TechWiki - User contributions [en-gb]

Alternator

2017-06-14T12:33:29Z

YvoTuk: /* Alternator Heat Protection */

[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Engine]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

[[Image:alternator.jpg|thumb|left|Rover K Series Alternator]]
{{clr}}

==Alternator==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator Wikipedia on Alternator]

Electrical pack replacement.

If you have a problem with the brushes or the electrical pack in general, a new part can be bought from WOODAUTO. (www.woodauto.com). To order, you will need to call them.

My alternator on a S1 Elise stopped working, so I removed it from the car. Took the electrical pack off, and saw the tails from the brushes were no longer connected to their connections, corrosion was the reason.

The electrical pack off mine had ref. RTM152b. On the Woods website, this came up but their ref. is VRG36884 RMI. This item cost £24 plus VAT. All in all, posted to my door cost me £30.00 with VAT.

Refer to the current guild for a photo of the electical pack. It is the black part which has been removed from the alternater. No major rebuild at all if this is the problem.

Time take, 1hr.

Information added by Britspeed off Seloc.

==Alternator Problem Diagnosis==

Common failures:

Regulator & Rectifier failure:

Battery lights flash on dash, headlights flash on when trying to start. When checking the voltage across the battery terminals readings are usually less then 12v, or can be open circuit and go high voltage 18v. This can have a detrimental affect on the battery - boils the acid/fluid if too high. Easiest solution - Remove the alternator and get checked by auto electrician.

The battery warning light on dash and flashing headlights can also be caused by a flat battery. There is a clicking as the solenoid etc click over but the engine will not start.

Bearing Failure for S2 111s and other model with 4-2-1 exhaust:

Due to the additional width of the 4-2-1 pipes, failure of the rear bearing is not uncommon.
The heat from the pipes cooks the grease until the bearing runs dry and very loud.
Noise produced sounds like metal grinding against metal.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Removal==
Should take about 1hr:
#Disconnect the battery
#Remove offside rear wheel and wheel arch liner
#Remove plastic cam cover - three 8mm screws
#Remove any exhaust manifold heat shield
#Remove main (largest) wire from alternator 13mm nut. You can't remove the control wire (clip on connector) yet as the heat shield is in the way. Leave this for now.
#Remove 15mm tension bolt
#Remove 15mm top bolt
#Pry alternator from bracket. Start with small flat head screwdriver and gradually move to larger size as the alternator moves out.
#Disconnect control wire plug and remove belt from pully
#Extract alternator from above

*Removing the undertray offers no advantage although removing the boot lid is helpful.

Hi Guys,

Make sure that if your battery light comes on, before dismantling the alternator from the car etc, check the live wire from the starter motor to the alternator. It sits underneath the inlet manifold and if original contains a fuse & a brown sleeve.

Mine broke through corrosion from water leaks, if it breaks your battery wont charge at all leading to a lot of head scratching.

Lotusboy90

==Removal from Air Con Cars==
I find it best to remove the engine cover to gain direct access from directly above the alternator. Get the gas removed from the system before you touch the pipes.
#Release the tension in the auxillary belt by slackening the pulley tension bolt (remove the belt). The pulley sits inbetween the engine and compressor.
#Undo the nut attaching the smaller rubber aircon pipe to the sill pipe in the wheel arch. This will allow you access to the larger pipe.
#Remove the top alternator bolt and the bracket holding the air con pipes together.
#Slacken the bottom alternator bolt through the wheel arch. This should allow you to pivot the alternator away from the top alternator bracket.
#Remove the top bracket.
#Use the appropriate allen key to remove the bolt holding the large air con pipe on to the compressor. You can access the bolt through the wheel arch.
#From above either slacken (or remove)the smaller air con pipe going to the compressor.
#Using a ratchet spanner or similar, access the bottom alternator bolt from above (I found it best to stand in the cockpit!) Use a 1/4 inch ratchet with extension to access the back bolt.
#Extract alternator from above.

==Regulator==
Very common for these to fail. Can be replaced for about £60.

[[File:Bosch alternator regulator f00m145269.JPG|thumb|Bosch Alternator Regulator]]

==Alternator belt==

You can change the alternator belt by taking off the rear drivers side wheel and plastic inner arch mud guard. Removing the undertray will give no advantage. You will just need a good socket set, though you can get to A and B easily enough with a 15mm spanner.

Loosen 'A' pivot bolt and 'B' tensioner bolt, to allow the alternator to 'swing'.

'C' on the diagram is the tensioner of the belt, loosen this to remove the belt. The tensioner bolt is the 8mm bolt on the end of the arm. It slots into the end of the arm and allows the adjustment. Difficult to see when peering in, but easy enough to locate.

The MG Rover part number for a belt for the S1 is PQS100840 and costs about £10.50 including VAT. - This part number may be correct if you're going to a Rover dealer, but UniPart gave me a different belt when I asked for that number, the correct belt was UniPart number GMV50738 - AL...Ease 27/08/09

'''Tension belt''' to the following on S2:
For heater cars - one way deflection of 6-8mm under moderate finger pressure
For AC cars - as previous but 9-10mm

[[Image:alternator1.jpg|thumb|left|Alternator as shown on elise S2]]
{{clr}}[[Image:servicealternator.jpg]]
{{clr}}

==Alternator Heat Protection==

Heat-shield fabrics claim to reflect up to 90% of the heat radiated by the exhaust and can function at temperatures unto 2000 degrees Fahrenheit.

The potential downside is that the critical components are also thermally insulated from the inside and could therefore suffer from internally generated heat, ie too much protection could make matter worse.

http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=289

http://www.elise-shop.com/thermal-management-c-43_106.html

Material can be bought here :-

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=heat

There are option to improve the standard of the existing manifold shielding or to wrap the exhaust. Both of which [[may]] just push the heat elsewhere and cause problems further down the line.

Please add your Info, Just click EDIT

==Sourcing Replacement==

It is not recommended to purchase Chinese manufactured pattern replacement alternators for the Elise, such as those commonly advertised on eBay. They are not built to withstand sustained high revs and are guaranteed to fail prematurely. These include:

*Unipoint (ALT-4212)

Known good models include:

*Magneti Marelli (63321239)
*Bosch - OE part
*02 111s BOSCH 0124225011
*Denso DAN014/YLE101520

== Alternator Re-build ==

Should your alternator bearing pack up and you don't want to buy a new one (£165) or exchange (£120-140) or repair (£40), then you can always fix it yourself.

Doing this may stop you from being able to exchange an alternator at a later date, if you have any worries stop now.

1. Remove the alternator from the car as described above, access can only be achieved through the wheel arch, with the drivers rear wheel removed. Good luck getting it out between the engine mount and the fuel filler pipes, stick with it!

2. Once you've got the alternator on the bench remove the 2 nuts and the 1 screw holding the plastic cover on and remove, then undo the 3 screws (a&b + c not shown!) holding the electrical parts on - remove sideway and slide out with the commutators attached.

[[Image:alternator1a.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

3. Undo the 4 long bolts, I used a screw driver with a hex shaft and drove it round with a spanner.

4. Using a sturdy flat blade screw drive prise the 2 halves of the body apart. This takes time and you have to work methodically work round from one side to another.

[[Image:alternator2.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

5. Using a 2 or 3 leg puller pull the bearing off the shaft. I used a small hollow nut to protect the plastic shroud on the shaft, so that the centre of the puller pushed against metal instead of plastic.

[[Image:alternator3.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

6. Measure the bearing using a vernier. Mine was 35mmOD, 17mmID by 10mm -- SKF 6003.
Go here

Enter you bearing dimensions and obtain a product code. Then take that code over to eBay and see if you can find a 99p replacement!
You could go for an uprated high temperature bearing but make sure the rpm rating is up to the job.

7. Refit the new bearing by either using a deep socket and drift or make a press from a jack, some wood and wedge under something heavy.

8. Align the 2 halves of the alternator and refit the 4 long bolts, tighten each one a 1/4 turn until tight. Refit the electronics in the reverse of disassemble, making sure to push the commutator back in first.

[[Image:alternator4.jpg|thumb|left|Click to make bigger]]
{{clr}}

EDIT by Dobbo. There is another bearing at the pulley end. No sense in just doing one whilst it's off the car and in bits. The pulley nut is 24mm. You'll need an impact wrench to undo it, or find a way to clamp it in a vice without damaging the pulley. I used several layers of very heavy duty tape and clamping it very tightly. There's also 4 screws to undo. Once the nut is off, there's a washer and you'll need to drift the rotor out of the bearing. Take care not to drop it when if comes free. The bearing remains in the alternator chassis and will also need drifting out. I used the same 24mm socket that I used for the pulley nut.

9. Refit to the car, reconnect the wiring and tension the belt as above.

Alternator parts supplier
http://www.woodauto.com/Unit.aspx?Man=BOSCH&Ref=0124225011

==Alternator Pulley Information ==

Assume tickover at 900 rpm for the warning light to go out.

Standard pulley diameter 48mm, light goes out at 900 rpm, equivalents are
57mm needs 996 rpm
67mm needs 1183 rpm
80mm needs 1503 rpm

Belt sizes are 5pk 738, next size up is 5pk 778 (Gates)

Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat

2015-02-19T09:20:20Z

YvoTuk: /* PRRT Colours */

A '''Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat (PRRT)''', or sometimes just '''PRT''', is used to increase the amount of coolant flowing around the engine.
The PRRT has a bypass valve opening when the coolant pump is flowing too much coolant for the radiator circuit.
This valve is reducing pressure difference inside the whole circuit, achieving at the same time a more constant temperature inside the engine.

'''Note:''' The acronym '''PRT''' means '''Pressure Relief Thermostat'''. This setup was developed by Bill Hutchins and used by Rover, MG and Landrover, it has been in use in mid engined cars for 25 years, and an Elise system was previously developed by Simon Scuffham when racing his k-series engined elise. '''PRRT''' is actually a misnomer (albeit harmless), allegedly invented by one of the members of the Seloc forum. The PRRT acronym may not actually be recognised by anyone outside of the Seloc forum (including anyone involved in the design, manufacture or assembly of the device) though is perhaps a more accurate description as the second R refers to '''remote'''.

==PRRT Colours==

* Cream is 87°C With Medium Spring: first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.
* Black is 82°C With Hard Spring: Not suitable for Rover K engines.
* Grey is 82°C With Light Spring: Latest being used on Freelander (MGF/TF ?). Land Rover replace the old stat (87°C) with this one if they have to open the coolant circuit. '''''THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT !!!'''''

[information added by Yvo Tuk from elise-shop.com] 
The above mentioned colour information is outdated.

There are four manufacturers of the actual remote thermostat units nowadays (2015).
Some of them stick to the original colour scheme and some deliver their thermostats in the same colour for every temperature.
We currently ship kits with cream coloured 82°C thermostats.
We've also seen black and yellow thermostats in 82°C.

The temperature is stamped in the actual thermostat which can be seen through one of the hose connections.

==PRRT Part Numbers==
'''PCH001190''' Land Rover cream PRRT kit (including all the hoses and clips needed to make it fit). It is meant to be fitted on a Freelander. ('''''BUY this for an early S1''''')
http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/freelander_0026.pdf

'''PEL500150''' Land Rover Part grey PRRT kit (full hoses kit, similar to PCH001190 but with a non useable plastic elbow with small takeoff). Not easy to adapt to the Elise. This kit may also be difficult to obtain.

'''PCH003320''' MG cream PRRT kit. This kit is for the MGF which cooling system is very close to the Elise's so it requires less modifications than the Land Rover kit. It's also cheaper and only requires the addition of a piece of aluminium tube as a hose joiner, which can be cut from a discarded tube from the original system. ('''''BUY this except early S1''''')

'''PEL500110''' Land Rover grey PRRT (standalone) ('''''BUY this''''')

'''PEM101020''' Rover part number for both Black and Cream PRRT (standalone) - the fact two different thermostats share the same part number could cause some confusion. The downside with the cream PRRT is that (unless at temperature?) the stat won't open below 1500-1750 rpm due to the spring rate.

'''PEL000040''' a metal polo mint replaces the old thermostat in the housing which pulls left out of the water pump before disassembly (BUY this)

'''PEM00020P''' is a complete new dummy thermostat assembly with PEL000040 fitted. It also includes the two O rings for insertion of the assembly into the water pump.

For DIY instructions on fitting please see the [[Fit a PRRT]] guide.

==PR(R)T for Dummies==

===What parts are needed:===

====Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail)====
* Land Rover Freelander kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH001190 from Land Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Land Rover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Land Rover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x?
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

For fitting, go there: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=104578&page=1

====S2 and Late S1 (Lower Aluminium water rail)====
* MG-Rover MGF CVT automatic kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH003320 from MG-Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Landrover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Landrover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x1
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

===Fitting modifications===
Don't take values as a gospel, go progressively:
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_origine_et_modif.jpg
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_a_la_longueur.jpg

A guide for fitting MGF kit can be found here:
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=134324&page=1

==F.A.Q.==

* Can I just replace the original thermostat without changing hoses?
** => No you can't. The thermostat wouldn't fit to begin with, and it requires a different circuit setup to work.

* What do I use if I have / I want to fit an oilcooler?
** => Go for the "Early S1" list. The landrover Kit has more hoses to play with, it will be easier to adapt. Have a look at [http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's site] (Elise S1) for examples.

* Isn't there a Kit with the grey (82°C) so I don't have to buy it separetly?
** => Yes, LandRover has a Freelander kit comming with the Grey stat. It's ref is PEL500150. It's apparently harder to adapt to the elise because of different hoses/elbows. Beside, most of the cost of the kit comes from the hoses. So you'd better choose the right hose kit and them change the stat.

== External links ==
* http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's Comprehensive Approach
* http://111ti.free.fr/elise_cooling_jul2005/
* http://arc.seloc.org/p/2344458
* http://arc.seloc.org/t/110181
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm
* http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=67593&Forum=All_Forums&Words=PEL500150&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=66091&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post67593
* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy-Kp-0hj9Y

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat

2015-02-19T09:20:00Z

YvoTuk: /* PRRT Colours */

A '''Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat (PRRT)''', or sometimes just '''PRT''', is used to increase the amount of coolant flowing around the engine.
The PRRT has a bypass valve opening when the coolant pump is flowing too much coolant for the radiator circuit.
This valve is reducing pressure difference inside the whole circuit, achieving at the same time a more constant temperature inside the engine.

'''Note:''' The acronym '''PRT''' means '''Pressure Relief Thermostat'''. This setup was developed by Bill Hutchins and used by Rover, MG and Landrover, it has been in use in mid engined cars for 25 years, and an Elise system was previously developed by Simon Scuffham when racing his k-series engined elise. '''PRRT''' is actually a misnomer (albeit harmless), allegedly invented by one of the members of the Seloc forum. The PRRT acronym may not actually be recognised by anyone outside of the Seloc forum (including anyone involved in the design, manufacture or assembly of the device) though is perhaps a more accurate description as the second R refers to '''remote'''.

==PRRT Colours==

* Cream is 87°C With Medium Spring: first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.
* Black is 82°C With Hard Spring: Not suitable for Rover K engines.
* Grey is 82°C With Light Spring: Latest being used on Freelander (MGF/TF ?). Land Rover replace the old stat (87°C) with this one if they have to open the coolant circuit. '''''THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT !!!'''''

[information added by Yvo Tuk from elise-shop.com]
The above mentioned colour information is outdated.

There are four manufacturers of the actual remote thermostat units nowadays (2015).
Some of them stick to the original colour scheme and some deliver their thermostats in the same colour for every temperature.
We currently ship kits with cream coloured 82°C thermostats.
We've also seen black and yellow thermostats in 82°C.

The temperature is stamped in the actual thermostat which can be seen through one of the hose connections.

==PRRT Part Numbers==
'''PCH001190''' Land Rover cream PRRT kit (including all the hoses and clips needed to make it fit). It is meant to be fitted on a Freelander. ('''''BUY this for an early S1''''')
http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/freelander_0026.pdf

'''PEL500150''' Land Rover Part grey PRRT kit (full hoses kit, similar to PCH001190 but with a non useable plastic elbow with small takeoff). Not easy to adapt to the Elise. This kit may also be difficult to obtain.

'''PCH003320''' MG cream PRRT kit. This kit is for the MGF which cooling system is very close to the Elise's so it requires less modifications than the Land Rover kit. It's also cheaper and only requires the addition of a piece of aluminium tube as a hose joiner, which can be cut from a discarded tube from the original system. ('''''BUY this except early S1''''')

'''PEL500110''' Land Rover grey PRRT (standalone) ('''''BUY this''''')

'''PEM101020''' Rover part number for both Black and Cream PRRT (standalone) - the fact two different thermostats share the same part number could cause some confusion. The downside with the cream PRRT is that (unless at temperature?) the stat won't open below 1500-1750 rpm due to the spring rate.

'''PEL000040''' a metal polo mint replaces the old thermostat in the housing which pulls left out of the water pump before disassembly (BUY this)

'''PEM00020P''' is a complete new dummy thermostat assembly with PEL000040 fitted. It also includes the two O rings for insertion of the assembly into the water pump.

For DIY instructions on fitting please see the [[Fit a PRRT]] guide.

==PR(R)T for Dummies==

===What parts are needed:===

====Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail)====
* Land Rover Freelander kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH001190 from Land Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Land Rover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Land Rover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x?
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

For fitting, go there: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=104578&page=1

====S2 and Late S1 (Lower Aluminium water rail)====
* MG-Rover MGF CVT automatic kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH003320 from MG-Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Landrover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Landrover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x1
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

===Fitting modifications===
Don't take values as a gospel, go progressively:
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_origine_et_modif.jpg
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_a_la_longueur.jpg

A guide for fitting MGF kit can be found here:
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=134324&page=1

==F.A.Q.==

* Can I just replace the original thermostat without changing hoses?
** => No you can't. The thermostat wouldn't fit to begin with, and it requires a different circuit setup to work.

* What do I use if I have / I want to fit an oilcooler?
** => Go for the "Early S1" list. The landrover Kit has more hoses to play with, it will be easier to adapt. Have a look at [http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's site] (Elise S1) for examples.

* Isn't there a Kit with the grey (82°C) so I don't have to buy it separetly?
** => Yes, LandRover has a Freelander kit comming with the Grey stat. It's ref is PEL500150. It's apparently harder to adapt to the elise because of different hoses/elbows. Beside, most of the cost of the kit comes from the hoses. So you'd better choose the right hose kit and them change the stat.

== External links ==
* http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's Comprehensive Approach
* http://111ti.free.fr/elise_cooling_jul2005/
* http://arc.seloc.org/p/2344458
* http://arc.seloc.org/t/110181
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm
* http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=67593&Forum=All_Forums&Words=PEL500150&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=66091&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post67593
* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy-Kp-0hj9Y

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat

2015-02-19T09:00:16Z

YvoTuk: /* PRRT Colours */

A '''Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat (PRRT)''', or sometimes just '''PRT''', is used to increase the amount of coolant flowing around the engine.
The PRRT has a bypass valve opening when the coolant pump is flowing too much coolant for the radiator circuit.
This valve is reducing pressure difference inside the whole circuit, achieving at the same time a more constant temperature inside the engine.

'''Note:''' The acronym '''PRT''' means '''Pressure Relief Thermostat'''. This setup was developed by Bill Hutchins and used by Rover, MG and Landrover, it has been in use in mid engined cars for 25 years, and an Elise system was previously developed by Simon Scuffham when racing his k-series engined elise. '''PRRT''' is actually a misnomer (albeit harmless), allegedly invented by one of the members of the Seloc forum. The PRRT acronym may not actually be recognised by anyone outside of the Seloc forum (including anyone involved in the design, manufacture or assembly of the device) though is perhaps a more accurate description as the second R refers to '''remote'''.

==PRRT Colours==

* Cream is 87°C With Medium Spring: first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.
* Black is 82°C With Hard Spring: Not suitable for Rover K engines.
* Grey is 82°C With Light Spring: Latest being used on Freelander (MGF/TF ?). Land Rover replace the old stat (87°C) with this one if they have to open the coolant circuit. '''''THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT !!!'''''

[information added by Yvo Tuk from elise-shop.com]

The above mentioned colour information is outdated.

There are four manufacturers of the actual remote thermostat units nowadays (2015).
Some of them stick to the original colour scheme and some deliver their thermostats in the same colour for every temperature.
We currently ship kits with cream coloured 82°C thermostats.
We've also seen black and yellow thermostats in 82°C.

The temperature is stamped in the actual thermostat which can be seen through one of the hose connections.

==PRRT Part Numbers==
'''PCH001190''' Land Rover cream PRRT kit (including all the hoses and clips needed to make it fit). It is meant to be fitted on a Freelander. ('''''BUY this for an early S1''''')
http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/freelander_0026.pdf

'''PEL500150''' Land Rover Part grey PRRT kit (full hoses kit, similar to PCH001190 but with a non useable plastic elbow with small takeoff). Not easy to adapt to the Elise. This kit may also be difficult to obtain.

'''PCH003320''' MG cream PRRT kit. This kit is for the MGF which cooling system is very close to the Elise's so it requires less modifications than the Land Rover kit. It's also cheaper and only requires the addition of a piece of aluminium tube as a hose joiner, which can be cut from a discarded tube from the original system. ('''''BUY this except early S1''''')

'''PEL500110''' Land Rover grey PRRT (standalone) ('''''BUY this''''')

'''PEM101020''' Rover part number for both Black and Cream PRRT (standalone) - the fact two different thermostats share the same part number could cause some confusion. The downside with the cream PRRT is that (unless at temperature?) the stat won't open below 1500-1750 rpm due to the spring rate.

'''PEL000040''' a metal polo mint replaces the old thermostat in the housing which pulls left out of the water pump before disassembly (BUY this)

'''PEM00020P''' is a complete new dummy thermostat assembly with PEL000040 fitted. It also includes the two O rings for insertion of the assembly into the water pump.

For DIY instructions on fitting please see the [[Fit a PRRT]] guide.

==PR(R)T for Dummies==

===What parts are needed:===

====Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail)====
* Land Rover Freelander kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH001190 from Land Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Land Rover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Land Rover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x?
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

For fitting, go there: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=104578&page=1

====S2 and Late S1 (Lower Aluminium water rail)====
* MG-Rover MGF CVT automatic kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH003320 from MG-Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Landrover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Landrover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x1
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

===Fitting modifications===
Don't take values as a gospel, go progressively:
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_origine_et_modif.jpg
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_a_la_longueur.jpg

A guide for fitting MGF kit can be found here:
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=134324&page=1

==F.A.Q.==

* Can I just replace the original thermostat without changing hoses?
** => No you can't. The thermostat wouldn't fit to begin with, and it requires a different circuit setup to work.

* What do I use if I have / I want to fit an oilcooler?
** => Go for the "Early S1" list. The landrover Kit has more hoses to play with, it will be easier to adapt. Have a look at [http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's site] (Elise S1) for examples.

* Isn't there a Kit with the grey (82°C) so I don't have to buy it separetly?
** => Yes, LandRover has a Freelander kit comming with the Grey stat. It's ref is PEL500150. It's apparently harder to adapt to the elise because of different hoses/elbows. Beside, most of the cost of the kit comes from the hoses. So you'd better choose the right hose kit and them change the stat.

== External links ==
* http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's Comprehensive Approach
* http://111ti.free.fr/elise_cooling_jul2005/
* http://arc.seloc.org/p/2344458
* http://arc.seloc.org/t/110181
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm
* http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=67593&Forum=All_Forums&Words=PEL500150&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=66091&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post67593
* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy-Kp-0hj9Y

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat

2015-02-19T09:00:03Z

YvoTuk: /* PRRT Colours */

A '''Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat (PRRT)''', or sometimes just '''PRT''', is used to increase the amount of coolant flowing around the engine.
The PRRT has a bypass valve opening when the coolant pump is flowing too much coolant for the radiator circuit.
This valve is reducing pressure difference inside the whole circuit, achieving at the same time a more constant temperature inside the engine.

'''Note:''' The acronym '''PRT''' means '''Pressure Relief Thermostat'''. This setup was developed by Bill Hutchins and used by Rover, MG and Landrover, it has been in use in mid engined cars for 25 years, and an Elise system was previously developed by Simon Scuffham when racing his k-series engined elise. '''PRRT''' is actually a misnomer (albeit harmless), allegedly invented by one of the members of the Seloc forum. The PRRT acronym may not actually be recognised by anyone outside of the Seloc forum (including anyone involved in the design, manufacture or assembly of the device) though is perhaps a more accurate description as the second R refers to '''remote'''.

==PRRT Colours==

* Cream is 87°C With Medium Spring: first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.
* Black is 82°C With Hard Spring: Not suitable for Rover K engines.
* Grey is 82°C With Light Spring: Latest being used on Freelander (MGF/TF ?). Land Rover replace the old stat (87°C) with this one if they have to open the coolant circuit. '''''THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT !!!'''''

[information added by Yvo Tuk from elise-shop.com]

The above mentioned colour information is outdated.

There are four manufacturers of the actual remote thermostat units nowadays (2015).
Some of them stick to the original colour scheme and some deliver their thermostats in the same colour for every temperature.
We currently ship kits with cream coloured 82°C thermostats.
We've also seen black and yellow thermostats in 82°C.

The temperature is stamped in the actual thermostat which can be seen through one of the hose connections.

==PRRT Part Numbers==
'''PCH001190''' Land Rover cream PRRT kit (including all the hoses and clips needed to make it fit). It is meant to be fitted on a Freelander. ('''''BUY this for an early S1''''')
http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/freelander_0026.pdf

'''PEL500150''' Land Rover Part grey PRRT kit (full hoses kit, similar to PCH001190 but with a non useable plastic elbow with small takeoff). Not easy to adapt to the Elise. This kit may also be difficult to obtain.

'''PCH003320''' MG cream PRRT kit. This kit is for the MGF which cooling system is very close to the Elise's so it requires less modifications than the Land Rover kit. It's also cheaper and only requires the addition of a piece of aluminium tube as a hose joiner, which can be cut from a discarded tube from the original system. ('''''BUY this except early S1''''')

'''PEL500110''' Land Rover grey PRRT (standalone) ('''''BUY this''''')

'''PEM101020''' Rover part number for both Black and Cream PRRT (standalone) - the fact two different thermostats share the same part number could cause some confusion. The downside with the cream PRRT is that (unless at temperature?) the stat won't open below 1500-1750 rpm due to the spring rate.

'''PEL000040''' a metal polo mint replaces the old thermostat in the housing which pulls left out of the water pump before disassembly (BUY this)

'''PEM00020P''' is a complete new dummy thermostat assembly with PEL000040 fitted. It also includes the two O rings for insertion of the assembly into the water pump.

For DIY instructions on fitting please see the [[Fit a PRRT]] guide.

==PR(R)T for Dummies==

===What parts are needed:===

====Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail)====
* Land Rover Freelander kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH001190 from Land Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Land Rover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Land Rover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x?
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

For fitting, go there: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=104578&page=1

====S2 and Late S1 (Lower Aluminium water rail)====
* MG-Rover MGF CVT automatic kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH003320 from MG-Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Landrover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Landrover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x1
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

===Fitting modifications===
Don't take values as a gospel, go progressively:
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_origine_et_modif.jpg
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_a_la_longueur.jpg

A guide for fitting MGF kit can be found here:
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=134324&page=1

==F.A.Q.==

* Can I just replace the original thermostat without changing hoses?
** => No you can't. The thermostat wouldn't fit to begin with, and it requires a different circuit setup to work.

* What do I use if I have / I want to fit an oilcooler?
** => Go for the "Early S1" list. The landrover Kit has more hoses to play with, it will be easier to adapt. Have a look at [http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's site] (Elise S1) for examples.

* Isn't there a Kit with the grey (82°C) so I don't have to buy it separetly?
** => Yes, LandRover has a Freelander kit comming with the Grey stat. It's ref is PEL500150. It's apparently harder to adapt to the elise because of different hoses/elbows. Beside, most of the cost of the kit comes from the hoses. So you'd better choose the right hose kit and them change the stat.

== External links ==
* http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's Comprehensive Approach
* http://111ti.free.fr/elise_cooling_jul2005/
* http://arc.seloc.org/p/2344458
* http://arc.seloc.org/t/110181
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm
* http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=67593&Forum=All_Forums&Words=PEL500150&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=66091&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post67593
* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy-Kp-0hj9Y

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat

2015-02-19T08:59:38Z

YvoTuk: /* PRRT Colours */

A '''Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat (PRRT)''', or sometimes just '''PRT''', is used to increase the amount of coolant flowing around the engine.
The PRRT has a bypass valve opening when the coolant pump is flowing too much coolant for the radiator circuit.
This valve is reducing pressure difference inside the whole circuit, achieving at the same time a more constant temperature inside the engine.

'''Note:''' The acronym '''PRT''' means '''Pressure Relief Thermostat'''. This setup was developed by Bill Hutchins and used by Rover, MG and Landrover, it has been in use in mid engined cars for 25 years, and an Elise system was previously developed by Simon Scuffham when racing his k-series engined elise. '''PRRT''' is actually a misnomer (albeit harmless), allegedly invented by one of the members of the Seloc forum. The PRRT acronym may not actually be recognised by anyone outside of the Seloc forum (including anyone involved in the design, manufacture or assembly of the device) though is perhaps a more accurate description as the second R refers to '''remote'''.

==PRRT Colours==

* Cream is 87°C With Medium Spring: first being used on FreeLander & MGF/TF.
* Black is 82°C With Hard Spring: Not suitable for Rover K engines.
* Grey is 82°C With Light Spring: Latest being used on Freelander (MGF/TF ?). Land Rover replace the old stat (87°C) with this one if they have to open the coolant circuit. '''''THIS IS THE ONE YOU WANT !!!'''''

[information added by Yvo Tuk from elise-shop.com]
The above mentioned colour information is outdated.

There are four manufacturers of the actual remote thermostat units nowadays (2015).
Some of them stick to the original colour scheme and some deliver their thermostats in the same colour for every temperature.
We currently ship kits with cream coloured 82°C thermostats.
We've also seen black and yellow thermostats in 82°C.

The temperature is stamped in the actual thermostat which can be seen through one of the hose connections.

==PRRT Part Numbers==
'''PCH001190''' Land Rover cream PRRT kit (including all the hoses and clips needed to make it fit). It is meant to be fitted on a Freelander. ('''''BUY this for an early S1''''')
http://www.mgfcar.de/hgf/freelander_0026.pdf

'''PEL500150''' Land Rover Part grey PRRT kit (full hoses kit, similar to PCH001190 but with a non useable plastic elbow with small takeoff). Not easy to adapt to the Elise. This kit may also be difficult to obtain.

'''PCH003320''' MG cream PRRT kit. This kit is for the MGF which cooling system is very close to the Elise's so it requires less modifications than the Land Rover kit. It's also cheaper and only requires the addition of a piece of aluminium tube as a hose joiner, which can be cut from a discarded tube from the original system. ('''''BUY this except early S1''''')

'''PEL500110''' Land Rover grey PRRT (standalone) ('''''BUY this''''')

'''PEM101020''' Rover part number for both Black and Cream PRRT (standalone) - the fact two different thermostats share the same part number could cause some confusion. The downside with the cream PRRT is that (unless at temperature?) the stat won't open below 1500-1750 rpm due to the spring rate.

'''PEL000040''' a metal polo mint replaces the old thermostat in the housing which pulls left out of the water pump before disassembly (BUY this)

'''PEM00020P''' is a complete new dummy thermostat assembly with PEL000040 fitted. It also includes the two O rings for insertion of the assembly into the water pump.

For DIY instructions on fitting please see the [[Fit a PRRT]] guide.

==PR(R)T for Dummies==

===What parts are needed:===

====Early S1 (Upper aluminium water rail)====
* Land Rover Freelander kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH001190 from Land Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Land Rover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Land Rover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x?
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

For fitting, go there: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=104578&page=1

====S2 and Late S1 (Lower Aluminium water rail)====
* MG-Rover MGF CVT automatic kit with cream thermostat (88°C): PCH003320 from MG-Rover
* Thermostat blanking plate (the seal comes with it): PEL000040 from Landrover or MG-Rover
* Optionnal: Grey thermostat (82°C, lighter springs): PEL500110 from Landrover
* Hose Joiner 32 mm diam. x1
* Hose clips 32 mm diam. x?

===Fitting modifications===
Don't take values as a gospel, go progressively:
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_origine_et_modif.jpg
http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/26904/Adapt_kit_MGF_a_la_longueur.jpg

A guide for fitting MGF kit can be found here:
http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=134324&page=1

==F.A.Q.==

* Can I just replace the original thermostat without changing hoses?
** => No you can't. The thermostat wouldn't fit to begin with, and it requires a different circuit setup to work.

* What do I use if I have / I want to fit an oilcooler?
** => Go for the "Early S1" list. The landrover Kit has more hoses to play with, it will be easier to adapt. Have a look at [http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's site] (Elise S1) for examples.

* Isn't there a Kit with the grey (82°C) so I don't have to buy it separetly?
** => Yes, LandRover has a Freelander kit comming with the Grey stat. It's ref is PEL500150. It's apparently harder to adapt to the elise because of different hoses/elbows. Beside, most of the cost of the kit comes from the hoses. So you'd better choose the right hose kit and them change the stat.

== External links ==
* http://web.tiscali.it/elise_s1/index.htm Carlo's Comprehensive Approach
* http://111ti.free.fr/elise_cooling_jul2005/
* http://arc.seloc.org/p/2344458
* http://arc.seloc.org/t/110181
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/engines/development_history_of_the_K.htm
* http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/common_problems/hgf_pages/why_do_hgfs.htm
* http://www.exiges.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=67593&Forum=All_Forums&Words=PEL500150&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=66091&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post67593
* http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy-Kp-0hj9Y

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T08:05:54Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (µ=0.40)
* RC6Es is an Endurance spec, specifically made for the Elise (µ=0.44) (**)
* RC6 is medium (µ=0.50)
* RC8 is high (µ=0.6) (*)

(*) RC8 has a high friction index compared to other pads.
To use RC8 on front brakes of a light car like the Elise would make the car lock up quickly and could be tricky.
Currently RC8 is available as a rear pad only and is used as a relatively cheap way to shift the brake balance of the car further to the rear.

(**) RC6Es is a specific compound which is formulated for and during the time LOT was doing the Dubai and Barcelona 24hr races. The friction level is slightly below RC6 but the compound is designed to last longer at constant (high) temperature levels. This pad is not suited for road use as it will wear discs and pads very quickly when cold. Only at the operating temperature the wear factory will become very low which means you'd be able to squeeze 24hrs of racing out of one set of pads.

The RC6Es compound is exclusive to elise-shop.com

It is recommended not to mix CL Brakes pads with organic pads on the car. The advantage of sintered pads is they offer their highest friction level directly from first application of the brakes where organic pads have to be warmed up to make them reach their desired friction level.
When you mix sintered with organic on the same car the brake balance would constantly shift while warming up the organic pads.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

Lotus has used two versions of the AP 4-pot calipers where one version came with thicker pads. When CL-Brakes introduced the 4-pot pads, they were designed for the early calipers which meant you'd have to grind 1mm of material away to be able to use them on the new calipers.
Nowadays, this problem is resolved.

With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T08:05:05Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (µ=0.40)
* RC6Es is an Endurance spec, specifically made for the Elise (µ=0.44) (**)
* RC6 is medium (µ=0.50)
* RC8 is high (µ=0.6) (*)

(*) RC8 has a high friction index compared to other pads.
To use RC8 on front brakes of a light car like the Elise would make the car lock up quickly and could be tricky.
Currently RC8 is available as a rear pad only and is used as a relatively cheap way to shift the brake balance of the car further the the rear.

(**) RC6Es is a specific compound which is formulated for and during the time LOT was doing the Dubai and Barcelona 24hr races. The friction level is slightly below RC6 but the compound is designed to last longer at constant (high) temperature levels. This pad is not suited for road use as it will wear discs and pads very quickly when cold. Only at the operating temperature the wear factory will become very low which means you'd be able to squeeze 24hrs of racing out of one set of pads.

The RC6Es compound is exclusive to elise-shop.com

It is recommended not to mix CL Brakes pads with organic pads on the car. The advantage of sintered pads is they offer their highest friction level directly from first application of the brakes where organic pads have to be warmed up to make them reach their desired friction level.
When you mix sintered with organic on the same car the brake balance would constantly shift while warming up the organic pads.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

Lotus has used two versions of the AP 4-pot calipers where one version came with thicker pads. When CL-Brakes introduced the 4-pot pads, they were designed for the early calipers which meant you'd have to grind 1mm of material away to be able to use them on the new calipers.
Nowadays, this problem is resolved.

With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T08:04:48Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (µ=0.40)
* RC6Es is an Endurance spec, specifically made for the Elise (µ=0.44) (**)
* RC6 is medium (µ=0.50)
* RC8 is high (µ=0.6) (*)

(*) RC8 has a high friction index compared to other pads.
To use RC8 on front brakes of a light car like the Elise would make the car lock up quickly and could be tricky.
Currently RC8 is available as a rear pad only and is used as a relatively cheap way to shift the brake balance of the car further the the rear.

(**) RC6Es is a specific compound which is formulated for and during the time LOT was doing the Dubai and Barcelona 24hr races. The friction level is slightly below RC6 but the compound is designed to last longer at constant (high) temperature levels. This pad is not suited for road use as it will wear discs and pads very quickly when cold. Only at the operating temperature the wear factory will become very low which means you'd be able to squeeze 24hrs of racing out of one set of pads.

The RC6Es compound is exclusive to elise-shop.com

It is recommended not to mix CL Brakes pads with organic pads on the car. The advantage of sintered pads is they offer their highest friction level directly from first application of the brakes where organic pads have to be warmed up to make them reach their desired friction level.
When you mix sintered with organic on the same car the brake balance would constantly shift while warming up the organic pads.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

Lotus has used two versions of the AP 4-pot calipers where one version came with thicker pads. When CL-Brakes introduced the 4-pot pads, they were designed for the early calipers which meant you'd have to grind 1mm of material away to be able to use them on the new calipers.
Nowadays, this problem is resolved.

With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T08:04:30Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (µ=0.40)
* RC6Es is an Endurance spec, specifically made for the Elise (µ=0.44) (**)
* RC6 is medium (µ=0.50)
* RC8 is high (µ=0.6) (*)

(*) RC8 has a high friction index compared to other pads.
To use RC8 on front brakes of a light car like the Elise would make the car lock up quickly and could be tricky.
Currently RC8 is available as a rear pad only and is used as a relatively cheap way to shift the brake balance of the car further the the rear.

(**) RC6Es is a specific compound which is formulated for and during the time LOT was doing the Dubai and Barcelona 24hr races. The friction level is slightly below RC6 but the compound is designed to last longer at constant (high) temperature levels. This pad is not suited for road use as it will wear discs and pads very quickly when cold. Only at the operating temperature the wear factory will become very low which means you'd be able to squeeze 24hrs of racing out of one set of pads.
The RC6Es compound is exclusive to elise-shop.com

It is recommended not to mix CL Brakes pads with organic pads on the car. The advantage of sintered pads is they offer their highest friction level directly from first application of the brakes where organic pads have to be warmed up to make them reach their desired friction level.
When you mix sintered with organic on the same car the brake balance would constantly shift while warming up the organic pads.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

Lotus has used two versions of the AP 4-pot calipers where one version came with thicker pads. When CL-Brakes introduced the 4-pot pads, they were designed for the early calipers which meant you'd have to grind 1mm of material away to be able to use them on the new calipers.
Nowadays, this problem is resolved.

With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T08:03:44Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC6Es, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (µ=0.40)
* RC6Es is an Endurance spec, specifically made for the Elise (µ=0.44) (**)
* RC6 is medium (µ=0.50)
* RC8 is high (µ=0.6) (*)

(*) RC8 has a high friction index compared to other pads.
To use RC8 on front brakes of a light car like the Elise would make the car lock up quickly and could be tricky.
Currently RC8 is available as a rear pad only and is used as a relatively cheap way to shift the brake balance of the car further the the rear.

(**) RC6Es is a specific compound which is formulated for and during the time LOT was doing the Dubai and Barcelona 24hr races. The friction level is slightly below RC6 but the compound is designed to last longer at constant (high) temperature levels. This pad is not suited for road use as it will wear discs and pads very quickly when cold. Only at the operating temperature the wear factory will become very low which means you'd be able to squeeze 24hrs of racing out of one set of pads.

It is recommended not to mix CL Brakes pads with organic pads on the car. The advantage of sintered pads is they offer their highest friction level directly from first application of the brakes where organic pads have to be warmed up to make them reach their desired friction level.
When you mix sintered with organic on the same car the brake balance would constantly shift while warming up the organic pads.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

Lotus has used two versions of the AP 4-pot calipers where one version came with thicker pads. When CL-Brakes introduced the 4-pot pads, they were designed for the early calipers which meant you'd have to grind 1mm of material away to be able to use them on the new calipers.
Nowadays, this problem is resolved.

With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T08:02:00Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (µ=0.40)
* RC6Es is an Endurance spec, specifically made for the Elise (µ=0.44) (**)
* RC6 is medium (µ=0.50)
* RC8 is high (µ=0.6) (*)

(*) RC8 has a high friction index compared to other pads.
To use RC8 on front brakes of a light car like the Elise would make the car lock up quickly and could be tricky.
Currently RC8 is available as a rear pad only and is used as a relatively cheap way to shift the brake balance of the car further the the rear.

(**) RC6Es is a specific compound which is formulated for and during the time LOT was doing the Dubai and Barcelona 24hr races. The friction level is slightly below RC6 but the compound is designed to last longer at constant (high) temperature levels. This pad is not suited for road use as it will wear discs and pads very quickly when cold. Only at the operating temperature the wear factory will become very low which means you'd be able to squeeze 24hrs of racing out of one set of pads.

It is recommended not to mix CL Brakes pads with organic pads on the car. The advantage of sintered pads is they offer their highest friction level directly from first application of the brakes where organic pads have to be warmed up to make them reach their desired friction level.
When you mix sintered with organic on the same car the brake balance would constantly shift while warming up the organic pads.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

Lotus has used two versions of the AP 4-pot calipers where one version came with thicker pads. When CL-Brakes introduced the 4-pot pads, they were designed for the early calipers which meant you'd have to grind 1mm of material away to be able to use them on the new calipers.
Nowadays, this problem is resolved.

With standard calipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the caliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T07:43:13Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (approx 0.48)
* RC6 is medium (0.55)
* RC8 is high (>0.6)

RC8 probably has a friction index that is too high for a light car like the Elise and locks up too quickly or gives too little control over brake modulation. RC8 is only available as a rear pad.

RC6 and RC5+ are more useful.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes-c-9.html elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

As delivered the pads for 4 pot callipers may be too thick and require some grinding of the friction material (about 1mm) to fit properly on new discs.

With standard callipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the calliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Brake pads

2014-09-03T07:42:36Z

YvoTuk: /* RC5+, RC6, RC8 */

The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Original_equipment_manufacturer OEM] '''Brake pads''' on the Elise are reasonably expensive and generally not highly regarded. There are many after market products to choose from with superior performance, both in terms of stopping power and longevity, and at a more reasonable costs.

'''[http://elise-faq.info/index.php?title=Pad_change Changing brake pads]''' is an easy and rewarding DIY project, and some people prefer the reassurance this gives. There is a '''[[Brake pad bedding in procedure]]''' which you are encouraged to following after fitting new pads.

Early S1 Elises with MMC discs MUST use MMC specific pads, if other pads are used you will ruin the discs very quickly and also risk a dangerous brake failure.

Brake pad fitment for the Elise is as follows:-

Below is a list of after market manufacturers with descriptions, and real world experiences, from SELOC members.

==Borg&Beck==

In 2000 mainstream Automotive Products was broken up and sold, a new, smaller company was created - AP Racing. Specialised in high performance brake and clutch systems for motorsports applications. This company has since been purchased by Brembo S.p.A., but is still run as a separate entity.
You can still buy Elise/Exige brake pads and clutches branded with Borg&Beck. '''user information required'''

http://www.firstline.co.uk/borgandbeck/index.php

==Brembo HP sport (HP2000)==
[http://www.brembo.com| Brembo Manufacturer Website]

New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.

'''Below information is from manufacturer. User information required'''

Tested to the highest levels on the track with decelerations from 270kph (168mph) the HP2000 material is capable of operating in the most demanding conditions. 
With excellent cold performance & bite, high resistance to fade, frictional stability throughout all operating conditions, reduced pad & disc wear and low dust levels, the all new HP2000 friction material offers significant advantages over its rivals. Designed to be a direct replacement for the Original Equipment (OE) pads the Brembo sport pad comes with the exact same specification as the OE pad including (where applicable): fitted wear leads, slots for separate wear leads and anti-rattle clips with the added benefit of anti-noise shims on every pad. 
Combine all of this with competitive pricing and UNECE R90 approval across the full range (making them street legal) and you get a true high performance brake pad fit for the road.

==Carbone Lorraine==
===RC5+, RC6, RC8===
Sintered brake pads from French manufacturer who started out as a motorbike brake manufacturer, but also does the brake pads for the TGV and works rally teams from Peugeot, etc.

* RC5+ pads have the lowest friction index (approx 0.48)
* RC6 is medium (0.55)
* RC8 is high (>0.6)

RC8 probably has a friction index that is too high for a light car like the Elise and locks up too quickly or gives too little control over brake modulation. RC8 is only available as a rear pad.

RC6 and RC5+ are more useful.

[http://www.cl-brakes.com/ Manufacturer Website]

[http://www.elise-shop.com/brakes/ elise-shop.com are official CL Brakes distributor for Lotus applications]

[http://www.carbonelorrainebraking.co.uk/ UK Distributor]

[http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/ Dedicated CL Brakes Shop]

For Elise specific pads:
* Front pad type code: 4060
* Rear pad type code: 4115

As delivered the pads for 4 pot callipers may be too thick and require some grinding of the friction material (about 1mm) to fit properly on new discs.

With standard callipers they are a straight fit but you MUST fit the small square anti rattle rubber buffers directly to the calliper or suffer very annoying rattling from the n/s/f disc.

These pads give a very consistent pedal feel and show little or no variation in retardation if temperatures go up. Fading because of pad material breakdown is virtually impossible as sintered material does not break down until >1100C and by that time your brake fluid will have started to boil.

See the following thread for some concerns:

[http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=334404&page=1 SELOC Chat]

==EBC==
[http://www.ebcbrakes.com| EBC Manufacturer Website]

We fit 100's of EBC Greens & have had no reported failures or catching fire. However, with any pads it is very important to bed them in properly & we supply a hanger on every car that goes out explaining this.
Edited by Sinclaire 20/05/09
[[File:Ebc brakes.jpg|250px|thumb|left|EBC brake pad range temperature overview]]

'''Ultimax/Blackstuff:''' no information found on use with Lotus. They are cheap, have the lowest temperature capacity and surely won't stand up to track use. Nominal friction coefficient 0.46

'''Green:''' Not recommended for track use but comparable with OEM pads for both stopping power and wear. Nominal friction coefficient 0.55

'''Redstuff:''' low dust, high temp pad. Designed for large vehicles or high performance vehicles. Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Yellow:''' New compound getting a good write-up for track use, possible alternative to Pagids at half the price. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.31 ; 800C(1440F)-0.21 ; Average friction coefficient 0.5

'''Bluestuff NDX:''' NDX is for street use. Non-NXD is an endurance race pad (not street legal). Cold friction 0.75 ; 550C(1000F)-0.45 ; 800C(1440F)-0.42

'''Orangestuff:''' New pad. Track use only (not street legal). Designed to slow down car and not stop it. Cold friction 0.5 ; 550C(1000F)-0.6 ; 800C(1440F)-0.63
 
One of the [[http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=126236&page=1#pid2778366| comments]] about EBC from forum from a user (Simon S) that has used a lot of brake pads: 
EBC *anything* are just shite cheap crap, Greens are IMHO dangerous for anything other than light road use, Reds are not much better, and don't work well when pushed hard (as in overheat and break up), Yellows are rock hard and just do not offer the same level of retardation and pedal feel the OEM pads to when push come to shove... they also crumble when really pushed (and I had them actually catch fire!).
 

==Ferodo==
[http://www.ferodo.com/en-global/Products/Pads/Pages/Product-Selection.aspx| Ferodo Manufacturer Website]
===DS2500 - H compound===
Similar performance to Mintex 1144 but longer lasting. Common replacement pad in mainland Europe. Consistent coefficient of friction (0,42) at all temperatures.

===DS3000===
Race pad (not suitable for the road). Very grabby (high initial bite like it says on Ferodo website), no pedal feel, non-linear (unvarying torque output). Very High coefficient of friction (0,54) at all speeds and temperatures. There are several flavours of DS3000 pad: DS3000-R,DS3000-E,DS3000plus-M 
Additional brake pads from Ferodo. Not available for Elise owners: DS4003, DS1.11, DS2.11 (source: http://www.compfriction.com.au/brake_pads/ferodo_racing.php)

==Hawk==
[http://www.hawkperformance.com| Hawk Manufacturer Website] 
According to their catalogue they only produce brake pads/discs for Lotus Elise 2005 (need more info: is this pad compatible with more years?) '''User information required''' 
Code reference: 
*HB180x.560 Front brake pads
*B278x.465 Rear brake pads
Instead of 'x' fill in compound code: F=High Performance Street(HPS) Z=Performance Ceramic N=HP Plus 
===DTC-70===
Race pad. Compound code U: 400-1600°F; 204-871°C. Extremely high torque with aggressive controllable initial bite. Superior release and torque control characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with high deceleration rates with or without down force.
===DTC-30===
Race pad. Compound code W: 100-1200°F; 38-649°C. Brake pads designed Specifically for Dirt Circle Track applications. Uniquely controllable torque with smooth consistent feel and bite. Superior Release and torque control characteristics.
===HT-10===
Race pad. Compound code S: 300-1300°F; 149-871°C. Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics. Higher Torque than Blue 9012.
===Blue 9012===
Race pad. Compound code E: 250-1000°F; 121-538°C. Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.
===HP Plus===
Race/Street pad. Compound code N. Extremely high coefficient of friction makes HP Plus the perfect upgrade over stock for high performance streetcars used in autocross competition or that experience repetitive, heavy braking. 
Buy direct from Hawk: http://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/ 
Direct link to Hawk catalogue: http://www.hawkperformance.com/docs/catalog-current.pdf 

==Mintex==
[http://www.mintex.co.uk/ Mintex Manufacturer Website] 
===1144===
Excellent value for fast road and occasional track. Quick to bed in and work well from cold. Good pad life and not particularly abrasive on disks, although can be a bit dusty. Some fade experienced after pro-longed track use. Squeal can be a problem when the pads are hot, but a hefty dollop of coppaslip on the back of the pads should help.

Can overheat on tracks that need heavy braking and not much opportunity for cooling (e.g. Brands Indy), leading to a "gravelly" feel after a few laps.

'''Mintex variations'''

Be aware that there has been some confusion over which pads are 1144's. The part number for Mintex Pads for the Elise are MDB1890 and MDB1891 (Front and Rear), there are then compound types of which 1144 is one. These are the variations;

'''1109''' - Standard Road Use - Not suitable for the track - These are normally found in motorfactors or ebay for £25 per axel and sometimes mis-sold as 1144's.

'''1144''' - Fast Road / Normal Track Use - Cira £60 per axel, will be marked C-Type on the box.

'''1155''' - Hard Track use only - harder compound and will lose out on feel and progression

The code will be on the back of the pad.

==OMP==

=== Road&Sport ===
OT/7951 Front pads 
OT/7954 Rear pads 
http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE1&changelanguage=en

OMP Road&Sport brake pads have been developed to offer excellent performance in fast road use.
* Excellent stability of the friction coefficient, even at the highest temperature (see graph).
* This compound is the result of 30 years experience in rallies and track racers.
* For the new car models manufactured from 10/1999 the pads are homologated according to R-90 rules.

===Racing===
OT/6951 Front pads 
OT/6952 Rear pads 

http://www.ompracing.it/prodotti.html?categorycode=GPASTIGLIE&changelanguage=en

971C RACING COMPOUND
OMP 971C range of brake pads is made from a new friction material, asbestos free, having following characteristics:
* COMPOSITION: thermosetting resins with the addition of special carbon materials.
* FRICTION COEFFICIENT: very high (0.48).
* FRICTION STABILITY: uniform also during varying of the temperature in a field between 100 and 800° C (see graph).
* ANTI-FADING PROPERTIES: excellent
* MECHANICAL RESISTANCE: very high also thanks to the special structure formed by the substances present in the compound.
* TOP LEVEL PERFORMANCES in professional use (Rally, Group N).

Pads have good initial bite from cold and cope well with track use.

Could do with a little more feedback under hard braking, but don't show any signs of fading.

Like many track-oriented pads they can squeal/screech quite a bit on the street.

Low disc wear.

==Pagid==
[http://www.braketechnology.com/ Official Website]

[http://www.braketechnology.com/racecharacteristics.html Racing Compound Characteristics]

===RS 4-2 Blue===
A medium friction racing compound with good cold friction and fading resistance up to 500°C ( 930°F).
* Work well from cold.
* Under very hard use they will fade before the RS14 compound.
* less prone to squeal than RS14's

Summary, A good compromise for both Road and Track usage. Can be noisy with some disc combo's.

Fronts are lasting around 10 hard track days (20 hours) rears are lasting 40 track hard days (80 hours).

===RS 14 Black===
This is a medium high friction value ceramic type compound with very good modulation, high fade resistance, low heat conductivity, and a good wear rate up to a temperature of 650°C (1.200°F).
* If used as a road pad they can eat discs, however when at track temperature the wear ratio will be higher in the pad providing less wear of the disk.
* Not as effective from cold as the RS 4-2 compound.
* Very track orientated pad so whilst safe to use on the road a driver with a road only intention may well be better to look at a different compound.
These pads can generate a lot of squeal if not used in anger on a regular basis, so while highly rated for track work, these pads are perhaps too compromised for a road car. Incompatible with a lot of discs so check compatibility before buying.

===RS 15 Grey===
Very high torque compound. It combines a 20% higher friction value than the RS14 with a slightly increased pad wear. Needs finesse to avoid over braking the car. Good release characteristic. Although the RS15 has a very good modulation (controllability) it might have an excessive bite for some applications, as lightweight cars or cars with boosted brakes. Applications: NASCAR, CART, F3, Touring cars, GT cars, WSC, DP, Trans Am and Rally.

==Performance Friction==
New brake pad available at Eliseparts shop.
[http://www.performancefriction.com/| PFC Manufacturer Website] 
'''Below information is from manufacturer and other websites. user information required'''

===81===
Low Grip Asphalt and Dirt Track applications
Replacing the perennial favourite 80 compound, 81 offers smooth and stable high temperature torque with excellent cold bite for the dirt and asphalt racers that demand race ready friction. 81 compound also offers quicker release for unrivaled modulation with low wear and excellent disc conditioning properties.
===01===
01 is one of the most popular race compounds in the PFC's arsenal. Slightly higher
bite and torque for the first 2/3's of the stop than 83 compound. At the end of the
stop, 01 compound has less torque scatter for improved modulation with excellent
release and a flat torque curve. 01 compound is very easy on the discs with very
low wear, on par with 83 compounds.
===08===
08 compound is one of PFC newest and have gained immediate favor in Endurance Sportscar, and GT racing due to its performance in applications where smooth initial bite is a must. 08 have a slight friction rise with temperature, excellent release and modulation characteristics, and very low abraded disc wear. In addition to its considerable performance, 08 wears the longest of all PFC pads and easily matches wear of the other competitors with much higher bite.

note: Added section below because this compound is mentioned. 83 Compound is replaced by the 81 compound. 
===83===

Recommended for high grip and severe duty applications. This is the compound that has won more championships since it’s debut than all others. It is a perenniel workhorse in NASCAR. When it comes to slowing down under the most severe conditions, 83 compound has a tremendous history of success. Higher bite than 80 compound, with a rising torque curve to handle the most extreme conditions, along with low wear. 01, 03 and 05 compounds are steadily replacing 83 compound in most applications. It is still available in many applications and remains a viable choice nearly 20 years after being released.

Manufacturer website: http://www.performancefriction.com

==SBS==
Scandinavian Brake Systems. Not have the feel of Pagid but perfectly decent. High performance low cost.
* [http://uk.sbs.dk/divisions/automotive.aspx| SBS Manufacturer Website]
* UK SBS distributer is [[Questmead]].

=== ProTrack ===
Steady, all round carbon ceramic race compound. Ideal for track days, standard car racing etc.

* Disc temperatures up to 700°C.

Front: 3017.CC.TH14.3
Rear: 3101.CC.

=== ProRace ===
The professional Dual Carbon race compound for racing at highest level. Stable and consistent brake performance round after round. Extremely high thermal stability.

* Disc temperatures up to 800°C.

==Textar==
[http://www.textar.com| Textar Manufacturer Website]
===R90 Road pads===
Pure road pads which should be similar (and possibly identical) to Lotus OEM brake pads.

Additional information: ''OEM are Textar pads with a Brembo/AP logo printed on them. The Textar logo can be seen engraved in the backing plate.''

Part numbers:

* Front: 2032306 (EAN-number: 4019722256141)
* Rear: 2041003 (EAN-number: 4019722256172)

[[Category:Brakes]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:S2 Exige]]

Over 100k

2010-02-18T18:54:48Z

YvoTuk: /* The Over 100,000 Miles Club */

===The Over 100,000 Miles Club===

{| border="1"
! Name !! Car
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/woody72 woody72]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Jaye.Tillson Jaye.Tillson]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Edw Edw]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Arno Arno]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/reAnimate reAnimate]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/oneslip Oneslip]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/BrianDrought BrianDrought]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Liam Liam]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/GaryDVO GaryDVO]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tigga! Tigga!]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Onch Onch]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Hugh.N Hugh.N]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Steve69 Steve69]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Black_potato Black_potato]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Phil._S Phil._S]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Romtootes Romtootes]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Tanuki Tanuki]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Linds Linds]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/russcasey russcasey]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/DoubleD DoubleD]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Spunagain Spunagain]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/jeffers Jeffers]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/SidewaysMatt SidewaysMatt]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Azlan Azlan]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Andrew%20S Andrew S]
|| S2
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Andy_R Andy_R]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/fatwomble fatwomble]
|| S1
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/YvoTuk YvoTuk]
|| S1
|}

===The Over 200,000 Miles Club===

{| border="1"
! Name !! Car
|-
| [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Stu Stu]
|| S1
|}

[[Category:Misc]]

Torque settings

2009-08-26T20:01:48Z

YvoTuk: /* Torque settings */

== Torque settings ==

Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. 

'''Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!''' 

Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures. 

Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened. 
The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively. 
Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer. 

Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts. 
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt. 

{| border="1"
! Bolt Size !! 8.8 !! 10.9 !! 12.9 !! A2-70 (Stainless)
|-
| 6mm (M6)
|| 9Nm || 13Nm || 14Nm || 7Nm
|-
| 8mm (M8)
|| 23Nm || 33Nm || 40Nm || 17Nm
|-
| 10mm (M10)
|| 45Nm || 65Nm || 70Nm || 33Nm
|-
| 12mm (M12)
|| 80Nm || 115Nm || 125Nm || 57Nm
|-
| 14mm (M14)
|| 125Nm || 180Nm || 195Nm || xx
|-
| 16mm (M16)
|| 195Nm || 280Nm || 290Nm || xx
|}

[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Torque settings

2009-08-26T20:00:37Z

YvoTuk: /* Torque settings */

== Torque settings ==

Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. 

'''Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!''' 

Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures. 

Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened. The hardening process will improve the maximum load on the bolt, but it will also create a relatively brittle bolt.
Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer. 

Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts. 
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt. 

{| border="1"
! Bolt Size !! 8.8 !! 10.9 !! 12.9 !! A2-70 (Stainless)
|-
| 6mm (M6)
|| 9Nm || 13Nm || 14Nm || 7Nm
|-
| 8mm (M8)
|| 23Nm || 33Nm || 40Nm || 17Nm
|-
| 10mm (M10)
|| 45Nm || 65Nm || 70Nm || 33Nm
|-
| 12mm (M12)
|| 80Nm || 115Nm || 125Nm || 57Nm
|-
| 14mm (M14)
|| 125Nm || 180Nm || 195Nm || xx
|-
| 16mm (M16)
|| 195Nm || 280Nm || 290Nm || xx
|}

[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Torque settings

2009-08-22T09:12:24Z

YvoTuk:

== Torque settings ==

Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. 

'''Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!''' 

Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures. 

Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened. This process will improve the maximum load on the bolt, but it will also create a relatively brittle bolt.
Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer. 

Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts. 
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt. 

{| border="1"
! Bolt Size !! 8.8 !! 10.9 !! 12.9 !! A2-70 (Stainless)
|-
| 6mm (M6)
|| 9Nm || 13Nm || 14Nm || 7Nm
|-
| 8mm (M8)
|| 23Nm || 33Nm || 40Nm || 17Nm
|-
| 10mm (M10)
|| 45Nm || 65Nm || 70Nm || 33Nm
|-
| 12mm (M12)
|| 80Nm || 115Nm || 125Nm || 57Nm
|-
| 14mm (M14)
|| 125Nm || 180Nm || 195Nm || xx
|-
| 16mm (M16)
|| 195Nm || 280Nm || 290Nm || xx
|}

[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Torque settings

2009-08-22T08:50:15Z

YvoTuk: /* Torque settings */

== Torque settings ==

Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. 

'''Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!''' 

Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures. 

Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened. This process will improve the maximum load on the bolt, but it will also create a relatively brittle bolt.
Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer. 

Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts. 
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt. 

{| border="1"
! Bolt Size !! 8.8 !! 10.9 !! 12.9
|-
| 6mm (M6)
|| 9Nm || 13Nm || 14Nm
|-
| 8mm (M8)
|| 23Nm || 33Nm || 40Nm
|-
| 10mm (M10)
|| 45Nm || 65Nm || 70Nm
|-
| 12mm (M12)
|| 80Nm || 115Nm || 125Nm
|-
| 14mm (M14)
|| 125Nm || 180Nm || 195Nm
|-
| 16mm (M16)
|| 195Nm || 280Nm || 290Nm
|}

[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Torque settings

2009-08-22T08:45:50Z

YvoTuk:

== Torque settings ==

Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. 

'''Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!''' 

Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.

Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened. This process will improve the maximum load on the bolt, but it will also create a relatively brittle bolt.
Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.

Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.

{| border="1"
! Bolt Size !! 8.8 !! 10.9 !! 12.9
|-
| 6mm (M6)
|| 9Nm || 13Nm || 14Nm
|-
| 8mm (M8)
|| 23Nm || 33Nm || 40Nm
|-
| 10mm (M10)
|| 45Nm || 65Nm || 70Nm
|-
| 12mm (M12)
|| 80Nm || 115Nm || 125Nm
|-
| 14mm (M14)
|| 125Nm || 180Nm || 195Nm
|-
| 16mm (M16)
|| 195Nm || 280Nm || 290Nm
|}

[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]
[[Category:Reference]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Radiator

2009-08-22T07:42:30Z

YvoTuk: /* Elise-Shop.com */

[[Image:Standard oem radiator.jpg|thumb|left|Standard OEM radiator with plastic end tanks]]
The standard OEM Elise radiator is another weak point in the cooling system. Although it is lightweight, it has plastic end tanks which are prone to expanding and leaking under pressure.

Unfortunately you need to [[Remove the front clamshell|Remove S2 front clamshell]] before you can [[replace the radiator & cooling fans|replace the radiator]].

A upgraded radiator is pretty advisable when going for Honda/Audi/Duratec engine upgrades. Most converted cars on the original radiators seem to blow them up pretty soon after conversion.
{{clr}}

==Leaks==
[[Image:Oem rad end tank leak.jpg|thumb|left|Drivers side end tank leaking under pressure]]
The most common fault with the OEM radiator is cracking/spliting of the plastic end tanks. The first signs of failure are drops of coolent on the windscreen, either drivers or passengers side, but castrophic failure of the end tanks has been known.
{{clr}}

Quite often the passenger side hose is poorly connected (because it is difficult to do) and sometimes the bleed screw can leak.

The OEM radiators seem to have a problem with their manufacture where the main core is bonded to the top/bottom and leaks are all too common.

===Indication of HGF===
Its been suggested in the past that a blown radiator can indicate imminent HGF. The header tank cap is normally the first to vent when the system is pressurised since it only requires approximately 1 bar. The radiator is designed to operate at pressures a lot higher than this and the cap acts as a fuse. However, the header tank is on the lowest pressure point of the circuit and this allows high pressure peaks on the high pressure side (which is from the engine to the rad). '''need more thought here'''

==Aftermarket Upgrades==
Replacement may require careful drilling out of the fan bracket rivets

=== PMA group ===
The original equipment manufacturer

Typically the plastic endcaps can be expected to be good for 3 years

http://www.pmagroup.co.uk/branches.php

At least one branch will sell for £100 + VAT inc 12months warranty
You'll need to refit the fan brackets

===Eliseparts===
<gallery>
Image:All aluminium radiator.jpg|All aluminium upgraded radiator
Image:All aluminium hi pressure radiator.jpg|All aluminium hi pressure radiator
Image:Standard oem radiator.jpg|Standard OEM radiator with plastic end tanks
</gallery>
[http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts] offer three radiators, the standard OEM with plastic end tanks, an all aluminium alternative and a race radiator.

===Proalloy===
<gallery>Image:Radiator pro alloy.jpg|Pro Alloy direct replacement radiator</gallery>

[http://www.proalloy.co.uk Pro Alloy], Run by SELOC member [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=wazzer Wayne Clayden] offer a direct replacement for the standard unit: -
*Twin row 45mm thick, high efficiency alloy core.
*Aluminium end tanks,(good for high pressure systems)
*All Pro Alloy radiator cores are fully brazed in a controlled atmosphere process to comply with ISO 9001 quality assurance standards

===Elise-Shop.com===
<gallery>
Image:OE-RAD.jpg|Original OE radiator with plastic end tanks
Image:AliRad.jpg|Full Aluminium High Pressure Radiator (Elise, Exige, 340R, VX220 - non VVTi)
</gallery>

[http://www.elise-shop.com Elise-Shop.com] Run by SELOC member [http://forums.seloc.org/m/YvoTuk Yvo Tuk] offer a range of radiators from the standard OEM with plastic end tanks to a Full aluminium 42mm (extra capacity) alternative to the Pro-Alloy Work-Of-Art radiator to the all new triple pass very high capacity radiator.

'''Have a read in [http://forums.seloc.org/t/212371 this thread to learn more about the latest options available!]'''

===Charles Zügn===

SELOC Member [http://forums.seloc.org/m/Yasec Yasec] Sells a Alloy Radiator for 285 GBP incl. delivery. (This is for the 32mm thick version)
and is the lightest on the market. see thread: http://arc.seloc.org/t/102391
There is also the motorsport vesion with 40mm thickness for 355 GBP incl. delivery.
Custom fan brackets optional for 2 fans or for different fans like the oem available!

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Stack

2009-08-16T20:32:20Z

YvoTuk: /* S1 Stack Glass */

The Instrument binnacle in the Elise is made buy a company called 'Stack' and therefore is referred to as 'Stack unit' or just 'Stack'. Late Elise have replaced the Stack with a Shurlok unit.

[[image:elisestack.JPG|thumb|left|S1 Elise Stack Unit]]
{{clr}}

===Resetting===
I recently acquired a GPS and was very shocked to see that my speedo was over-reading by about 10 mph when compared to the GPS. On searching the Tech forum, I realised that this is quite common, and can be simply rectified by resetting the Stack unit as follows:

- Turn off the ignition
- Open the driver's door (yes, really!)
- Press and hold the trip-meter reset button
- Whilst still holding the reset button turn the key in the ignition to the second position (just before the engine turns)

The Stack will then wind both needles back to below the zero position, and the LCD will show the software revision number. Once it's gone through the motions your speedo should then read true!

From my research, this seems to work on all versions of the Elise, including those with Stack and Shurlok instruments.

===Stack Unit - removing unit===
To remove the stack unit it is necessary to first remove the steering column surround which consists of removing its 5?? screws. NOTE: be careful as the odometer reset switch is attached to the surround and it may be possible to damage the two delicate wires connecting it.

Once the steering column surround is removed you should see two 10 or 12mm bolts. Once these are removed the unit should become free apart from the wiring harness connected at the rear. NOTE: be careful at this stage as it is possible to damage the wiring harness if excess weight or force is placed on the cabling

To gain better access to the plug at the rear I removed the cowl surrounding the unit using a small socket set with a universal joint to remove the 4 small nuts. NOTE: It is probably a good idea to try to mark the unit somehow first as the cowl is fitted with elongated holes to allow fine positioning of the cowl surrounding the unit.

The plug at the rear has an upper and lower blue retaining clip. These were relatively easily removed (however be careful they don't fall inside the dash like mine did ;)) The plug itself however was VERY difficult to remove and I had to proceed with patience continuously gently wriggling it until it beame free. This took a long time but eventually worked.

The unit should now be free to remove from the vehicle. To remount the unit I simply reversed the above sequence.

===Stack unit - removing glass===
To remove the perspex window of the stack unit it should first be removed from the vehicle using the above procedure.

The glass is held in place using a black bath sealant type substance and this should be scraped away as best as possible. I, very gently, used a stanley knife blade to separate the perspex window from the plastic surrounding lip. This is a job that should be done very carefully and slowly otherwise there will be obvious damage to the unit. I did this over a period of days as not to become too frustrated with it. When I started to get frustrated with it I went off and had a beer and tried again the next day....not a job to do if you're in a rush!

[[Image:stack_unit_1.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

Once I was satisfied that I had removed as much of the black sealant as I could I gently started to insert broken stanley blade segments into the gap and really gently try to lever the perspex out of the unit. I started along the bottom edge and in the bottom corners in case I made any marks on the unit as these areas are somewhat hidden by the steering column surround . NOTE: stanley blades are bloody sharp and you could very easily cut yourself. Don't say I didn't warn you!

[[Image:stack_unit_2.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

Once I had managed to lift a corner I continued to separate the black sealant at the back of the perspex. I then added another segment of broken stanley blade to keep it lifted and slowly worked my way round the edge. Be careful not to lever the perspex too much or it might break and i'm not so sure how easy or cheap it would be to get a replacement.

[[Image:stack_unit_3.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

[[Image:stack_unit_4.jpg|thumb|left]]
{{clr}}

To refit the glass I managed to find some black bath sealant at my local DIY shop. I first cleaned all of the surfaces as best as I could and then pushed the glass back in place. I then sparingly squeezed some of the sealant around the edge of the glass clearing away the excess immediatlely. I decided not to put any sealant behind the glass as the glass already seemed a reasonably tight fit and just in case i had to do the same job next week, It is a Lotus after all! I just put enough around the edge to seal it so that moisture, condensation etc shouldn't be able to get in.

My best advice is to take your time with this job. It's a bit long but i think the slower you do it the less likely you are to damage the unit. Good luck!

===S1 Stack Glass===
If you need to replace the Glass(Lens) on your S1's Stack, you can get this (already painted of couse) directly from Stack for £50.00 ex vat and shipping.

Contact:
sales@stackinc.com or sharon.drew@stackltd.com

(As of Oct 25, 2008, STACK no longer sell the replacement Glass) but elise-shop.com started to sell the glasses. You can find them here: [http://www.elise-shop.com/stack-replacement-glass-elise-s1-exige-s1-p-354087.html ..here..]

===Return to Zero===
There appears to be an undocumented software feature in the stack firmware which returns the odometer value back to zero. A very handy feature indeed but unfortunately the procedure required to perform this functionality is currently unknown..

* http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=121480

<gallery>
Image:Stack return to zero.jpg|S2 Stack display after odometer reset
</gallery>

===Also See===
[http://www.stackltd.com/ Stack's WebSite]

[http://www.cishurlok.com/ Shurlok's WebSite]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dashboard#Dashboard_items Dashbord Instrument cluster]

[[Category:Interior]]
[[Category:Electrical]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Radiator

2009-04-12T10:27:43Z

YvoTuk: /* Elise-Shop.com */

[[Image:Standard oem radiator.jpg|thumb|left|Standard OEM radiator with plastic end tanks]]
The standard OEM Elise radiator is another weak point in the cooling system. Although it is lightweight, it has plastic end tanks which are prone to expanding and leaking under pressure.

Unfortunately you need to [[Remove the front clamshell|Remove S2 front clamshell]] before you can [[replace the radiator & cooling fans|replace the radiator]].

A upgraded radiator is pretty advisable when going for Honda/Audi/Duratec engine upgrades. Most converted cars on the original radiators seem to blow them up pretty soon after conversion.
{{clr}}

==Leaks==
[[Image:Oem rad end tank leak.jpg|thumb|left|Drivers side end tank leaking under pressure]]
The most common fault with the OEM radiator is cracking/spliting of the plastic end tanks. The first signs of failure are drops of coolent on the windscreen, either drivers or passengers side, but castrophic failure of the end tanks has been known.
{{clr}}

Quite often the passenger side hose is poorly connected (because it is difficult to do) and sometimes the bleed screw can leak.

The OEM radiators seem to have a problem with their manufacture where the main core is bonded to the top/bottom and leaks are all too common.

===Indication of HGF===
Its been suggested in the past that a blown radiator can indicate imminent HGF. The header tank cap is normally the first to vent when the system is pressurised since it only requires approximately 1 bar. The radiator is designed to operate at pressures a lot higher than this and the cap acts as a fuse. However, the header tank is on the lowest pressure point of the circuit and this allows high pressure peaks on the high pressure side (which is from the engine to the rad). '''need more thought here'''

==Aftermarket Upgrades==
Replacement may require careful drilling out of the fan bracket rivets

=== PMA group ===
The original equipment manufacturer

Typically the plastic endcaps can be expected to be good for 3 years

http://www.pmagroup.co.uk/branches.php

At least one branch will sell for £100 + VAT inc 12months warranty
You'll need to refit the fan brackets

===Eliseparts===
<gallery>
Image:All aluminium radiator.jpg|All aluminium upgraded radiator
Image:All aluminium hi pressure radiator.jpg|All aluminium hi pressure radiator
Image:Standard oem radiator.jpg|Standard OEM radiator with plastic end tanks
</gallery>
[http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts] offer three radiators, the standard OEM with plastic end tanks, an all aluminium alternative and a race radiator.

===Proalloy===
<gallery>Image:Radiator pro alloy.jpg|Pro Alloy direct replacement radiator</gallery>

[http://www.proalloy.co.uk Pro Alloy], Run by SELOC member [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=wazzer Wayne Clayden] offer a direct replacement for the standard unit: -
*Twin row 45mm thick, high efficiency alloy core.
*Aluminium end tanks,(good for high pressure systems)
*All Pro Alloy radiator cores are fully brazed in a controlled atmosphere process to comply with ISO 9001 quality assurance standards

===Elise-Shop.com===
<gallery>
Image:OE-RAD.jpg|Original OE radiator with plastic end tanks
Image:AliRad.jpg|Full Aluminium High Pressure Radiator (Elise, Exige, 340R, VX220 - non VVTi)
</gallery>

[http://www.elise-shop.com Elise-Shop.com] Run by SELOC member [http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=YvoTuk Yvo Tuk] offer two radiators, the standard OEM with plastic end tanks and a Full aluminium alternative.

'''Have a read in [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=212371&page=1#pid3877413 this thread to learn more about the latest options available!]'''

===Charles Zügn===

[http://forums.seloc.org/member.php?action=viewpro&member=Yasec Yasec] (SELOC Member)
Sells a Alloy Radiator for 285 GBP incl. delivery. (This is for the 32mm thick version)
and is the lightest on the market. see thread: http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?goto=2478302
There is also the motorsport vesion with 40mm thickness for 355 GBP incl. delivery.
Custom fan brackets optional for 2 fans or for different fans like the oem available!

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Head gasket failure

2009-03-31T20:52:33Z

YvoTuk: /* Precautions */

[[Image:headgasket.jpg|thumb|left|Upgraded head gasket and steel dowels, see precautions below]]

'''Head Gasket Failure''', or HGF, is all too common on the Rover ‘K’ series engine. What happens is the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_gasket head gasket], which sits between the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cylinder_block engine block] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cylinder_head cylinder head], fails, allowing pathways between the firing area and cooling system to form. A more detailed explanation can be found [http://forums.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=92689 here].

Original designs of the were held in place by dowels that allowed minute movement of the gasket. Later gaskets are held in place by steel dowels, which do not allow movement of the gasket.
{{clr}}

=== Symptoms ===
Signs of HGF tend to include oil in the [[coolant]] expansion bottle, or [[Engine oil |oil]] becoming emulsified where the coolant from the coolant ways seeps through the gasket into oil. This can normally be seen as a ''[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mayonnaise mayonnaise]'' like substance inside the oil filler cap or the engine oil dipstick.

* Oil in coolant expansion bottle.
* Brown layer of foam floating on the coolant.
* Mayonnaise type substance on the oil filler cap/dipstick.
* Steam from the exhaust pipe.
* Erratic temp readings on the [[stack]] display.
* Blown radiator.

=== Handling ===
If you suspect HGF, '''do not''' drive the car and have it checked by a reputable garage. This can include checking the coolant for hydrocarbons to see if oil/gases have escaped past the gasket into the coolant ways. If the engine has overheated and the cylinder head has become warped, then the head will need to be skimmed so that it can be reseated onto a new gasket at a later date.

=== Treatment ===
Does the head need skimming?
Fit new head gasket.

=== Precautions ===
Certain precautions can be taken to help alleviate the problem of HGF. These include
* Always check the coolant level.
* Hoses for damage and jubilee clips for tightness.
* Warming the engine up gradually from cold may also be beneficial.
* Fit a [[remote stat]].
* Upgrade the [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Head_gasket head gasket].
* Install the new type oil ladder combined with the multi layer head gasket

=== HGF Pictures ===
<gallery>
Image:Spunky.jpg|Oil in coolant, no other signs of failure
Image:Spunky1.jpg|Oil in coolant, no other signs of failure
Image:spunky2.JPG|add short info
Image:spunky3.JPG|add short info
Image:spunky4.JPG|add short info
Image:spunky5.JPG|add short info
Image:spunky6.JPG|add short info
Image:spunky7.JPG|add short info
</gallery>

{{clr}}

[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Heater Matrix

2009-03-31T20:49:52Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:Thermostat closed.JPG|thumb|right|Cooling system showing the location of the matrix just behind the radiator]]

The heater matrix is a small radiator through which the [[coolant]] runs and warms the air which enters the cabin. On the S1, it is located on the driver's side, near the [[battery]]. The heater matrix is mounted vertically to the side of the blower fan unit.

When the matrix fails, coolant leaks out of it's pipes and into the heater system, resulting in a fine mist entering the cabin through the ventilation system and misting up the windscreen. With a badly failed matrix, a micro-climate can form in the passenger footwell with mist rising and falling whilst driving.

A replacement heater matrix can be purchased from [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=487 EliseParts] (part no AW38506, manufactured by KL Automotive).

elise-shop.com has developed a [http://www.elise-shop.com/heater-matrix-standard-or-upgraded-elise-exige-p-446.html high capacity heater matrix] which has 30% more capacity, but same shape, yet thicker than the original heater matrix.

== Replacing the heater matrix ==

{{Infobox Timetools|time=4 - 6 hours|tools=Torx T10 screwdriver, socket set, telescopic magnetic device, glue for the plastic matrix cover, new heater matrix}}

[[Image:1999EliseHeaterMatrix.JPG|thumb|left|Photo of an old failing heater matrix from a late 1999 S1 Elise. Note the bending of the matrix elements where the rivets were driven into the side of the plastic case.]]

This is a tricky job due to the location of the matrix and the position of the screws holding it in place.

First, [[Replace the coolant|empty the system of coolant]]. This can be done by first unscrewing the coolant reservoir tank cap, then removing the drivers-side wheelarch liner ([[Remove the wheels|remove the wheel]] first!) and undo the [[radiator]] feed hose. Drain into a bucket and dispose of safely. The radiator hose and wheelarch liner can be refitted as this side of the car doesn't need to be accessed again. Some people have reported successfully replacing the matrix without draining the system of coolant by clamping the feed and return hoses before disconnecting them from the matrix and then filling the new matrix with coolant via a funnel.

Next remove the plastic radiator cowl/surround with a Torx T10 screwdriver and [[Battery#S1_Fitting|remove the battery]].

=== Removing the matrix unit ===

Some vehicles have the matrix/blower assembly held together by an rubber band as shown in the workshop manual. Other vehicles have the two held together by a metal bracket and nut on both the top and bottom. These instructions describe removal of the matrix when the matrix/blower assembly are held together with the metal bracket.

It may be possible to bust the two rivets on one side of the matrix cover to allow the matrix to be removed without unscrewing the matrix/blower assembly. If this is possible, it will significantly reduce the disassembly/assembly time. If not, follow the procedures below:

[[Image:1999EliseMatrixBlowerAssembly.jpg|thumb|right|This model has a single green ceramic terminal block and a metal bracket and nut holding the matrix case to the blower case. Earlier S1 models varied.

You can see a spanner to the left of the green ceramic block removing one of the bolts holding the blower to the chassis. ]]
The matrix/blower assembly is held in place by 4 screws. Remove the metal [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=551 flexible heater ducting] and the hoses into and out of the matrix itself. One of the screws is just inside the outlet from the blower where the hose attached. Two are into the bulkhead below the radiator behind the cylindrical green ceramic terminal block. And the fourth is closer to the battery again into the bulkhead below the radiator. It's easiest if you remove the green ceramic terminal block - it's simply held on by the metal at each end which can be squeezed together and pulled out of the center of the green cylinder. Early Elise models had 3 cylindrical terminal blocks mounted on the blower. Later models had just one.

The wire which controls the hot/cold flap sits on top of the assembly. This should be removed. The sprung metal clip holding the cable in placed can be levered off and the S-shaped end of the wire can be removed from the control armature.

Once the matrix/blower assembly is free, it may still not be possible to get the unit out of the vehicle. The [http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=488 blower] is connected to the matrix by a metal strip and nut both on the top and the bottom of the assembly. As the matrix/blower assembly is now free and has a certain degree of rotation within the car, the matrix can be separated from the blower by undoing the nut and rotating the metal strip about 30 degrees. The metal strip on the bottom of the assembly is identical.

With the matrix separated from the blower, you can now remove the matrix from the car. You may need to rotate the matrix around and extract it upside down.

The matrix unit is held within a plastic case which is riveted and can be glued on the bottom. Take care to remove the rivets without damaging the plastic too much - you only need to remove one pair of rivets as this will allow the plastic to bend enough to remove the matrix.

=== Reassembling the matrix unit ===

[[Image:S1BlowerMatrixAssembly.jpg|thumb|left|Photo showing the blower/matrix assembly removed from the vehicle and clamped while being glued. Originally it was held together with rivets and the holes for the rivets can still be seen.]]
Clean out the inside of the plastic case before putting the new matrix inside and either riveting or glueing the case back together.

Re-assemble matrix/blower unit and then screw it back into the chassis - this may need two pairs of hands and a lot of patience due to the location of the screws. A telescopic magnetic device can be useful to retrieve dropped screws! Re-attach the green cylindrical terminal block, re-fit the hoses into the matrix and replace the battery.

=== Refilling with coolant ===

It may be easier not refitting the plastic radiator cowl just yet as it is easier to get to the radiator bleed screw when bleeding the system. If any of the plastic fasteners were broken whilst removing the radiator cowl, more can be purchased from [http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=382 Elise Shop].

Finally add coolant back into the header tank and follow the instructions in [[Bleed the cooling system]].

== See also ==
[[Coolant system]]

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:Engine Cooling]]
[[Category:Fluid]]

Ball joint

2009-03-28T09:09:34Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:ball joint.jpg|thumb|left|Ball joints]]
{{clr}}

Elise ball joint are not a specific item. The same have been used on Vauxhall (Opel) Kadett.
Parts number are: Quiton Hazel: QSJ883S, Deplhi: TC163. 

[Remark by YvoTuk (www.elise-shop.com)] 
We have found the above comment not to be correct. 

Nowadays, big automotive companies like QH, TRW, Delphi etc. outsource 'simple' chassis components to various parties. In practice, buying a QSJ883S might be the right thing to do today, but you might experience a problem tomorrow. 

WARNING ! - Purchase Non specific ball joints at your own risk, myself and other local members have found the new QH and Delphi Joints to be too loose or too large to press in.. Both elise-shop and Eliseparts have their own delphi manufactured part that fits perfectly. (added March 2009)

What we've seen happening was: 
- '''Length / taper of shaft changed''', steering arm or ball joint plinth was sitting higher up or lower down, which directly affects the geometry of your car.
- '''Size of the lower part changed''' by a few thou's which made the ball joint stiff. This is something you will recognize very easy when you install the new ball joint. The self steering of the car can be completely gone. 

For these reasons, we have made an arrangement with one of the big automotive players to produce a ball joint for us which is manufactured to a tighter specification. This specific ball joint is not available through the regular channels and can only be bought from us.

See "change a ball joint" for further details.

== External links ==

* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=61
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164&products_id=300

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Exhaust silencers

2008-11-05T21:03:16Z

YvoTuk: /* Differences Between Lotus Exhausts From PTP */

The '''exhaust silencer''' is located at the end of the exhaust system and is designed to quieten the engine noise.

The various Elise models require different silencers and the following pages have been created: -
*[[Exhaust silencers for Elise S1, Exige S1, 340R]]
*[[Exhaust silencers for Elise S2, K series engine]]
*[[Exhaust silencers for Elise S2, Exige S2, 111R, Toyota engine]]
*[[Exhaust silencers for Elise, Honda engine]]

==Differences Between Lotus Exhausts From Janspeed==

Motorsport silencer supplied from 1996 – 2000

This was the very first aftermarket exhaust sold by lotus for the MK1 Elise as an O.E. upgrade, designed for the Sport 135 kit, the silencer could also be fitted to standard cars. This exhaust was manufacturered in mild steel and developed to be more about a loud sound instead of performance with the twin round tailpipes. We only recommend using this silencer up to approx 150ps as creating too much backpressure.

Supersport silencer supplied from 2000-2005

The Janspeed Supersport silencer for the MK1 Lotus Elise is designed to reduce weight and backpressure leading to increased power and stunning sound quality. This Supersport design was originally manufacturered for Lotus car in mild steel, Each Supersport silencer is now manufacturered by hand in high grade (304) Stainless Steel and comes with the market leading lifetime guarantee. New nuts and bolts are also inclusive for easy fitting. 8.7kg

Roadsport silencer supplied from Aug 2005 Onwards

After listening to many Lotus Elise owners and their comments we are pleased to now offer The New Janspeed Roadsport design silencers for all models of the MK1 Lotus Elise. Each silencer is beautifully hand crafted in nothing but the highest grade (304) stainless steel throughout production on individual jigs to ensure a perfect fit every time. All bends are mandrel formed to minimise loss of wall thickness and tube volume to maximize exhaust gas flow and life of each silencer produced. Each Roadsport silencer has unique twin round 76mm chrome backslashed tailpipes engraved with the Janspeed logo, new nuts and bolt for easy fitting. The new design is much lighter at only 8.6kg, less restrictive than the standard production silencer and quieter than the earlier Janspeed Supersport design. Around town and long journeys the new Roadsport silencer is not too load making it easy to live with. When given full throttle it delivers a fantastic crisp sports note, the ideal all-round silencer for fast road and track use. Lifetime guarantee, polished stainless finish, competitively priced, superb sports sound, improved flow and power are all key factors to the new Roadsport silencer.

Advantages of the new Roadsport silencer

#Not as loud as the Supersport or Motorsport
#Performance better than Supersport and Motorsport
#Highly Polished stainless steel
#Engraved tailpipes
#Lifetime Guarantee

[http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/ Power Train Projects]

[[Category:Exhaust]]

Change the ARB

2008-11-05T20:57:55Z

YvoTuk: /* External links */

[[Image:dower_at_snetterton.jpg|thumb|left|Want to look hard and lift that front inside tyre?]]
Fitting an adjustable [[ARB]] is relatively straight forward.
{{clr}}

== Procedure ==
'''1. [[Jacking_points#Front|Support the front of the car]]'''
* Remove both front wheels.

'''2. Remove old ARB'''

'''3. Fit new one'''

[[Image:arb1.jpg|thumb|left|Eliseparts Uprated ARB]]

[[Image:arb2.jpg|thumb|left|ARB Mounting]]

[[Image:arb3.jpg|thumb|left|ARB Drop Link]]

[[Image:arb4.jpg|thumb|left|Wheel Hub View]]
{{clr}}

== External links ==
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=312
* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=58

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:DIY]]

First remove the lower bolts holding the droplinks to the ARB

Then you will have to remove the front aliminium access panel. On mine two of the rivnutted bolts had seized so I had to gring the heads off.

You will then have to drill out the rivits on the two aliminium panels on either side of the crash structure.

Then undo the two allen bolts holding the ARB bracket either side of the chassis using an allen key. It would be a good idea to use some WD40 on these as mine had seized in quite well!

On earlier cars the bushes are held in by extra long bolts holding the bushes and the lower front wishbone bushes in

You should then be able to drop the ARB from underneath the car

[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Ball joint

2008-11-05T00:15:14Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:ball joint.jpg|thumb|left|Ball joints]]
{{clr}}

Elise ball joint are not a specific item. The same have been used on Vauxhall (Opel) Kadett.
Parts number are: Quiton Hazel: QSJ883S, Deplhi: TC163. 

[Remark by YvoTuk (www.elise-shop.com)] 
We have found the above comment not to be correct. 

Nowadays, big automotive companies like QH, TRW, Delphi etc. outsource 'simple' chassis components to various parties. In practice, buying a QSJ883S might be the right thing to do today, but you might experience a problem tomorrow. 

What we've seen happening was: 
- '''Length / taper of shaft changed''', steering arm or ball joint plinth was sitting higher up or lower down, which directly affects the geometry of your car.
- '''Size of the lower part changed''' by a few thou's which made the ball joint stiff. This is something you will recognize very easy when you install the new ball joint. The self steering of the car can be completely gone. 

For these reasons, we have made an arrangement with one of the big automotive players to produce a ball joint for us which is manufactured to a tighter specification. This specific ball joint is not available through the regular channels and can only be bought from us.

See "change a ball joint" for further details.

== External links ==

* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=61
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164&products_id=300

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Ball joint

2008-11-05T00:14:44Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:ball joint.jpg|thumb|left|Ball joints]]
{{clr}}

Elise ball joint are not a specific item. The same have been used on Vauxhall (Opel) Kadett.
Parts number are: Quiton Hazel: QSJ883S, Deplhi: TC163. 

<Remark by YvoTuk (www.elise-shop.com)> 
We have found the above comment not to be correct. 

Nowadays, big automotive companies like QH, TRW, Delphi etc. outsource 'simple' chassis components to various parties. In practice, buying a QSJ883S might be the right thing to do today, but you might experience a problem tomorrow. 

What we've seen happening was: 
- '''Length / taper of shaft changed''', steering arm or ball joint plinth was sitting higher up or lower down, which directly affects the geometry of your car.
- '''Size of the lower part changed''' by a few thou's which made the ball joint stiff. This is something you will recognize very easy when you install the new ball joint. The self steering of the car can be completely gone. 

For these reasons, we have made an arrangement with one of the big automotive players to produce a ball joint for us which is manufactured to a tighter specification. This specific ball joint is not available through the regular channels and can only be bought from us.

See "change a ball joint" for further details.

== External links ==

* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=61
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164&products_id=300

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Ball joint

2008-11-05T00:14:12Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:ball joint.jpg|thumb|left|Ball joints]]
{{clr}}

Elise ball joint are not a specific item. The same have been used on Vauxhall (Opel) Kadett.
Parts number are: Quiton Hazel: QSJ883S, Deplhi: TC163.

<Remark by YvoTuk (www.elise-shop.com)> 
We have found the above comment not to be correct.

Nowadays, big automotive companies like QH, TRW, Delphi etc. outsource 'simple' chassis components to various parties. In practice, buying a QSJ883S might be the right thing to do today, but you might experience a problem tomorrow.

What we've seen happening was:
- '''Length / taper of shaft changed''', steering arm or ball joint plinth was sitting higher up or lower down, which directly affects the geometry of your car.
- '''Size of the lower part changed''' by a few thou's which made the ball joint stiff. This is something you will recognize very easy when you install the new ball joint. The self steering of the car can be completely gone.

For these reasons, we have made an arrangement with one of the big automotive players to produce a ball joint for us which is manufactured to a tighter specification. This specific ball joint is not available through the regular channels and can only be bought from us.

See "change a ball joint" for further details.

== External links ==

* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=61
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164&products_id=300

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Ball joint

2008-11-05T00:13:59Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:ball joint.jpg|thumb|left|Ball joints]]
{{clr}}

Elise ball joint are not a specific item. The same have been used on Vauxhall (Opel) Kadett.
Parts number are: Quiton Hazel: QSJ883S, Deplhi: TC163.

<Remark by YvoTuk (www.elise-shop.com)>
We have found the above comment not to be correct.

Nowadays, big automotive companies like QH, TRW, Delphi etc. outsource 'simple' chassis components to various parties. In practice, buying a QSJ883S might be the right thing to do today, but you might experience a problem tomorrow.

What we've seen happening was:
- '''Length / taper of shaft changed''', steering arm or ball joint plinth was sitting higher up or lower down, which directly affects the geometry of your car.
- '''Size of the lower part changed''' by a few thou's which made the ball joint stiff. This is something you will recognize very easy when you install the new ball joint. The self steering of the car can be completely gone.

For these reasons, we have made an arrangement with one of the big automotive players to produce a ball joint for us which is manufactured to a tighter specification. This specific ball joint is not available through the regular channels and can only be bought from us.

See "change a ball joint" for further details.

== External links ==

* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=61
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164&products_id=300

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Ball joint

2008-11-05T00:05:09Z

YvoTuk: /* External links */

[[Image:ball joint.jpg|thumb|left|Ball joints]]
{{clr}}

Elise ball joint are not a specific item. The same have been used on Vauxhall (Opel) Kadett.
Parts number are: Quiton Hazel: QSJ883S, Deplhi: TC163.

See "change a ball joint" for further details.

== External links ==

* http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=61
* http://www.eliseparts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164&products_id=300

[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Striker pins

2008-01-17T09:27:53Z

YvoTuk: /* S2 Striker Pins */

==S2 Striker Pins==

===Electric Tape Around The Striker Pins===

For the lazy or spanner inept among us, a simple fix is to wrap some electrical tape around the pins (making them bigger in diameter).

This will have to be re-applyed over time as the tape will slowly become ripped ect.

[[Image:Pins3.JPG|thumb|left|Tape Around Pins]]
[[Image:Pins4.JPG|thumb|left|Wrapping Tape Around The Pins]]
[[Image:Pins5.JPG|thumb|left|Tape Requiring a re-application]]

{{clr}}

===An alternative to tape, string===

Having used the tape method for a few months I did not like it a lot, it looked bad and did not really work. I fixed the issue by using simple string (the kind used to wrap parcels). Drop of super glue to fix the end, then wrap it around tightly and neatly and fixing the other end with another drop of super glue. If you want it to last for years use a bit of wood glue to soak the string all around, will make it very durable. My doors now shut like on a Merc. Okay, not really, but a lot better.

{{clr}}

===Adjusting The Standard Striker Pins===

17mm Spanner

[[Image:pins1.jpg|thumb|left|Striker Pins]]
[[Image:pins2.jpg|thumb|left|Striker Pins]]

{{clr}}

===After Market Striker Pins=== ebay link inactive at this moment, anybody an alternative??? - Link active again now.

These can be acquired off a seller from eBay, and are bigger in diameter than the stock item.

[[Image:new1.jpg|thumb|left|Larger After market S2 Striker Pins]]
[[Image:new2.jpg|thumb|left|Larger After market S2 Striker Pins]]

{{clr}}

[http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZjess9blueQQhtZ-1 eBay Seller]

And to make life easy, they can be found at [http://www.elise-shop.com elise-shop.com]
[http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=613 ..here.. to be precisely]

[[Category:Body]]
[[Category:Interior]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S2]]

Harness bar

2007-07-23T12:27:45Z

YvoTuk:

[[Image:Spyder harness bar.jpg|thumb|left|Harness bar]]
A harness bar is required to fit behind the seats of the Elise, and secured to the rollover bar, before [[harnesses]] can be fitted.

There are various manufactourers of harness bars but they fall into two main categories. Those that require the plastic trim behind the seats to be partially cut and those that don't. There are also various bolt patterns which should be chosen depending upon what type of seat you have.

== Require cutting ==
=== [[Spyder]] ===
Spyder made harness bars for both the S1 and S2.

== Plug and play ==
=== Sinclaire ===
aparrently sell a harness bar that can be fitted without the cutting of the plastic trim.

Sinclaire's harness bar fits to top set belt anchor bolts.

== Elise S1 and VX220 Plug and Play, Elise S2 require cutting ==
=== www.elise-shop.com ===
[http://www.elise-shop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5 www.Elise-Shop.com]

The Elise S1 and VX220 harness bars will fit in the car without any cutting. These harness bars do require the seats to be taken out at installation.
The Elise S1 harness bar is mounted on the original (welded) nuts on the backside of the roll-over hoop. This means the harness bar will be fully supported by the roll-over hoop at an impact.

The Elise S2 harness bar is mounted in the same way and therefore require some cutting of the plastic part behind the seats. The cuts to be made are the size of the harness bar diameter. If cut carefully and kept aside, the bits that came out can be welded back in using thinner.

'''PLEASE ADD INFO'''

[[Category:Safety]]
[[Category:Interior]]
[[Category:Lotus Elise]]
[[Category:S1]]
[[Category:S2]]

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T19:03:20Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

== '''Nimbus Gll Material Properties''' == 

'''Construction:''' 
Double aluminium sheet, double formed 
Materials: 0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium 
Material Thickness: 0.43 mm 
Product Thickness: 5.25 mm Area Density: 1.69 kg/m2 

'''Thermal:''' 
Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC 0.27 W/mK 
Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: 72.3 ºC 

== '''Cirrus GIIIx Material Properties''' == 

'''Construction:''' 
2x Aluminised steel sheet, with synthetic fibre insert, double formed 
Materials: 2x 0.15 Feran steel, BS6536 AS05. 1mm synthetic fibre 
Material Thickness: 1 mm 
Product Thickness: 4.45 mm mm 
Area Density: 3.51 kg/m2 

'''Thermal:''' 
Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC 0.11 W/mK 
Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: 54 ºC 

== '''Description''' == 

I removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.
 

Nimbus and Cirrus are for different applications. 
Nimbus is a two layer heatshield (as described above) which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield. 

Cirrus has an extra layer in between which makes it ideally suited for the really hot (radiating) area's. The extra layer doesn't only provide an extra barrier, it also stops the material from degrading over several heat cycles. 

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard (OE) stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I created a second layer from Cirrus(and formed that) around the manifold and the cat. 

I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus for this 'project'. 

== '''Replacement of the OE shield and some extra...''' == 
 
What I've done is very simple: 

- remove all exhaust components 

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!) 

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the sheet of Nimbus. Draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. '''(take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart)''' 

Do not cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment. 

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again) 

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling) 

- use long and wide pop rivets to fit the new heatsield. 
Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large outside diameter washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable. 

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also here, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigger sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets. 

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer) 

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali. 

== '''Pricing this project...''' == 

The cost for one sheet of Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT (1226*1250mm) 
Cirrus is available at 90 Euro + VAT (580*1250mm)
Besides that, you will need (prefferably full aluminium) pop rivets and large outside diameter washers. 

== '''Only for racers? NO!''' == 

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays but mainly long motorway stretches were really warming up the rear end of the car. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. 
I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area (boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T16:07:19Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

== '''Nimbus Gll Material Properties''' ==

'''Construction:''' 
Double aluminium sheet, double formed 
Materials: 0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium 
Material Thickness: 0.43 mm 
Product Thickness: 5.25 mm 
Area Density: 1.69 kg/m2 

'''Thermal:''' 
Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC 0.27 W/mK 
Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: 72.3 ºC 

'''Internal Exhaust Test''' (Horizontal flat sample)'' 
No shield:'' 
Source: 300 ºC Receiver: 144 ºC 
Source: 500 ºC Receiver: 274 ºC 

''Nimbus Gll (new):'' 
Source: 328 ºC Receiver: 50 ºC 
Source: 565 ºC Receiver: 85 ºC 

''Nimbus Gll (Dirt impringed):'' 
Source: 286 ºC Receiver: 63 ºC 
Source: 493 ºC Receiver: 109 ºC 

Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC 
New: 0.28 
Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC): 0.2 
Accelerated Salt Spray: 0.34 

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T16:06:36Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

== '''Nimbus Gll Material Properties''' ==

'''Construction:''' 
Double aluminium sheet, double formed 
Materials: 0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium 
Material Thickness: 0.43 mm 
Product Thickness: 5.25 mm 
Area Density: 1.69 kg/m2 

'''Thermal'''
Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC 0.27 W/mK 
Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: 72.3 ºC

'''Internal Exhaust Test''' (Horizontal flat sample)
''
No shield:''
Source: 300 ºC Receiver: 144 ºC
Source: 500 ºC Receiver: 274 ºC

''Nimbus Gll (new):''
Source: 328 ºC Receiver: 50 ºC
Source: 565 ºC Receiver: 85 ºC

''Nimbus Gll (Dirt impringed):''
Source: 286 ºC Receiver: 63 ºC
Source: 493 ºC Receiver: 109 ºC

Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC
New: 0.28
Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC): 0.2
Accelerated Salt Spray: 0.34

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T16:06:18Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

==
'''Nimbus Gll Material Properties''' ==

'''Construction:''' 
Double aluminium sheet, double formed 
Materials: 0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium 
Material Thickness: 0.43 mm 
Product Thickness: 5.25 mm 
Area Density: 1.69 kg/m2 

'''Thermal'''
Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC 0.27 W/mK 
Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: 72.3 ºC

'''Internal Exhaust Test''' (Horizontal flat sample)
''
No shield:''
Source: 300 ºC Receiver: 144 ºC
Source: 500 ºC Receiver: 274 ºC

''Nimbus Gll (new):''
Source: 328 ºC Receiver: 50 ºC
Source: 565 ºC Receiver: 85 ºC

''Nimbus Gll (Dirt impringed):''
Source: 286 ºC Receiver: 63 ºC
Source: 493 ºC Receiver: 109 ºC

Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC
New: 0.28
Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC): 0.2
Accelerated Salt Spray: 0.34

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T16:05:46Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

==
'''Nimbus Gll Material Properties''' ==

'''Construction:'''
Double aluminium sheet, double formed
Materials: 0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium
Material Thickness: 0.43 mm
Product Thickness: 5.25 mm
Area Density: 1.69 kg/m2

'''Thermal'''
Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC 0.27 W/mK
Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: 72.3 ºC

'''Internal Exhaust Test''' (Horizontal flat sample)
''
No shield:''
Source: 300 ºC Receiver: 144 ºC
Source: 500 ºC Receiver: 274 ºC

''Nimbus Gll (new):''
Source: 328 ºC Receiver: 50 ºC
Source: 565 ºC Receiver: 85 ºC

''Nimbus Gll (Dirt impringed):''
Source: 286 ºC Receiver: 63 ºC
Source: 493 ºC Receiver: 109 ºC

Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC
New: 0.28
Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC): 0.2
Accelerated Salt Spray: 0.34

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T15:56:37Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

'''Nimbus Gll Material Properties'''

<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0">

<td colspan="3">Physical</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Construction:</td>

<td colspan="2">Double aluminium sheet, double formed</td>
</tr><tr>
<td>Materials:</td>
<td colspan="2">0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Material Thickness:</td>

<td colspan="2">0.43 mm</td></tr>

<tr>
<td>Product Thickness:</td>
<td colspan="2">5.25 mm</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Area Density:</td>

<td colspan="2">1.69 kg/m2</td></tr>
<tr>

<td colspan="3">Thermal</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC (1)</td>
<td colspan="2">0.27 W/mK</td>

</tr><tr>
<td>Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: (2)</td>

<td colspan="2">72.3 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="3">Internal Exhaust Test (3); Horizontal flat sample</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">No shield:</td>
<td>Source: 300 ºC</td>

<td>Receiver: 144 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 500 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 274 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (new):</td>

<td>Source: 328 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 50 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 565 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 85ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (Dirt impinged): (5)</td>
<td>Source: 286 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 63 ºC</td></tr><tr>

<td>Source: 493 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 109 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="3">Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC</td>
<td>New:</td>

<td>0.28</td></tr><tr><td>Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC):</td><td>0.2</td></tr><tr>
<td>Accelerated Salt Spray: (4)</td>

<td colspan="2">0.34</td>

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T15:56:08Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

'''Nimbus Gll Material Properties'''

<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0">

<tr>
<td colspan="3">Physical</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Construction:</td>

<td colspan="2">Double aluminium sheet, double formed</td>
</tr><tr>
<td>Materials:</td>
<td colspan="2">0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Material Thickness:</td>

<td colspan="2">0.43 mm</td></tr>

<tr>
<td>Product Thickness:</td>
<td colspan="2">5.25 mm</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Area Density:</td>

<td colspan="2">1.69 kg/m2</td></tr>
<tr>

<td colspan="3">Thermal</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC (1)</td>
<td colspan="2">0.27 W/mK</td>

</tr><tr>
<td>Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: (2)</td>

<td colspan="2">72.3 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="3">Internal Exhaust Test (3); Horizontal flat sample</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">No shield:</td>
<td>Source: 300 ºC</td>

<td>Receiver: 144 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 500 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 274 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (new):</td>

<td>Source: 328 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 50 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 565 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 85ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (Dirt impinged): (5)</td>
<td>Source: 286 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 63 ºC</td></tr><tr>

<td>Source: 493 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 109 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="3">Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC</td>
<td>New:</td>

<td>0.28</td></tr><tr><td>Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC):</td><td>0.2</td></tr><tr>
<td>Accelerated Salt Spray: (4)</td>

<td colspan="2">0.34</td>

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T15:55:45Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

'''Nimbus Gll Material Properties'''

<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0">

<tbody><tr>
<td colspan="3">Physical</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Construction:</td>

<td colspan="2">Double aluminium sheet, double formed</td>
</tr><tr>
<td>Materials:</td>
<td colspan="2">0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Material Thickness:</td>

<td colspan="2">0.43 mm</td></tr>

<tr>
<td>Product Thickness:</td>
<td colspan="2">5.25 mm</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Area Density:</td>

<td colspan="2">1.69 kg/m2</td></tr>
<tr>

<td colspan="3">Thermal</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC (1)</td>
<td colspan="2">0.27 W/mK</td>

</tr><tr>
<td>Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: (2)</td>

<td colspan="2">72.3 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="3">Internal Exhaust Test (3); Horizontal flat sample</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">No shield:</td>
<td>Source: 300 ºC</td>

<td>Receiver: 144 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 500 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 274 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (new):</td>

<td>Source: 328 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 50 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 565 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 85ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (Dirt impinged): (5)</td>
<td>Source: 286 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 63 ºC</td></tr><tr>

<td>Source: 493 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 109 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="3">Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC</td>
<td>New:</td>

<td>0.28</td></tr><tr><td>Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC):</td><td>0.2</td></tr><tr>
<td>Accelerated Salt Spray: (4)</td>

<td colspan="2">0.34</td>

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T15:54:42Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus GII and Cirrus GIIIx heatshield material.

To understand why to use both, you'd have to understand the characteristics of the material:

Nimbus Gll Material Properties</h3></center>
<table align="center" border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0">

<tbody><tr>
<td colspan="3">Physical</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Construction:</td>

<td colspan="2">Double aluminium sheet, double formed</td>
</tr><tr>
<td>Materials:</td>
<td colspan="2">0.3 & 0.125mm 1050A '0' grade aluminium</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Material Thickness:</td>

<td colspan="2">0.43 mm</td></tr>

<tr>
<td>Product Thickness:</td>
<td colspan="2">5.25 mm</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Area Density:</td>

<td colspan="2">1.69 kg/m2</td></tr>
<tr>

<td colspan="3">Thermal</td></tr>
<tr>
<td>Thermal Conductivity @ 150 ºC (1)</td>
<td colspan="2">0.27 W/mK</td>

</tr><tr>
<td>Hot Plate Temperature Drop @ 150 ºC: (2)</td>

<td colspan="2">72.3 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="3">Internal Exhaust Test (3); Horizontal flat sample</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">No shield:</td>
<td>Source: 300 ºC</td>

<td>Receiver: 144 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 500 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 274 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (new):</td>

<td>Source: 328 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 50 ºC</td></tr>
<tr>

<td>Source: 565 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 85ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="2">Nimbus Gll (Dirt impinged): (5)</td>
<td>Source: 286 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 63 ºC</td></tr><tr>

<td>Source: 493 ºC</td>
<td>Receiver: 109 ºC</td></tr>

<tr>
<td rowspan="3">Surface Emissivity @ 150 ºC</td>
<td>New:</td>

<td>0.28</td></tr><tr><td>Heat Aged (@ 300 ºC):</td><td>0.2</td></tr><tr>
<td>Accelerated Salt Spray: (4)</td>

<td colspan="2">0.34</td>

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T15:49:56Z

YvoTuk:

Exhaust Heatshield on the Elise S1 looks like cardboard with a silver toplayer.

This material degrades over time and on a lot of cars, it got damaged by replacing exhausts etc. When the aluminium top-layer damages, the lower layer seems to pulverise which completely discards the function of the material.
Besides, when upgrading to another (higher power) engine, a lot more heat is generated in the exhaust bay, but also in the area between the engine and the exhaust bay.

A good way of getting rid of this (potential) problem is to replace the OE heatshield with a mixture of Nimbus and Cirrus heatshields.

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

Replacing the exhaust heatshield with Nimbus

2007-02-12T15:43:04Z

YvoTuk:

I've removed the old heatshield from my car (the cardboard stuff with silver lining) and replaced that with Nimbus. The real hot area's (which are manifold and cat) have been protected with Cirrus.

Nimbus and Cirrus are different.

Nimbus is a two layer heatshield which is perfect for general use. It's good to shield an exhaust or -as I did- as a replacement of the old cardboard heatshield.

Cirrus has an extra layer which makes it ideally suited for the really hot area's.
This material has been tested with a 'radiation plate' 1 square meter which radiated 800 degrees C. They placed the 'receptable plate' (another 1m2 plate) at 2.5 cm and placed a sheet of Cirrus in the middle. After one hour, the receptable was warmed up to 80 degrees. (no airflow)

What I've done is simply replace all cardboard stuff with Nimbus and extended that into the engine bay to cover the area's which were not covered by the old heatshield. After that, I placed a second layer (and formed that) around the manifold and the cat.

In the past years, I found that not only trackdays by mainly long motorway stretches were really heating up the rear end. Wires were melted, the cable loom of my satnav which I dropped in the boot, was melted aswell. I've done Abbeville recently which means a 3,5 hr stretch of 100mph on the motorway.. temperature went down from well over 100 degrees in the boot to around 29 degrees in the hottest area
(boot was completely packed up which stopped any airflow)

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk
I've used one sheet of Nimbus and one sheet of Cirrus. (there were leftovers, but I've already helped someone out with that, so it was worth it )

Nimbus is 85 Euro + VAT and Cirrus is 90 Euro + VAT

Mind you, one sheet of Cirrus is half the size of a sheet of Nimbus, so it's effectively twice the price!

We've got one sheet of Nimbus left and have placed a new order at the factory, but I *think* it's going to take another 8 weeks before we'll have a new supply of Nimbus. Plenty of sheets of Cirrus left

Quote:Originally posted by YvoTuk

Quote:Originally posted by Black_potato
Yvo, do you have any pictures of the heat shields in situ, it would be interesting to see how you have done it.

I'll try to dig out some pics.

What I've done is very simple:

- remove all exhaust components

- remove the old heatshield (in one piece!!)

- take the old heatshield and 'crush it' on the plate of Nimbus and draw a cutting line around the original cardboard. (take at least 2cm around the old stuff as you have to fold Nimbus round to stop it from falling apart ) Don't cut it at the point where the manifold goes into the engine bay, you can simply fold that around the subframe and shield the area which isn't shielded at this moment.

Do not cut the holes for the exhaust mounts! (I did that, but it's useless and would only introduce new 'leaks', so I covered it again)

- form the Nimbus so it'll fit in the car. Don't forget to shape some extra's (a cross or so) to prevent it from rattling)

- use long and wide pop rivets. Drill hole, stick pop rivet in from above and push a large od washer over the other side of the pop rivet to spread the load. Prefferably use more pop rivets then original to get the whole thing stable.

- Create a tunnel made from Cirrcus which fits over the manifold and cat. I've bend the side approx. 5cm down to catch the heat. (also, you will have to fold the sides, so you need to cut a bigget sheet then the actual size needed!). Exactly same story here with the pop rivets.

I had a bit of a problem as the pop rivets initially were not long enough. This can simply be solved by tapping the area around the pop rivet (diameter of the washer)

For the manifold end on the engine, I formed a sheet around the manifold and attached that to the boot bulkhead with square pipes of ali

S2 Track Modifications

2007-01-15T22:48:27Z

YvoTuk: /* 3. Harness */

Thinking of investing in track upgrades for an S2 Lotus Elise ?

This article is a pragmatic and cost conscious approach to stepwise investments for getting the most out of the Elise handling on track as your driving improves, without pissing away too much cash ( LOL if that’s possible ).

This is about handling - for engine/power upgrades e.g. induction, exhaust, headwork, ecu, cams, transplants I'd suggest a separate article ( just note that if your over 95dba static you could have problems attending some track events ).

The article is aimed at folks new to this to give a complete picture of all the investments that can be made for a great track car ( e.g. ready to raceprep for [http://www.lotrdc.com LOTRDC ] class A ) but does not represent the "the ultimate in affluent or exotic upgrades", for that simply contact bogie on SELOC or PH :)

===0. Kit Bag===
Start with a £10 tire pressure gauge as the most important item and add from there ... after hiring smelly helmets why not sweat in your own ( Type A, A/FR or SNELL ) then tyre pump, fuel can, gloves etc.

===1. Oil===
Before you hit the track and start cooking the engine get some decent oil in - favourite would be fully synthetic with a high HTHS value and change when it’s black (every 8 to 12 track hours). If you don’t have an oil cooler even more important for a 5.x HTHS oil and change even more often. Worst case put in any W40 in but try and keep it fresh, rocking out on track with your car in need of an oil change is simply mad. Read the [[Oil Labelling Explained#Why oils lose viscosity with use|Why oils lose viscosity with use]] article.

===2. Brake Pads and Fluid===
After your first track experience you'll be wanting more consistent stopping power with longer sessions and the brakes are the first item to stress. Consider Mintex 1144 £100 for occasional tracking, Pagid RS42 blue for road and track £200, Pagid RS14 black £200 for hard core track bias (i.e. not great when cold and wet on the way to work). Fronts should last 24 track hours rears two to four times that.

Decent pads that wont fade with heat need fresh fluid (Castrol Super DOT4 £10, AP600 £20, SRF £50) and plan to bleed fluid regularly (every 8 to 12 track hours) plus completely change it annually (Lotus recommend that even for road use)
If your flushing the fluid then put some stainless steel braided hoses on £50 for more consistent brake feel as the increase in labour cost is marginal.

See [[Brake pads]] and [[Brake fluid]] for more information.

===3. Harness===
So the cornering and braking is throwing you around the cabin and wedging your left leg against the gear lever just isn’t good enough to stop the bruising. If your just having fun consider a CGlock but if you really want to "feel" the car you need a harness.

Bolt in or Wraparound ?

If you don’t have seats with shoulder strap holes you MUST buy bolt in harnesses. If you have seat holes then you can have either.

Harness shoulder strap bar ?

There are two principle types of harness bar, one that mounts mid level using dedicated points on the roll hoop but requires cutting the plastic back panel or one that bolts up behind the inertia reels and requires no cutting but can hold the straps too high and loose if you are shorter.

Also See [[how to fit a harness bar and belts]]

Harness Points ?
T
hey come in 4 or 5/6 point (crutch strap). 4 point is fine as you need a special cut-out in the base of the seat and a mount frame and/or custom floor spreader plates to use the 5/6 crutch strap.

Clubman or Standard ?

Clubman harness have the 2” shoulder straps permanently attached to the lap straps and do not join at the buckle which means they can be quite wide at the shoulders, you could pop out the middle if you are a slight build. Separate shoulder and lap straps which all join at the buckle are more expensive but far more secure and come in 2” or 3” (pref) shoulder strap widths. Lap straps should generally be 2” for security as the 3” can apparently ride up the pelvis fitted to Elise seats.

Adjusters ?

Shoulder straps can be fitted with plain buckles or quick release adjusters which make leaning forward (e.g. if using harness on the road) a whole lot easier.

The gold standard for harnesses are the Willans Silverstone 4 point 3” shoulder 2” lap strap with quick release adjusters £170 and you can add a the crutch strap later; use this as a price/performance comparison benchmark for whatever you are thinking of buying.

===4. Camera & mount===
If you really want to improve, along with lots of training, video yourself for later review of performance and technique. With a harness bar the usual camera mount is a Manfrotto superclamp SC with extension spindle ES and camera plate for £40. Stick any MiniDV or digital camera on there (anti vibration like Sony supersteadyshot really helps) but avoid the direct to CD types as the vibration can kill them. Being obsessive is also a plus for this stage
[http://www.b-hague.co.uk/Mounting%20Brackets.htm Camera Brackets Here]

If your camcorder has analogue input you could use a bullet cam mounted just about anywhere on the car.[http://www.rfconcepts.co.uk Bullet cams Here] [http://www.fastfilms.co.uk or here]

===5. Suspension===
So your bouncing over the track at speed and riding the bumpstops in corners with loads of lock and high slip angles for safe understeery fun, time for suspension ? Well if you eventually want to fit cut slick tyres and really use their capabilities you really will need stiffer springs and that means new monotube dampers that can handle the spring rates.

Lotus Sport Suspension with adjustable ride height £600, Nitron One Way with adjustable ride height and damping (bump/rebound) £1,100 or Ohlins or ... but be really careful about the £500 twintube damper offers since cheep is cheep. This is a long conversation and involves careful consideration of spring rates, ride height and geometry, but just fitting Nitrons and stiffer springs (e.g. 400/475) will drop a 2 minute lap by 5 to 10 seconds providing a more stable and predictable platform. Do a SELOC search on +spring +rates

New suspension will need the Geometry adjusting, another long storey but 340R Road is probably a good place to be here whilst still on road tyres see:[[Geo Setups]] for more information.

===6. Tyres===
By now you are melting your road tyres on track so it could be time for 195/225 cut slicks. Either Yokohama A048 £650 or Toyo R888 £450 will drop a 2 minute lap by a further 5 to 10 seconds with more consistency. See [[Tyres for OZ Racing Rims]] for more information.

You need to be really committed here since these tyres cost 50 to 100% more than your current road tyres and only last 25 to 50% the miles - this will generate a big jump in operating costs for a worse experience on the road (e.g. aquaplane in standing water). Maybe keep your original rims and tyres for road use ?

Whilst you could run 195 tyres on the standard 5.5J front rims, to allow the sidewalls to do their job properly, it is highly recommended to upgrade the front rims to 6.5J or 7J which unfortunately needs a whole new set of 4 like TeamDynamics 1.2 £500 or Lotus Motorsport OZ or Exige Spider £1,000 See [[S2 Wheel Options]] for more information.

'''PS If you are not able to consistently exceed your current road tyres capability on track, "upgrading" to cut slicks too early will probably hinder your development as there is less feel/feedback and the breakaway is sharper (less progressive).'''

===7. Brake Disks===
You are probably now at the point of overheating the OEM front disks with higher approach speeds and the extra braking capacity of the cut slicks. Time to upgrade the front disks to something that handles heat better; Elise-shop Motorsport disks £200 or Elise parts Ally Bell £300. There is marginal benefit upgrading the rear disks as they are used a LOT less (between 1:2 and 1:4) and yes you can run mixed front to back (e.g. the Official Lotus Motorsport 310mm AP5000 upgrade kit is for the front only).

===8. ARB===
Your consistently taking Craners at Donington or Coppice at Cadwell and the like around 100 mph and to improve high speed cornering stability and consistency a 2.5x ARB will help £200. You'll probably want to increase the front camber now or consider the 340R Track Geo setup.

===9. Uniball Toe links===
You don’t have to have solid/uniball rear toe links to run cut slicks - Lotus shipped the S2 135R and Exige on A048s with standard toe links, and there are many thousands of track miles done each year on these with an extremely low failure rate ... BUT the more hours you spend pushing the car hard on track up the curbs etc the higher your exposure to risk, so at some point when you have a spare £250 its worth doing. [[S2 Toelink Install]].

===10. Other Stuff===
Steering Wheel – you can bring the steering wheel 20mm closer, but it needs a new wheel (300mm Momo Team is usual £100) with an adaptor £20 and boss either fixed £50 or removable £100 [[S2 Removable Steering Install]].

Seats – Really nice but unnecessary (Budget £400, Eliseparts CF £550, 340R/Exige £700, Reverie Mulsanne £800) don’t forget you may need mounts or a frame conversion kit as well. Yes having shoulder and crutch holes is great, but with a properly fitted quality harness, the normal Elise seats are OK for track days.

===Vendors===
For stuff mentioned above checkout a mix ‘n match of:

[http://www.eliseparts.com Eliseparts]

[http://www.elise-shop.com Elise-Shop]

[http://www.hangar111.com Hangar111]

Hurricane HID kit FAQ

2006-12-05T20:30:27Z

YvoTuk: /* Specific Hi/Lo problems */

As we do get some questions regarding the installation of the [http://www.elise-shop.com Hurricane] HID kits from time to time, here is a list of Frequently Asked Questions which might be helpful if you experience any troubles while installing your HID kit.

First of all, it is important to understand what the components of your kit are doing:

== The components ==

=== The Ballast ===
This is the small box which is filled with electronics to control the burner. This box contains the power supply for the lamp. At startup, the output voltage will go up to some '''20.000 Volts''', be carefull not to touch any of the wires / connectors when the kit is powering up! After powering up, the voltage stabilises to a level below 100 Volts.
There is a lot of control circuitry to prevent any mishaps. The box will detect if no lamp is connected or if there's any shortcut. It also checks the input voltage; if the voltage drops too low, it will switch off. 

=== The Burner ===
This is the actual lamp. However, it's not a lamp as you are used to see. Instead of a wire, there's a small gass filled ball which is encapsulated in the glass tube. The ball contains a number of special gasses which control the ignition and determine the colour temperature of the burner. A major portion of these gases is Xenon, hence the name Xenon lamps. You cannot check a burner by measuring resistance as there is no physical connection between the two leads feeding the burner. By applying a high voltage, the gases inside the small ball will start carrying electrons from one conductor to the other. The side effect of this is the actual light you're seeing...

== First line failure analyses ==
To determine what is wrong, you will need to find out exactly what is happening. Normally, when you power up the HID's, you will hear a high-pitch tone coming from the ballasts. This tone is generated by the high frequency / high voltage generated inside the ballasts.
However, when the HID's don't start, you should hear nothing. 

''If you hear a ballast '''clicking''' it means it is generating high voltage but finds an error at the high voltage side.'' 

'''If the burner does not ignite .and. doesn't flicker''', there is something wrong in the connection from the ballast to the burner. 
This could be caused by too much tension on the wiring (ballasts fitted too far away from the lamps, wiring broken or connector broken. Best way to investigate is to swap the burner from one side to the other and see if the problem stays. (assuming one side is igniting). If the burner ignites after the swap, you've got to investigate the wiring and connectors of the burner. 
 '''If the burner does not ignite but flickers''', the burner is probably broken or there's a resistance in one of the wires. Swap the burners from one side to the other and check again. The problem will probably travel to the other side which means the burner is at fault and needs to be replaced. 

''If you don't hear any sound coming from the ballast, it means it is not generating high voltage. The problem should either be found in the ballast, the connections or the car'' 

First thing to check is if there's any power on the input pins of the ballast. When the lights are switched on, you should measure 12V DC on the input pins. A 'classic' on the Elise S2 is a blown fuse. According to the service manual, both lamps should be equipped with a 15 Amp fuse, yet we found quite a few cars with a 10 Amp fuse. 
Although the running power of an HID kit is less then a normal Halogen bulb, the startup current is a lot higher as the high voltage needs to be generated for a short while. This causes the 10 Amp fuse to blow (it's actually very close to 10 Amps, so you might see one side blowing while the other side works without problems!) 

If you find 12V DC at the input pins, you need to check the '''polarisation of the connectors'''. Although not easy, it is possible to reverse the power connector on the ballast. 
You will find two notches on the power receptable of the ballast. One is square and protrudes a lot further then the other one. The lip which is found on the connector should click over the smallest notch. Although the electronics inside the ballast is protected against polarity reversal, the system will not ignite. 

A specific problem which we've found on the '''Elise S1''' is '''voltage drop'''. The ''rush-in current'' caused by the ballast while generating high voltage is quite high. As this current is drawn during a very small period, fuses are not blowing (there is not enough energy to actually blow the fuse). However, wiring on the Elise S1 and Exige S1 has proven to be very thin. Thin wiring and high currents don't combine. If enough energy applied, the wire will light up, but as the ballast only draws this ''rush in current'' for a very short period, the wires will cause a resistance in the system. Extra resistance simply means that the voltage will drop. If the voltage drops to a level below 9 Volts DC, the ballast will generate an error and the lamp will not be ignited. 
'''The sympton for this is an HID installation that will work from time to time, but will also fail from time to time.''' 
To be sure the power isn't dropping too much at startup, you can check the HID installation by hotwiring the system: disconnect the HID power plugs at the car wiring side and run thick wiring (like jumpstart wires) directly to the ballast. Make sure to use a fuse of 15 Amps to prevent anything from literally blowing up! If you have a battery starter pack or a 12V DC Power supply which is rated at 10 Amps you can also use these (would even be easier!) to test the HID's.
One tip: the system needs more power to ignite when cold. The chance of not igniting during a cold winter day is bigger then during a hot summer day, so best would be to let the system cool down completely before testing.. 
There are different ways to solve this issue. Easiest and first to start with is cleaning all connections. There's a wiring loom connector which connects the front clamshell to the main loom. Unplug the connector and use proper contact cleaning spray to clean the contacts. Use a felt tip to dry the contacts and spray them with silicone spray or white grease. Do not use WD40 as this will damage the contacts! 
Next stop is the relaybox. Unplug the relays which are switching the headlamps, use contact cleaner spray to clean, dry the contacts and grease them before plugging in the relays. 

== Specific Hi/Lo problems ==

The Elise S1 has an H4 lamp which is a bit strange compared to the lamps used in the S2. An H4 lamp is one glass tube with two actual lamps in it. One for dip beam and one for main beam. [[Image:H4LAMP.jpg]]
The dip beam lamp is located behind a small metal screen where the main beam lamp is located a little lower and doesn't have this cover. 
It has proven to be physically impossible to create an HID lamp with two bulbs in H4 sizes which actually provide a legal beam pattern. All the lamps we've tested so far were nice attempts but were scattering the light in an extreme way. These will not pass an MOT test. 
The fillaments we are delivering consist of one single lamp which is physically moving up and down to position itself in the correct location within the reflector to either be a dip or main beam lamp. Within an H4 Hi/Lo solution, it is NOT possible to have the dip and main beam on at the same time as there's only one lamp in the system. 

The ballast used in a Hi/Lo system is the same ballast as the ones used in a 'normal' H1 or H7 HID lamp. The difference is in the attuator which moves the lamp up and down. 
The cable supplied in a Hi/Lo kit has a three spade connector. One is permanently connected to ground (black), the centre spade is permanently connected to + (red). The other spade is the main beam spade. 
To prevent the power from being cut when switched to main beam, there is a diode which runs from the main beam spade to the centre spade (the round black part with two leads). The diode has one side with a printed ring. This should be on the side of the dip beam (the red wire to the ballast). 
The attuator is controlled by the little white connector. It has two wires, one black which is connected to the - spade (black wire to the ballast) the other one - the white wire - is connected to the main beam spade. The idea is to apply power to the attuator when main beam comes up, so the lamp will be pulled down when switched to main beam. 

If you find the unit not to switch to main beam (e.g. the attuator not moving), there can be a power problem to the attuator. Check the white connector and see if it is connected properly. If so, carefully remove the complete lamp from the reflector (it makes sense to remove the wheelarch liner and front wheel as this will give you an area to work in.) 
Unplug the power connector on the ballast by pulling the lip and pulling it off the little aluminium box. 

As the 12V is removed from the ballast, the attuator can now be tested without powering the actual lamp. 

Have someone operate the light switches while you hold the lamp. When dip beam is switched on, the lamp on the other side of the car should start and the lamp which you're looking at should stay off. 
Now toggle main beam. You should see and feel the lamp moving back. If it's not moving, try to carefully look at the lamp and feel the package to find out if it moves at all. If you see it move slightly or feel it move but don't see it move, the attuator has probably been jammed. 

This is the procedure to check the attuator: 
Hold the base of the lamp (where the wires come out) with one hand 
Hold top part with the notches to fit in the reflector in the other and twist the top part anti-clockwise. 
Now pull the top part off the base and put the top part in a safe location 
You will now hold the base and the only thing which protrudes from it is the glass tube with the actual lamp inside. 
Put one finger on top of the glass tube (on the wire) and gently push the glass tube into the plastic base. 
If it moves freely and goes down approx. 1.5cm, the attuator is fine. 
If it jams, the lamp is probably twisted inside the base. Grab the round black plastic base of the tube, pull that approx. 5-8mm untill you're able to rotate the lamp inside the base. Rotate right or left untill you find a slot where the lamp easily moves into. Then once again check if it moves up and down. 

To assemble the lamp, hold the base in one hand, take the top part in the other and slide the top part over the base. Please be aware that there's only one way to push the glass tube through the aluminium base part without damaging it! When you slid it back, turn the top part clockwise untill it clicks. 

If the lamp move up and down but the actuator doesn't engage, there can be something wrong with the wiring or the power to the attuator. Easiest way out is to change the right hand and left hand wiring loom. 
If the problem moves from one side to the other, something is wrong in the wiring loom. If the problem says on the original side, something is wrong with the lamp. If so, the lamp needs to be returned to be checked. (probably a snapped wire)

If the problem stays, please contact us to discuss further options.. [mailto:yvo@elise-shop.com yvo@elise-shop.com]

[[Category:DIY]]
[[Category:Electrical]]

Hurricane HID kit FAQ

2006-12-05T20:04:48Z

YvoTuk: /* Specific Hi/Lo problems */

Hurricane HID kit FAQ

2006-12-05T20:04:32Z

YvoTuk: