TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Headlamp seals

2013-02-28T14:10:52Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* S1 */

===Headlamp seals===

==S1==

The headlamp seals are available from Lotus, but they are a bit pricy:

{| border="1"
|| A111U0166K ||Headlamp seal||£14.17 (Feb. 2013)
|}

The seals are made of lengths of 10mm diamater solid neoprene pipeing, superglued end to end
to make a giant O-ring.

The internal diameter of this ring should be 133mm, this will then be slightly tensioned
on the lip of the headlamp shell which is 143mm in diameter.

The raw material for these is available here

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-131-piping.aspx

You can remove the headlamp shells to replace the seals without removing the wheel on an S1 -
provided the bulbs are removed and you have standard ride hight shocks.

Brake discs

2012-10-22T09:03:09Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* Lotus Motorsport Brake Master Cylinder */

==Lotus OEM Fitment==
===S1 Elise===
====MMC====
When originally conceived and released, the Elise was supplied with Metal Matrix Composite (MMC) brake discs in combination with specific MMC brake pads. In general it is agreed that an MMC brake setup provides excellent brake performance and feel. The only real complaint seems to be that in wet weather the initial bite and performance is poor until the discs are dried by application. (From VIN 2260 a splash guard was introduced to reduce this problem - Source [http://www.elises.co.uk elises.co.uk])

MMC's differ from normal 'iron' discs in that the friction generated is mostly Adherent Friction rather than abrasive friction (a very good article on the nature of braking can be found [http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml here]). Essentially when the disc and pad come in contact some of the pad material transfers onto the disc surface, meaning the contact patches between the two are effectively the same material. As the disc rotates the bonds between the surfaces break and reform creating friction.

One of the benefits of Adherent Friction is that under normal use the discs last a very very long time. When braking the pads transfer their material to the surface of the disc, and it is this layer that is broken down, not the disc suface. Therefore the discs suffer very little wear. Under very heavy use however, the bonds between the pad and disc cannot reform as fast as they are broken down, meaning areas of the disc can loose the material layer entirely. When this happens the abrasive friction of the pad can score away the disc surface making it too rough to rebuild the original material layer. If this happens braking performance from the disc is permanently damaged and the disc must be replaced. For this reason car used on track or running semi-slick tyres may wish to use traditional setups.

MMC discs were also extremely light, reducing the unsprung weight of each wheel.

MMC brake systems were supplied up until VIN 3714, when increased part costs forced Lotus to introduce standard iron brake discs. Recently Lotus have had trouble sourcing replacement pads, and have offered discounted conversions to iron discs for affected customers. Third party replacement pads are available from [http://www.eliseparts.com Elise Parts] and [http://www.elise-shop.com Elise Shop]. These alternative pads are also said to improve wet weather performance. MMC discs are no longer available.

====Standard cast iron====
These discs followed the MMC disc as the standard brake disc for the S1 Elise from VIN 3715.

Although introduced for cost reasons, Iron disks are better able to withstand the high temperatures associated with track driving and provide better wet weather performance than the previous MMC disks.

The surface of the disks are solid, however they are internally vented to aid cooling. As the disk rotates at speed, centrifugal forces act on the air inside the vanes, forcing it outwards from the center. This action then draws fresh, cooler, air from the center of the disc through the internal vanes and out through the holes in the edges. (Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F)

[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|left|Vented S1 OEM Disc]]
{{clr}}

====Cross drilled====
The Sport 135, Sport 160, Sport 190 and 111S models were supplied with iron disks which were vented and cross drilled. Cross drilling is the name given to drilling holes through the disc. This has a number of advantages:
* The holes allow for better cooling by drawing more air into the internal vanes.
* The edges of the holes clean pad surface which can provide increased brake 'bite'.
* The holes prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc surface
* The holes reduce the weight of the disk, and therefore its inertia and the unsprung weight.

(Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F)

[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|left|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disc]]
{{clr}}

===S1 Exige, 340R===
The Lotus Series 1 Exige and 340R, were fitted with the same cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions described above.
(Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F)

===S2 Elise and Exige===
Series 2 Elises are fitted with 288mm vented iron discs.

The discs on the S2 are different from those one the S1. This is due to the S1 iron discs being a copy of the original MMC discs and therefore an uncoventional size. S2's were shipped as standard with plain discs, with cross drilled versions being available as an option. Later S2's were shipped with the cross drilled discs as standard.

The S2 discs feature longer, curved internal flow passages which increase the disc stability and reduce hot spot formation. The revised hole pattern has been specified to complement the new vane arrangement.

The discs are not handed, so the same disc is used on the right and left hand sides of the car. The cooling air flow through the left and right discs is identical and the flow rate is purely a result of pressure differential between the centre of the disc and its rim; the shape of the vanes and the direction of rotation does not affect the flow rate significantly.

Some noise from the brakes themselves is to be expected but there is a fix to stop brake pads banging in the calipers.

===Vauxhall VX220/Opel Speedster===

VX/Speedster discs are also 288mm as on the S2, but there are some differences:

* hubs are 5 stud
* use a bigger center bore
* use a slightly different offset (about 1 to 2mm) because the VX220 uses a different bearing pack. (uprights are identical to the S2 though)
* are almost the same thickness as S2 discs (25mm vs. 26mm), but have a much thicker surface and as a result a much smaller air-gap between the disc surfaces.

The last point makes the VX220 discs significantly heavier than S2 discs (around 750G to 1 Kg each).

The thicker surface should give them a little more heat capacity, but also makes it more difficult for them to shed the heat again.

VX220 discs are actually taken from existing GM cars (Vauxhall/SAAB), eg. Vauxhall Vectra V6 2.5 front discs, and as such they can be obtain from many regular car-parts stores are very low prices.

==Lotus Europa Disc Brakes==

288mm Vented Discs with [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system ABS]

This is currently unconfirmed - Press the 'Edit' link to add your knowledge!

==Elise Upgrade Options==

===Lotus Motorsport===

====Lotus Motorsport Brake Bias Valve====
Lotus Motorsport Brake Bias Valve, as used on the Elise S2 Sport 190 and VX220 Sprint. This allow the front/rear brake balance to be adjusted.
(Lotus Part Number:ALS1J6012F)
[[Image:ALS1J6002_3F.JPG|thumb|left|Lotus Motorsport AP 4 Pot Calipers ]]
[[Image:brakebias.JPG|thumb|left|Lotus Motorsport Brake Bias Valve]]
{{Clr}}

====Lotus Motorsport Brake Master Cylinder====
(Lotus Part Number: ALS1J6010F)
Actually available only through Maidstone Sports Cars who gets small batches from AP. 295 GBP.

====Lotus Offical upgrade kit for the S2====
Lotus Motorsport supplied bolt on kit that comes with 2 x AP 4 pot alloy calipers with Pagid RS14 Pads and 2 x alloy bells with discs.
(Lotus Part Number:ALS3J0040F)

From Lotus Motorsport:

Fittings are also included.
Track Use Only

The pads are 16mm thick with an area of 43.2cm2 and are Pagid RS14 ceramic friction material.

They are full race pads with a medium to high friction value.

The discs are 310mm outside diameter and 28mm thick and weigh 4.9kg

The Caliper is a 2 piece aluminium alloy body with 38.10mm diameter piston bores. Weight is 2.3kg

Designed to fit the following cars using a 16inch Front wheel:

- Elise S2 (with OZ wheels + 3mm spacer)
- Elise 111R - with Exige S2/Forged Alloy wheels
- Exige S2 - direct fitment

This kit will not fit Elise S1 or Exige S1.

Lotus recommend use with braided brake hoses

Lotus Part Number:ALS3J0040F

Price £1,762.50 inc VAT

[[Image:brakeupgrade1.JPG|thumb|left|Upgrade Caliper and Discs]][[Image:brakeupgrade2.JPG|thumb|left|Upgrade bolts]][[Image:brakeupgrade3.JPG|thumb|left|Upgrade Pads]] [[Image:APBigBrakeCaliper.jpg|thumb|left|Upgrade Caliper]][[Image:APBigBrakeCaliper2.jpg|thumb|left|Upgrade Caliper and Disc]]
{{Clr}}

===EliseParts.com===
[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]

Eliseparts aluminum belled disks for S1 or S2 have custom bells, the rotors are OEM by Hispec/EBC starting at 26mm with min thickness 24mm when grooves have worn away. Excellent with Pagid RS14 pads for up to 200bhp track and race with no problems running 60 min endurance races. Disks last around 36 track hours on the front and 72 track hours on the rear.

===Elise-Shop.com===
[http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9 www.Elise-Shop.com]

[[Image:EliseS1WEB.jpg|Elise-Shop.com bespoke Motorsport brake discs.]]

'''Elise-Shop.com bespoke Motorsport brake discs.''' 

These cross drilled and grooved discs are specifically designed for use on the Lotus Elise S1/S2, Exige S1/S2, 340R and Vauxhall VX220. 
The material mixture has been designed to deliver optimum performance when combined with Pagid RS42 or Pagid RS14 pads.
 
These are the recommended choice for heavy trackday use and racing. 

[[Image:S2MSportGroove.jpg|Elise-Shop.com bespoke Motorsport brake discs.]] 

'''Elise-Shop.com bespoke Motorsport brake discs.''' 

This is the lower cost version of our bespoke Motorsport rotors. 
These rotors are grooved only. Although casted with the same material mixture, these discs are recommended for fast-road and trackday use. 
We recommend to use these discs with Pagid RS42 or RS14 brake pads.

===Plans Motorsport===
[http://www.plansmotorsport.com/showroom/components/ Plans Motorsports]
Content to be added! Press the 'Edit' link to add your knowledge!

===EBC===
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/

These are budget brake discs and are ideal if you are looking for good fast road performance but you don't want to spend thousands of pounds on upgrading your braking system.

'''EBC Sport (Drilled & Slotted)'''

[[Image:EBC_Gold_Discs.jpg|thumb|]]

Wide aperture grooves
Special disc alloys UNIQUE to EBC
Dimple hole construction
Balanced geometry

The wide slot draws cool air across the pad surface keeping pads and discs cooler. They also expel dust, dirt and hot gases better than fine slots which eventually fill with rust and scale.

The blind drilled holes are there to break down surface gases when braking hard from speed but do not weaken the cross section of the disc as can happen with discs that are drilled all the way through, thereby lessening the chance of the discs cracking due to heavy use.

These discs are standard size OEM replacements with a cosmetic surface coating that helps prevent unsightly rust, however the coating will soon go and the un-braked surfaces of the disc will rust.

The grooved and drilled design means the pads and disks run cooler but the surface area reduction means braking efficiency will be reduced unless the brake pads are upgraded to a higher friction compound to compensate. So if you add extra friction to better cooling you will have better brakes.

Extra benefits of drilled and grooved discs is the effect the slots have on maintaining a flat smooth pad surface during the pads wear life. The slots encourage the pads to wear with a more flat pattern and the "Ribbing" common with non slotted rotors does not appear. This removes the "Record groove" effect of pads on plain discs, particularly around the outer edge and helps pads maintain better contact area with the disk through their life.

'''EBC Ultimax Black Anodised discs'''

[[Image:EBC_Ultimax_Discs.jpg|thumb|]]

EBC Ultimax discs offer much quieter braking and feature a special paint process to prevent corrosion.

'''EBC Sport Brake Pads'''
Sport & Premium Street Brakes

[[Image:EBC_Green_Stuff.jpg|thumb|]]

These are budget pads and o.k. for road use. They have a high initial brake effect giving confidence from first application of the brake pedal. This pad does not create much brake dust and is more easily washed off than most.

===HiSpec Motorsport===
[http://www.hispecmotorsport.co.uk/lotus.htm HiSpec Motorsport]
Content to be added! Press the 'Edit' link to add your knowledge!

Dont email them - phone them instead!

==Common Questions==

===Pads sticking to the disc===

The unservoed brakes on the S1 were criticized for not having enough initial bite when first applied, so Lotus used higher "grab" pads on the S2 to improve this. A byproduct of these pads is they tend to stick to the disc over a period of time, in damp or humid conditions this can happen within a couple of hours. This is something that affects the S1 as well but not to the same extent. Normally the sticking is limited to a clunk on pulling away, but with wet weather or if the car has recently been washed, the sticking can be quite severe. This however is not a problem its just something you just need to be aware of, it is also just another case of [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/TADTS TADTS]

==Other sources of information==
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disc Brakes]

[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disc Brakes]

[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disc Brakes]

[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disc Brakes]

The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System by Carroll Smith: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:VX220]]

Nitron racing shocks

2011-03-02T19:42:58Z

Lo Spocchioso:

'''Introduction'''

Nitron are makers of after market dampers for many performance cars. They make aftermarket and some OEM units for the Juno, the Elise, Exige, 340r from Lotus, the new Caparo T1, Caterhams, Radicals etc, and can give impressive results over OEM setups.

Nitron dampers combine outstanding performance with exquisite product design. Whether for road or track, on two wheels or four, NITRON have the suspension kit that offers fade free operation lap after lap.

The NTR has evolved from NITRONs fully adjustable race dampers, with developments being incorporated into the latest products. So as a result of the modular design, the top end components are included right throughout the Nitron range.

All NITRON dampers are gas monotube shim type with a high pressure gas charge. Couple this with a large piston area and an all alloy construction and you get an ultra low friction damper with excellent heat dissipation properties, ensuring total reliability and fade resistance.

'''Lotus-suitable Product Range'''

As of early 2010, the NTR Line up consists of 6 different products:

- NSS Street Series - a new addition to Nitron's range from early 2010.

- NTR Fast Road

- NTR Track Day

- NTR Track Day Pro

- NTR Race

- NTR Race Pro

- NTR SCCA Racer (US only)

Each product is tailored to suit a certain type of driving, but within that they can be tailored to your car. So for example, a Fast Road damper for use on a Series 1 would have different setup to one for a heavier Series 2 car.

'''Nitron NTR features'''

- Lightweight alloy design

- Fully CNC billet machined and screwed together, no welding

- Fully titanium and hard anodised (Defence Std. 03-26/2) so no corrosion

- Fully re-buildable and revalvable

- Infinite range of bump / rebound ratios, which can be changed at any time

- Low friction double point rod seal and double acting rod scraper system

- Separate nitrogen gas charge with fully floating aluminium piston design

- Teflon banded piston and floating piston; no metal to metal contact

- Highest quality Teflon lined spherical bearings

- Ride height adjustment via threaded damper body or adjustable end eye

- Spring preload adjusting c-spanner included with all kits

'''Choosing your dampers'''

As discussed on SELOC forums many times, there is no such thing as "the perfect damper". You could say there's always going to be the perfect damper for your specific use, but this might be the wrong choice for someone else.

The Nitron line is aimed to help people to make a well informed choice.

One of the best features of the Nitron NTR family is the ability to rebuild the damper to another spec. This means you can actually have the damper updated to your specific needs rather than being stuck and having to buy new dampers.

'''Nitron Street Series / NSS'''

Designed and developed by Nitron, the dampers use gas-monotube technology. This means they offer a distinct performance advantage over the many twin-tube based products on the market in this price bracket, in terms of weight, responsiveness, and fade resistance.

The Street Series kit has one damping adjuster that alters both bump and rebound damping. The dampers are billet machined from lightweight aluminium and come with spherical bearing ends and Nitron’s proven low friction sealing system.

As a more road orientated kit, the Nitron Street Series are valved and sprung accordingly to give optimal body control without any undue harshness. For customers using their car predominantly for track days Nitron would still recommend the legendary NTR range of dampers due to their better control and fade resistance.

http://www.elise-shop.com/images/NSS.jpg

'''The NTR Fast Road''' is designed for people who primarily use their cars on public roads and do a couple of track days a year.
For this use, they demand a top level high performance damper which should clearly has to be a benchmark in the market place.

Softer valving and springs guarantee a good level of comfort. These dampers can be used at factory standard ride heights or slightly lower.

http://www.elise-shop.com/images/medium/NRSNTRE_MED.jpg

'''NTR Track Day''' are primarily targeted at customers who are more focussed at track day performance than performance on public roads.
This doesn't mean the damper is of no use for public roads, but the focus is more towards track use.

Slightly stiffer Valving and stiffer spring rates combined with a lowered ride-height results in a benchmark damper for this application.

'''NTR Track Day Pro''' is a damper which is even more focussed on track day use.
Road use will be slightly compromised as valving and spring rates are brought up even further. Delivered with rear helpers and Eibach Motorsport springs as standard.

These dampers are for track day warriors who are not bothered about road performance. Off course, the dampers are usable on public roads, but they simply are not the best choice for road use.

Track day pro dampers can optionally be delivered as two way dampers with remote resevoirs.

http://www.elise-shop.com/images/medium/NRSNTRTDP_MED.jpg

If you are primarily using your car for track days and even racing your car, the Nitron NTR Race is the damper for you.

These dampers are equipped with helpers front and rear and come with Eibach Motorsport springs as standard.
Valving and spring rates are another step stiffer and options are to go for a three way ajustable kit with or without length adjustment.

Developed following millions of track miles with Nitron dampers on various race cars and using the feedback of several top level race drivers. There simply isn't a better track day damper on the market.

Top of the bill for the most demanding race or even track day user are the Nitron NTR Race PRO dampers.

These NTR's are another step forward as they come with 46mm pistons. (other NTR's come with 40mm pistons)

Available with one way adjustability where regulations demand the damper to be one way adjustable or three way adjustability where the regs allow you to.

Developed from the GT3 kit, this kit also has a 16mm piston rod which allows more oil transfer, thus better control of short damper motion, typically found under braking and corner exit under power.

These dampers are for people who demand the best available damper in the market place.

http://www.elise-shop.com/images/medium/NRSNTRRP3_MED.jpg

Last but not least are the SCCA Racer damper for the US market.

A hybrid unit based on the GT3 Full Race damper, which has a smaller diameter body to accept the original Lotus spring.

All features of the Race unit (fully CNC ported piston, adjustable length etc) this is a ‘fit and win’ solution. Available only in the US as a 3-way.

'''FAQs'''

- The early ones with 12-13 clicks on the damping adjuster (which is a knurled wheel on the side of the damper) aren't refurbishable. Date range for these??

- Fast Road NTRs cost about £1100+VAT+fitting

- NSSs cost about £600+VAT+fitting

- NTR rebuilding costs about £75+VAT per unit from Nitron and takes a couple of weeks

[[Category:Suspension]]

Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat

2010-06-17T19:00:41Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail) */

A '''Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat (PRRT)''', or sometimes just '''PRT''', is used to increase the amount of coolant flowing around the engine.
The PRRT has a bypass valve opening when the coolant pump is flowing too much coolant for the radiator circuit.
This valve is reducing pressure difference inside the whole circuit, achieving at the same time a more constant temperature inside the engine.

'''Note:''' The acronym '''PRT''' means '''Pressure Relief Thermostat'''. This setup was developed by Bill Hutchins and used by Rover, MG and Landrover, it has been in use in mid engined cars for 25 years, and an Elise system was previously developed by Simon Scuffham when racing his k-series engined elise. '''PRRT''' is actually a misnomer (albeit harmless), allegedly invented by one of the members of the Seloc forum. The PRRT acronym may not actually be recognised by anyone outside of the Seloc forum (including anyone involved in the design, manufacture or assembly of the device) though is perhaps a more accurate description as the second R refers to '''remote'''.

==PRRT Colours==

* Cream is 87°C With Medium Spring: first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.
* Black is 82°C With Hard Spring: Not suitable for Rover K engines.
* Grey is 82°C With Light Spring: Latest being used on Freelander (MGF/TF ?). Land Rover replace the old stat (87°C) with this one if they have to open the coolant circuit. '''''THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT !!!'''''

==PRRT Part Numbers==
'''PCH001190''' Land Rover cream PRRT kit (including all the hoses and clips needed to make it fit). It is meant to be fitted on a Freelander. ('''''BUY this for an early S1''''')
http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/freelander_0026.pdf

'''PEL500150''' Land Rover Part grey PRRT kit (full hoses kit, similar to PCH001190 but with a non useable plastic elbow with small takeoff). Not easy to adapt to the Elise. This kit may also be difficult to obtain.

'''PCH003320''' MG cream PRRT kit. This kit is for the MGF which cooling system is very close to the Elise's so it requires less modifications than the Land Rover kit. It's also cheaper and only requires the addition of a piece of aluminium tube as a hose joiner, which can be cut from a discarded tube from the original system. ('''''BUY this except early S1''''')

'''PEL500110''' Land Rover grey PRRT (standalone) ('''''BUY this''''')

'''PEM101020''' Rover part number for both Black and Cream PRRT (standalone) - the fact two different thermostats share the same part number could cause some confusion. The downside with the cream PRRT is that (unless at temperature?) the stat won't open below 1500-1750 rpm due to the spring rate.

'''PEL000040''' a metal polo mint replaces the old thermostat in the housing which pulls left out of the water pump before disassembly (BUY this)

'''PEM00020P''' is a complete new dummy thermostat assembly with PEL000040 fitted. It also includes the two O rings for insertion of the assembly into the water pump.

For DIY instructions on fitting please see the [[Fit a PRRT]] guide.

==PR(R)T for Dummies==

===What parts are needed:===

====Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail)====
* Land Rover Freelander kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH001190 from Land Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Land Rover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Land Rover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x?
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

For fitting, go there: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=104578&page=1

====S2 and Late S1 (Lower Aluminium water rail)====
* MG-Rover MGF CVT automatic kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH003320 from MG-Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Landrover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Landrover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x1
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

===Fitting modifications===
Don't take values as a gospel, go progressively:
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_origine_et_modif.jpg
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_a_la_longueur.jpg

A guide for fitting MGF kit can be found here:
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=134324&page=1

==F.A.Q.==

* Can I just replace the original thermostat without changing hoses?
** => No you can't. The thermostat wouldn't fit to begin with, and it requires a different circuit setup to work.

* What do I use if I have / I want to fit an oilcooler?
** => Go for the "Early S1" list. The landrover Kit has more hoses to play with, it will be easier to adapt. Have a look at [http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's site] (Elise S1) for examples.

* Isn't there a Kit with the grey (82°C) so I don't have to buy it separetly?
** => Yes, LandRover has a Freelander kit comming with the Grey stat. It's ref is PEL500150. It's apparently harder to adapt to the elise because of different hoses/elbows. Beside, most of the cost of the kit comes from the hoses. So you'd better choose the right hose kit and them change the stat.

== External links ==
* http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's Comprehensive Approach
* http://111ti.free.fr/elise_cooling_jul2005/
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?goto=2344458
* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=110181&page=4
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm
* http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=67593&Forum=All_Forums&Words=PEL500150&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=66091&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post67593
* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy-Kp-0hj9Y

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Elise weight

2009-07-21T10:05:26Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* Elise weights from Lotus */

===Elise weights from Lotus===

Standard car weights from Lotus, take with salt.

S1 = 690kg -96 brochure, 713kg -97 manual, 755kg -98 manual

S1 111S = 770kg brochure

S1 160 =

S1 Exige =

S2 ST =

S2 111S =

S2 111R =

S2 Exige =

===Elise weights from SELOC members===

Weights entered from SELOC Members, take with salt.

{| border="2"
! Name !! Car!!Weight!!Misc Info!
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Atom 300
|620kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, tool kit, dead flies
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S1
|700kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 1 gallon fuel, minus carpets, rear screen & hoop
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S1 111S
|760kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S1
|760kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, 27L fuel
|-

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S1 111S
|780kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, bottles of water
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S2 111S
|800kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, Elec windows, no a/c
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S2 111S
|820kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, manual windows, a/c
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S2 111R
|880kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Unknown fuel
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Elise S2 111R
|880kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Full tank, harness bar
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|S2 Exige S
|920kg
|Apr 09, French public weigh bridge, Half tank, boot full of gubbins
|-
|[http://forums.seloc.org/m/revolt Revolt ]
|Elise S1 (1999)
|726KG
|Dry weight (no fuel) measured at EMERALD, weight distribution: front/back: 45/55
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/danmclean DanMcLean]
|Elise S2 Sport Tourer (2002)
|749KG
|[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=210370&page=1#pid3853339 Regional weigh-in and power run]
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/username your username here]
|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
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|Enter car type here
|720KG
|Info Info Info
||
|-
|}

Bleed the brakes

2009-07-11T21:28:24Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* Flushing system */

[[Image:Brake_bleeder.jpg|thumb|left|Brake bleeder with reservoir]]
If air gets trapped inside the [[brake hoses]] a softer brake pedal is felt. The [[brakes]] need to be bled and the air removed from the system. This procedure is relatively simple, being made much easier with a specialist bleeder.

If you have air in the system (eg. when changing brake hoses) then you'll pretty much always need to mess around with the front callipers to get it all out as the design of them traps the air in the inner piston.

If it's just for flushing the system with new fluid (no air in the system) then it's pretty straightforward and you don't have to mess about with the callipers.

It helps a lot if you have spanners with a 'bend' at the end, like an open ring-spanner to keep the brake hose itself in place as you tighten the connector on the car side using a normal, but thin spanner.

On my (early) S2 there was enough space. On a VX220 I needed to dremel the hole above the connector a little to get enough clearance.

== Procedure ==
=== Flushing system ===

If no bubbles are in the system and you just want to refresh the brake fluid, you can either connect a pressure bleeder or bleed manually.

Order; OSR, NSR, OSF, NSF. Wheels off for the rears, but can do it through the spokes at the front.

Manually: For each calliper in turn, pump the brake pedal until it is solid then maintain the pressure whilst the other person puts a non-return valve on the brake nipple and releases it (11 mm spanner) until the pedal hits the deck.

Pressure bleeder: Fill bleeder with brake fluid, connect to reservoir, pressurise bleeder. One by one open bleed valves on calipers until fluid runs clear.

=== Changing brake hoses ===
When changing brake hoses or if you have air in the system a possible approach that can save loads of time or troubleshooting when bleeding is this:

- Before changing the hoses, remove the brake pads and fit very worn/old pads (or some strips of steel or wood) in their place

- Press the brake pedal a few times to extend the brake pistons in the calipers (the old pads or wedge are there to keep them from popping out completely!)

- Now disconnect an old brake hose from the car

- Disconnect the old hose from the calliper

- Connect the new hose to the calliper and tighten up

- Have a helper keep the open hose end up as high as possible

- Gently push back the piston in the calliper (hand/finger pressure for the fronts, screw back the rear) until brake fluid just comes out the open hose end

- Now connect the hose to the fixed line on the car and tighten connection

=== Bleeding rear callipers ===

For the rear callipers the rest of the procedure is:

- Pressurise bleeder

- Tap on the new brake hose and calliper with a plastic/wood hammer to dislodge trapped bubbles

- Open the bleed valve and screw the piston back completely

- Bleed it a little more normally and check if any more air bubbles comes out

Once it's clear, close the bleed valve, refit pads and check pedal hardness after pumping a few times to seat the pads. Should be solid.

=== Bleeding front callipers===
==== S1 and non-ABS S2 ====

For the front brakes there are two ways to get rid of the small amount of air in the hose once it is re-connected to the car.

On an S1 and older S2 without ABS you can compress the pistons in the brake calliper completely. This will force the small bubble up towards the master cyclinder and out into the reservoir.

On a recent S2 with ABS this is not recommended as the air bubble could get trapped in the ABS hydraulic unit and to get it out you need to use the Lotus scan tool to set the ABS unit in a special 'flush' mode. In this case skip to the next method.

- If this worked you can bleed or flush the circuit as usual

- Close bleed valve

- Refit pads

- Test for pedal firmness.

If this worked then continue with the next calliper.

==== ABS equipped S2 or spongy pedal ====

On more recent cars with ABS, or if you still can't get a firm pedal after the first try then there's still air in this circuit somewhere and you need to bleed it the traditional way.

The approach here is a bit cumbersome because of the design of the callipers that trap air in the inner piston.

If this is the case then the approach is as follows:

- Pressurise the brake bleeder with a low (8 psi) pressure to stop fluid and air traveling upwards to the master cylinder

- Tap on the calliper and hose gently with a plastic hammer to dislodge any bubbles that adhere to the surface

- Remove a front calliper from the upright (2 allen head bolts), invert it so the connectng pipe is at the top and open the bleed nipple

- Tap the brake hoses gently and also tap on the inside of the calliper.

- Then (with your hands) squeeze the INNER piston in. This will empty the inner piston and force the bubbles to the front one. Make sure you push it completely in.

- Now carefully rotate the calliper normal side up again so the bleed nipple is at the top. Try to turn it so any bubbles in the outer piston will not try to go up the connecting pipe again.

- With the calliper 'right side up', tap the calliper again and squeeze the OUTER piston back into the calliper and watch for air bubbles escaping

- Close nipple

- Lightly bolt calliper back onto upright

- Refit pads

- Test for firm pedal after some pedal pumping to seat the pads

- If succesful then tighten calliper bolts

=== Conclusion ===

Using this method to fit new brake hoses and bleed the system the advantages are:

- You only introduce a tiny amount of air in the system, so less to get out again.

- You immediately know if you have air left in this specific part of the circuit if the brake pedal was hard beforehand, but now remains 'soft'. (no long 'hunt the problem' sessions)

== Bleeders ==
=== Power bleeders ===
safety goggles recommended
Pump up to 10psi, or 20psi...
Fitted with Ø42mm cap and suitable for most European models

=== Eezi Bleed kit ===
Uses the air pressure from your tyre to force the brake fluid through.

Oh, and don't make the schoolboy error I made, when you decide that you've got all the air out then just do a one more cheeky bleed without realising that the reservoir is almost empty. Oh how you'll laugh as you shoot big globs of air into the system... :wall

=== Make your own with plant sprayers ===
* http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

use it at your own risk, but I made my own Easybleed using one of those spray can with pump included used to spray indoor plants.
worked a treat (as long as there was fluid inside)

* [http://www.blunt.co.uk/hydroponics-shop-uk/hydroponics-products/sprayer-pump-action.jpg Sprayer pump action]

== External links ==
* http://www.elisenet.com/
* http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html
* http://www.tool-supplies.co.uk/sealey-tools.php/products_id/1396

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:VX220]]

S1 Wheel Options

2008-03-29T01:42:19Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* Lotus OZ 6-Spokes (111s, JPS, Type '49') */

==Lotus/OEM==

'''Please Add Your knowledge, Its Easy, Just Press [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php?title={{PAGENAMEE}}&action=edit EDIT]'''

Alloy wheel weight is very important to the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight unsprung weight] of the car.

Stuck on what PCD or Centrebore means, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing read here].

If you want different wheels to those listed below, you need pcd converting wheel-spacers like [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=165&products_id=219 Hubcentric Wheel Adaptors.] as 4x100pcd is already relatively common.

What you need is simple wheel spacers in 4x100pcd, centre bore 56.6 to make the offset a little more common. These spacers would fit Vauxhall Corsa, Astra F&G, Tigra, Vectra + OPEL Ascona and are therefore pretty easy to come by and quite cheap. [http://www.performancefx.net/wsvauxhall.htm example of cheap spacers]

===Lotus AWI 5-Spoke ===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 5.5J x 15
| r_size = 7.0J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET16
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 7.10kg
| r_weight = 8.80kg
| f_tyresize = 185/55R15 195/50R15
| r_tyresize = 205/50ZR16 225/45ZR16
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:5spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 5 Spoke OEM Wheels]]
| image2 = [[Image:5spok.jpg|thumb|S1 5 Spoke OEM Wheels]]
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G0004F

Rear: A111G0005F
}}

===Lotus OZ 6-Spokes (111s, JPS, Type '49')===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 5.5J x 15
| r_size = 7.5J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET16
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 6.95kg
| r_weight = 9.40kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:6spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 6 spoke OEM]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
111s are silver. JPS and Type '49' are gold

Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G0013F (111s), A111G0029F (JPS, Type 49)

Rear: A111G0012F (111s), A111G0031F (JPS, Type 49)
}}

===Lotus Rimstock 12-Spoke===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 5.5J x 15
| r_size = 7.0J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET10
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 7.56kg
| r_weight = 8.62kg
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:12spoke.jpg|thumb|S1 12 Spoke OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G6040F

Rear: A111G6041F
}}

===Lotus Victory (Sport160)===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6.0J x 15
| r_size = 8.0J x 16
| f_offset = ET10
| r_offset = ET10
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 8.32kg
| r_weight = 10.0kg
| f_tyresize = 195/50R15
| r_tyresize = 225/45ZR16
| price = complete set GBP 599
| web =
| image = [[Image:silvervictories.jpg|thumb|S1 160 OEM Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front: A111G6032S (Grey), A111G6030S (Silver)

Rear: A111G6033S (Grey), A111G6031S (Silver)
}}

==S1 Exige==

===Lotus OEM===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = ?
| r_size = ?
| f_offset = ?
| r_offset = ?
| f_pcd = ?
| r_pcd = ?
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = ?
| r_weight = ?
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:exw.jpg|thumb|OEM]]
| image2 =
| notes =
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

==340R==

===Lotus OEM Technomagnesium (UK) ===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = ?
| r_size = ?
| f_offset = ?
| r_offset = ?
| f_pcd = ?
| r_pcd = ?
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = ?
| r_weight = ?
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = 2000
| web =
| image = [[Image:MAG1.jpg|thumb|Technomagnesio only UK cars was offerd these as replacement for the rimstock ]]
| image2 = [[Image:techmag.jpg|thumb|]]

| notes =
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

===Lotus OEM Rimstock===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = ?
| r_size = ?
| f_offset = ?
| r_offset = ?
| f_pcd = ?
| r_pcd = ?
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 6,5
| r_weight = ?
| f_tyresize = ?
| r_tyresize = ?
| price = complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:MAG2.jpg|thumb|Rimstock Alloy (outside uk std) replacement delivery wheels when magwheels where in production ]]

| notes =
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

==Aftermarket==

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]

===Speedline Corse Magnesium===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6J x 15
| r_size = 8J x 16
| f_offset = ET14
| r_offset = ET10
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 5,5kg
| r_weight = 7kg
| f_tyresize = 185-195
| r_tyresize = 225-245
| price = 1220
| web =
| image = [[Image:MAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

===Dymag Magnesium===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6J x 15
| r_size = 8J x 16
| f_offset =
| r_offset =
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight =
| r_weight =
| f_tyresize = 185-195
| r_tyresize = 225-245
| price = 1880 complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:DYMAG.jpg|thumb|5 Spoke MAG Wheel]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

===TRM Forged Alloy===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6J x 15
| r_size = 8J x 16
| f_offset =
| r_offset =
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight =
| r_weight = 20,7kg set
| f_tyresize = 185-195
| r_tyresize = 225-245
| price = 1880 complete set inc VAT ???
| web =
| image = [[Image:TRM.jpg|thumb|Forged Alloy]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}
===Eliseparts 12 Spoke Forged Alloy===
{{ Infobox_Wheels |
| f_size = 6,5J x 15
| r_size = 8J x 16
| f_offset =
| r_offset =
| f_pcd = 95.25
| r_pcd = 95.25
| f_cbore = ?
| r_cbore = ?
| f_weight = 5.00 Kg
| r_weight = 6.52 Kg
| f_tyresize = 185-195
| r_tyresize = 225-245
| price = 1700
| web = http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_79&products_id=713
| image = [[Image:EPW.jpg|thumb| 12 Spoke EP Forge Alloy]]
| image2 =
| notes = OEM S1 wheels.
Lotus Part Numbers:

Front:?

Rear:?
}}

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]

Sports CAT

2008-03-08T22:50:27Z

Lo Spocchioso: /* MOT & Legality & Insurance */

[[Image:Std vs sport matrix.jpg|thumb|left|Standard (left) and Sports (right) CAT's side-by-side]]
A '''Sports CAT''' allow the engine to breath a little more freely than the standard CAT and should not be confused with a [[CRP]] or [[SCRP]].

[[Catalytic converter|Standard CATs]] are ceramic, a Sports CAT tend to be made from stainless steel and therefore can stand more abose without failing. Inside a CAT is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honeycomb honeycombe type structure] which is measured in cells/inch. The heigher the number the smaller the holes and the more restrictive the CAT. Standard CATs tend to be around 400 whereas Sports CATs are anything from 100 to 200.
{{clr}}
==Noise==
Small increase in noise and a few nice pops and bangs.

==Performance==
A small increase in performance but almost negligible.

==Weight Saving==
A '''Sports CAT''' is considerably lighter than a standard CAT.

==MOT & Legality & Insurance==
Some are cheap and have a very low 'dose' of wash coat (like 5gramms per cubic foot) - the coatings cost the money, and you can't see them, so it's easy to make savings here.

Then there are different coatings, stuff like MEX45 or MEGC62 etc.

That said, at the end of the day, the higher the surface area, the better it will work as a CAT, this is against the lower flow that a high surface area CAT will have.

For MOT here, a decent (not cheap) 100-cell one will do the job (assuming the engine is OK), the only problem comes if you have to pass something like the IM240 test, in which case, you need something denser than the 100-cell one.

==S1==
[[Image:S1sportscat.jpg|thumb|left|Elise S1 'Sports' catalytic converter with a flexi section]]
{{clr}}

==S2==

==S2 Sports CAT==
[[Image:S2sportscat.jpg|thumb|left|Elise S2 'Sports' catalytic converter with a flexi section]]
{{clr}}

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]