TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Alternator

2013-05-19T19:40:48Z

Sinatra:

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
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==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Electrical pack replacement.

If you have a problem with the brushes or the electrical pack in general, a new part can be bought from WOODAUTO. (www.woodauto.com). To order, you will need to call them.

My alternator on a S1 Elise stopped working, so I removed it from the car. Took the electrical pack off, and saw the tails from the brushes were no longer connected to their connections, corrosion was the reason.

The electrical pack off mine had ref. RTM152b. On the Woods website, this came up but their ref. is VRG36884 RMI. This item cost £24 plus VAT. All in all, posted to my door cost me £30.00 with VAT.

Refer to the current guild for a photo of the electical pack. It is the black part which has been removed from the alternater. No major rebuild at all if this is the problem.

Time take, 1hr.

Information added by Britspeed off Seloc.

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrician.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Bearing Failure for S2 111s and other model with 4-2-1 exhaust:

Due to the additional width of the 4-2-1 pipes, failure of the rear bearing is not uncommon.
The heat from the pipes cooks the grease until the bearing runs dry and very loud.
Noise produced sounds like metal grinding against metal.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Removal==
Should take about 1hr:
#Disconnect the battery
#Remove offside rear wheel and wheel arch liner
#Remove plastic cam cover - three 8mm screws
#Remove any exhaust manifold heat shield
#Remove main (largest) wire from alternator 13mm nut. You can't remove the control wire (clip on connector) yet as the heat shield is in the way. Leave this for now.
#Remove 15mm tension bolt
#Remove 15mm top bolt
#Pry alternator from bracket. Start with small flat head screwdriver and gradually move to larger size as the alternator moves out.
#Disconnect control wire plug and remove belt from pully
#Extract alternator from above

*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.

==Removal from Air Con Cars==
I find it best to remove the engine cover to gain direct access from directly above the alternator. Get the gas removed from the system before you touch the pipes.
#Release the tension in the auxillary belt by slackening the pulley tension bolt (remove the belt). The pulley sits inbetween the engine and compressor.
#Undo the nut attaching the smaller rubber aircon pipe to the sill pipe in the wheel arch. This will allow you access to the larger pipe.
#Remove the top alternator bolt and the bracket holding the air con pipes together.
#Slacken the bottom alternator bolt through the wheel arch. This should allow you to pivot the alternator away from the top alternator bracket.
#Remove the top bracket.
#Use the appropriate allen key to remove the bolt holding the large air con pipe on to the compressor. You can access the bolt through the wheel arch.
#From above either slacken (or remove)the smaller air con pipe going to the compressor.
#Using a ratchet spanner or similar, access the bottom alternator bolt from above (I found it best to stand in the cockpit!) Use a 1/4 inch ratchet with extension to access the back bolt.
#Extract alternator from above.

==Regulator==
Very common for these to fail. Can be replaced for about £60.

[[File:Bosch alternator regulator f00m145269.JPG|thumb|Bosch Alternator Regulator]]

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set, though you can get to A and B easily enough with a 15mm spanner.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for a belt for the S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT. - This part number may be correct if you're going to a Rover dealer, but UniPart gave me a different belt when I asked for that number, the correct belt was UniPart number GMV50738 - AL...Ease 27/08/09

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
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==Alternator Heat Protection==

Heat-shield fabrics claim to reflect up to 90% of the heat radiated by the exhaust and can function at temperatures unto 2000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The potential downside is that the critical components are also thermally insulated from the inside and could therefore suffer from internally generated heat, ie too much protection could make matter worse.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289

http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=80

Material can be bought here :-

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=heat

There are option to improve the standard of the existing manifold shielding or to wrap the exhaust. Both of which [[may]] just push the heat elsewhere and cause problems further down the line.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on eBay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part
*02 111s BOSCH 0124225011

== Alternator Re-build ==

Should your alternator bearing pack up and you don't want to buy a new one (£165) or exchange (£120-140) or repair (£40), then you can always fix it yourself.

Doing this may stop you from being able to exchange an alternator at a later date, if you have any worries stop now.

1. Remove the alternator from the car as described above, access can only be achieved through the wheel arch, with the drivers rear wheel removed. Good luck getting it out between the engine mount and the fuel filler pipes, stick with it!

2. Once you've got the alternator on the bench remove the 2 nuts and the 1 screw holding the plastic cover on and remove, then undo the 3 screws (a&b + c not shown!) holding the electrical parts on - remove sideway and slide out with the commutators attached.

[[Image:alternator1a.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
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3. Undo the 4 long bolts, I used a screw driver with a hex shaft and drove it round with a spanner.

4. Using a sturdy flat blade screw drive prise the 2 halves of the body apart. This takes time and you have to work methodically work round from one side to another.

[[Image:alternator2.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
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5. Using a 2 or 3 leg puller pull the bearing off the shaft. I used a small hollow nut to protect the plastic shroud on the shaft, so that the centre of the puller pushed against metal instead of plastic.

[[Image:alternator3.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
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6. Measure the bearing using a vernier. Mine was 35mmOD, 17mmID by 10mm -- SKF 6003.
Go here

Enter you bearing dimensions and obtain a product code. Then take that code over to eBay and see if you can find a 99p replacement!
You could go for an uprated high temperature bearing but make sure the rpm rating is up to the job.

7. Refit the new bearing by either using a deep socket and drift or make a press from a jack, some wood and wedge under something heavy.

8. Align the 2 halves of the alternator and refit the 4 long bolts, tighten each one a 1/4 turn until tight. Refit the electronics in the reverse of disassemble, making sure to push the commutator back in first.

[[Image:alternator4.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
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9. Refit to the car, reconnect the wiring and tension the belt as above.

Alternator parts supplier
http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0124225011

==Alternator Pulley Information ==

Assume tickover at 900 rpm for the warning light to go out.

Standard pulley diameter 48mm, light goes out at 900 rpm, equivalents are
57mm needs 996 rpm
67mm needs 1183 rpm
80mm needs 1503 rpm

Belt sizes are 5pk 738, next size up is 5pk 778 (Gates)

Servicing

2007-04-04T12:32:14Z

Sinatra: /* Cam belts */

===Servicing===

Compiled by Dot

In order to maintain warranty validation and help ensure proper safety, emissions performance and dependability of the vehicle, Lotus Cars Ltd. requires that the vehicle be serviced in accordance with this schedule. Each service should be performed either within 1000 miles (1600 kms) of the distance stipulated, or within one month of the anniversary of the previous service, whichever first occurs. Any necessary repairs should be completed without delay.

A cross (X) in the following table indicates an operation to be performed. The corresponding box should be ticked when the operation has been satisfactorily performed, or the X circled if extra work and time is required. The approval of the customer should be obtained before any extra work is undertaken, details of which should be recorded in the space provided at the end of the schedule.

After Sales Service: There is no charge to the vehicle owner for the labour content of the After Sales Service. Only materials used will be charged.

Inspect means assess condition and test for correct operation. Extra time is required to adjust or repair - advise customer beforehand if necessary.

Check means test and adjust/fill or tighten as necessary. Labour time is included.

There are four types of services for the Elise:

1) After sales Service (AS)

2) A Service (A)

3) B Service (B)

4) C Service (C)

Servicing Sequence Type KM / Mileage or time:

AS 1500 / 1000 or within 12 months

A 15000 / 9000 or 12 months

A 30000 / 18000 or 12 months

B 45000 / 27000 or 12 months

A 60000 / 36000 or 12 months

A 75000 / 45000 or 12 months

C 90000 / 54000 or 12 months

A 105000 / 63000 or 12 months

A 120000 / 72000 or 12 months

B 135000 / 81000 or 12 months

A 150000 / 90000 or 12 months

A 165000 / 99000 or 12 months

C 180000 / 108000 or 12 months

Note that for some variants (Sport 160/190, Exige), the service interval is every 6000 miles instead of the usual 9000 miles. Many advocate a service sequence of A,B,A,B,A,C on these cars so that the spark plugs are replaced every other service. Apparently this is what Lotus always intended but some service record books were printed incorrectly.

==Cam belts==
Lotus have amended the original schedule and now recommend changing cam belts at least every four years rather than the original six, this will often mean services can become "A+belts", "B+belts", or "C-belts" depending on age and mileage and you will need to track the age of the cambelt separably from the normal service history.

==Schedule==
[[Image:schedule.GIF|left]]
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Servicing

2007-04-04T12:19:09Z

Sinatra:

===Servicing===

Compiled by Dot

In order to maintain warranty validation and help ensure proper safety, emissions performance and dependability of the vehicle, Lotus Cars Ltd. requires that the vehicle be serviced in accordance with this schedule. Each service should be performed either within 1000 miles (1600 kms) of the distance stipulated, or within one month of the anniversary of the previous service, whichever first occurs. Any necessary repairs should be completed without delay.

A cross (X) in the following table indicates an operation to be performed. The corresponding box should be ticked when the operation has been satisfactorily performed, or the X circled if extra work and time is required. The approval of the customer should be obtained before any extra work is undertaken, details of which should be recorded in the space provided at the end of the schedule.

After Sales Service: There is no charge to the vehicle owner for the labour content of the After Sales Service. Only materials used will be charged.

Inspect means assess condition and test for correct operation. Extra time is required to adjust or repair - advise customer beforehand if necessary.

Check means test and adjust/fill or tighten as necessary. Labour time is included.

There are four types of services for the Elise:

1) After sales Service (AS)

2) A Service (A)

3) B Service (B)

4) C Service (C)

Servicing Sequence Type KM / Mileage or time:

AS 1500 / 1000 or within 12 months

A 15000 / 9000 or 12 months

A 30000 / 18000 or 12 months

B 45000 / 27000 or 12 months

A 60000 / 36000 or 12 months

A 75000 / 45000 or 12 months

C 90000 / 54000 or 12 months

A 105000 / 63000 or 12 months

A 120000 / 72000 or 12 months

B 135000 / 81000 or 12 months

A 150000 / 90000 or 12 months

A 165000 / 99000 or 12 months

C 180000 / 108000 or 12 months

Note that for some variants (Sport 160/190, Exige), the service interval is every 6000 miles instead of the usual 9000 miles. Many advocate a service sequence of A,B,A,B,A,C on these cars so that the spark plugs are replaced every other service. Apparently this is what Lotus always intended but some service record books were printed incorrectly.

==Cam belts==
Lotus have amended the original schedule and now recommend changing cam belts at least every four years rather than the original six, this will often mean services can become "A+belts", "B+belts", or "C-belts" depending on age and mileage.

==Schedule==
[[Image:schedule.GIF|left]]
{{clr}}

S2 Track Modifications

2007-01-09T11:19:14Z

Sinatra: spelling

Thinking of investing in track upgrades for an S2 Lotus Elise ?

This article is a pragmatic and cost conscious approach to stepwise investments for getting the most out of the Elise handling on track as your driving improves, without pissing away too much cash ( LOL if that’s possible ).

This is about handling - for engine/power upgrades e.g. induction, exhaust, headwork, ecu, cams, transplants I'd suggest a separate article ( just note that if your over 95dba static you could have problems attending some track events ).

The article is aimed at folks new to this to give a complete picture of all the investments that can be made for a great track car ( e.g. ready to raceprep for [http://www.lotrdc.com LOTRDC ] class A ) but does not represent the "the ultimate in affluent or exotic upgrades", for that simply contact bogie on SELOC or PH :)

===0. Kit Bag===
Start with a £10 tire pressure gauge as the most important item and add from there ... after hiring smelly helmets sweat in your own ( Type A, A/FR or SNELL ), foot pump, fuel can, gloves etc.

===1. Oil===
Before you hit the track and start cooking the engine get some decent oil in - favourite would be fully synthetic with a high HTHS value and change when it’s black (every 8 to 12 track hours). If you don’t have an oil cooler even more important for a 5.x HTHS oil and change even more often. Worst case put in any W40 in but try and keep it fresh, rocking out on track with your car in need of an oil change is simply mad. Read the "Why oils lose viscosity with use" section of [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Oil_Labelling_Explained#Why_oils_lose_viscosity_with_use Oil Labelling]

===2. Brake Pads and Fluid===
After your first track experience you'll be wanting more consistent stopping power with longer sessions and the brakes are the first item to stress. Consider Mintex 1144 £100 for occasional tracking, Pagid RS42 blue for road and track £200, Pagid RS14 black £200 for hard core track bias (i.e. not great when cold and wet on the way to work). Fronts should last 24 track hours rears two to four times that.

Decent pads that wont fade with heat need fresh fluid (Castrol Super DOT4 £10, AP600 £20, SRF £50) and plan to bleed fluid regularly (every 8 to 12 track hours) plus completely change it annually (Lotus recommend that even for road use)
If your flushing the fluid then put some stainless steel braided hoses on £50 for more consistent brake feel as the increase in labour cost is marginal.

See [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Brake_pads Brake Pads] and
[http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Brake_fluid Brake Fluid] for more information.

===3. Harness===
So the cornering and braking is throwing you around the cabin and wedging your left leg against the gear lever just isn’t good enough to stop the bruising. If your just having fun consider a CGlock but if you really want to "feel" the car you need a harness.

Bolt in or Wraparound ?

If you don’t have seats with shoulder strap holes you MUST buy bolt in harnesses. If you have seat holes then you can have either.

Harness shoulder strap bar ?

There are two principle types of harness bar, one that mounts mid level using dedicated points on the roll hoop but requires cutting the plastic back panel or one that bolts up behind the inertia reels and requires no cutting but can hold the straps too high and loose if you are shorter.

Also See [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/S2_harness_bar_fitting Harness Bar Fitting]

Harness Points ?
T
hey come in 4 or 5/6 point (crutch strap). 4 point is fine as you need a special cut-out in the base of the seat and a mount frame and/or custom floor spreader plates to use the 5/6 crutch strap.

Clubman or Standard ?

Clubman harness have the 2” shoulder straps permanently attached to the lap straps and do not join at the buckle which means they can be quite wide at the shoulders, you could pop out the middle if you are a slight build. Separate shoulder and lap straps which all join at the buckle are more expensive but far more secure and come in 2” or 3” (pref) shoulder strap widths. Lap straps should generally be 2” for security as the 3” can apparently ride up the pelvis fitted to Elise seats.

Adjusters ?

Shoulder straps can be fitted with plain buckles or quick release adjusters which make leaning forward (e.g. if using harness on the road) a whole lot easier.

The gold standard for harnesses are the Williams Silverstone 4 point 3” shoulder 2” lap strap with quick release adjusters £170 and you can add a the crutch strap later; use this as a price/performance comparison benchmark for whatever you are thinking of buying.

===4. Camera & mount===
If you really want to improve, along with lots of training, video yourself for later review of performance and technique. With a harness bar the usual camera mount is a Manfrotto superclamp SC with extension spindle ES and camera plate for £40. Stick any MiniDV or digital camera on there (anti vibration like Sony supersteadyshot really helps) but avoid the direct to CD types as the vibration can kill them. Being compulsive/obsessive is also a plus for this stage
[http://www.b-hague.co.uk/Mounting%20Brackets.htm Camera Brackets Here]

If your camcorder has analogue input you could use a bullet cam mounted just about anywhere on the car.[http://www.rfconcepts.co.uk Bullet cams Here] [http://www.fastfilms.co.uk or here]

===5. Suspension===
So your bouncing over the track at speed and riding the bumpstops in corners with loads of lock and high slip angles for safe understeery fun, time for suspension ? Well if you eventually want to fit cut slick tyres and really use their capabilities you really will need stiffer springs and that means new monotube dampers.

Lotus Sport Suspension with adjustable ride height £600, Nitron One Way with adjustable ride height and damping (bump/rebound) £1,100 or Ohlins or ... but be really careful about the £500 twintube damper offers since cheep is cheep. This is a long conversation and involves careful consideration of spring rates, ride height and geometry, but just fitting Nitrons and stiffer springs (e.g. 400/475) will drop a 2 minute lap by 5 to 10 seconds whilst providing a more predictable platform. Do a SELOC search on +spring +rates

New suspension will need the Geometry adjusting, another long storey but 340R Road is probably a good place to be here whilst still on road tyres see:[http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Geo_Setups Geo Setups] for more information.

===6. Tyres===
By now you are melting your road tyres on track so it could be time for 195/225 cut slicks. Either Yokohama A048 £650 or Toyo R888 £450 will drop a 2 minute lap by a further 5 to 10 seconds with more consistency. See [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/Tyres_for_OZ_Racing_Rims Tyres for Oz Alloys] for more information.

You need to be really committed here since these tyres cost 50 to 100% more than your current road tyres and only last 25 to 50% the miles - this will generate a big jump in operating costs for a worse experience on the road (e.g. aquaplane in standing water). Maybe keep your original rims and tyres for road use ?

Whilst you could run 195 tyres on the standard 5.5J front rims, to allow the sidewalls to do their job properly, it is highly recommended to upgrade the front rims to 6.5J or 7J which unfortunately needs a whole new set of 4 like TeamDynamics 1.2 £500 or Lotus Motorsport OZ or Exige Spider £1,000 See [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/S2_Wheel_Options Wheel Options] for more information.

'''PS If you are not able to consistently exceed your current road tyres capability on track, "upgrading" to cut slicks too early will probably hinder your development.'''

===7. Brake Disks===
You are probably now at the point of overheating the OEM front disks with higher approach speeds and the extra braking capacity of the cut slicks. Time to upgrade the front disks to something that handles heat better; Elise-shop Motorsport disks £200 or Elise parts Ally Bell £300. There is marginal benefit upgrading the rear disks as they are used a LOT less (between 1:2 and 1:4) and yes you can run mixed front to back (e.g. the Official Lotus Motorsport 310mm AP5000 upgrade kit is for the front only).

===8. ARB===
Your consistently taking Craners at Donington or Coppice at Cadwell and the like around 100 mph and to improve high speed cornering stability and consistency a 2.5x ARB will help £200. You'll probably want to increase the front camber now or consider the 340R Track Geo setup.

===9. Uniball Toe links===
You don’t have to have solid/uniball rear toe links to run cut slicks - Lotus shipped the S2 135R and Exige on A048s with standard toe links, and there are many thousands of track miles done each year on these with an extremely low failure rate ... BUT the more hours you spend pushing the car hard on track up the curbs etc the higher your exposure to risk, so at some point when you have a spare £250 its worth doing. [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/S2_Toelink_Install How To: Install Toelink]

===10. Other Stuff===
Steering Wheel – you can bring the steering wheel 20mm closer, but it needs a new wheel (300mm Momo Team is usual £100) with an adaptor £20 and boss either fixed £50 or removable £100 [http://wiki.seloc.org/index.php/S2_Removable_Steering_Install How To:Install Steering Wheel]

Seats – Really nice but unnecessary (Budget £400, Eliseparts CF £550, 340R/Exige £700, Reverie Mulsanne £800) don’t forget you may need mounts or a frame conversion kit as well. Yes having shoulder and crutch holes is great, but with a properly fitted quality harness, the normal Elise seats are OK for track days.

===Vendors===
For stuff mentioned above checkout a mix ‘n match of:

[http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts]

[http://www.elise-shop.com Elise-Shop]

[http://www.hangar111.com Hangar111]

Replace the radiator & cooling fans

2007-01-08T12:08:13Z

Sinatra:

The '''[[radiator|aluminium cored radiator]]''' is positioned horizontally on top of the composite 'crash structure' in the front service compartment. A composite moulding is used to mount the radiator, and also, via extensions at each side, to provide a mounting point for the inside front of the clamshell wheelarch. The radiator must be removed for access to the cooling fan(s).

'''1. [[Remove the front clamshell]]'''

'''2. Drain the coolant and disconnect the feed and return hoses from the radiator'''
*You don't need to drain the whole cooling system, better to just undo the inlet and outlet hoses and catch the coolant in a bucket.
<gallery>
Image: Replace the radiator step 2a.jpg|Looking down onto the inlet pipe where bleed screw is located (MY04 Elise!)
</gallery>

'''3. Release the two fixings securing each water shield to the top rear edge of the radiator mounting panel, and withdraw both shields'''
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 3a.jpg|This photo shows the water shield removed
</gallery>

'''4. Release the tie wraps, and unplug the rad. fan harness connector(s)'''

'''5. Release the single fixing at the bottom of each side extension securing the mounting panel to the bottom flange of the crash structure'''

''NOTE: The procedure documented in the Lotus service notes describes removing the mounting panel to replace the radiator. This it not necessary and it is possible to remove the radiator with the mounting panel in place. This avoid having to remove the front harness wire as well''
*Step not taken.

'''6. Release the three fixings securing the back edge of the mounting panel to the vertical flange on the crash structure, and three fixings along the front edge of the panel'''
*Step not taken.

'''7. Release the four fixings securing the radiator to the mounting panel, and withdraw the panel from the radiator'''
*There are four 's' shaped brackets that hold the radiator in place.
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 7a.jpg|One of the rear brackets holding the radiator to the mounting panel
Image: replace the radiator step 7b.jpg|10mm spanner for this job
Image: replace the radiator step 7c.jpg|The front brackets are secured to the mounting panel here
</gallery>

'''8. Withdraw the radiator and cooling fan assembly. On AC cars, lift the radiator/condenser assembly only sufficiently to release the cooling fans or radiator as required, without disconnecting the refrigerant circuit'''
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 8a.jpg|Car void of radiator!
</gallery>
*The radiator is removed with the fans still attached.

'''9. Release the fan motor from the radiator by removing the four nuts securing the fan shroud to the mounting brackets riveted to the radiator frame. Withdraw the fan harness through the mounting panel grommet'''
*Here the fan tray can be seen attached to the underside of the radiator.
*The replacement Eliseparts radiator had to be drilled in order to take the fan tray assemble and mounting brackets.
<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 9a.jpg|Underside of radiator with fan tray attached
</gallery>

'''10. Remove the four screws securing the radiator to the mounting panel'''
*Step not taken!

'''11. Refit the radiator in reverse order to removal and [[Replace the coolant|refill with coolant and bleed]]'''
*The Eliseparts radiator had to be modified to fit the Elise, see below
*Make sure the jubilee clips are tight before fitting the clam back on
*Always verify the radiator is fitted correctly before refitting the front clam

==New Radiator Modifications==
The [http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts] hi-pressure radiator comes with only a couple of pre-drilled hole for securing to the mounting panel. Further holes need to be made to take the mounting brackets and fan tray assembly.

The simplest approach was to align the new radiator on top of the old OEM radiator and drill through. The holes do not have to be exact as there is allowable movement in mounting points on the panel.

<gallery>
Image: replace the radiator step 9b.jpg|New [http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts] hi-pressure radiator with insufficient securing holes
Image: replace the radiator step 9c.jpg|The new radiator has to be drilled to attach the mounting brackets and fan tray assembly
Image: replace the radiator step 9d.jpg|New radiator sitting on top of the old OEM rad for aligning the holes needed whilst drilling
</gallery>

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:DIY]]

Weight reduction

2007-01-08T12:07:29Z

Sinatra:

==Elise Weight Reduction==

Carbon clams are hideous money compared to the weight saved, and dont save much at all unless they are auto claved or vacuum formed. Benetec CF Front Clam 4,95kg Vs std at 15kg but 58k:(

Be very wary of poly side screens. They are very flexible and with the roof fitted flare out dramatically at speeds above 60MPH.

Early rear arch liners are 2.8kg. Later liners are lighter.

Removing the GRP where the reversing light and fog lights are, along with the grilles and the reversing light saves about 1kg.

The rubber seals around all four wheel arch liners (assuming you haven't ditched the arch liners) are about 200g each, and most of the boot lid seal can be removed with just token parts left in to prevent rattle giving about 1kg of saving.

Exhaust Exige/111R Catback: 13kg. Stage 1 11.8Kg(saves 1.2KG), Stage 2 8,2Kg(saves 4.8KG), , Quicksilver Titanium 5,2KG(saves 7,8KG)

S1 Weight Reduction

-12,5kg Titanium Exhaust system(std 16kg Vs 3.5Kg)

-12,2Kg Carbon fibre track seats (2,4kg vs 8.5 kg) x2

-11,2kg MMC discs instead of Iron disks (2,7Kg vs 5,5Kg each)

-8.65kg Race battery (2.7 vs 11.35)

-7,25Kg Lexan front window (5kg vs 12,25kg)

-6,8Kg Speedline Magnesium instead of std AWI 5 spoke (25kg vs 31,8kg)

-6.55K Alloy Fuel Tank

-4.4kg Carbon fibre fixed seat frames(2kg and 3kg vs 0,3KG)

-4.4kg Remove the door reinforcement on 2 doors

-4kg Remove Radio And speakers (Radio ~1,4Kg speakers ~1,6Kg)

-3,695Kg Soft top and mountings (Top 1,807kg, Siderails 1,888kg)

-3,3Kg Lightweight Flywheel

-2.55Kg Lightweight alternator (3.35 kg vs 5.9kg)

-2,5Kg Cat Replacement Pipe (1.8Kg Vs 4,3Kg)

-2,2Kg Billet Aluminium Crankshaft pulley

-2,136kg Back window

-2kg Alu boot lit instead of GRP(Glass Reinforced Plastics)

-2Kg Alu top engine mount

-1.994Kg Rollbarcover

-1,697kg Heat shield baggage compartment

-1.388kg Dressed baggage compartment

-1kg Leather sill covers

-1Kg Carbon fibre steering wheel (1.7kg vs 0.7kg)

-0,872kg Alu Ball joint mounts (1,308kg vs 0,436kg)

-0,8Kg Footwell divider

-0,6kg Handbrake and gear stick cover

-0.55kg Passenger footrest

-0,5kg Front Mud flaps

-0,4kg Alarm siren

-0.23kg Inner Rear view mirror

-1/2 of std Lightweight Starter Motor

-2/3 of std Polycarbonate/perspex rearscreen/sidescreens/frontscreen

-?kg Elispart solid 4-2-1 manifold 6kg std?kg

===Other Sorces of Information===

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=SteveB SteveB]

http://www.340r.net/technical/weight/weight.htm

http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=91178

http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27701

[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=128 Elise Parts Weight Reduction Section]

Throttle Position Sensor

2007-01-08T12:05:33Z

Sinatra:

The Throttle Position Sensor is a potentiometer attached to the [[Throttle Body]] which notifies the ECU about the position of the throttle. Among other things it helps the engine maintain a stable idle speed.

==Replacement==
It's often sold and replaced as part of the throttle body itself however can be replaced separately.

Idle Air Control Valve

2007-01-08T12:04:53Z

Sinatra:

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit (ECU, a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with ignition timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the driveability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnecting the ECU temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
===S1===
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburettor cleaner.
=="Resetting" the iacv==
Often people talk about "resetting the iacv" however there is no such procedure, they are probably referring to the [[Throttle Position Sensor]]
==Location==
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]

[[Category:Electrical]]

Acronyms

2007-01-08T11:44:35Z

Sinatra:

===Forum Acronyms===

{|
|-
| AFAIK
| '''A'''s '''F'''ar '''A'''s '''I''' '''K'''now
|-
| BS
| '''B'''ullshit
|-
| DAFL
| '''D'''ing '''A''' '''F'''**king '''L'''ing
|-
| DPM
| '''D'''ouble '''P'''osting '''M'''uppet
|-
| FFS
| '''S'''imon '''S'''cuffham
|-
| FRO
| '''F'''**k '''R'''ight '''O'''ff
|-
| g/f
| '''G'''irl'''f'''riend
|-
| GF
| '''G'''et '''F'''**ked
|-
|-
| GJOB
| '''G'''arage '''J'''ewellery '''O'''wning '''B'''a***rd
|-
| GLOL
| '''G'''enuinely '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| HTH
| '''H'''ope '''T'''hat '''H'''elps
|-
| IIRC
| '''I'''f '''I''' '''R'''ecall '''C'''orrectly
|-
| IMHO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''H'''umble '''O'''pinion
|-
| IMO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''O'''pinion
|-
| IYSWIM
| '''I'''f '''Y'''ou '''S'''ee '''W'''hat '''I''' '''M'''ean
|-
| LMAO
| '''L'''augh '''M'''y '''A'''ss '''O'''ff
|-
| LOL
| '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| MFTTL
| '''M'''ore '''F'''***ing '''T'''hings '''T'''o '''L'''earn
|-
| MMC
| '''M'''ade '''M'''e '''C'''huckle
|-
| ROFLOL
| '''R'''olling '''O'''n '''F'''loor '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| SEOT
| '''S'''orted '''E'''nd '''O'''f '''T'''hread
|-
| SWMBO
| '''S'''he '''W'''ho '''M'''ust '''B'''e '''O'''beyed
|-
| TADTS
| '''T'''hey '''A'''ll '''D'''o '''T'''hat '''S'''ir
|-
| TIA
| '''T'''hanks '''I'''n '''A'''dvance
|-
| TTIWWP
| '''T'''his '''T'''hread '''I'''s '''W'''orthless '''W'''ithout '''P'''ictures
|-
| VOE
| '''V'''oice '''O'''f '''E'''xperience
|-
| WJOB
| '''W'''rist '''J'''ewellery '''O'''wning '''B'''a***rd (see NeilR)
|}

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Wikipedia on Acronyms]

[http://www.acronymfinder.com/ AcronymFinder.com Every Acronym Ever!]

Driving light replacement

2007-01-08T11:40:11Z

Sinatra:

==How to replace the driving lamps on a Series 1 Elise without removing the front clam.==

• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnecessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a bayonet fitting, disconnect the new wiring from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.

• Put some silicon grease or vaseline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminium alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.

• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.

• remove the front grill - two posidrive screws on my 111S, these where very rusty and needed a very well fitting screwdriver to get them out. I replaced them with stainless (2x ¾inch No8)

• wrap a couple of layers of insulating tape around the corner of the "mouth" of the clamshell - to protect the paint.

• spray the threads of the three nylon fixing screws with silicon lube or WD40.

• remove the two inner Nylon screws, use a big screwdriver to prevent damage to the screw heads. Remove the springs behind the lugs taking care not to drop them into the clamshell.

• use a pad-saw fitted with a hacksaw blade to cut the outside lug off the light.

• withdraw the broken light.

• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.

• Its almost impossible to get this screw back in (because its so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roughly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.

• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.

• put a spring on the cut down nylon bolt and screw it into the really outer position - hidden behind in the corner of the clamshell. wind this in is far as you can with your fingers, it should now should compress the spring a little.

• put the new lamp in place

• use a small flat blade screwdriver to compress the outer spring and hook the opened lug on he lamp under the head of the nylon bolt.

• If you have gearys driving lamp covers now's the time to push one on on.

• put the two nylon bolts in with their springs behind them.

• plug in the blade connectors on the bulb and on the lamp housing, and put the cap on the back of the lamp.

• If you are replacing just one lamp, you need remove only the two inner screws and springs on the other lamp to allow enough movement to get one of gearys covers on that one too - don't forget to clean the old lamp, the covers don't come off!

• replace the front grill.

• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.

Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=79350&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=75120#pid2128150 Thread2]

If you are very careful this may take an hour.

[[Category:DIY]]

Driving light replacement

2007-01-07T21:44:31Z

Sinatra:

==How to replace the driving lamps on a Series 1 Elise without removing the front clam.==

• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnecessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a byonet fitting, disconnect the new wireing from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.

• Put some silicon grease or vaseline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminum alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.

• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.

• remove the front grill - two posidrive screws on my 111S, these where very rusty and needed a very well fitting screwdriver to get them out. I replaced them with stainless (2x ¾inch No8)

• wrap a couple of layers of insulating tape around the corner of the "mouth" of the clamshell - to protect the paint.

• spray the threads of the three nylon fixing screws with silicon lube or WD40.

• remove the two inner Nylon screws, use a big screwdriver to prevent damage to the screw heads. Remove the springs behind the lugs taking care not to drop them into the clamshell.

• use a pad-saw fitted with a hacksaw blade to cut the outside lug off the light.

• withdraw the broken light.

• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.

• Its almost impossible to get this screw back in (because its so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roubhly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.

• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.

• put a spring on the cut down nylon bolt and screw it into the really outer position - hidden behind in the corner of the clamshell. wind this in is far as you can with your fingers, it should now should compress the spring a little.

• put the new lamp in place

• use a small flat blade screwdriver to compress the outer spring and hook the opened lug on he lamp under the head of the nylon bolt.

• If you have gearys driving lamp covers now's the time to push one on on.

• put the two nylon bolts in with their springs behind them.

• plug in the blade connectors on the bulb and on the lamp housing, and put the cap on the back of the lamp.

• If you are replacing just one lamp, you need remove only the two inner screws and springs on the other lamp to allow enough movement to get one of gearys covers on that one too - don't forget to clean the old lamp, the covers don't come off!

• replace the front grill.

• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.

Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=79350&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=75120#pid2128150 Thread2]

If you are very carefull this may take an hour.

[[Category:DIY]]

Driving light replacement

2006-12-30T18:54:53Z

Sinatra:

==How to replace the driving lamps on a Serise 1 Elise without removing the fromt clam.==

• Look at your new lamp, Note where it has '''TOP''' moulded into the glass and cut the unnescessary lug, the upper, outer one from the new driving light (don't get this wrong!).

• remove the cap from rear of the new light - it is a byonet fitting, disconnect the new wireing from the lamp, you won't need this, but do look at where the connectors go, you will be attaching the old loom later and you will not be able to see what you are doing.

• Put some silicon grease or vasaline on the outer rim of the back of the new light - where the cap fits. This will make removing the cap when the bulb eventually dies much easier. The lamp housing is aluminum alloy and it tends to corrode in the rain and winter salt which makes getting the cap off a pain.

• cut a slot in the lower outer bracket on the new lamp, so an M8 screw shank will just slot in. The screw head is quite large and sits in a recess in the bracket so there is no chance of it slipping off once its held in place by the spring and the other two bolts.

• remove the front grill - two posidrive screws on my 111S, these where very rusty and needed a very well fitting screwdriver to get them out. I replaced them with stainless (2x ¾inch No8)

• wrap a couple of layers of insulating tape around the corner of the "mouth" of the clamshell - to protect the paint.

• spray the threads of the three nylon fixing screws with silicon lube or WD40.

• remove the two inner Nylon screws, use a big screwdriver to prevent damage to the screw heads. Remove the springs behind the lugs taking care not to drop them into the clamshell.

• use a pad-saw fitted with a hacksaw blade to cut the outside lug off the light.

• withdraw the broken light.

• you can now remove the last screw by pulling on the remaining scrap of the lug towards the middle of the car bending the nylon bolt a little, this will allow you to get a screwdriver on its head; remove and keep the spring behind the lug also.

• Its almost impossible to get this screw back in (because its so long), however it doesn't need to be this long. Cut roubhly ½ inch from one of the nylon bolts using a sharp knife. Taper the thread a little so the end is slightly pointed, this will make it easier to get back in. It needs to be about ½ inch longer than the lamp mounting spring.

• add some thick silicon lubricant to the threads - I used Hellerman lubricant which is meant for rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, its about the thickness of engine oil and makes refitting the screws much easier.

• put a spring on the cut down nylon bolt and screw it into the really outer position - hidden behind in the corner of the clamshell. wind this in is far as you can with your fingers, it should now should compress the spring a little.

• put the new lamp in place

• use a small flat blade screwdriver to compress the outer spring and hook the opened lug on he lamp under the head of the nylon bolt.

• If you have gearys driving lamp covers now's the time to push one on on.

• put the two nylon bolts in with their springs behind them.

• plug in the blade connectors on the bulb and on the lamp housing, and put the cap on the back of the lamp.

• If you are replacing just one lamp, you need remove only the two inner screws and springs on the other lamp to allow enough movement to get one of gearys covers on that one too - don't forget to clean the old lamp, the covers don't come off!

• replace the front grill.

• wait till dark and point the car at a wall about 10 feet away. turn on the driving lights and adjust the height of the new light so it matches its friend.

Much of the ideas above where lifted from previous posts to seloc:[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=79350&page=1#pid2172518 Thread1][http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=75120#pid2128150 Thread2]

If you are very carefull this may take an hour.

[[Category:DIY]]

Throttle Position Sensor

2006-12-30T15:12:33Z

Sinatra:

Idle Air Control Valve

2006-12-30T15:08:48Z

Sinatra:

[[Image:S2_K_Series_IACV.JPG|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S2 K-Series)]]
The '''Idle Air Control Valve''' (IACV), or '''stepper motor''', allows the electronic control unit (ECU, a.k.a. MEMS) to regulate the airflow to the engine independently of the driver's throttle input.

When the engine is idling MEMS uses this control (in parallel with igntion timing modulation) to compensate for varying loads that the engine must overcome to maintain the desired idle speed (i.e. friction, electrical load, A/C compressor load etc)

The IACV is also used to control airflow during load changes between positive and negative torque to provide a throttle damping function to improve the driveability characteristics of the vehicle.
{{clr}}

*S1 K-Series engined Elises use a Rover IACV (Part No. MLZ100090)
*S2 K-Series engined Elises use a different IACV (Lotus Part No. A117E6069S)

If you are suspiscious that your IACV may be stuck/jammed, you can test it by disconnecting and reconnececting the ECU temperature sender with the car ignition on (but not running). If it can move, you'll hear it chatter as it seeks to a new position when you unplug the sensor.

==Fitting and removal==
===S1===
Removal is a simple process and takes less than five minutes. It is held in place by two t20 torx screws although a 3mm allen key will also fit. The lower bolt is slightly harder to get at although easy when the IACV is disconnected from the loom. When removed it may be sooty and should be cleaned with carburetor cleaner.
=="Resetting" the iacv==
Often people talk about "resetting the iacv" however there is no such procedure, they are probably refering to the [[Throttle Position Sensor]]
==Location==
[[Image:IACV.jpg|thumb|left|Idle Air Control Valve (S1 K-Series)]]

[[Category:Electrical]]

Acronyms

2006-11-22T22:03:34Z

Sinatra:

===Forum Acronyms===

{|
|-
| BS
| '''B'''ullshit
|-
| DPM
| '''D'''ouble '''P'''osting '''M'''uppet
|-
| FFS
| '''F'''or '''F'''uck '''S'''ake
|-
| FRO
| '''F'''uck '''R'''ight '''O'''ff
|-
| g/f
| '''G'''irl'''f'''riend
|-
| GF
| '''G'''et '''F'''ucked
|-
| GLOL
| '''G'''enuine '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| HTH
| '''H'''ope '''T'''hat '''H'''elps
|-
| IIRC
| '''I'''f '''I''' '''R'''emember '''C'''orrectly
|-
| IMO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''O'''pinion
|-
| IMHO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''H'''umble '''O'''pinion
|-
| LMAO
| '''L'''augh '''M'''y '''A'''ss '''O'''ff
|-
| LOL
| '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| MMC
| '''M'''ade '''M'''e '''C'''huckle
|-
| PPMCTYIFAF
| '''P'''lease '''P'''ass '''M'''y '''C'''ompliments '''T'''o '''Y'''our '''I'''mmediate '''F'''amily '''A'''nd '''F'''riends
|-
| ROFLOL
| '''R'''olling '''O'''n '''F'''loor '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| TADTS
| '''T'''hey '''A'''ll '''D'''o '''T'''hat '''S'''ir
|-
| TIA
| '''T'''hanks '''I'''n '''A'''dvance
|-
| TTIPWP
| '''T'''his '''T'''hread '''I'''s '''P'''ointless '''W'''ithout '''P'''ics
|-
| VOE
| '''V'''oice '''O'''f '''E'''xperience
|}

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Wikipedia on Acronyms]

[http://www.acronymfinder.com/ AcronymFinder.com Every Acronym Ever!]

Acronyms

2006-11-22T22:03:09Z

Sinatra:

===Forum Acronyms===

{|
|-
| BS
| '''B'''ullshit
|-
| DPM
| '''D'''ouble '''P'''osting '''M'''uppet
|-
| FFS
| '''F'''or '''F'''uck '''S'''ake
|-
| FRO
| '''F'''uck '''R'''ight '''O'''ff
|-
| g/f
| '''G'''irl'''f'''riend
|-
| GF
| '''G'''et '''F'''ucked
|-
| GLOL
| '''G'''enuine '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| HTH
| '''H'''ope '''T'''hat '''H'''elps
|-
| IIRC
| '''I'''f '''I''' '''R'''emember '''C'''orrectly
|-
| IMO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''O'''pinion
|-
| IMHO
| '''I'''n '''M'''y '''H'''umble '''O'''pinion
|-
| LMAO
| '''L'''augh '''M'''y '''A'''ss '''O'''ff
|-
| LOL
| '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| MMC
| '''M'''ade '''M'''e '''C'''huckle
|-
| PPMCTYIFAF
| '''P'''lease '''P'''ass '''M'''y '''C'''ompliments '''T'''o '''Y'''our '''I'''mmediate '''F'''amily '''A'''nd '''F'''riends
|-
| ROFLOL
| '''R'''olling '''O'''n '''F'''loor '''L'''aughing '''O'''ut '''L'''oud
|-
| TADTS
| '''T'''hey '''A'''ll '''D'''o '''T'''hat '''S'''ir
|-
| TIA
| '''T'''hanks '''I'''n '''A'''dvance
|-
| TTIPWP
| '''T'''his '''T'''hread '''I'''s '''P'''ointless '''W'''ithout '''P'''ics
|-
| VOE
| '''V'''oice '''O'''f '''E'''xperiance
|}

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Wikipedia on Acronyms]

[http://www.acronymfinder.com/ AcronymFinder.com Every Acronym Ever!]

Smaller Rear View Mirror

2006-11-22T21:38:35Z

Sinatra:

If you drive a lot of twisty country roads you may have found that the JUMBO sized OEM rear view mirror gets in the way, obscuring a lot of the view out of the windscreen.

==Daewoo mirror==
[[Image:daewoomatiz.jpg|thumb|100px|right|Daewoo Matiz]] A cheap alternative is to fit the mirror from a daewoo matiz (funny wee 3 cylinder shopping trolly, i'd guess most big scrappys would have a few crashed ones. - my local breaker in Glasgow had 5 today.

[[Image:matizmirror.jpg|alt text]]

The pic shows the new one in place above and the old one below in comparison. - it doesn't look like an enormous difference in size, but it makes a BIG difference when you're driving the car!

This mod works for S1s and early S2s. These rear view mirrors have their ball joints in the centre of the back of the mirror.
The mod does not work for 111Rs and S2 exiges. These have their ball joints on the top of the mirror.
I don't know if it works for later K-engined S2s.

Instructions :

1 - remove lotus mirror, by sliding the whole thing (including its stalk) upwards towards the top of the windscreen. - it just slides up leaving a small flat mounting plate in place on the windscreen.

2 - remove the mirror from the stalk by popping the "ball and socket" joint out of joint, - just angle it too far in any direction forcably.

3 - find a Daewoo Matiz in a scrappy. - don't bother trying to remove the stalk and all from the windscreen (i couldn't manage), just dislocate the ball and socket joint in the same way. Just take the mirror leaving the stalk behind.

4 - put the new mirror face down on something soft like your seat, put the ball on the end of your Lotus stalk into the socket of the Daewoo mirror and shove downwards HARD untill it clicks into place.

5 - slide the whole thing back onto the windscreen mounting.

Bingo!

Mine cost me all of £3!!! It works a treat. Much improved visibility, and you retain the lever on the bottom to "dip" the mirror.

== Child view mirror ==
Another option is a stick-on mirror from halfords, easy to fit and also quite cheap.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_222191_langId_-1_CarSelectorCatalogId__CarSelectorGroupId__varient__categoryId_52210_crumb__parentcategoryrn_52210

[[Category:DIY]]

Talk:Tyres

2006-11-09T10:24:41Z

Sinatra:

Whilst I don't know the information to put in it wouldn't the tyre/wheel table look better like this?
{| border="1"
|-
| ||[[S2_Wheel_Options#OZ_Racing|OZ Racing]]||[[S2_Wheel_Options#Rimstock_6-spoke|Standard S2]]||Standard S1
|-
|[[#AO48 LTS|Yokohama AO48]]||Yes|| ||
|-
|[[#AD07 LTS|Yokohama AD07]]|| ||Yes||
|-
|[[#RE040|Bridgestone RE040]]|| || 175/55/16 - 225/45/17 ||
|-
|Toyo T1-R |||| 185/50/16 - 225/45/17|| 195/50x15 - 225/45x16 or 180/?/? - 205/?/?
|}

Also this table, lifted from the article uses a double pipe for table elements rather than a single one? - scratch that, it's a different wiki implementation to what I'm used to :(

Talk:Tyres

2006-11-09T10:22:11Z

Sinatra:

Whilst I don't know the information to put in it wouldn't the tyre/wheel table look better like this?
{| border="1"
|-
| ||[[S2_Wheel_Options#OZ_Racing|OZ Racing]]||[[S2_Wheel_Options#Rimstock_6-spoke|Standard S2]]||Standard S1
|-
|[[#AO48 LTS|Yokohama AO48]]||Yes|| ||
|-
|[[#AD07 LTS|Yokohama AD07]]|| ||Yes||
|-
|[[#RE040|Bridgestone RE040]]|| || 175/55/16 - 225/45/17 ||
|-
|Toyo T1-R|||||| 185/50/16 - 225/45/17| 195/50x15 - 225/45x16 or 180/?/? - 205/?/?
|}

Also this table, lifted from the article uses a double pipe for table elements rather than a single one?

Talk:Tyres

2006-11-09T10:20:57Z

Sinatra:

{| border="1"
|-
| ||[[S2_Wheel_Options#OZ_Racing|OZ Racing]]||[[S2_Wheel_Options#Rimstock_6-spoke|Standard S2]]||Standard S1
|-
|[[#AO48 LTS|Yokohama AO48]]||Yes|| ||
|-
|[[#AD07 LTS|Yokohama AD07]]|| ||Yes||
|-
|[[#RE040|Bridgestone RE040]]|| || 175/55/16 - 225/45/17 ||
|-
|Toyo T1-R|||||| 185/50/16 - 225/45/17| 195/50x15 - 225/45x16 or 180/?/? - 205/?/?
|}

Acronyms

2006-11-03T08:36:11Z

Sinatra:

===Forum Acronyms===

'''TADTS''' = '''T'''hey '''A'''ll '''D'''o '''T'''hat '''S'''ir

'''HTH''' = '''H'''ope '''T'''hat '''H'''elps

'''MMC''' = '''M'''ade '''M'''e '''C'''huckle

'''IIRC''' = '''I'''f '''I''' '''R'''emember '''C'''orrectly

'''GF''' = '''G'''et '''F'''ucked

'''g/f''' = '''G'''irl'''f'''riend

'''TTIPWP''' = '''T'''his '''T'''hread '''I'''s '''P'''ointless '''W'''ithout '''P'''ics

'''FFS''' = '''F'''or '''F'''uck '''S'''ake

'''FRO''' = '''F'''uck '''R'''ight '''O'''ff

'''DPM''' = '''D'''ouble '''P'''osting '''M'''uppet

'''LOL''' = '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud

'''GLOL''' = '''G'''enuine '''L'''augh '''O'''ut '''L'''oud

'''BS''' = '''B'''ullshit

'''IMO''' = '''I'''n '''M'''y '''O'''pinion

'''IMHO''' = '''I'''n '''M'''y '''H'''umble '''O'''pinion

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acronym Wikipedia on Acronyms]

Lotus specialists

2006-10-18T11:51:11Z

Sinatra:

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://www.judeperformance.co.uk/ Jude Performance Services]
| Unit 1,Naylor Court,Blaydon,Tyne & Wear, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NE21+5NH(Jude+Performance) NE21 5NH]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+0NB(PTP) LE10 0NB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| Tom Horsburgh
(Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Grayshott, Hampshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU26+6LB(Tom+Horsburgh) GU26 6LB]
Contact via: Adrian Blyth (01428) 608255
|-
| [http://www.westovergroup.co.uk/ Westover]
| 17 Witney Road, Poole, Dorset, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BH17+0GL(Westover) BH17 0GL]
|-
| [http://www.williamsautomobiles.com/ Williams Automobiles]
| St Philips Causeway, Avonmeads Bristol, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BS4+3BD(Williams+Automobiles) BS4 3BD]
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

Lotus specialists

2006-10-18T11:36:45Z

Sinatra:

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://www.judeperformance.co.uk/ Jude Performance Services]
| Unit 1,Naylor Court,Blaydon,Tyne & Wear, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NE21+5NH(Jude+Performance) NE21 5NH]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+0NB(PTP) LE10 0NB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| Tom Horsburgh
(Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Grayshott, Hampshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU26+6LB(Tom+Horsburgh) GU26 6LB]
Contact via: Adrian Blyth (01428) 608255
|-
| [http://www.williamsautomobiles.com/ Williams Automobiles]
| St Philips Causeway, Avonmeads Bristol, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BS4+3BD(Williams+Automobiles) BS4 3BD]
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

Lotus specialists

2006-10-18T10:59:30Z

Sinatra:

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://www.judeperformance.co.uk/ Jude Performance Services]
| Unit 1,Naylor Court,Blaydon,Tyne & Wear, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NE21+5NH(Jude+Performance) NE21 5NH]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+0NB(PTP) LE10 0NB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| Tom Horsburgh
(Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Grayshott, Hampshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU26+6LB(Tom+Horsburgh) GU26 6LB]
Contact via: Adrian Blyth (01428) 608255
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

Lotus specialists

2006-10-18T10:57:54Z

Sinatra:

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair and maintenance.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://www.judeperformance.co.uk/ Jude Performance Services]
| Unit 1,Naylor Court,Blaydon,Tyne & Wear, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NE21+5NH(Jude+Performance) NE21 5NH]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty Sportscars]
| 12 Old Birmingham Road, Bromsgrove, Worcestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B60+1DE(Paul+Matty+Sportscars) B60 1DE]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+ONB(PTP) LE10 0NB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.specialisedpaintwork.com/ Specialised Paintwork]
| Unit 4b, Pincents Kiln, Calcott, Reading, Berkshire, RG31 7SD, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RG31+7SD(Specialised+Paintwork) RG31 7SD]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|-
| Tom Horsburgh
(Lotus/TVR bodywork repair/paint work)
| Grayshott, Hampshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU26+6LB(Tom+Horsburgh) GU26 6LB]
Contact via: Adrian Blyth (01428) 608255
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.vansten.nl/ Van Sten Engineering ]
| Rijkstraatweg 9c, 2635 AC Den Hoorn (ZH)
|}

===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}

===Belgium===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.lotuscars.be/ Frédéric Koninckx Motors]
| Maarschalk Gerardstraat 6, 2000 Antwerpen
|-
| [http://www.lotus-verhiest.com/ Thierry Verhiest]
| Joseph Plateaustraat 5, 8400 Oostende
|-
| [http://www.tmips.be/partners/lotuslecler/ Lotus Lecler]
| Rue de L'Yser 65, 4430 Luik
|-
| [http://www.fvhmotors.be/ FVH Motors]
| Deken Debostraat 51, 8791 Beveren-Leie (Waregem)
|}

Replace the coolant

2006-09-10T21:51:02Z

Sinatra:

To drain the engine cooling system, remove the header tank cap, and disconnect the radiator feed and return hoses from the rear ends of the water rails running down each sill.

After refilling with suitable coolant the system will need to [[bleed]] the system.

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:DIY]]

Bleed the cooling system

2006-09-10T21:48:58Z

Sinatra:

==How to bleed the cooling system==
There are two bleed screws on the Elise cooling system. One is on the front left-hand side on the hose that exits the radiator. You may be able to reach it from above by shoving your hand down next to the radiator shroud. Otherwise turn the wheel on full right-hand lock and you should find it behind the wheelarch liner. If not remove the road wheel and you'll see it no problem.

The other is in the engine bay on the metal pipe that runs across the top of the gearbox. (8mm)

The best way to bleed the system is to remove the expansion tank cap and allow the car to idle until it reaches 60C or so. Then increase the revs to around 2000/2500rpm. Once the return pipe is hot in the engine bay (the one with the bleed screw) and the radiator is hot all over the thermostat has opened and you can bleed the system.

Be very careful not to lose the bleed screws or any washers on them. And be very careful of the hot coolant. I find two or three pairs of latex gloves insulate enough to prevent burning.

handy hint - the front bleed screw can be best turned by using a 10p coin in the slot of the screw head. Much easier than trying to turn it by the knurling on the edge and much much easier than getting a screwdriver in there... Take care not to over-tighten this screw as well.

Oh and as you're bleeding keep an eye on the coolant level and top it up if it gets low - you don't want to draw even more air into the system!!

Bleed the cooling system

2006-09-10T21:46:21Z

Sinatra:

There are two bleed screws on the Elise cooling system. One is on the front left-hand side on the hose that exits the radiator. You may be able to reach it from above by shoving your hand down next to the radiator shroud. Otherwise turn the wheel on full right-hand lock and you should find it behind the wheelarch liner. If not remove the road wheel and you'll see it no problem.

The other is in the engine bay on the metal pipe that runs across the top of the gearbox. (8mm)

The best way to bleed the system is to remove the expansion tank cap and allow the car to idle until it reaches 60C or so. Then increase the revs to around 2000/2500rpm. Once the return pipe is hot in the engine bay (the one with the bleed screw) and the radiator is hot all over the thermostat has opened and you can bleed the system.

Be very careful not to lose the bleed screws or any washers on them. And be very careful of the hot coolant. I find two or three pairs of latex gloves insulate enough to prevent burning.

handy hint - the front bleed screw can be best turned by using a 10p coin in the slot of the screw head. Much easier than trying to turn it by the knurling on the edge and much much easier than getting a screwdriver in there... Take care not to over-tighten this screw as well.

Oh and as you're bleeding keep an eye on the coolant level and top it up if it gets low - you don't want to draw even more air into the system!!

Brake discs

2006-08-17T12:06:21Z

Sinatra: /* Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes */

=Lotus Elise Disk Brakes=

==Lotus Elise S1 Disk Brakes==
Standard discs (Vented).

Lotus Part Number: A111J0128F
[[Image:A111J0128F.JPG|thumb|Vented S1 OEM Disk]]

"Lotus Motorsport" discs as fitted to the 111s (Cross drilled and Vented).

Lotus Part Number: A111J0141F
[[Image:A111J0141F.JPG|thumb|Cross drilled and Vented S1 Disk]]

==Lotus Elise S2 Disk Brakes==

288mm Vented Discs

==Vaxuall VX200 Disk Brakes==

288mm Vented Discs with ABS

==Lotus 340R Disk Brakes==

The Lotus 340r was equiped with the same Cross drilled disks as seen on the Series 1 111s and Sport 160 editions as shown above.

Lotus Part Number:A111J0141F

==Lotus Europa Disk Brakes==

288mm Vented Discs with ABS

=Elise Disk Brake Upgrade Options=

[http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=157&zenid=a2860acbb2e0d419982d9d1196ced354 Elise Parts]

=Other sources of information=

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Disk_brake Wikipedia on Disk Brakes]

[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s1/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S1 Disk Brakes]

[http://www.elises.co.uk/components/s2/brakes/index.html Elises.co.uk on S2 Disk Brakes]

[http://www.hubert.racegame.org/brakes.html HubSpace.net on Disk Brakes]

Brake pads

2006-06-04T23:05:53Z

Sinatra:

List of brake pad manufacturers with descriptions and real world experiences from SELOC members.

==EBC "Greenstuff"==
A commonly used budget pad, OK for normal road use but don't cope to well when pushed.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* Eat discs.
* Not as effective from cold.
* Very track orientated pad so not ideal on the road.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==SBS==

Template talk:Infobox Timetools

2006-06-03T22:13:37Z

Sinatra:

Shouldn't this also have a "parts" entry in it?

Oil and filter change

2006-06-03T21:53:42Z

Sinatra:

{{timetools infobox |
time = 20-30 mins|
tools = 14mm spanner, filter removal tool, new oil drain plug sealing washer, tools for removing undertray|
}}

Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear.

==Procedure==
# Warm engine up
# Raise rear of car.1
# [[undertray|Remove middle undertray]].
# Remove the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover.
# Remove sump plug and drain oil into something that will hold 5 litres of fluid.
# Replace sump plug washer and screw in sump plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.
# Remove oil filter.
# Smear some oil on the seal of new filter and screw on.
# Pour 4 litres of whatever oil in the engine.
# Start engine, don't rev and observe oil light going out. Have a nose underneath for a possible leak at the filter. Tighten if necessary.
# Turn engine off.
# [[undertray|Replace undertray]]
# Lower car, leave for a short while and check dipstsick.

==Notes==

1Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands. I reverse mine onto ramps, but if you've got some blocks of wood that are approx 3 inches + tall then you can squeeze underneath without too much bother.

Lotus specialists

2006-06-03T21:37:17Z

Sinatra:

Lotus specialists

2006-06-03T21:36:26Z

Sinatra: Added sportomotive

Garages that are not necessarily Lotus dealers but otherwise specialise in Lotus repair.

[http://www.seloc.org/benefits.php?bc=2 Current discounts available to SELOC Members]

===UK===
In alphabetical order we have...
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://www.blinkmotorsport.com/ BLiNK Motorsport]
| Unit 4, Home Farm, Oulton Park, Cheshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=CW6+9BL(BLiNK+Motorsport) CW6 9BL]
|-
| [http://www.brooke-kensington.co.uk/ Brooke Kensington]
| Unit E6, Telford Road, Bicester, Oxfordshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=OX26+4LD(Brooke+Kensington) OX26 4LD]
|-
| [http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]
| Progress Garage, Yapton Lane, Walberton, Arrundal, West Sussex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=BN18+0AS(Fibreglass+Services) BN18 0AS]
|-
| [http://www.scaredstifff.com/ Guglielmi Motorsport]
| 11 Alvis Way, Royal Oak Way Ind. Estate, Daventry, Northants, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=NN11+8PG(Guglielmi+Motorsport) NN11 8PG]
|-
| [http://www.horizonmotorsport.co.uk/ Horizon Motorsport]
| Units 3 & 4, Lodge Forge Trading Estate, Cradley Road, Cradley Heath, West Midlands, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=B64+7RW(Horizon+Motorsport) B64 7RW]
|-
| [http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lakesideengineering/ Lakeside Engineering]
| Capital House, Woodham Park Road, Woodham, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=KT15+3TG(Lakeside+Engineering) KT15 3TG]
|-
| [http://www.maidstonesportscars.co.uk/home.asp Maidstone Sports Cars]
| The Oast House, Great Tong Farm, Headcorn, Kent, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=TN27+9PP(Maidstone+Sports+Cars) TN27 9PP]
|-
| [http://www.plansmotorsport.com/ Plans Motorsport]
| 19 Dunsfold Park, Dunsfold, Surrey, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=GU6+8TB(Plans+Motorsport) GU6 8TB]
|-
| [http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects (PTP)]
| Trinity House, Coventry Road, Hinckley, Leicestershire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=LE10+ONB(PTP) LE10 ONB]
|-
| [http://www.racingdevelopments.com/ Racing Developments]
| 50 Tanners Drive, Blakelands, Milton Keynes, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=MK14+5BW(Racing+Developments) MK14 5BW]
|-
| [http://www.sinclairemotorsport.com/ Sinclaire of London]
| Sinclaire House, Avenue Estate, Gallows Corner, Romford, Essex, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=RM3+0BY(Sinclaire+of+London) RM3 0BY]
|-
| [http://www.sportomotiveservice.com/ Sportomotive]
| Harnham Garage, Newbridge Road, Salisbury, Wiltshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SP2+8AA(Sportomotive) SP2 8AA]
|-
| [http://www.swlotus.com/ Steve Williams Sports Cars]
| Unit 5, Cordwallis Street, Maidenhead, Berkshire, [http://maps.google.co.uk/?hl=en&q=SL6+7BE(Steve+Williams+Sports+Cars) SL6 7BE]
|}

===France===
===Netherlands===
===Italy===
{| border="1"
!Name & Website !! Address & Google Map Link
|-
| [http://pb.nuvolari3000.com/ PB Racing]
| Pb racing S.r.l, 44 Via provinciale, [http://maps.google.it/?hl=en&q=44+Via+provinciale,+Lallio,+24040 24040 Lallio (Bergamo)]
|}