up, rotating around 180 degrees and sitting it on the radiator. This helps prop up the bodywork while you work.

You could remove the radiator cowl using a Torx T10 screwdriver, but you're more than likely to bust a plastic fastener in the process. The radiator cowl is quite flexible so can be bent out of the way to allow the battery to exit.

You could also remove the plastic cover over the wiper motor to make space to manoeuvre the battery.

Undo the battery clamp which the washer tank slid into. It has 3 10mm bolts. The top one is thinner than the others.

As with all car batteries always remove the negative -ve terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

Now the battery is free, but it needs to be lifted out of the car. It's a tight squeeze past the wiring looms but it can be done.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [part. E111M0025F] which will fit even better but that means you have to remember to order it.

Eliseparts also sell an [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=525 adjustable battery clamp] which allows adjustment for both height and width of the new battery.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passenger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breather or forgetting to plug the second hole the Varta batteries have can mean concentrated sulphuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Remember to smear the terminals with vaseline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emery paper, grease it with vaseline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm Allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DON'T DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DON'T''' arm the alarm or immobiliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (i.e. before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yota Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]

=== Jump starting a battery ===

When jumping/charging batteries, hook up the positive terminals first, then negative (whether it's to the battery or to some convenient point on the chassis/engine).

Once jumped/charged, remove negative first, then positive last.

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Fit a PRRT

2007-08-28T13:01:51Z

Liam: /* See Also */

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:DIY]]

===Parts Required and Suppliers===
Using Land-Rover Kit (PCH001190):

2 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - [http://www.midlandperformancecentre.co.uk/tuning/product.asp?cn=3005&scn=1052&scn2=2285&p=1955 Midland Performance Centre]

1 off 32mm diameter x 100mm length alloy hose joiners (£6.00) - [http://www.midlandperformancecentre.co.uk/tuning/product.asp?cn=3005&scn=1052&scn2=2286&p=1969 Midland Performance Centre]

Using MG-Rover Kit (PCH003320):

1 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - [http://www.midlandperformancecentre.co.uk/tuning/product.asp?cn=3005&scn=1052&scn2=2285&p=1955 Midland Performance Centre]

or cut a piece from the aluminium tube discarded from the original system

===How To Fit===

With thanks to SELOC Member [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=elise_s1 Elise_S1]

The following page explains how I fitted the kit PCH001190 designed for the Land Rover Freelander to my Lotus Elise S1. Although I tried to use a setup which is as close as possible to the one used by Rover for the late MG-TF, this is NOT an official upgrade and, if you decide to copy it, I accept no liability for any possible consequences.

As my car is a standard late S1, the guide is for a similar car. Although the setup is compatible with all the K powered Elises and derivatives, some models may need some corrections because of their different cooling circuits. Early Elise S1, all cars with air conditioning and cars with aftermarket oil/water heat exchanger do need a slightly different setup.

'''To install the remote thermostat the following parts are required:'''

*1 Land Rover Freelander Thermostat Kit part PCH001190

*1 Spacer to use instead of the old thermostat part PEL000040

*3 Thermostat housing gaskets (2 O-rings + 1 inner gasket)

*40 cm aluminium pipe, OD 32 mm ID 28 mm

*8 lt of coolant fluid (I used a red OAT product, as recommended by the manifacturer)

[[Image:LRstatSEC.jpg|thumb|left|Click to Enlarge]]
{{clr}}

First thing to do is take apart the PCH001190 and getting familiar with all its components. You will have 5 rubber hoses and 10 clips.

'''IMPORTANT!!'''

The clips should be used as follows: the 3 black ones must go on the T junction; the 2 larger grey are for the thermostat housing (bottom and side hoses); 1 medium sized grey clip is for the thermostat top hose and the remaining 4 small grey are for the other junctions.

Then you need the interconnections: with the aluminium pipe you need to make part 1 (90 mm long), part 2 (60 mm long) and part 3 (45 mm long). I actually fitted a plug to junction 1 to achieve a tidier coolant draining, but this require some TIG welding and is not necessary.

===Working on the car===

Following the Service Manual instructions, drain the coolant circuit, then remove the return pipe and the short rubber hose connected to the engine main coolant rail (1 clip at the bottom + 1 clip at the top). You remove also the outlet hose (1 clip at the engine outlet spout + 1 clip at the bottom pipe, you need to loosen the pipe mount to remove the hose). Once removed the return pipe you can undo the coolant rail: 2 (tight) bolts below the rail and the oil dipstick bolt holding the thermostat housing. I did this without the manifold in place and it was simple, but I seriously doubt it is that easy with the manifold on.... once loosened the coolant rail you can remove the thermostat housing. You open it (3 bolts) and replace the old thermostat with the ring PEL000040. I enlarged the bypass duct inside the housing from 12 to14.5 mm to improve the heater flow. All 3 gaskets should be replaced, to minimize the risk of leaks. Apply silicone lubricant on the O-rings, then fit housing + coolant rail back in.

===Modifying the Kit===

This part is the most important of all: cutting the Kit hoses to make it fit. I prefer not to give measures about where you should cut the hoses because, on another car, the lengths required could be slightly different. you can take the photos as a guideline, but BE CAREFUL as, once you cut a hose too short, you are into trouble. My advice is to leave 2 cm extra hose as a safety margin, use no clips and then cut again where needed after having tried to make it fit. To achieve a clean rubber cut, you can insert the remaining of the aluminium tube where you need to do the cut. Hoses H and D need no cutting.

*Once reassembled, the PCH001190 kit should look like this:
[[Image:EliseKit.jpg|thumb|left|Click to Enlarge]]
{{clr}}

*Here below is the kit and the two parts it is going to replace:
[[Image:compare.jpg|thumb|left|Click to Enlarge]]
{{clr}}

===Refitting===

The original jubilee clips can be used to secure the new setup to the car, leaving the remaining clip (originally there were 2 on the top return hose) to secure hose H to pipe 1.

If a drain take off is present, all clips could be tightened, otherwise leave the bottom pipe disconnected to allow system flushing. Personally, I recommend a good and repeated flush of the whole coolant system with clean water, especially if a different type of coolant is going to be used. Refill the circuit with coolant, check all the junctions for leaks and bleed the system as on the Service Manual.

*Below there are some photos of the PRRT fitted to my car.

<gallery>
Image:ThermoF.jpg|Click to Enlarge

Image:ThermoG.jpg|Click to Enlarge

Image:ThermoH.jpg|Click to Enlarge

Image:ThermoL.jpg|Click to Enlarge
</gallery>

=== See Also ===

'''There are several ways to set up your cooling system'''

'''PLEASE ADD INFO'''
<gallery>
Image:robstevens.gif|Rob Stevens Setup
Image:stevebutts.gif|Steve Butts Setup
Image:liamcrilly.gif|Liam Crilly's Setup
</gallery>

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/PRT

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Fit a PRRT

2007-08-28T12:56:21Z

Liam: /* See Also */

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:DIY]]

===Parts Required and Suppliers===
Using Land-Rover Kit (PCH001190):

2 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - [http://www.midlandperformancecentre.co.uk/tuning/product.asp?cn=3005&scn=1052&scn2=2285&p=1955 Midland Performance Centre]

1 off 32mm diameter x 100mm length alloy hose joiners (£6.00) - [http://www.midlandperformancecentre.co.uk/tuning/product.asp?cn=3005&scn=1052&scn2=2286&p=1969 Midland Performance Centre]

Using MG-Rover Kit (PCH003320):

1 off 32mm diameter x 50mm length alloy hose joiners (£5.00 each) - [http://www.midlandperformancecentre.co.uk/tuning/product.asp?cn=3005&scn=1052&scn2=2285&p=1955 Midland Performance Centre]

or cut a piece from the aluminium tube discarded from the original system

===How To Fit===

With thanks to SELOC Member [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=elise_s1 Elise_S1]

The following page explains how I fitted the kit PCH001190 designed for the Land Rover Freelander to my Lotus Elise S1. Although I tried to use a setup which is as close as possible to the one used by Rover for the late MG-TF, this is NOT an official upgrade and, if you decide to copy it, I accept no liability for any possible consequences.

As my car is a standard late S1, the guide is for a similar car. Although the setup is compatible with all the K powered Elises and derivatives, some models may need some corrections because of their different cooling circuits. Early Elise S1, all cars with air conditioning and cars with aftermarket oil/water heat exchanger do need a slightly different setup.

'''To install the remote thermostat the following parts are required:'''

*1 Land Rover Freelander Thermostat Kit part PCH001190

*1 Spacer to use instead of the old thermostat part PEL000040

*3 Thermostat housing gaskets (2 O-rings + 1 inner gasket)

*40 cm aluminium pipe, OD 32 mm ID 28 mm

*8 lt of coolant fluid (I used a red OAT product, as recommended by the manifacturer)

[[Image:LRstatSEC.jpg|thumb|left|Click to Enlarge]]
{{clr}}

First thing to do is take apart the PCH001190 and getting familiar with all its components. You will have 5 rubber hoses and 10 clips.

'''IMPORTANT!!'''

The clips should be used as follows: the 3 black ones must go on the T junction; the 2 larger grey are for the thermostat housing (bottom and side hoses); 1 medium sized grey clip is for the thermostat top hose and the remaining 4 small grey are for the other junctions.

Then you need the interconnections: with the aluminium pipe you need to make part 1 (90 mm long), part 2 (60 mm long) and part 3 (45 mm long). I actually fitted a plug to junction 1 to achieve a tidier coolant draining, but this require some TIG welding and is not necessary.

===Working on the car===

Following the Service Manual instructions, drain the coolant circuit, then remove the return pipe and the short rubber hose connected to the engine main coolant rail (1 clip at the bottom + 1 clip at the top). You remove also the outlet hose (1 clip at the engine outlet spout + 1 clip at the bottom pipe, you need to loosen the pipe mount to remove the hose). Once removed the return pipe you can undo the coolant rail: 2 (tight) bolts below the rail and the oil dipstick bolt holding the thermostat housing. I did this without the manifold in place and it was simple, but I seriously doubt it is that easy with the manifold on.... once loosened the coolant rail you can remove the thermostat housing. You open it (3 bolts) and replace the old thermostat with the ring PEL000040. I enlarged the bypass duct inside the housing from 12 to14.5 mm to improve the heater flow. All 3 gaskets should be replaced, to minimize the risk of leaks. Apply silicone lubricant on the O-rings, then fit housing + coolant rail back in.

===Modifying the Kit===

This part is the most important of all: cutting the Kit hoses to make it fit. I prefer not to give measures about where you should cut the hoses because, on another car, the lengths required could be slightly different. you can take the photos as a guideline, but BE CAREFUL as, once you cut a hose too short, you are into trouble. My advice is to leave 2 cm extra hose as a safety margin, use no clips and then cut again where needed after having tried to make it fit. To achieve a clean rubber cut, you can insert the remaining of the aluminium tube where you need to do the cut. Hoses H and D need no cutting.

*Once reassembled, the PCH001190 kit should look like this:
[[Image:EliseKit.jpg|thumb|left|Click to Enlarge]]
{{clr}}

*Here below is the kit and the two parts it is going to replace:
[[Image:compare.jpg|thumb|left|Click to Enlarge]]
{{clr}}

===Refitting===

The original jubilee clips can be used to secure the new setup to the car, leaving the remaining clip (originally there were 2 on the top return hose) to secure hose H to pipe 1.

If a drain take off is present, all clips could be tightened, otherwise leave the bottom pipe disconnected to allow system flushing. Personally, I recommend a good and repeated flush of the whole coolant system with clean water, especially if a different type of coolant is going to be used. Refill the circuit with coolant, check all the junctions for leaks and bleed the system as on the Service Manual.

*Below there are some photos of the PRRT fitted to my car.

<gallery>
Image:ThermoF.jpg|Click to Enlarge

Image:ThermoG.jpg|Click to Enlarge

Image:ThermoH.jpg|Click to Enlarge

Image:ThermoL.jpg|Click to Enlarge
</gallery>

=== See Also ===

'''There are several ways to set up your cooling system'''

'''PLEASE ADD INFO'''
<gallery>
Image:robstevens.gif|Rob Stevens' Setup
Image:stevebutts.gif|Steve Butt's Setup
Image:liamcrilly.gif|Liam Crilly's Setup
</gallery>

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/PRT

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

File:Liamcrilly.gif

2007-08-28T12:55:09Z

Liam:

How to Rebuild a Brembo Caliper

2007-06-02T12:39:19Z

Liam:

Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade

===Pre-Warning===

'''Before you start taking things apart, first ensure that your calipers are servicable.'''
First make sure that you can remove the tiny grub screw that you can see in this photo. It needs a 4.5mm allen key which is a fairly unusual size.

[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]

Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by 10-12mm. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw. The easiest solution is to take an angle grinder to the boss and remove the excess material. Cut the boss flush with the top of the grub screw. The heat generated by this also helps to free up the screw.

The other part to check is the 13mm bolt that holds the handbrake arm to the caliper. Make sure that this loosens ass it has a tendency to go soft and shear off.

Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.

===Repair===

The service manual claims the [[Brembo Caliper]]s fitted to the rear [[brakes]] of the Elise are not fully serviceable.

These instructions were developed by disassembling and reassembling many calipers and are not perfect.

The Lotus Elise rear caliper is sometimes criticised as being too small. The rear caliper can be machined to accept a 38mm or even a 40mm piston and sleeve.

For the 38mm piston, you will need a Brembo 38mm seal, part number 05.5955.57

For the 40mm piston, you will need a Brembo 40mm seal, part number 05.5955.58

This conversion still allows the use of all the other standard size parts that come in the KC-83017 kit.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_6.JPG]]

== Procedure ==
=== Disassembly ===

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_7.JPG]]

Unscrew piston as far as it will go using either a windback tool or stout needle nose pliers, one tip in each hole. Push in and rotate counter clockwise.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_8.JPG]]

As the dust boot stretches, pull it out of the groove.
The piston can be pried out with two screwdrivers. An internal snap ring holds it tightly, so be prepared to try a few times and apply some effort. Before it pops, it will feel “springy.” When the snap ring does pop, the piston will go flying, so put a rag over it to keep it from falling. You can use a socket on each side to support the screwdriver.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_9.JPG]]

Here’s the prying position (without the dust boot and rag). From this image you can get a perspective of how far up the piston will rise without coming out. The piston can also be removed with air pressure into the brake line supply inlet.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_10.JPG]]

Once the piston is out, do not turn the caliper over. There are several loose pieces inside that may fall out.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_11.JPG]]

Remove the dust boot.
With a 4mm allen key, remove the screw. This screw has an O-ring around the head, so do not reach in and use pliers. It is also held in with thread lock glue, so it feels a little stuck before it comes loose. It may also drag the whole way out. Use the proper allen key, since the metal is soft and you’ll easily round the hole.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_12.JPG]]

After the screw is removed, the threaded disc can be unscrewed and removed. This disc pushes on the inside of the piston when pulling on the parking brake.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_13.JPG]]

Without the disc, a ball bearing race, a snap ring, and two washers will be visible in the bore. Turn the caliper over to remove them.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_14.JPG]]

Here’s what will fall out:-

Ball bearing

Flat washer

Wave washer

Snap ring

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_15.JPG]]

Removing the worm thread shaft is next.
Look down into the bore for the internal snap ring. It has several tabs bent to point up at you. With a flat screwdriver, pry the tabs at the ends of the snap ring towards the center of the bore and disengage it from the groove in the wall.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_16.JPG]]

Now the worm shaft (and snap ring) can be removed. Notice the tabs.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_17.JPG]]

Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper. You will need a 4.5mm allen key which is an uncommon size.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_18.JPG]]

Remove the parking brake lever, parking brake shaft dust seal, and push the shaft into the caliper body.
The flat washer tends to stick in the caliper, be sure not to miss it.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_19.JPG]]

Remove the ball bearing drive plate, the needle bearing, and the flat washer.
Remove the old piston seal.

=== Reassembly ===

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_20.JPG]]

Install a new parking brake drive plate shaft O-ring, if needed.
Reinstall the flat washer, needle bearing, and ball bearing drive plate of the parking brake in the caliper body. Make note of where the three ball bearings are; you will need to mate them with the driven plate later.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_21.JPG]]

The internal assembly will go back together in this order:-

Wave washer

Flat washer

Ball bearing

Cone screw

Use some thread lock on the O-ringed screw on reassembly.
Install a new O-ring on the screw.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_22.JPG]]

To reassemble the caliper, insert assembly into the piston and snap the {coat-hanger quality) internal snap ring into the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_23.JPG]]

The snap ring groove is just inside the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_24.JPG]]

Take the internal snap ring with the tabs, point the tabs downward, and use the tabs to clip the snap ring into the bottom
edge of the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_25.JPG]]

Then screw the worm shaft into the piston as far as it will go.
Install the new piston seal.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_26.JPG]]

Stretch the new dust boot over the bottom of the assembled piston, leaving the lower edge of the boot to hang down. You will have to hold the piston over the bore and insert the boot lip into the groove all the way around before inserting the piston into the bore. The boot should look even (no bumps) if done properly.
Make note of where the ball bearing detents are.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_27.JPG]]

This is the tricky part. With the boot in the groove, centre the piston to begin pushing it into the bore. Use a c-clamp with a socket covering the parking brake shaft sticking out the bottom, making sure the clamp is pushing the piston straight down. Besides the normal problem of getting past the boot lip and the seal, the driven plate detents and the drive plate ball bearings must mate, otherwise you will not be able to push the piston down far enough for the internal snap ring to find it’s groove.
If the clamp seems to come to a stop and you have not heard the snap ring snap into place, try to rotate the clamp to rotate the piston and line up the ball bearing detents.
A second way is to temporarily attach the parking brake lever under the clamp to rotate the lever, which will move the drive ball bearings back and forth to line everything up.
Rotate the lever clockwise when facing the lever, as this also screws the threaded shaft into the cone shaped washer (ensuring that the piston is not bottoming on the parking brake adjustment.)
In any case, the piston will seem to be very low, lower than the dust boot wrinkles, before the snap ring engages. If the snap ring does not engage, the parking brake system has nothing to push on to “disengage.”

Hint 1: A G-clamp may not provide sufficient force to engage the snap ring. It may take 2-3 tons of pressure on a bench press before you hear the snap ring click into position.

Hint 2: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.

When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.
Using the parking brake lever, rotate the parking brake shaft while looking down into the stop peg boss. You will see the detent in the foot of the worm shaft. Screw in the stop peg so it engages the detent.
You can check the proper operation by now rotating the parking brake lever again (which will push the piston out) and then rotating the opposite direction (which should slightly pull the piston back in.) With larger swings of the lever, this becomes a ratcheting action, so repeated back and forth with the lever will eventually move the piston further and further out; if the snap ring is engaged properly, the piston will slightly retract after each lever movement.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_28.JPG]]
[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_29.JPG]]

Once installed, the new 38mm calipers look exactly like the standard system.

Notes:
The brakes usually have to bled twice. It seems that air is trapped in the piston (the recess for the threaded parking brake adjustment rod) that isn’t flushed out during caliper installation.
The O-ring screw is a 10-32 thread. About 10% of the time it breaks when trying to remove it.

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Normal running temperature

2007-05-16T11:51:22Z

Liam:

Listed below are temperature ranges from by SELOC members from their [[stack]] display within the car.

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Model !! Engine !! Modifications from Standard !! Motorway (70mph) type crusing range (deg C)
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 89-91
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 85-86
|-
| S1 || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Rover PRT 82° stat || 80-81
|}

== Fan ==
The service manual states the fans at the front should automatically switch on when the coolant temperature rises above 100°C. The temperature should then fall and the fan switches when the temperature drops below 90°C.

== Temperature senders ==
The S1 has two temperature senders: brown (sends to ECU), blue (sends to dash). The blue temperature sender is notoriously unreliable and often fails, resulting in temperature readings approx 10°C lower than reality. The blue sender is also a "single wire" type which is affected by electrical load. In most cases, a 1°C rise in temperature can be seen when turning on each item of electrical equipment, e.g. headlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers.

The S2 (Rover engine) has a single (black) temperature sender for both ECU and dash.

The S2 (Toyota engine) has ???

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]

Normal running temperature

2007-05-16T11:49:11Z

Liam:

Listed below are temperature ranges from by SELOC members from their [[stack]] display within the car.

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 cellspacing=0
! Model !! Engine !! Modifications from Standard !! Motorway (70mph) type crusing range (deg C)
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || || 89-91
|-
| S2 111S || 1.8 Rover 'K' || Eliseparts Hi-Pressure Alu rad || 85-86
|}

== Fan ==
The service manual states the fans at the front should automatically switch on when the coolant temperature rises above XX deg C. The temperature should then fall with the fans being switched off at YY deg C.

== Temperature senders ==
The S1 has two temperature senders: brown (sends to ECU), blue (sends to dash). The blue temperature sender is notoriously unreliable and often fails, resulting in temperature readings approx 10°C lower than reality. The blue sender is also a "single wire" type which is affected by electrical load. In most cases, a 1°C rise in temperature can be seen when turning on each item of electrical equipment, e.g. headlights, heater fan, windscreen wipers.

The S2 (Rover engine) has a single (black) temperature sender for both ECU and dash.

The S2 (Toyota engine) has ???

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]

How to Rebuild a Brembo Caliper

2007-05-14T13:45:53Z

Liam:

Lotus Elise Rear Caliper Rebuild and Upgrade

===Pre-Warning===

'''Before you start beware that your calipers may not be servicable. This fact hinges on one tiny little grub screw that you can see in this photo'''

[[Image:grubscrew.JPG]]

Unfortunately the grub screw sits deeply recesed in the boss of the caliper by approx 10mm. By the time your calipers reach an age where they would befefit from new seals, the thread in the boss has become so corroded that it's nigh-on impossible to remove the grub screw.

I have ended up breaking two different types of allen key in my attenpts to release the grub screws. Given a thread tap, a blow torch, lots of plusgas and even more patience, I *may* have been able to remove then... but I doubt it.

This appears to be a serious design flaw of the Brembo calipers. I will now be ordering 2 new ones (ouch!) and the first thing I'll do with them is take an angle grinder to the boss so that there is no recessed thread to "go bad". The alternative is to put a bolt in the recess to protect the thread.

Bear in mind that it's a straightforward job to refurb the sliders but examine your calipers carefully before attempting to replace the piston seals.

===Repaire===

The service manual claims the [[Brembo Caliper]]s fitted to the rear [[brakes]] of the Elise are not fully serviceable.

These instructions were developed by disassembling and reassembling many calipers and are not perfect.

The Lotus Elise rear caliper is sometimes criticised as being too small. The rear caliper can be machined to accept a 38mm or even a 40mm piston and sleeve.

For the 38mm piston, you will need a Brembo 38mm seal, part number 05.5955.57

For the 40mm piston, you will need a Brembo 40mm seal, part number 05.5955.58

This conversion still allows the use of all the other standard size parts that come in the KC-83017 kit.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_6.JPG]]

== Procedure ==
=== Disassembly ===

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_7.JPG]]

Unscrew piston as far as it will go using either a windback tool or stout needle nose pliers, one tip in each hole. Push in and rotate counter clockwise.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_8.JPG]]

As the dust boot stretches, pull it out of the groove.
The piston can be pried out with two screwdrivers. An internal snap ring holds it tightly, so be prepared to try a few times and apply some effort. Before it pops, it will feel “springy.” When the snap ring does pop, the piston will go flying, so put a rag over it to keep it from falling. You can use a socket on each side to support the screwdriver.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_9.JPG]]

Here’s the prying position (without the dust boot and rag). From this image you can get a perspective of how far up the piston will rise without coming out. The piston can also be removed with air pressure into the brake line supply inlet.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_10.JPG]]

Once the piston is out, do not turn the caliper over. There are several loose pieces inside that may fall out.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_11.JPG]]

Remove the dust boot.
With a 4mm allen key, remove the screw. This screw has an O-ring around the head, so do not reach in and use pliers. It is also held in with thread lock glue, so it feels a little stuck before it comes loose. It may also drag the whole way out. Use the proper allen key, since the metal is soft and you’ll easily round the hole.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_12.JPG]]

After the screw is removed, the threaded disc can be unscrewed and removed. This disc pushes on the inside of the piston when pulling on the parking brake.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_13.JPG]]

Without the disc, a ball bearing race, a snap ring, and two washers will be visible in the bore. Turn the caliper over to remove them.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_14.JPG]]

Here’s what will fall out:-

Ball bearing

Flat washer

Wave washer

Snap ring

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_15.JPG]]

Removing the worm thread shaft is next.
Look down into the bore for the internal snap ring. It has several tabs bent to point up at you. With a flat screwdriver, pry the tabs at the ends of the snap ring towards the center of the bore and disengage it from the groove in the wall.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_16.JPG]]

Now the worm shaft (and snap ring) can be removed. Notice the tabs.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_17.JPG]]

Unscrew the hex stop peg in the boss of the caliper. You will need a 4.5mm allen key which is an uncommon size.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_18.JPG]]

Remove the parking brake lever, parking brake shaft dust seal, and push the shaft into the caliper body.
The flat washer tends to stick in the caliper, be sure not to miss it.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_19.JPG]]

Remove the ball bearing drive plate, the needle bearing, and the flat washer.
Remove the old piston seal.

=== Reassembly ===

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_20.JPG]]

Install a new parking brake drive plate shaft O-ring, if needed.
Reinstall the flat washer, needle bearing, and ball bearing drive plate of the parking brake in the caliper body. Make note of where the three ball bearings are; you will need to mate them with the driven plate later.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_21.JPG]]

The internal assembly will go back together in this order:-

Wave washer

Flat washer

Ball bearing

Cone screw

Use some thread lock on the O-ringed screw on reassembly.
Install a new O-ring on the screw.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_22.JPG]]

To reassemble the caliper, insert assembly into the piston and snap the {coat-hanger quality) internal snap ring into the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_23.JPG]]

The snap ring groove is just inside the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_24.JPG]]

Take the internal snap ring with the tabs, point the tabs downward, and use the tabs to clip the snap ring into the bottom
edge of the piston.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_25.JPG]]

Then screw the worm shaft into the piston as far as it will go.
Install the new piston seal.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_26.JPG]]

Stretch the new dust boot over the bottom of the assembled piston, leaving the lower edge of the boot to hang down. You will have to hold the piston over the bore and insert the boot lip into the groove all the way around before inserting the piston into the bore. The boot should look even (no bumps) if done properly.
Make note of where the ball bearing detents are.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_27.JPG]]

This is the tricky part. With the boot in the groove, centre the piston to begin pushing it into the bore. Use a c-clamp with a socket covering the parking brake shaft sticking out the bottom, making sure the clamp is pushing the piston straight down. Besides the normal problem of getting past the boot lip and the seal, the driven plate detents and the drive plate ball bearings must mate, otherwise you will not be able to push the piston down far enough for the internal snap ring to find it’s groove.
If the clamp seems to come to a stop and you have not heard the snap ring snap into place, try to rotate the clamp to rotate the piston and line up the ball bearing detents.
A second way is to temporarily attach the parking brake lever under the clamp to rotate the lever, which will move the drive ball bearings back and forth to line everything up.
Rotate the lever clockwise when facing the lever, as this also screws the threaded shaft into the cone shaped washer (ensuring that the piston is not bottoming on the parking brake adjustment.)
In any case, the piston will seem to be very low, lower than the dust boot wrinkles, before the snap ring engages. If the snap ring does not engage, the parking brake system has nothing to push on to “disengage.”

Hint: Sometimes you can't push on the brake lever arm with the C-clamp to insert piston, you need to take off the arm and push on casting using socket.

When the snap ring engages, reinstall the hex head stop peg.
Using the parking brake lever, rotate the parking brake shaft while looking down into the stop peg boss. You will see the detent in the foot of the worm shaft. Screw in the stop peg so it engages the detent.
You can check the proper operation by now rotating the parking brake lever again (which will push the piston out) and then rotating the opposite direction (which should slightly pull the piston back in.) With larger swings of the lever, this becomes a ratcheting action, so repeated back and forth with the lever will eventually move the piston further and further out; if the snap ring is engaged properly, the piston will slightly retract after each lever movement.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_28.JPG]]
[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_29.JPG]]

Once installed, the new 38mm calipers look exactly like the standard system.

Notes:
The brakes usually have to bled twice. It seems that air is trapped in the piston (the recess for the threaded parking brake adjustment rod) that isn’t flushed out during caliper installation.
The O-ring screw is a 10-32 thread. About 10% of the time it breaks when trying to remove it.

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Brembo Caliper

2007-05-14T12:32:41Z

Liam:

1. Give me a little Brake

2. Ugly Duckling Brakes

3. The Little Brakes That Could

What do a 1988 Renault Alliance, 1992 front wheel drive Dodge Monaco, a Lotus Elise, and a non-ABS Gen 1/2 Dodge Viper have in common? Would you believe the rear brakes?

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_1.JPG]]

When Bob Lutz, Tom Gale and Francois Castaing created their vision of a supercar, they explored the contents of the Renault parts bin, where Castaing had been technical director for motorsport programs. Renault used a Brembo single piston disc brake caliper that cleverly incorporated the parking brake and eliminated the need and weight of an additional secondary brake. The unit is small and compact, and actually weighs less than the aluminum 4-piston Brembo caliper on the front of a Viper.

To reach over the much thicker Viper brake rotor, the casting was stretched almost a half inch, but otherwise the mounting hardware, internal parts, the 36 mm diameter brake piston, and all replacement rubber parts were the same.

Internal parts?

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_2.JPG]]

There are quite a few internal mechanical parts to enable the parking brake to engage and disengage, clamp tightly on the rotor, and to advance the piston when the brake pads wear. For smooth operation and long life, the parking brake arm rotation advances the piston against a needle bearing supported thrust washer. Pulling on the parking brake handle rolls three ball bearings up internal ramps to provide tremendous mechanical leverage and act like small doorstops to keep the parking brake engaged. The rod that actually forces the brake piston against the pad and rotor is threaded so that each application also adjusts the system for pad wear. The rod rotates easily by rolling on a 6-ball caged bearing. All of these parts are internal, bathed in brake fluid, and held captive by a snap ring in the piston and another deep in the casting, requiring both the caliper and piston to be significantly deeper than a non-parking brake caliper.

The caliper is mounted to the upright with two bolts. The larger M10 hex head bolt (15mm socket) rides inside a greased, steel sleeve to keep the caliper floating perpendicular to the rotor and to absorb the torque when applying the brakes. A smaller M8 socket head cap screw (6mm allen) also runs through a steel sleeve, but with a rubber guide and an internal Teflon slide.

Together they align the caliper for even pad wear and allow the caliper to slide side-to-side as the brakes are applied and released.

There are some particular service concerns to pay attention to. The intricate internal parking brake parts are susceptible to rust and may experience some sticking when water inevitably sneaks into the system. Flush your brake fluid regularly.

Also, the rubber boot protecting the inner end of the greased steel sleeve is frequently abraded by brake pad material, and without protection from the elements, the side-to-side sliding action can get rough and cause unusual pad wear. As with any brakes, track use will often harden the piston dust boot, allowing road grit between the piston and seal. When the dust boot can’t protect the piston, leaks are only a matter of time.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_3.JPG]]

So what can you do if your calipers need a little TLC? Don’t look for help from the service manual, there are no instructions! Your friendly Dodge parts manager can’t help either, since individual parts are not available. Your only option through Dodge is to purchase the complete caliper, which carries a list price of around $450.

== Servicing ==

'''UK Parts'''

A Brembo slider repair kit is available from Renault dealers (part number 7701205496) for £30+VAT. A piston seal kit is also available (part number?) and complete kits that include everything. Bleed nipples are 10mm and common with most Ford calipers (available from most motor factors).

'''US Parts'''

The Do-It-Yourself secret is to ask for Renault parts! If you need a dust boot, look for Auto Specialties part KC-83017 (about $6). For the mounting bolts, slide boots, and other external rubber parts, ask for the Mopar brake attaching kit PN 4423504 (about $70.) The OEM 36mm piston seal is Brembo part number BRE05.5955.56 (around $11.) For internal parts, purchase a remanufactured Dodge Monaco caliper for around $100 and transfer the parts needed over to your Viper caliper. Make sure you get the side you want – the left and right calipers are mirror images inside and out!

If you drive with the spirit that the Viper was intended, you may have noticed how often one or both of the front tires lock up and slide. Unfortunately, for all the engineering that Brembo put into the rear brakes, the Renault-size brake piston leaves the brake bias excessively towards the front. Testing in a 1994 RT/10 showed that with the front tires doing most of the work, braking performance was limited to a tepid 0.8 G’s before skidding. Not very super performance, is it?

== Upgrades ==

To improve a Viper’s stopping capability, you don’t need to spend thousands of dollars on massive 4-piston rear calipers, permanently cut up the rear suspension upright to make them fit, adjust them with an add-on proportioning valve, and give up your parking
brake… although it would look great (and weigh more!) The OEM calipers can be bored out to a larger size (just like an engine block) and the pistons can be sleeved to fit (as is done in auto restoration efforts.) The casting accommodates a “plus two”-size larger 40mm piston (Brembo parts come in even sizes, so 36mm to 38mm to 40mm is two steps), which increases the rear brake clamping force by 23%.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_4.JPG]]

This nicely complements the front brakes and allowed the same ’94 RT/10 to improve to over 1.0 G’s braking using the same brake hoses, pads, and mounting hardware. It is an easy two-three hour job for the DIY owner and retains the stock look, fits under the original wheel sizes and is externally undetectable. Best of all, the testament to “this is how Viper brakes should have been from the factory” is that they do not add points in the Viper Days Clas Matrix.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_5.JPG]]

The oldest Vipers are now approaching their 15th birthday, so it’s time to start preparing for the inevitable round of gathering hard-to-find parts. If you have any caliper questions, need sources for those small missing or broken brake parts, or are considering a rebuild or resize, share your questions and answers on the Viper Club website forums. My display name is Tom, F&L GoR and I’ll be happy to help. And yes I wish they looked nicer, but as ugly ducklings they can still do the job!

Original article Tom Hayden 1Oct06

== External links ==
* http://www.brembo.com/ENG

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Brembo Caliper

2007-05-14T12:31:59Z

Liam:

1. Give me a little Brake

2. Ugly Duckling Brakes

3. The Little Brakes That Could

What do a 1988 Renault Alliance, 1992 front wheel drive Dodge Monaco, a Lotus Elise, and a non-ABS Gen 1/2 Dodge Viper have in common? Would you believe the rear brakes?

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_1.JPG]]

When Bob Lutz, Tom Gale and Francois Castaing created their vision of a supercar, they explored the contents of the Renault parts bin, where Castaing had been technical director for motorsport programs. Renault used a Brembo single piston disc brake caliper that cleverly incorporated the parking brake and eliminated the need and weight of an additional secondary brake. The unit is small and compact, and actually weighs less than the aluminum 4-piston Brembo caliper on the front of a Viper.

To reach over the much thicker Viper brake rotor, the casting was stretched almost a half inch, but otherwise the mounting hardware, internal parts, the 36 mm diameter brake piston, and all replacement rubber parts were the same.

Internal parts?

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_2.JPG]]

There are quite a few internal mechanical parts to enable the parking brake to engage and disengage, clamp tightly on the rotor, and to advance the piston when the brake pads wear. For smooth operation and long life, the parking brake arm rotation advances the piston against a needle bearing supported thrust washer. Pulling on the parking brake handle rolls three ball bearings up internal ramps to provide tremendous mechanical leverage and act like small doorstops to keep the parking brake engaged. The rod that actually forces the brake piston against the pad and rotor is threaded so that each application also adjusts the system for pad wear. The rod rotates easily by rolling on a 6-ball caged bearing. All of these parts are internal, bathed in brake fluid, and held captive by a snap ring in the piston and another deep in the casting, requiring both the caliper and piston to be significantly deeper than a non-parking brake caliper.

The caliper is mounted to the upright with two bolts. The larger M10 hex head bolt (15mm socket) rides inside a greased, steel sleeve to keep the caliper floating perpendicular to the rotor and to absorb the torque when applying the brakes. A smaller M8 socket head cap screw (6mm allen) also runs through a steel sleeve, but with a rubber guide and an internal Teflon slide.

Together they align the caliper for even pad wear and allow the caliper to slide side-to-side as the brakes are applied and released.

There are some particular service concerns to pay attention to. The intricate internal parking brake parts are susceptible to rust and may experience some sticking when water inevitably sneaks into the system. Flush your brake fluid regularly.

Also, the rubber boot protecting the inner end of the greased steel sleeve is frequently abraded by brake pad material, and without protection from the elements, the side-to-side sliding action can get rough and cause unusual pad wear. As with any brakes, track use will often harden the piston dust boot, allowing road grit between the piston and seal. When the dust boot can’t protect the piston, leaks are only a matter of time.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_3.JPG]]

So what can you do if your calipers need a little TLC? Don’t look for help from the service manual, there are no instructions! Your friendly Dodge parts manager can’t help either, since individual parts are not available. Your only option through Dodge is to purchase the complete caliper, which carries a list price of around $450.

== Servicing ==

'''UK info'''
A Brembo slider repair kit is available from Renault dealers (part number 7701205496) for £30+VAT. A piston seal kit is also available (part number?) and complete kits that include everything. Bleed nipples are 10mm and common with most Ford calipers (available from most motor factors).

'''US info'''
The Do-It-Yourself secret is to ask for Renault parts! If you need a dust boot, look for Auto Specialties part KC-83017 (about $6). For the mounting bolts, slide boots, and other external rubber parts, ask for the Mopar brake attaching kit PN 4423504 (about $70.) The OEM 36mm piston seal is Brembo part number BRE05.5955.56 (around $11.) For internal parts, purchase a remanufactured Dodge Monaco caliper for around $100 and transfer the parts needed over to your Viper caliper. Make sure you get the side you want – the left and right calipers are mirror images inside and out!

If you drive with the spirit that the Viper was intended, you may have noticed how often one or both of the front tires lock up and slide. Unfortunately, for all the engineering that Brembo put into the rear brakes, the Renault-size brake piston leaves the brake bias excessively towards the front. Testing in a 1994 RT/10 showed that with the front tires doing most of the work, braking performance was limited to a tepid 0.8 G’s before skidding. Not very super performance, is it?

== Upgrades ==

To improve a Viper’s stopping capability, you don’t need to spend thousands of dollars on massive 4-piston rear calipers, permanently cut up the rear suspension upright to make them fit, adjust them with an add-on proportioning valve, and give up your parking
brake… although it would look great (and weigh more!) The OEM calipers can be bored out to a larger size (just like an engine block) and the pistons can be sleeved to fit (as is done in auto restoration efforts.) The casting accommodates a “plus two”-size larger 40mm piston (Brembo parts come in even sizes, so 36mm to 38mm to 40mm is two steps), which increases the rear brake clamping force by 23%.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_4.JPG]]

This nicely complements the front brakes and allowed the same ’94 RT/10 to improve to over 1.0 G’s braking using the same brake hoses, pads, and mounting hardware. It is an easy two-three hour job for the DIY owner and retains the stock look, fits under the original wheel sizes and is externally undetectable. Best of all, the testament to “this is how Viper brakes should have been from the factory” is that they do not add points in the Viper Days Clas Matrix.

[[Image:Brembo_Caliper_5.JPG]]

The oldest Vipers are now approaching their 15th birthday, so it’s time to start preparing for the inevitable round of gathering hard-to-find parts. If you have any caliper questions, need sources for those small missing or broken brake parts, or are considering a rebuild or resize, share your questions and answers on the Viper Club website forums. My display name is Tom, F&L GoR and I’ll be happy to help. And yes I wish they looked nicer, but as ugly ducklings they can still do the job!

Original article Tom Hayden 1Oct06

== External links ==
* http://www.brembo.com/ENG

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

S1 Wheel Options

2007-02-17T11:54:38Z

Liam: /* Speedline Magnesium */

==Lotus/OEM==

'''Please Add Your knowledge, Its Easy, Just Press [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title={{PAGENAMEE}}&action=edit EDIT]'''

Alloy wheel weight is very important to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight unsprung weight] of the car.

Stuck on what PCD or Centrebore means, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing read here].

If you want different wheels then listed below, you don't need pcd converting wheel-spacers like [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=165&products_id=219 Hubcentric Wheel Adaptors.] as 4x100pcd is already relatively common.

What you need is simple wheel spacers in 4x100pcd, centre bore 56.6 to make the offset a little more common. These spacers would fit Vauxhall Corsa, Astra F&G, Tigra, Vectra + OPEL Ascona and are therefore pretty easy to come by and quite cheap. [http://www.performancefx.net/wsvauxhall.htm example of cheap spacers]

===Lotus AWI 5-Spoke ===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 5.5J x 15
| r_size = 7.0J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET16
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 7.10kg
| r_weight = 8.80kg
| f_tyresize = 185/55R15 195/50R15
| r_tyresize = 205/50ZR16 225/45ZR16
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:5spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 5 Spoke OEM Wheels]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G0004F

Rear: A111G0005F
}}

===Lotus OZ 6-Spokes (111s, JPS, Type '49')===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 5.5J x 15
| r_size = 7.5J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET16
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 6.95kg
| r_weight = 9.40kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:|thumb|S1 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
111s are black. JPS and Type '49' are gold

Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G0013F (111s), A111G0029F (JPS, Type 49)

Rear: A111G0012F (111s), A111G0031F (JPS, Type 49)
}}

===Lotus Rimstock 12-Spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 5.5J x 15
| r_size = 7.0J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET10
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 7.56kg
| r_weight = 8.62kg
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:12spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 12 Spoke OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G6040F

Rear: A111G6041F
}}

===Lotus Victory (Sport160)===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6.0J x 15
| r_size = 8.0J x 16
| f_offset = ET10
| r_offset = ET10
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 8.32kg
| r_weight = 10.0kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16
| price = complete set GBP 599
| web =
| image = [[Image:silvervictories.jpg|thumb|S1 160 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G6032S (Grey), A111G6030S (Silver)

Rear: A111G6033S (Grey), A111G6031S (Silver)
}}

==S1 Exige==

===Lotus OEM===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = ?
| r_size = ?
| f_offset = ?
| r_offset = ?
| f_pcd = ?
| r_pcd = ?
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = ?
| r_weight = ?
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:|thumb|S1 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes =
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

==304R==

===Lotus OEM ===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = ?
| r_size = ?
| f_offset = ?
| r_offset = ?
| f_pcd = ?
| r_pcd = ?
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = ?
| r_weight = ?
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:|thumb|S1 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes =
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

==Aftermarket==

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]

===Speedline Magnesium===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6J x 15
| r_size = 8J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET10
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 5,5kg
| r_weight = 7kg
| f_tyresize = 185-195
| r_tyresize = 225-245
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:MAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}