2008-02-17T21:08:02Z

Steve69:

==Renovo==

==Cheapskate renovation==

My hood has covered nearly 100k miles and had started to get a green moss tint. It didn't
look dirty but it sure looked cleaner after renovation. It had not faded so I did not investigate
soft top dyeing products.

You will need:

* [http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0101514 Pure soap flakes] from Wilkinson
* [http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/9528240 Dog brush] from Wilkinson)
* [http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/invt/0248038 A 2 inch wide paintbrush] from Wilkinson
* [http://www.blacks.co.uk/Fabsil-Universal-Protecto/product/099115.aspx?searchbreadcrumbs=fabsil Fabsil] from Blacks

Some people rave about Thompsons Water seal, however I was worried that this could
damage the hood so I chose to use Fabsil.

Pure soap is the least likely to damage your hood, ordinary cloths detergent is probably fine too,
don't use wasking up liquid as this has loads of salt in it which will eventually rot the hood.

The dog brush is great as it is fairly coarse (like a firm tooth brush), reasonably big so it holds
the soap and has a handy strap that stops the brush slipping out of your hand when the soap really
starts to fly.

Buy a big can of Fabsil for about 15 quid, this should be enough for four coatings.

Mix about an egg cup full of soap flakes with about four pints or warm water, I used a saucepan for this.
Lay the soft top on a flat surface (e.g. a garden table) and scrub it hard. If you have a moss/green slime problem
then you will see this coming off.

Hang up the soft top up (on a washing line) and spray it with a garden hose, keep spraying until the water is all
coming off clean.

leave the soft top hanging for a few hours, ideally in the sun, until its dry.

pour some Fabsil into a cereal bowl and paint it onto the outside of the soft top, make sure all the folds
and pleats are throughly soaked.

hang up the soft top again.

let the hood dry completely, the tin says fabsil can take 6 hours to dry, however on a winters day in some
sunshine it only took about 2 hours for mine to dry.

refit to the car - the hood will have shrunk a bit but it will stretch again with a few uses.

Battery

2007-01-23T13:09:33Z

Steve69: /* S1 Fitting */

[[image:Delphi.jpg|left]]
{{clr}}

===Battery Coding===

Most common batteries have a type number (UK) & this generally decides the physical size & the pole type/configuration but not the current rating as type numbers are available in several capacities eg 44A to around 70A.

The more modern numbering system is the ETN system.

eg '''580'''-'''063'''-'''039'''

In which the 1st three digits are the current rating ('''-500''') then the configuration & physical size ('''type number 063''') & the last three are cold cranking ('''X100''') so in this example the battery specs are: 80A - type063 - 390A cold cranking.

*'''Voltage''' - 12V

*'''Capacity''' - 55Ah

*'''CCA(EN)''' - 540A / 390A / 450A (but not important)

*'''Dimensions(mm):''' 242 x 175 x 175

===Battery "Conditioning"===

'''Please add Info'''

Like many things in life, the term “maintenance-free” is only partially true. Lead-acid batteries normally consume some of the water in their dilute sulfuric acid electrolyte during a normal charge-discharge cycle. It actually electrolyzes into hydrogen and oxygen and escapes as gas. So adding water periodically is necessary to keep the plates flooded. Maintenance-free batteries use a calcium alloy of lead instead of an antimony alloy, which reduces the amount of electrolysis. In addition, the amount of free-standing electrolyte above the plates is designed to be much higher in a new maintenance-free battery. This means that there’s enough electrolyte to keep the plates covered even after a few seasons of normal use. So, during the battery’s normal service life there should be no need to add water. Any abnormal electrical system condition or high ambient temperatures may boil off more than the normal amount of water, however. Adding water may extend the service life of these supposedly maintenance-free batteries, although one should be careful not to over dilute the electrolyte level.

The extended use of battery chargers or conditioners may also cause the electrolyte levels in the cells to be reduced. Indeed, some battery conditioners that are marketed as being suitable for permanent connection are not suited for this - they can also reduce the electrolyte level over time. This is because they deliver a constant, allbeit very low, current to the battery.

A truely intelligent conditioner should not have this problem, as they monitor the charge in the battery, adjusting the charge given to the battery as necessary. The Accumate is one such charger, although there are others that should be suitable.

[[image:battery1.JPG|thumb|left|Battery filler caps may be concealed under a tab or even under a large vinyl label.]][[image:battery3.JPG|thumb|left|A built-in hydrometer eye is a good check, but won’t necessarily find a bad battery.]][[image:battery4.JPG|thumb|left|A Cut Away of a maintenance-free Battery.]]

{{clr}}

===Halfords - K-Series ===

Code: Type 063

It is on their computer system if you cant remember and need to ask them. Also remember there is a SELOC discount for all members at Halfords - check the benefits pages for instructions.

They might offer to fit it, but after checking their computer they'll find a warning that they've had problems with Elise immobilisers, and then decline to fit it for you. Alledgedly their problem was with immobilisers on early S1's, but dont fear, just following the handbook procedure for S2's certainly produced no problems at all.

===S1 Fitting===

The Bosch Silver plus battery is difficult to get but I am assured the Varta silver plus is the same battery re-badged - it sounds plausable as it has the same part number 543-107-048.

You will need a torks screwdriver to remove the plastic blind rivits which attach the radiator cowel.

Remove the pastic cover over the wiper motor cover also,
these just make space to manover the battery.

Remove the winscreen washer bottle, the battery clamp it attaches to and its three screws.

I had to cut two tie-wraps to free some cables below the radiator cowel - so I could pull them out of the way.

As with all car battries always remove the negitive terminal first and reattach it last - in case the spanner shorts the terminal to the cars bodywork this will prevent sparks / red hot spanners; [this is reversed on positive earth cars].

The battery is a bit of a tight squeeze but you should now be able to lift it out of the car.

The new battery does not have the same type of handle as the Lotus part.

People have suggested using a piece of wood to make up the difference, or even manufacturing a new bracket. I just cut the handle off the the old battery and stuck it onto the "step" on the old one with some sticky foam pads.

Lotus sell a modified battery clamp for about a tenner [Link to B&C's website] which will fit even better but that means you have to rembember to order it.

The supplier assured me the battery was sealed - '''IT IS NOT!'''

There are '''two''' vent holes on either side of the battery, about 1/4 inch in diameter. I used the passanger side one for the vent pipe, and plugged the driver's side one with the blanking plug which comes free, moulded onto the battery's handle.

The battery breather is '''Very''' important, not fitting the battery breater or forgetting to plug the seccond hole the Varta batteries have can mean concetrated sulfuric acid sloshing around inside your car - Not a good thing.

Rembember to smear the terminals with vasaline before reattaching the cables, this helps stop corrosion.

If you are keen, remove the other end of the earth strap where it attaches to the chassis and clean it with emmery paper, grease it with vasaline and refit - this can help with the "Engine temperature appears to change when I turn on the heater fan" problem.

Took me 40 mins, would have been half that if I had known the above beforehand.

===S2 K-series Fitting===

The procedure is described in the Owners Handbook and is pretty self explanatory:

1. Undo the retaining clamp at the base of the battery (6mm allen key required), and slide the battery out of the retaining shoe so you have easy access to the terminals. If you're doing this on your own - loosen the negative black earth cable nut slightly BUT DONT DISCONNECT IT JUST YET.

2. Turn all lights, radios, satnav etc equipment off.

3. Turn the ignition off and wait about 10 seconds for the engine management system to settle down.

4. '''DONT''' arm the alarm or immoboliser

5. Within 25 seconds of turning off the ignition (ie before the immobiliser/alarm kicks in), disconnect the negative black earth cable from the battery. '''ALWAYS''' disconnect the black first.

6. Disconnect the positive red cable from the battery.

7. Swap the old battery out, transfer the terminal connectors to the new battery, put the new battery into the boot so you can work on it to reconnect the terminal cables.

8. Connect the positive red cable to the new battery.

9. Connect the negative black cable to the new battery (have the keyfob to hand just in case the alarm goes off). '''ALWAYS''' reconnect the black last.

10. Slide it back into the retaining shoe, refit the 6mm clamp.

===S2 Yoda Fitting===

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_battery Wikipedia On Car Batteries]