TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Lotus Videos

2010-01-05T13:38:44Z

Mark A: added new circuits

[[Category:Lotus Elise]] [[Category:S1]] [[Category:S2]] [[Category: Misc ]]

__TOC__
== Track Videos ==

=====Anglesey=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrUrMyMsyFU

=====Bedford Autodrome GT=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SydNgKA9_Kk

=====Brands Hatch Indy=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-ubuXkcMQY

=====Bruntingthorpe=====

=====Cadwell Park=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek5xLijcMKI

=====Castle Combe=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJRtu_VxoWg

=====Croft=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVkA8VLrkXI

=====Donnington Park GT=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hs1oIvJPdY

=====Goodwood=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4543126130502133872

=====Knockhill=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5996384421698507345

=====Llandow=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3891772

=====Lydden Hill=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6812183998009516037

=====Mallory Park=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3653113823708207679#

=====Oulton Park=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcrz_DDqdr4

=====Pembrey=====

=====Rockingham=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btEICd9ZqUQ

=====Silverstone=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=700XzV-hS7w

=====Snetterton=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k5KFwRdgms

=====Thruxton=====

France

=====Abbeville=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_C-crCOmOzA

=====Ales=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3093253

=====Charade=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEwDzXp3RcE

=====Croix-en-Ternois=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8341543283692029914#

=====Dijon-Prenois=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EoDhoA5-hU

=====Ecuyers=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjngSUgW_E8

=====Folembray=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=956522185576825371#

=====Ledenon=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW3J1Fhf8w

=====Le Mans-Bugatti=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63uU0_2wycU

=====Lurcy-Levis=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HEi792KEoQ

=====Magny Cours=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmxUs3AZ0XU

=====Nogaro=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDG_dBshKdM

=====Pau-Arnos=====

Germany

=====Hockenheim GP=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3092450

=====Nürburgring Nordschliefe=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1140247762610830707#

Netherlands

=====Zandvoort GP=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2703474409124216489#

== Road Videos ==

None here.

== Race Videos ==

None here.

Lotus Videos

2010-01-05T13:34:59Z

Mark A:

[[Category:Lotus Elise]] [[Category:S1]] [[Category:S2]] [[Category: Misc ]]

__TOC__
== Track Videos ==

=====Anglesey=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrUrMyMsyFU

=====Bedford Autodrome GT=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SydNgKA9_Kk

=====Brands Hatch Indy=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-ubuXkcMQY

=====Bruntingthorpe=====

=====Cadwell Park=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek5xLijcMKI

=====Castle Combe=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJRtu_VxoWg

=====Croft=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVkA8VLrkXI

=====Donnington Park GT=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hs1oIvJPdY

=====Goodwood=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4543126130502133872

=====Knockhill=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5996384421698507345

=====Llandow=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3891772

=====Lydden Hill=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6812183998009516037

=====Mallory Park=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3653113823708207679#

=====Oulton Park=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcrz_DDqdr4

=====Pembrey=====

=====Rockingham=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btEICd9ZqUQ

=====Silverstone=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=700XzV-hS7w

=====Snetterton=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k5KFwRdgms

=====Thruxton=====

France

=====Abbeville=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_C-crCOmOzA

=====Ales=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3093253

=====Charade=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEwDzXp3RcE

=====Croix-en-Ternois=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8341543283692029914#

=====Dijon-Prenois=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EoDhoA5-hU

=====Ecuyers=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjngSUgW_E8

=====Folembray=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=956522185576825371#

=====Ledenon=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW3J1Fhf8w

=====Le Mans-Bugatti=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63uU0_2wycU

=====Lurcy-Levis=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HEi792KEoQ

=====Magny Cours=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmxUs3AZ0XU

=====Nogaro=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDG_dBshKdM

=====Pau-Arnos=====

Germany

=====Hockenheim GP=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3092450

Netherlands

=====Zandvoort GP=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2703474409124216489#

== Road Videos ==

None here.

== Race Videos ==

None here.

Lotus Videos

2010-01-05T13:32:16Z

Mark A:

[[Category:Lotus Elise]] [[Category:S1]] [[Category:S2]] [[Category: Misc ]]

__TOC__
== Track Videos ==

=====Anglesey=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrUrMyMsyFU

=====Bedford Autodrome GT=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SydNgKA9_Kk

=====Brands Hatch Indy=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-ubuXkcMQY

=====Bruntingthorpe=====

=====Cadwell Park=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek5xLijcMKI

=====Castle Combe=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJRtu_VxoWg

=====Croft=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVkA8VLrkXI

=====Donnington Park GT=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hs1oIvJPdY

=====Goodwood=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4543126130502133872

=====Knockhill=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5996384421698507345

=====Llandow=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3891772

=====Lydden Hill=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-6812183998009516037

=====Mallory Park=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3653113823708207679#

=====Oulton Park=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pcrz_DDqdr4

=====Pembrey=====

=====Rockingham=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btEICd9ZqUQ

=====Silverstone=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=700XzV-hS7w

=====Snetterton=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k5KFwRdgms

=====Thruxton=====

France

=====Abbeville=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_C-crCOmOzA

=====Ales=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3093253

=====Charade=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEwDzXp3RcE

=====Croix-en-Ternois=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8341543283692029914#

=====Dijon-Prenois=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EoDhoA5-hU

=====Ecuyers=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjngSUgW_E8

=====Folembray=====

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=956522185576825371#

=====Ledenon=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZW3J1Fhf8w

=====Le Mans-Bugatti=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63uU0_2wycU

=====Lurcy-Levis=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HEi792KEoQ

=====Magny Cours=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmxUs3AZ0XU

=====Nogaro=====

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDG_dBshKdM

=====Pau-Arnos=====

Germany

=====Hockenheim GP=====

http://www.vimeo.com/3092450

== Road Videos ==

None here.

== Race Videos ==

None here.

Geo Setups

2007-08-11T16:23:01Z

Mark A:

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe || Bump Steer
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side || 2.0° to 2.5° toe in
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side ||
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| {{seloc memberlist link|hbaumhardt}} S2 race || 104/114mm || +3.6° || -1.4° || 1 mm OUT overall || -2.6° || 2mm IN each side ||
|}

These settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

NOTE: the following procedure might be formally wrong, but for real angles is fairly correct.

Converting from mm to degrees:
# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size e.g. 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A).
* http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignmnet rig which can be more accurate than a computerised lazer system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised lazer alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the frotn and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballaat in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess the ballast'''

==See Also==
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Geo Setups

2007-08-11T16:22:43Z

Mark A:

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe || Bump Steer
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side || 2.0° to 2.5° toe in
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side ||
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| {{seloc memberlist link|hbaumhardt}} S2 race || 104/114mm || +3.6° || -1.4° || 1 mm OUT overall || -2.6° || 2mm IN each side ||
|}

These settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

NOTE: the following procedure might be formally wrong, but for real angles is fairly correct.

Converting from mm to degrees:
# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe per wheel (total toe divided by 2) in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A).
* http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignmnet rig which can be more accurate than a computerised lazer system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised lazer alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the frotn and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballaat in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess the ballast'''

==See Also==
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Geo Setups

2007-08-11T16:22:06Z

Mark A:

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe || Bump Steer
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side || 2.0° to 2.5° toe in
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side ||
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| {{seloc memberlist link|hbaumhardt}} S2 race || 104/114mm || +3.6° || -1.4° || 1 mm OUT overall || -2.6° || 2mm IN each side ||
|}

These settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

NOTE: the following procedure might be formally wrong, but for real angles is fairly correct.

Converting from mm to degrees:
# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A).
* http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignmnet rig which can be more accurate than a computerised lazer system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised lazer alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the frotn and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballaat in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess the ballast'''

==See Also==
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Geo Setups

2007-08-11T16:21:41Z

Mark A:

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe || Bump Steer
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side || 2.0° to 2.5° toe in
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side ||
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| {{seloc memberlist link|hbaumhardt}} S2 race || 104/114mm || +3.6° || -1.4° || 1 mm OUT overall || -2.6° || 2mm IN each side ||
|}

These settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

NOTE: the following procedure might be formally wrong, but for real angles is fairly correct.

Converting from mm to degrees:
# Measure the rim diameter in mm as the size 17" is not the actual diameter your measurements are based on.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

Or use the calculator on this page, hypotenuse is the rim diameter the toe in mm is width (or toe in degrees is angle A).
* url=http://joyfulcoder.net/sohcahtoa/

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignmnet rig which can be more accurate than a computerised lazer system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised lazer alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the frotn and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballaat in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess the ballast'''

==See Also==
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Geo Setups

2007-08-11T16:15:28Z

Mark A: /* Setting your own geo */

{| border=1 cellpadding=5 align=center
|- style="background-color:#fed200; face:bold;"
| rowspan=2 | Geometry || rowspan=2 | Ride Height Front/Rear || colspan=3 align=center | Front || colspan=3 align=center | Rear
|- style="background-color:#fed200;"
| Castor || Camber || Toe || Camber || Toe || Bump Steer
|-
| Standard S1 & S2 || 130/130mm || +3.8° || -0.1° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| S2 135R || 120/120mm || +3.7° || 0° || 0mm || -1.8° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| 340R Road || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.5mm IN each side || 2.0° to 2.5° toe in
|-
| 340R Track || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -1.8° || 0.5mm OUT Overall || -2.7° || 2.5mm IN each side ||
|-
| Exige S1 || 112/122mm || +3.8° || -0.5° || 0.1mm OUT Overall || -2.4° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-
| Msport || 100/110mm || +3.8° || -0.3° || 0.2mm OUT Overall || -2.0° || 1.2mm IN each side ||
|-style="background-color:#fed200;"
| colspan=9 | Non-Standard Geo Settings
|-
| {{seloc memberlist link|hbaumhardt}} S2 race || 104/114mm || +3.6° || -1.4° || 1 mm OUT overall || -2.6° || 2mm IN each side ||
|}

These settings are used when car is loaded with 2x75kg passengers and half tank of fuel.

NOTE: the following procedure might be formally wrong, but for real angles is fairly correct.

Converting from mm to degrees:
# Multiply rim diameter in inches by 25.4 to get rim diameter in mm.
# Multiply the result by PI to get the circumference.
# Divide the result by 360 to get mm per degree.
# Divide the toe mm by the mm/degree result to get toe in decimal degrees

== Geo setting X does Y ==
Some starter guidelines although its really really complex stuff and dependent on many other factors;

Increasing front camber from the default -0.1° to -0.5° each side will dramatically improve the understeer, although the inside edges of the tyres will wear slightly faster. Increasing past -1.0° is great for high speed corners but will compromise low speed cornering, will reduce breaking effectiveness and it will tramline on the road.

Increasing rear camber from the default -1.8° to -2.0° (or higher) makes the car more neutral after you've removed the under steer.

Front toe affects stability or responsiveness of turn in. Front Toe out (standard) makes the car more responsive turn in but causes additional drag in straights. Front toe in is more stable in straight line.

Rear Toe controls the stability of the rear through the corner. Rear toe in (standard) makes the car more stable and apparently the elise toes in more at the rear as the suspension compresses. Rear toe out causes the rear to steer out from the corner, reducing stability.

== Setting your own geo ==
Whilst a race prep specialist can charge £200 for a Geo you can DIY castor, camber and toe settings. With a lot of variability in quality at alignment centres (and Lotus dealers !) for the best results put the effort in yourself and build a string based alignmnet rig which can be more accurate than a computerised lazer system. To make a DIY geo/alignmnet rig see:[[Geo Alignment Rig (Home Made)]]

1. The Hunter computerised lazer alignment system is one of the best (the variabiltiy is quality of the operator) http://www.alignmycar.co.uk will find a local place with a Hunter alignment system who will provide a setup sheet showing castor, camber and toe (probably in dd:mm:ss rather than decimal degrees) for £15 and can set the frotn and rear toe for another £30.

2. If you are going to DIY you must have the relevant S1 or S2 service manual suspension sections. Setting castor and camber is straightforward as a caster washer and camber shim have fixed values, whereas toe is delicate - which way do you wind the flats and a quarter turn of the track rod can alter the toe by 2mm (e.g. just tightening the locknuts).

'''Absolutley critical to getting a good geo is having the right ballaat in the seats e.g. for a 780Kg race Elise the difference between empty and an 85Kg driver is 5mm ride height, 0.2° camber and 1mm toe. (Depending on Spring rates used) Don't let your alignment place guess the ballast'''

==See Also==
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=52913 - The pole & string thread by Randy
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=49382
* http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=106461

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Helper springs

2006-07-09T15:45:27Z

Mark A:

Helper springs are usually the 4lbs type that have no influence on the actual ride/handing of the car as they only provide some means of keeping the main spring seated.

As the [[ride height]] of the car is lowered, by reducing pre-load on the main spring, there becomes a point you need helper springs to keep the main spring in check (seated) as the suspension extends completely.

[[Category:Suspension]]

Engine conversions

2006-07-09T15:37:17Z

Mark A: /* Commercial Conversions */

== Commercial Conversions ==

{| border="1"

|-
!Engine
!BHP
!0-60
!0-100
!Top Speed
!RPM
!Weight gain
!Price
!Warranty
!Supplier

|-
|Honda
|200+
|around 4
|under 10
|~165
|8600
|~18Kg's
|£9,750
|12 months
|[http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/services/lotusHPE.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]

|-
|Honda
|300+
|
|
|
|
|
|£13,250
|
|

|-
|Honda & Honda SC
|220+
|4ish
|<10
|160ish
|8500
|
|£9,000 upwards
|12 months
|[http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com Sinclaire of London]

|-
|Honda
|200+
|around 4
|under 10
|~165
|8600
|~18Kg's
|£9,995
|12 months
|[http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/phond1.htm Brooke-Kensington]

|-
|Honda
|220
|around 4
|under 10
|
|8400
|
| ? + £1250.00
|12 months
|[http://www.evo-gt.com/ Sun International]

|-
|Honda JDM spec
|238
|around 4
|under 10
|155
|8600
|25 kg
|€23.900 inc TÜV
|12 months
|[http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php/cPath/141/language/en Komo Tec]

|-
|Audi
|250
|4.6
|under 10
|160
|6000
|40kg
|£8,150
|
|[http://www.auto-teknix.co.uk/audi-conv.htm Auto Teknix]

|-
|Audi
|300+
|under 4
|8.5
|170
|6500
|40kg
|£10,550
|
|[http://www.auto-teknix.co.uk/audi-conv.htm Auto Teknix]

|}

''All data comes from supplier's websites''

=== Dyno Plots ===

Not all conversions will result in identical power output. These are just examples of what is achievable.

[http://www.dyno-plot.co.uk/dyno/dynoplot/id%3D178_232_56_314%26sort%3Drec%26but_sea%3Dqs%26sea_simple%3Dlink/index.htm Audi 250 vs Audi 300 vs N/A Honda vs S/C Honda]

=== Number of Conversions ===

These numbers are largely hearsay, but can be considered as pointers to get you started on hunting for more info:

* 17 Audi conversions by Bernard [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=85466]
* 200+ Honda conversions kits supplied by Simon S [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=78980]

=== Videos of 0-100 etc ===

Just in case you don't believe the numbers above:

* [http://media.putfile.com/Honda-0-60 NA Honda S1]

=== What's in Simon S' Honda Kit ===

* K20A2 Engine& 6 Speed box
* Stainless steel 4-2-1 exhaust manifold.
* Stainless CAT replacement pipe (or High flow SS CAT)
* Right hand engine mount.
* Left hand engine mount.
* Front and rear torque control mounts.
* Gear linkage kit.
* 2 Gear change cables. 6-speed alloy gear knob.
* Clutch pipe adaptor and flexible hoses.
* Silicon Coolant hoses and SS clamp set.
* Fuel pipe systems (SS Braided) and fuel regulator etc.
* Cable brackets.
* Induction kit including cotton clean-able filter
* New accesories belt.
* 2 New driveshafts. Complete with new joints.
* Wiring harness.
* New Oil filter.
* 5 Lt. Synthetic engine oil.
* 1 Lt. Semi-synthetic gearbox oil.
* 3Lt. Anti-freeze.
* ECU Re-mapped and immobiliser deletion.
* Sundry nuts and bolts.