TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Seloc International Rescue

2013-10-10T21:56:05Z

RobC: /* United Kingdom */

SELOC INTERNATIONAL RESCUE

Listing of Rescue Rangers willing to help selocers in distress
please feel free to add, subtract or amend your entry

==United Kingdom==
{| class="wikitable"
| Area
| Member Name
| Notes
|-
| Swindon Area
| APRETEXT
| Always happy to help anyone who breaks down around the Swindon area.<br />
Although my help tends to be limited to a few kind words, a quizzical look, and the lending of my tools. And a cup of tea.
|-
| Essex
| TONYR
| We have a reasonably private parking area at home and a good engineer on call in Essex, altough I must warn him of this should it come to fruition!!!
|-
| Bedfordshire
| JONATHANMILLER
| Happy to help anyone stuck at the Autodrome in Bedford.
|-

| Bedfordshire
| MGH74
| Happy to help anyone in NorthBeds/Northants
|-
| South West (Falmouth & Padstow, Cornwall)
| LECHIFFRE
| I would stress that I know fcuk all about anything mechanical but fortunately know a few people who do.
|-
| Jersey
| LAWRENCE5
| I'll take Jersey. ... that said you can walk the entire island in a day
|-
| Gloucestershire
| MISH
| Happy to help anyone who gets stuck in Gloucestershire
|-
| Ammanford, Wales
| V4FRP
| I can provide translation services for those stuck in the west of Wales, tea, tools of dubious quality and parking space for another wreck in amongst my own wrecks.
|-
| Bristol
| THE_LAD
| Happy to help anyone near me, lifts to/from Williams sports cars etc back to civilisation bus stop or town
|-
| North Lincolnshire (Grimsby)
| ARISUTEA
| Quite happy to hit someones broken car with a spanner in/around the grubby Northern part of Lincolnshire. Can't guarantee I'll make it work again, but I'll try. Although why the hell you'd be coming here is beyond me (unless going to Cadwell or Blyton, then you are excused).
|-
| Sittingbourne, Kent
| ELISEMAN
|North kent area. Loan of tools, spannering and easy repairs to see you on your way, tea/biscuits and a shoulder to cry on. If you are really stuck I can offer over night secure storage of car/belongings.
|-
| Cornwall (Helston)
| DONKSTER
| Sounds like a great idea. I'd be happy to help out if needed, that's another one for deepest darkest south west...
|-
| Chelmsford Essex
| SMARTBEAR
| I have a fairly spacious drive that seloc'ers could abandon their wreckage on.
I promise I won't remove anything (much) from your car.

|-
| Colchester, Essex
| PETESNAP
| I know sod all about cars, but I can offer a sympathetic ear and a lift to a petrol station/garage if needed.
|-

|-
| Cornwall
| TURNAMERE
| I can offer up a little practical nouse, decent selection of well used tools, room for a Lotus on my drive if required along with Paramedic and helicopter winch rescue services for the more extreme emergencies.
|-
| Knutsford Cheshire
| BROOKE BOND
| Tea, Tools, driveway & poss trailer access, south Manchester , Cheshire patch
|-
| Newquay Cornwall
| GINGER S1
| Happy to help out in Newquay/Cornwall area, have spare bedroom too
|-
| Southampton area
| TRIGGER
| F*ck am I helping you twonks !! ..LOL ......
|-
|-
| Oxfordshire / Warwickshire
| MRRIGMA
| Happy to assist if I can, have tools and know a few bits and bobs.
|-
| Northern Ireland
| The Persian
| Happy to help anyone stuck, Warm garage and tools, plenty of space for cars & driver/passengers.
|-
| Durham/ Newcastle
| JTBush
| Loads of tools, inspection pit for work under car and a kettle
|-
|-
| East Yorkshire
| seriouslylotus
| Loads of tools, Lots of parts, flat bed trailer, recovery truck with winch (I hope you don't need the winch!!)
|-
|-
| Leeds
| Blinky
| Can provide emergency taxi service for 1-4 passengers 1hr radius of Leeds (Golf if wet/more than 1 pax)
|-
| West Dorset
| Jamherber
| Good range of tools and knowledge. Access to a garage. A penchant to paint things yellow - you have been warned!
|-
|-
| Cardiff
| Steff
| Got tools, garage, cuddly toy and can suck air in between my teeth and tut like an expert.
|-
| Guildford Area
| CHOPPER
| Tools and tea available, S1's only. No S2 bumders :-)
|-
| North Wiltshire/Gloucestershire
| RobC
| Extensive set of big hammers, there isn't much I've not fixed/broken/re-fixed on these silly plastic cars
|-
|-
|  
|  
|  
|}

==Mainland Europe==
{| class="wikitable"
| Area
| Member Name
| Notes
|-
| North of the Netherlands<br>
North west border region of Germany
| MARTEN
| I have a trailer with winch, a fully equipped workshop and many spare parts as I'm professionally working on Elise's
|-
| Belgium (Francorchamps to Brussels)
| THIVA
| I live close to the Zolder circuit and might also be able to help people on their way from Francorchamps to Brussels.
|-
| Lundberg Uppsala Sweden
| CAT7 EVEN
| I´d be more than happy to assist any selocer who dares to travel North.
|-
| NRW Area, Germany
| TAZ
| I can ridicule anyone who breaks down in NRW area and post pictures of their misfortune.
|-
| Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton
| BURT
| Happy to help out in Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton area of southern france... even have a freindly French/Canadian mechanic next door that looks after my Loti!!
|-
| Nice / Cap D'Ail / Monaco / Menton
| SDIO
| Willing to help if I can (plenty of tools but no garage to do the work).
|-
| Limousin/Dordogne area of South West France
| JERRYTLR
| Can probably help a bit with the language, have a 2 post lift, lots of tools, and a car trailer. Also good friends with a local mechanic :-)
|-
| Tilburg (NL), Eindhoven (NL), Venlo (NL), MonchenGladbach (D) Maastricht (NL), Hasselt (B)
| CAPO
| I can Help in the South of the Netherlands, North of Belgium, part of Germany. Have tools, have some spare parts (brakepads, driveshafts, softtop, softtop bows, etc), have a dry garage without a lift but with decent stands, etc. and have a couple of companies close by that have most of the parts on stock like starter, alternator, etc.
|-
| Hamburg, Lübeck - northern Germany - Baltic Sea
| felixj
| Happy to help anyone stranded in the area. Have most of the tools (albeit spread over both locations), OBD reader, trolley jack, car with tow bar.
|-
| Bremen, Germany
| PORKER
| I could cover off support for 100km radius around Bremen Germany. But I know [Censored] all about mechanical stuff. So basically tea and translation services.
|-
| Munich area, Germany
| KORBI
| Happy to help anybody out who needs a proper look onto the car, repairs (every tool you'll need for an Elise), recovery or just a cuppa or a cold beer. SWMBO may sleep in my bed err...flat too, but I'm happy to take you to a hostel though. Munich area and south of it (say, until passo Rombo)

|  
|  
|  
|}

[[Category:Reference]]

Exhaust silencers for Elise S2, K series engine

2012-07-04T07:37:53Z

RobC: /* Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust */

===HANGAR 111 Signature Series===
Official website - [http://www.hangar111.com/ Hangar 111]

====Signature Sports Exhaust - Elise S2 Large Round Tailpipes====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = signature-exhaust-elise-s2-k-series.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = Less Than Standard
| dB = 92-96db
| Price = From £363+vat
| Suppliers = Hangar 111 Lotus Performance
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/web-store/213-elise-s2-111s-sports-exhaust-stainless-steel.html Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless Steel Sports exhaust system for the Elise S2 featuring large oval, slash-cut round (111S) or large round tailpipes. You can choose tailpipe options when ordering. The noise level is dependant on state of tune, but you can expect an average of around 92-96Db in most applications. Noise levels may be higher when used with a decat pipe. Sound effects can be found on the website.

}}

====Signature Sports Exhaust - Elise S2 Slash-Cut Round Tailpipes====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = signature-exhaust-elise-s2-k-series-slash.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = Less Than Standard
| dB = 92-96db
| Price = From £363+vat
| Suppliers = Hangar 111 Lotus Performance
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/web-store/213-elise-s2-111s-sports-exhaust-stainless-steel.html Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless Steel Sports exhaust system for the Elise S2 featuring large oval, slash-cut round (111S) or large round tailpipes. You can choose tailpipe options when ordering. The noise level is dependant on state of tune, but you can expect an average of around 92-96Db in most applications. Noise levels may be higher when used with a decat pipe. Sound effects can be found on the website.

}}

===BTB Exhausts===
Official website - [http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb/ BTP]

====Twin Round====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = BTB.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = BTB
| Web = [http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless steel performance systems. BTB silencers for Lotus Elise have been designed to maximise performance with minimum weight in keeping with the spirit of Lotus design. Sound quality has been specifically tuned to retain a sporty appeal while remaining within tolerable levels for everyday use.

}}

==Lotus==
Official website - [http://www.lotuscars.co.uk/ Lotus]

===S2 Supersport Silencer===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Lotus_magnex.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 9,1kg
| dB = 84dB @4000rpm / 1 meter
| Price = €514.61 (€612.39 Inc TAX)
| Suppliers = Lotus dealers
| Web = [http://www.speedgt.com/ Click Here]
| Notes = LOTAC05108 CLF/Magnex Official sports silencer since JanSpeed was dropped
}}

==Yoshimura==
Official website - [http://www.kawahara-motorsport.com/ KMS]

===Cyclone===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = KMS-ELISE2-111S-YOSHI-12.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = Kawahara Motor Sport (KMS)
| Web = [http://www.lotuscars.co.jp/KMS/lotus/elise2/yoshimura/index.htm Click Here]
| Notes =
}}

==Bastuck==
Official website - [http://www.bastuck.de/ Bastuck]

===Twin Oval===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bastuck_S2.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = Bastuck
| Web = [http://www.bastuck.de/edelstahl/html/html2006/Frameseiten/fs009.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Moto Concept==
Official website - [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/index.php Moto Concept]
===[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technischer_%C3%9Cberwachungsverein TÜV approved] sport exhaust for Elise MK II===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bild2.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 670 EUR
| Suppliers = Moto Concept
| Web = [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15307 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
This is actually the BASTUCK Exhaust System LOEI-OVAL
}}

Official website - [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/index.php Moto Concept]

===GT sports exhaust for Lotus Elise MK II===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bild3.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 650 EUR
| Suppliers = Moto Concept
| Web = [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15154 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Hayward & Scott==
Official website - [http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk/ Hayward & Scott]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Exhaust haywardandscott.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==D's DEVELOPMENT==
===Racing Exhaust===
Official website - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK D's DEVELOPMENT via Ebay]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 000004.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 6kg
| dB = 120dB on standard car with induction kit
| Price = £220
| Suppliers = D's DEVELOPMENT
| Web = [ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK_pc00017_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ4QQfsnZAnewQ20DigitalQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftsZ2QQsaselZ20084875QQsofpZ0 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
This exhaust is so loud it will blow your Granny's knickers off from 10 miles away
}}

===Sports Exhaust===
Official website - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK D's DEVELOPMENT via Ebay]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 001369.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 7-8kg
| dB = Makes the Stage 2 Exige sound like a mouse farting, its a LOT LOUDER especially in the cabin.http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ECMRhAwbd-0
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=0zZBLOkz8gM
| Price = £260
| Suppliers = ADS
| Web = [http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ds-DEVELOPMENT-LOTUS-ELISE-S2-SPORT-EXHAUST_W0QQitemZ220139292294QQihZ012QQcategoryZ38786QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back, more silenced than the race exhaust, , LOUD Exhaust, very boomy for first 2000 miles then a very nice deep warm exhaust note once sooted up. Welding by this company is second to none. Weight saving over standard is excellent. With a DeCat your car will sound like an animal! Roarrrrrrrr.... pop!

}}

==Raceline==
Official website - [http://www.raceline.co.uk/ Raceline]
===Raceline Mk2 Exhaust Silencer===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2muflo.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £395 plus VAT
| Suppliers = Raceline
| Web = [http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=78&CategoryID=9 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back}}

==Janspeed==
Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]
===Supersport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Supersport_Oval.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB =
| Price = £399.66 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/172_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_janspeed_supersport_exhaust_silencer_%28k_series_engine%29.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 101mm x 90mm Back Slashed Ovals
}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

===Supersport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Janspeed_Supersport_Round.gif
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 8.7kg approximate
| dB = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| Price = £399.66 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/172_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_janspeed_supersport_exhaust_silencer_%28k_series_engine%29.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 90mm Back Round, and will fit Oval rear Grills
}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

I sound tested the Roadsport exhaust with sports CAT on my stock S2 results are:

2,000rpm = 74.2 DBA

4,000rpm = 86.2 DBA

6,000rpm = 91.3 DBA

===Roadsport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Roadsport_Oval.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB = 91.4 at 6k with sports cat
| Price = £350.00 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/169_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_-_janspeed_roadsport_silencer_for_k_series_engine.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 101mm x 90mm Back Slashed Ovals.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

1: Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport

2: Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport

3: Highly Polished stainless steel

4: Engraved tailpipes

5: Lifetime Guarantee

}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

===Roadsport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Roadsport_Round.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB = 91.4 at 6k with sports cat
| Price = £350.00 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/169_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_-_janspeed_roadsport_silencer_for_k_series_engine.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 90mm Back Round, and will fit Oval rear Grills.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

1: Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport

2: Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport

3: Highly Polished stainless steel

4: Engraved tailpipes

5: Lifetime Guarantee
}}

==Larini==
Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]
===Club Sport Sport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = ELISE2CLUBOVAL-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB = 95 with Cat fitted
| Price = £380
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]

===Club Sport Sport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = LS1013-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB = 95 with Cat fitted
| Price = £370
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]

===Sports Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = EL2SPORT-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £350
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]
===Sports Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = ELISESPORTRO-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £340
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Eliseparts==
Official website - [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php Eliseparts]
===S2 Eliseparts Sports Exhaust===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2-exhaus1t_LRG.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £440.92 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Eliseparts
| Web = [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=118&products_id=534 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Round tail pipes only
}}

==Quicksilver==

===Super Sport Round Tails===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Elises2111ssupersportroundtails.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £359.00 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers =
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=407&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Elise S2 111S (and Elise S2 with 111S rear grilles)
}}

===Super Sport Oval Tails===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = QSEliseS2SuperSport.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £379.98 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
Elise S2 111 with oval rear grills}}

Official website -

[http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/ Quicksilver]

or [http://www.lotusexhausts.com/ Lotus Exhausts]

===Carbon Race Ultralight===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Carbonultralightrace.jpg
| Material = Carbon Fibre Race Silencer with stainless steel pipes/tail and internals
| Weight = Approximately 3.8kg
| dB = Approximately 93db on a standard vehicle with a catalyst bypass and induction kit fitted.
| Price = £699.13 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=141&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Single exit ultra lightweight exhaust
}}

Official website -

[http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/ Quicksilver]

or [http://www.lotusexhausts.com/ Lotus Exhausts]
===Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust.jpg |
| Material = Titanium Silencer with stainless steel pipes/tail. |
| Weight = Approximately 3.5 kgs |
| dB = Approximately 93db on a standard vehicle with a Catalyst bypass and induction kit fitted.
| Price = £699.13 inc. VAT
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
Single exit ultra lightweight exhaust
}}

==KOMO TEC==
Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 with ABE===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 154_0.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 799 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/154 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
German [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technischer_%C3%9Cberwachungsverein TÜV approved] system
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports Sportauspuff MK2 Race===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 155_0.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 1099 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/155 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 Komo-Sport===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2auspuffsportneu.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 699 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/190 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 VVC/160===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2auspuffvvc.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 749 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/196 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Milltek==
Official website - [http://www.millteksport.com/ Milltek]
===Sports===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 268.sm.jpg
| Material =
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
Pipe Diameter: 2.25" (57.15mm)
}}

==2Bular==
Official website - [http://www.2bular.com/ 2Bular]
===Single Exit===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 111S2bularfullperformancesystem.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £399.50 Inc. VAT Plus p&p
| Suppliers = 2Bular
| Web = [http://www.2bular.com/products.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat back
}}

Official website - [http://www.2bular.com/ 2Bular]
===111R Style===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 111Sprotypelargesilencertwin3inchdtm.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £434.75 Inc. VAT Plus p&p.
| Suppliers = 2Bular
| Web = [http://www.2bular.com/products.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat back
Need to cut the diffuser
}}

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Exhaust silencers for Elise S2, K series engine

2012-07-04T07:37:25Z

RobC: /* Super Sport Oval Tails */

===HANGAR 111 Signature Series===
Official website - [http://www.hangar111.com/ Hangar 111]

====Signature Sports Exhaust - Elise S2 Large Round Tailpipes====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = signature-exhaust-elise-s2-k-series.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = Less Than Standard
| dB = 92-96db
| Price = From £363+vat
| Suppliers = Hangar 111 Lotus Performance
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/web-store/213-elise-s2-111s-sports-exhaust-stainless-steel.html Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless Steel Sports exhaust system for the Elise S2 featuring large oval, slash-cut round (111S) or large round tailpipes. You can choose tailpipe options when ordering. The noise level is dependant on state of tune, but you can expect an average of around 92-96Db in most applications. Noise levels may be higher when used with a decat pipe. Sound effects can be found on the website.

}}

====Signature Sports Exhaust - Elise S2 Slash-Cut Round Tailpipes====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = signature-exhaust-elise-s2-k-series-slash.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = Less Than Standard
| dB = 92-96db
| Price = From £363+vat
| Suppliers = Hangar 111 Lotus Performance
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/web-store/213-elise-s2-111s-sports-exhaust-stainless-steel.html Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless Steel Sports exhaust system for the Elise S2 featuring large oval, slash-cut round (111S) or large round tailpipes. You can choose tailpipe options when ordering. The noise level is dependant on state of tune, but you can expect an average of around 92-96Db in most applications. Noise levels may be higher when used with a decat pipe. Sound effects can be found on the website.

}}

===BTB Exhausts===
Official website - [http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb/ BTP]

====Twin Round====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = BTB.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = BTB
| Web = [http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless steel performance systems. BTB silencers for Lotus Elise have been designed to maximise performance with minimum weight in keeping with the spirit of Lotus design. Sound quality has been specifically tuned to retain a sporty appeal while remaining within tolerable levels for everyday use.

}}

==Lotus==
Official website - [http://www.lotuscars.co.uk/ Lotus]

===S2 Supersport Silencer===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Lotus_magnex.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 9,1kg
| dB = 84dB @4000rpm / 1 meter
| Price = €514.61 (€612.39 Inc TAX)
| Suppliers = Lotus dealers
| Web = [http://www.speedgt.com/ Click Here]
| Notes = LOTAC05108 CLF/Magnex Official sports silencer since JanSpeed was dropped
}}

==Yoshimura==
Official website - [http://www.kawahara-motorsport.com/ KMS]

===Cyclone===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = KMS-ELISE2-111S-YOSHI-12.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = Kawahara Motor Sport (KMS)
| Web = [http://www.lotuscars.co.jp/KMS/lotus/elise2/yoshimura/index.htm Click Here]
| Notes =
}}

==Bastuck==
Official website - [http://www.bastuck.de/ Bastuck]

===Twin Oval===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bastuck_S2.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = Bastuck
| Web = [http://www.bastuck.de/edelstahl/html/html2006/Frameseiten/fs009.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Moto Concept==
Official website - [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/index.php Moto Concept]
===[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technischer_%C3%9Cberwachungsverein TÜV approved] sport exhaust for Elise MK II===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bild2.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 670 EUR
| Suppliers = Moto Concept
| Web = [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15307 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
This is actually the BASTUCK Exhaust System LOEI-OVAL
}}

Official website - [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/index.php Moto Concept]

===GT sports exhaust for Lotus Elise MK II===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bild3.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 650 EUR
| Suppliers = Moto Concept
| Web = [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15154 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Hayward & Scott==
Official website - [http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk/ Hayward & Scott]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Exhaust haywardandscott.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==D's DEVELOPMENT==
===Racing Exhaust===
Official website - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK D's DEVELOPMENT via Ebay]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 000004.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 6kg
| dB = 120dB on standard car with induction kit
| Price = £220
| Suppliers = D's DEVELOPMENT
| Web = [ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK_pc00017_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ4QQfsnZAnewQ20DigitalQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftsZ2QQsaselZ20084875QQsofpZ0 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
This exhaust is so loud it will blow your Granny's knickers off from 10 miles away
}}

===Sports Exhaust===
Official website - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK D's DEVELOPMENT via Ebay]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 001369.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 7-8kg
| dB = Makes the Stage 2 Exige sound like a mouse farting, its a LOT LOUDER especially in the cabin.http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ECMRhAwbd-0
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=0zZBLOkz8gM
| Price = £260
| Suppliers = ADS
| Web = [http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ds-DEVELOPMENT-LOTUS-ELISE-S2-SPORT-EXHAUST_W0QQitemZ220139292294QQihZ012QQcategoryZ38786QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back, more silenced than the race exhaust, , LOUD Exhaust, very boomy for first 2000 miles then a very nice deep warm exhaust note once sooted up. Welding by this company is second to none. Weight saving over standard is excellent. With a DeCat your car will sound like an animal! Roarrrrrrrr.... pop!

}}

==Raceline==
Official website - [http://www.raceline.co.uk/ Raceline]
===Raceline Mk2 Exhaust Silencer===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2muflo.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £395 plus VAT
| Suppliers = Raceline
| Web = [http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=78&CategoryID=9 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back}}

==Janspeed==
Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]
===Supersport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Supersport_Oval.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB =
| Price = £399.66 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/172_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_janspeed_supersport_exhaust_silencer_%28k_series_engine%29.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 101mm x 90mm Back Slashed Ovals
}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

===Supersport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Janspeed_Supersport_Round.gif
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 8.7kg approximate
| dB = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| Price = £399.66 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/172_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_janspeed_supersport_exhaust_silencer_%28k_series_engine%29.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 90mm Back Round, and will fit Oval rear Grills
}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

I sound tested the Roadsport exhaust with sports CAT on my stock S2 results are:

2,000rpm = 74.2 DBA

4,000rpm = 86.2 DBA

6,000rpm = 91.3 DBA

===Roadsport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Roadsport_Oval.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB = 91.4 at 6k with sports cat
| Price = £350.00 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/169_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_-_janspeed_roadsport_silencer_for_k_series_engine.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 101mm x 90mm Back Slashed Ovals.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

1: Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport

2: Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport

3: Highly Polished stainless steel

4: Engraved tailpipes

5: Lifetime Guarantee

}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

===Roadsport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Roadsport_Round.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB = 91.4 at 6k with sports cat
| Price = £350.00 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/169_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_-_janspeed_roadsport_silencer_for_k_series_engine.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 90mm Back Round, and will fit Oval rear Grills.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

1: Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport

2: Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport

3: Highly Polished stainless steel

4: Engraved tailpipes

5: Lifetime Guarantee
}}

==Larini==
Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]
===Club Sport Sport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = ELISE2CLUBOVAL-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB = 95 with Cat fitted
| Price = £380
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]

===Club Sport Sport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = LS1013-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB = 95 with Cat fitted
| Price = £370
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]

===Sports Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = EL2SPORT-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £350
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]
===Sports Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = ELISESPORTRO-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £340
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Eliseparts==
Official website - [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php Eliseparts]
===S2 Eliseparts Sports Exhaust===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2-exhaus1t_LRG.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £440.92 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Eliseparts
| Web = [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=118&products_id=534 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Round tail pipes only
}}

==Quicksilver==

===Super Sport Round Tails===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Elises2111ssupersportroundtails.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £359.00 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers =
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=407&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Elise S2 111S (and Elise S2 with 111S rear grilles)
}}

===Super Sport Oval Tails===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = QSEliseS2SuperSport.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £379.98 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
Elise S2 111 with oval rear grills}}

Official website -

[http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/ Quicksilver]

or [http://www.lotusexhausts.com/ Lotus Exhausts]

===Carbon Race Ultralight===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Carbonultralightrace.jpg
| Material = Carbon Fibre Race Silencer with stainless steel pipes/tail and internals
| Weight = Approximately 3.8kg
| dB = Approximately 93db on a standard vehicle with a catalyst bypass and induction kit fitted.
| Price = £699.13 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=141&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Single exit ultra lightweight exhaust
}}

Official website -

[http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/ Quicksilver]

or [http://www.lotusexhausts.com/ Lotus Exhausts]
===Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust.jpg |
| Material = Titanium Silencer with stainless steel pipes/tail. |
| Weight = Approximately 3.5 kgs |
| dB = Approximately 93db on a standard vehicle with a Catalyst bypass and induction kit fitted.
| Price = £699.13 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=140&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D2%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Single exit ultra lightweight exhaust
}}

==KOMO TEC==
Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 with ABE===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 154_0.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 799 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/154 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
German [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technischer_%C3%9Cberwachungsverein TÜV approved] system
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports Sportauspuff MK2 Race===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 155_0.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 1099 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/155 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 Komo-Sport===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2auspuffsportneu.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 699 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/190 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 VVC/160===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2auspuffvvc.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 749 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/196 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Milltek==
Official website - [http://www.millteksport.com/ Milltek]
===Sports===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 268.sm.jpg
| Material =
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
Pipe Diameter: 2.25" (57.15mm)
}}

==2Bular==
Official website - [http://www.2bular.com/ 2Bular]
===Single Exit===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 111S2bularfullperformancesystem.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £399.50 Inc. VAT Plus p&p
| Suppliers = 2Bular
| Web = [http://www.2bular.com/products.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat back
}}

Official website - [http://www.2bular.com/ 2Bular]
===111R Style===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 111Sprotypelargesilencertwin3inchdtm.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £434.75 Inc. VAT Plus p&p.
| Suppliers = 2Bular
| Web = [http://www.2bular.com/products.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat back
Need to cut the diffuser
}}

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Exhaust silencers for Elise S2, K series engine

2012-07-04T07:37:10Z

RobC: /* Super Sport Round Tails */

===HANGAR 111 Signature Series===
Official website - [http://www.hangar111.com/ Hangar 111]

====Signature Sports Exhaust - Elise S2 Large Round Tailpipes====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = signature-exhaust-elise-s2-k-series.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = Less Than Standard
| dB = 92-96db
| Price = From £363+vat
| Suppliers = Hangar 111 Lotus Performance
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/web-store/213-elise-s2-111s-sports-exhaust-stainless-steel.html Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless Steel Sports exhaust system for the Elise S2 featuring large oval, slash-cut round (111S) or large round tailpipes. You can choose tailpipe options when ordering. The noise level is dependant on state of tune, but you can expect an average of around 92-96Db in most applications. Noise levels may be higher when used with a decat pipe. Sound effects can be found on the website.

}}

====Signature Sports Exhaust - Elise S2 Slash-Cut Round Tailpipes====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = signature-exhaust-elise-s2-k-series-slash.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = Less Than Standard
| dB = 92-96db
| Price = From £363+vat
| Suppliers = Hangar 111 Lotus Performance
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/web-store/213-elise-s2-111s-sports-exhaust-stainless-steel.html Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless Steel Sports exhaust system for the Elise S2 featuring large oval, slash-cut round (111S) or large round tailpipes. You can choose tailpipe options when ordering. The noise level is dependant on state of tune, but you can expect an average of around 92-96Db in most applications. Noise levels may be higher when used with a decat pipe. Sound effects can be found on the website.

}}

===BTB Exhausts===
Official website - [http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb/ BTP]

====Twin Round====
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = BTB.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = BTB
| Web = [http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb Click Here]
| Notes = Stainless steel performance systems. BTB silencers for Lotus Elise have been designed to maximise performance with minimum weight in keeping with the spirit of Lotus design. Sound quality has been specifically tuned to retain a sporty appeal while remaining within tolerable levels for everyday use.

}}

==Lotus==
Official website - [http://www.lotuscars.co.uk/ Lotus]

===S2 Supersport Silencer===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Lotus_magnex.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 9,1kg
| dB = 84dB @4000rpm / 1 meter
| Price = €514.61 (€612.39 Inc TAX)
| Suppliers = Lotus dealers
| Web = [http://www.speedgt.com/ Click Here]
| Notes = LOTAC05108 CLF/Magnex Official sports silencer since JanSpeed was dropped
}}

==Yoshimura==
Official website - [http://www.kawahara-motorsport.com/ KMS]

===Cyclone===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = KMS-ELISE2-111S-YOSHI-12.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = Kawahara Motor Sport (KMS)
| Web = [http://www.lotuscars.co.jp/KMS/lotus/elise2/yoshimura/index.htm Click Here]
| Notes =
}}

==Bastuck==
Official website - [http://www.bastuck.de/ Bastuck]

===Twin Oval===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bastuck_S2.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers = Bastuck
| Web = [http://www.bastuck.de/edelstahl/html/html2006/Frameseiten/fs009.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Moto Concept==
Official website - [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/index.php Moto Concept]
===[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technischer_%C3%9Cberwachungsverein TÜV approved] sport exhaust for Elise MK II===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bild2.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 670 EUR
| Suppliers = Moto Concept
| Web = [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15307 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
This is actually the BASTUCK Exhaust System LOEI-OVAL
}}

Official website - [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/index.php Moto Concept]

===GT sports exhaust for Lotus Elise MK II===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Bild3.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 650 EUR
| Suppliers = Moto Concept
| Web = [http://www.moto-concept.de/en/autos/lotus/elise2/artikel_elise2_detail.php?item_id=15154 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Hayward & Scott==
Official website - [http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk/ Hayward & Scott]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Exhaust haywardandscott.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==D's DEVELOPMENT==
===Racing Exhaust===
Official website - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK D's DEVELOPMENT via Ebay]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 000004.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 6kg
| dB = 120dB on standard car with induction kit
| Price = £220
| Suppliers = D's DEVELOPMENT
| Web = [ http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK_pc00017_W0QQfciZQ2d1QQfclZ4QQfsnZAnewQ20DigitalQQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftsZ2QQsaselZ20084875QQsofpZ0 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
This exhaust is so loud it will blow your Granny's knickers off from 10 miles away
}}

===Sports Exhaust===
Official website - [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JITHK D's DEVELOPMENT via Ebay]
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 001369.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 7-8kg
| dB = Makes the Stage 2 Exige sound like a mouse farting, its a LOT LOUDER especially in the cabin.http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ECMRhAwbd-0
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=0zZBLOkz8gM
| Price = £260
| Suppliers = ADS
| Web = [http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ds-DEVELOPMENT-LOTUS-ELISE-S2-SPORT-EXHAUST_W0QQitemZ220139292294QQihZ012QQcategoryZ38786QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back, more silenced than the race exhaust, , LOUD Exhaust, very boomy for first 2000 miles then a very nice deep warm exhaust note once sooted up. Welding by this company is second to none. Weight saving over standard is excellent. With a DeCat your car will sound like an animal! Roarrrrrrrr.... pop!

}}

==Raceline==
Official website - [http://www.raceline.co.uk/ Raceline]
===Raceline Mk2 Exhaust Silencer===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2muflo.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £395 plus VAT
| Suppliers = Raceline
| Web = [http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=78&CategoryID=9 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back}}

==Janspeed==
Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]
===Supersport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Supersport_Oval.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB =
| Price = £399.66 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/172_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_janspeed_supersport_exhaust_silencer_%28k_series_engine%29.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 101mm x 90mm Back Slashed Ovals
}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

===Supersport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Janspeed_Supersport_Round.gif
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 8.7kg approximate
| dB = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| Price = £399.66 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/172_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_janspeed_supersport_exhaust_silencer_%28k_series_engine%29.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 90mm Back Round, and will fit Oval rear Grills
}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

I sound tested the Roadsport exhaust with sports CAT on my stock S2 results are:

2,000rpm = 74.2 DBA

4,000rpm = 86.2 DBA

6,000rpm = 91.3 DBA

===Roadsport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Roadsport_Oval.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB = 91.4 at 6k with sports cat
| Price = £350.00 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/169_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_-_janspeed_roadsport_silencer_for_k_series_engine.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 101mm x 90mm Back Slashed Ovals.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

1: Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport

2: Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport

3: Highly Polished stainless steel

4: Engraved tailpipes

5: Lifetime Guarantee

}}

Official website - [http://www.janspeed.com/ Janspeed]

===Roadsport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2_Roadsport_Round.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight = 11.5kg approximate (13kg shipping weight)
| dB = 91.4 at 6k with sports cat
| Price = £350.00 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = PTP
| Web = [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/169_32/lotus/lotus_elise_s2_%28k_series%29/exhaust_systems/s2_elise_-_janspeed_roadsport_silencer_for_k_series_engine.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Duplex 90mm Back Round, and will fit Oval rear Grills.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

1: Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport

2: Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport

3: Highly Polished stainless steel

4: Engraved tailpipes

5: Lifetime Guarantee
}}

==Larini==
Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]
===Club Sport Sport Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = ELISE2CLUBOVAL-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB = 95 with Cat fitted
| Price = £380
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]

===Club Sport Sport Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = LS1013-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB = 95 with Cat fitted
| Price = £370
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]

===Sports Oval===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = EL2SPORT-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £350
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.larinisystems.com/ Larini]
===Sports Round===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = ELISESPORTRO-t.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £340
| Suppliers = Larini
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Eliseparts==
Official website - [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php Eliseparts]
===S2 Eliseparts Sports Exhaust===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = S2-exhaus1t_LRG.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £440.92 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Eliseparts
| Web = [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=118&products_id=534 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Round tail pipes only
}}

==Quicksilver==

===Super Sport Round Tails===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Elises2111ssupersportroundtails.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £359.00 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers =
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=407&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Elise S2 111S (and Elise S2 with 111S rear grilles)
}}

===Super Sport Oval Tails===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = QSEliseS2SuperSport.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £379.98 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=406&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Elise S2 111 with oval rear grills}}

Official website -

[http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/ Quicksilver]

or [http://www.lotusexhausts.com/ Lotus Exhausts]
===Carbon Race Ultralight===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Carbonultralightrace.jpg
| Material = Carbon Fibre Race Silencer with stainless steel pipes/tail and internals
| Weight = Approximately 3.8kg
| dB = Approximately 93db on a standard vehicle with a catalyst bypass and induction kit fitted.
| Price = £699.13 Inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=141&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Single exit ultra lightweight exhaust
}}

Official website -

[http://www.quicksilverexhausts.com/ Quicksilver]

or [http://www.lotusexhausts.com/ Lotus Exhausts]
===Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Ti Ultralight Sports Exhaust.jpg |
| Material = Titanium Silencer with stainless steel pipes/tail. |
| Weight = Approximately 3.5 kgs |
| dB = Approximately 93db on a standard vehicle with a Catalyst bypass and induction kit fitted.
| Price = £699.13 inc. VAT
| Suppliers = Hangar111
| Web = [http://www.hangar111.com/ckshop.php?item=140&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hangar111.com%2Fckshop.php%3Fpage%3D2%26category%3D22 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
Single exit ultra lightweight exhaust
}}

==KOMO TEC==
Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 with ABE===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 154_0.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 799 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/154 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
German [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Technischer_%C3%9Cberwachungsverein TÜV approved] system
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports Sportauspuff MK2 Race===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 155_0.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 1099 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/155 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 Komo-Sport===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2auspuffsportneu.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 699 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/190 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

Official website - [http://www.komo-tec.com/index.php KOMO TEC]
===Sports exhaust silencer MK2 VVC/160===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = Mk2auspuffvvc.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = 749 EUR
| Suppliers = KOMO TEC
| Web = [http://www.komo-tec.com/product_info.php/products_id/196 Click Here]
| Notes = Cat Back
}}

==Milltek==
Official website - [http://www.millteksport.com/ Milltek]
===Sports===
{{ Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 268.sm.jpg
| Material =
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price =
| Suppliers =
| Web =
| Notes = Cat Back
Pipe Diameter: 2.25" (57.15mm)
}}

==2Bular==
Official website - [http://www.2bular.com/ 2Bular]
===Single Exit===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 111S2bularfullperformancesystem.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £399.50 Inc. VAT Plus p&p
| Suppliers = 2Bular
| Web = [http://www.2bular.com/products.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat back
}}

Official website - [http://www.2bular.com/ 2Bular]
===111R Style===
{{Infobox_Exhaust |
| image = 111Sprotypelargesilencertwin3inchdtm.jpg
| Material = Stainless Steel
| Weight =
| dB =
| Price = £434.75 Inc. VAT Plus p&p.
| Suppliers = 2Bular
| Web = [http://www.2bular.com/products.htm Click Here]
| Notes = Cat back
Need to cut the diffuser
}}

[[Category:Exhaust]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Alternator

2012-02-24T12:25:33Z

RobC:

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
{{clr}}

==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Electrical pack replacement.

If you have a problem with the brushes or the electrical pack in general, a new part can be bought from WOODAUTO. (www.woodauto.com). To order, you will need to call them.

My alternator on a S1 Elise stopped working, so I removed it from the car. Took the electrical pack off, and saw the tails from the brushes were no longer connected to their connections, corrosion was the reason.

The electrical pack off mine had ref. RTM152b. On the Woods website, this came up but their ref. is VRG36884 RMI. This item cost £24 plus VAT. All in all, posted to my door cost me £30.00 with VAT.

Refer to the current guild for a photo of the electical pack. It is the black part which has been removed from the alternater. No major rebuild at all if this is the problem.

Time take, 1hr.

Information added by Britspeed off Seloc.

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrician.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Bearing Failure for S2 111s and other model with 4-2-1 exhaust:

Due to the additional width of the 4-2-1 pipes, failure of the rear bearing is not uncommon.
The heat from the pipes cooks the grease until the bearing runs dry and very loud.
Noise produced sounds like metal grinding against metal.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set, though you can get to A and B easily enough with a 15mm spanner.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for a belt for the S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT. - <i> This part number may be correct if you're going to a Rover dealer, but UniPart gave me a different belt when I asked for that number, the correct belt was UniPart number GMV50738 - AL...Ease 27/08/09</i>

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
{{clr}}[[Image:servicealternator.jpg]]
{{clr}}

'''Removal of Alternator'''
This is same as above but in addition you need to remove the 2No. cables; one is bolted on to the rear of the alternator using a 13mm nut, the other is a clip-on connector. Before removing the nut and cables, disconnect the battery.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Alternator Heat Protection==

Heat-shield fabrics claim to reflect up to 90% of the heat radiated by the exhaust and can function at temperatures unto 2000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The potential downside is that the critical components are also thermally insulated from the inside and could therefore suffer from internally generated heat, ie too much protection could make matter worse.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289

http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=80

Material can be bought here :-

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=heat

There are option to improve the standard of the existing manifold shielding or to wrap the exhaust. Both of which [[may]] just push the heat elsewhere and cause problems further down the line.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on eBay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part
*02 111s BOSCH 0124225011

== Alternator Re-build ==

Should your alternator bearing pack up and you don't want to buy a new one (£165) or exchange (£120-140) or repair (£40), then you can always fix it yourself.

Doing this may stop you from being able to exchange an alternator at a later date, if you have any worries stop now.

1. Remove the alternator from the car as described above, access can only be achieved through the wheel arch, with the drivers rear wheel removed. Good luck getting it out between the engine mount and the fuel filler pipes, stick with it!

2. Once you've got the alternator on the bench remove the 2 nuts and the 1 screw holding the plastic cover on and remove, then undo the 2 screws (a&b) holding the electrical parts on - remove sideway and slide out with the commutators attached.

[[Image:alternator1a.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

3. Undo the 4 long bolts, I used a screw driver with a hex shaft and drove it round with a spanner.

4. Using a sturdy flat blade screw drive prise the 2 halves of the body apart. This takes time and you have to work methodically work round from one side to another.

[[Image:alternator2.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

5. Using a 2 or 3 leg puller pull the bearing off the shaft. I used a small hollow nut to protect the plastic shroud on the shaft, so that the centre of the puller pushed against metal instead of plastic.

[[Image:alternator3.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

6. Measure the bearing using a vernier. Mine was 35mmOD, 17mmID by 10mm -- SKF 6003.
Go here

Enter you bearing dimensions and obtain a product code. Then take that code over to eBay and see if you can find a 99p replacement!
You could go for an uprated high temperature bearing but make sure the rpm rating is up to the job.

7. Refit the new bearing by either using a deep socket and drift or make a press from a jack, some wood and wedge under something heavy.

8. Align the 2 halves of the alternator and refit the 4 long bolts, tighten each one a 1/4 turn until tight. Refit the electronics in the reverse of disassemble, making sure to push the commutator back in first.

[[Image:alternator4.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

9. Refit to the car, reconnect the wiring and tension the belt as above.

Alternator parts supplier
http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0124225011

==Alternator Pulley Information ==

Assume tickover at 900 rpm for the warning light to go out.

Standard pulley diameter 48mm, light goes out at 900 rpm, equivalents are
57mm needs 996 rpm
67mm needs 1183 rpm
80mm needs 1503 rpm

Belt sizes are 5pk 738, next size up is 5pk 778 (Gates)

VVC Information

2011-05-18T18:47:36Z

RobC: /* VVC Failure Modes */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the S2 EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

VVC Information

2011-05-18T18:46:29Z

RobC: /* VVC Mechanisms Strip down */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the S2 EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

[img]http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

VVC Information

2011-05-18T18:46:09Z

RobC: /* VVC Mechanisms Strip down */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the S2 EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

[img]http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

VVC Information

2011-05-18T18:45:36Z

RobC: /* VVC Mechanisms Strip down */

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the S2 EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

[img]http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[ImageVVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

VVC Information

2011-05-18T18:44:47Z

RobC:

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the S2 EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

[img]http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC Mechanisms Strip down==

First off here are most of the bits inside of the VVC mechanism housing, I say most because there is a bearing pressed into the housing that doesn’t come out. In this picture you can see the cam, two “plates” with caged bearings and 4 “slidey things” and finally an inner sleeve for want a better word which has the teeth for the VVC sync shaft.

[[Image:Vvc-interntals.jpg]]

At this point I have to point out that it was very important to mark every item if disassembling as the “slidey” bits do wear a little and if not fitted into the same place on reassembly they don’t slide properly. Same goes for the plates.

With all the bits removed from the mechanism I gave it a bit of a clean out then applied some fresh engine oil into it. Added the outer sleeve to the housing ready for the first plate.

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg]]

First insert the first plate, this goes in with the lip at the bottom

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg]]

Insert the bearing cage, this sits around the plate. Add the two slidey blocks, making sure they are in the right place. They should fit “nice” i.e you don’t need to force them in. One of the slidey blocks sits on one of the pins that is in the bottom of the housing

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg]]

Taking the next plate (lip on top this time) and fitting the bearing cage before fitting both into the housing, noting that the large hole allows access to the slidey block on the lower plate that didn’t have the pin in. (this will be a locating hole for one of the cam pins) One of slidey blocks goes over the second pin that is fixed to the bottom of the housing. The last slidey block is ready to take the second pin from the cam.

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg]]

Now the two pins on the cam locate into the to slidey blocks (one on the lower plate and one on the upper one). Its now ready for installation

[[Image:Image:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg]]

==VVC Hydraulic Control Unit==

HCU is oil pressure controlled, the piston operates the VVC sync shaft which inturn changes the cam timing.

In a few bits

[[Image:HCU-Exploded.jpg]]

VVC gaskets, this is available from Rimmer Bros or PTP

[[Image:VVCgaskets.jpg]]

HCU piston assembled

[[Image:VVC-HCU.jpg]]

The heart of the control mechanism of the HCU is the “spool valve”, this looks like a pipe which is full of holes.

[[Image:VVC-internal.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

File:VVC-internal.jpg

2011-05-18T18:44:14Z

RobC:

File:VVC-HCU.jpg

2011-05-18T18:43:20Z

RobC:

File:VVCgaskets.jpg

2011-05-18T18:42:16Z

RobC:

File:HCU-Exploded.jpg

2011-05-18T18:40:13Z

RobC:

File:VVC-strippedmech-Step5.jpg

2011-05-18T18:37:10Z

RobC:

File:VVC-strippedmech-Step4.jpg

2011-05-18T18:36:58Z

RobC:

File:VVC-strippedmech-Step2.jpg

2011-05-18T18:36:35Z

RobC:

File:VVC-strippedmech-Step1.jpg

2011-05-18T18:36:23Z

RobC:

File:Vvc-interntals.jpg

2011-05-18T18:35:46Z

RobC:

VVC Information

2011-05-18T18:32:38Z

RobC:

The Elise S1 111S 143bhp EU2 VVC is controlled by the MEMS 2J ECU common with the early VVC MGFs

The Elise S2 111S 156bhp EU3 VVC is controlled by the Lotus K4 ECU A117M0109F (which looks the same as the MEMS 3 but is *NOT*).

==EU2 & EU3 Differences==

The mechanicals which are different from the EU3 to EU2 engine:

1. 52mm TB as standard (EU2 48mm)

2. Wasted spark coil packs on top of the plugs (EU2 under induction)

3. KTM plate oil/water cooler under the induction (EU2 none)

4. Dark blue 192cc/min injectors (EU2 cream 218cc/min)

5. TF160 pistons with marginally higher compression and expanded ring belt to strengthen ring lands, indentifiable by '160' engraved on the crown

6. Machining of the head around the inlet and exhaust valves (triple-angle valve seats) both in the valve throats and combustion chamber to improve low lift flow

7. VVC control connectors are differnt colours and have different keyways

8. IACV MDQ100170 is PWM (EU2 is Stepper)

9. Cam Position Sensor NSC000010 may have a longer pickup (EU2 is NSC100380)

==VVC Failure Modes==
ECT Sensor Error Limits to 6K RPM

MAP Sensor Error limits to 6K RPM

VVC Solenoid low resistance (should be 6.6 to 8.8 Ohms) Limits to 5.5K RPM

Cam Position Sensor Limits to 5.5K RPM (The VVC CPS is NSC000010 variable reluctance, different to the standard K16 Hall effect)

Excellent write up on the S1 EU2 VVC MEMS 2J logic and failure modes here * http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_VVC_MEMS_2J.htm

Excellent write up on the S2 EU3 VVC MEMS 3 logic (which the K4 is based on) and failure modes here *
http://www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm

Note: Connecting the battery on wrong polarity can blow the K4 ECU VVC control circut, as can running with a low resistance solenoid. Lotus issued a service note on this.

[img]http://wiki.seloc.org/images/a/a2/VVC_Solenoid_SB.jpg[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC Connections==
{|
| K4 Pin || Wire || Function || Connector
|-
| 06 || Blue || VVC Oil Temp Earth || BLACK
|-
| 10 || Green Orange || VVC Oil Temp Signal || BLACK
|-
| 12 || Black Yellow || VVC Decriment || BLUE
|-
| 49 || Brown Black || VVC Increment || BROWN
|-
|}

The S2 Connector order is LEFT < Blue - Brown - Black > RIGHT VVC Actuator

The S1 connector order is LEFT < Blue - Black - Brown > RIGHT VVC Actuator

[img]http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/24232/S2_VVC_Engine_Sensors.JPG[/img]

==Lotus S2 K4 ECU VVC DTC Codes==
The S2 ECU is ODB2 compliant (ISO9141/KWP2000) so can be read by most scantools. Of course the S1 MEMS isn't OBD2 so no idea what that spits out ...

{|
| Code || Description ||
|-
| P1336 || S2 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned ||
|-
| P1400 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Short ||
|-
| P1401 || S2 Fan 1 Relay Open ||
|-
| P1402 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Short [unverified] ||
|-
| P1403 || S2 Fan 2 Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1470 || S2 Coolant Recirculation Relay Open [unverified] ||
|-
| P1480 || S2 Exhaust flap relay open ||
|-
| P1481 || S2 Exhaust flap short circuit ||
|-
| P1490 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid open circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1491 || S2 VVC brown increment solenoid short circuit (Black Yellow) ||
|-
| P1492 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid open circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1493 || S2 VVC blue decrement solenoid Short circuit (Black Brown) ||
|-
| P1494 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor LOW open circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
| P1495 || S2 VVC black oil temp sensor HIGH short circuit (Green Orange + Blue) ||
|-
|}

==VVC Timing Information==

Timing of VVC, text by Dave Andrews (DVA Power), Pictures and additional text by Rob Clarke

Ok...first off we need a cam carrier with the inlet nearest to me so the front of the engine is on my left.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step1.jpg]]

Fitting the front VVC mechanism to the cam carrier, at the moment this is just held on with two bolt so it doesn’t fall off and fall apart.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step2.jpg]]

Turn the inner rotating part of the mech. so that the toothed rack on the outer rotor moves in a clockwise direction and the slot in the rotor lines up with the slot machined in the outer support ring of the mech casing at the top centre (as viewed).

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step3.jpg]]

At this point the teeth on the rotor should start pretty much level with the cam ladder surface and extend down and below the surface of the rack radially, effectively from the 3 O’clock position to the 7 O’clock position as viewed from the front of the ladder. The start of the rotors toothed rack should be clearly visible through the break in the casing support ring where the synch. shaft will fit.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step4.jpg]]

Support the VVC mech. with your hand and remove the two bolts holding the mech. to the ladder, do not let the mech fall away or disengage from the cam. Rotate the mech. slighty anti-clockwise so that the slot which accepts the synch shaft moves upwards a little away from the ladder. Take the synch shaft and enmesh the front end (this has two tooth pinions) into the teeth on the mechs rotor. Rotate the VVC mech back into its correct position and this should bring the synch shaft down into it’s correct position nestling in its bearings. Replace the bolts holding the VVC mech. to the ladder and do them up nearly tight. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti clockwise direction until the pinion teeth meet the end of the toothed track on the VVC mech. rotor and the shaft will turn no more.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step5.jpg]]

At this point the slot on the rotor and the slot on the mech. casting at the top centre should be pretty much in line.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step6.jpg]]

Take the rear VVC mech/cam and rotate the inner rotor in an anti-clockwise direction until the slot in the rotor and the slot in the mech housing at the top are in line, when this is done the teeth on the rotor should occupy the 3 O’clock to 7 O’clock positions as with the front mech and it should be a mirror image of the front mech with the end of the teetyh track clearly visible at the point where the synch shaft will fit.

Now fit the VVC rear mech/cam to the ladder while fitting the synch shaft rear end to the teeth track on the mech, There is a bit of a knack to making sure the synch shaft enmeshes in the correct tooth on the inner rotor. Make sure the cam is sitting correctly in its bearings and the VVC mech. is aligned with its bolt holes and then fix the rear VVC mech to the ladder with two bolts and ensure these are nearly tight as with the front mech. Rotate the synch shaft in an anti-clockwise direction until it will not turn any more and ensure that the teeth on each pinion at either end have reached the last tooth on the VVC mech rotor, if they are not exactly in synch then undo the bolts on the rear mech, rotate this anti clockwise a little until the synch shaft can be disengaged from the toothed track and re-synch the track and pinion, then re-seat the mech and do the bolts up. Continue until the two mechs are in synch. with one another and effectively mirror images and ensure the synch shaft is rotated fully anti-clockwise until it locks against the ends of the toothed tracks.

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step7.jpg]]

If the cams are installed correctly the lobs will be in these positions

[[Image:vvcrebuild-step8.jpg]]

Once the cam ladder is on the head you can check the timing marks, with everything lined up you should be able to see a semi-circle in the 6mm hole in the cam carrier like this

Front cam -

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg]]

Rear cam –

[[Image:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg]]

==VVC and Emerald ECU==
Emerald K3 ECU needs to be firmware revision 1.13 to filter out Cam Position Sensor noise that can cause VVC cam control issues at high RPM.

==External Resources==
VVC Sensors * http://homepage.swissonline.ch/TomsSeven/Navigation2/Map.htm

VVC Sensors * http://www.mgfcar.de/sensor/index.htm

VVC Mechanism Assembly * http://www.davebence.co.uk/mods_10.htm

VVC Timing * http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=1940938

[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

==Fitting an EU2 VVC Engine to a non-VVC S1 Elise==
Lotus didnt make any changes to the car's wiring loom between their standard 120bhp S1 and the 143bhp VVC powered 111S. This means that you can easily fit an EU2 VVC K-Series engine (eg. from an MGF) and run it using the Rover MEMS J2 ECU. All you'll need is a donor VVC engine, engine loom and a matching Lucas 5AS module (sits behind the Stack dashboard) to make the swap.

File:Headbuild-vvctimingfront.jpg

2011-05-18T18:32:12Z

RobC:

File:Headbuild-vvctimingrear.jpg

2011-05-18T18:32:01Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step8.jpg

2011-05-18T18:17:29Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step7.jpg

2011-05-18T18:16:56Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step6.jpg

2011-05-18T18:16:42Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step5.jpg

2011-05-18T18:16:30Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step4.jpg

2011-05-18T18:15:48Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step3.jpg

2011-05-18T18:15:36Z

RobC:

File:VVC-strippedmech-Step3.jpg

2011-05-18T18:15:04Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step2.jpg

2011-05-18T18:14:46Z

RobC:

File:Vvcrebuild-step1.jpg

2011-05-18T18:13:57Z

RobC:

Tyre pressures

2008-02-01T23:03:59Z

RobC: /* Tyre pressures */

===Tyre pressures===

Make sure you buy a tyre pressure gauge of your own, who knows when the last time the air pump at the garage was calibrated.

Buying your own gauge will insure you get similar readings.

'''Please enter all readings as COLD'''

Please beware that tyre pressure is part of your suspension setup and the pressure numbers from the manual is a good start if you run factory geo and OE tyres. Anything else is trial and error.

That said starting at the low end will help you find the correct pressure faster.

'''As used by other SELOC members:'''

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S1'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Toyo R888||22||24||Road
|-
|Yokohama Advan Neova LTS||22||24||Road
|-
|Toyo Proxies T1R||24 ||26||Road
|-
|BF Goodrich G Force Profilers||22||24||Road
|-
|Yoko C Drive||22 ||24||Road
|-
|R888||19 ||21||Road
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/27.5R for Bridgestones on a K series but this may be too high with rear centre tread wearing first.

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 K series'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Yoko AD07||PSI 22||PSI 24||Road & Track
|-
|Bridgestones||PSI 24 ||PSI 26||Road
|-
|Bridgestones||PSI 26 ||PSI 27.5||Road (and no abnormal centre wear at all)
|-
|Yoko AD07||23 ||25||Road
|-
|Toyo R888||22 ||24||Roar
|-
|Toyo R888||20 ||22||Track
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

The Elise manual says 26F/29R for Bridgestones on a Toyota-engined Elise Standard 111R

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Elise S2 Toyota'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Yokohama AD07||23||25||Road
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Road
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

{| border="1"
|-
| '''Exige S2 Toyota''' ||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Yokohama A048||22||24||Track
|-
|Yokohama A048||24 ||26||Road
|-
|Toyo T1-R||26||28||Road
|}

{| border="1"
|-
|'''Europa'''||'''FRONT'''||'''REAR'''||'''Road or Track?'''
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|-
|Tyre Name||PSI ||PSI||?
|}

[[Category:Wheels and tyres]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]