Editing Replacing the throttle cable (section)

==Modifications==

I replaced the plastic push on the linkage plate with a brass one ([http://www.sandercock.com/elisebushinstructions.htm Sandercock bush]) This helps a little but doesn't make that much difference to the pedal feel IMHO, however it does have the advantage that it never needs to be replaced!

I am now on my third throttle cable, despite keeping them lubricated regularly, so I decided (stealing the idea from a SELOC member [citation needed]) to re-route my cable away from the exhaust. I believe (I have no proof) that the heat from the exhaust denatures the plastic liner in the cable and this is what causes the cable to stick. 

The route I chose is to to run the cable around the offside end of the engine, inside the large alloy extrusion that the engine attaches to, it then curves down to the sheer plate and continues as before. I relocated the nylon P clip, drilling a small hole in the sheer plate, to stop the cable from rattling on the undertray.

<gallery widths=500px heights=300px>
File:Throttle Cable New Route 1.jpg|New cable route, looking up past alternator belt
File:Throttle Cable New Route 2.jpg|New cable route, looking up at sheer plate
</gallery>

To compare here is the standard throttle cable routing, links to a third party site: [https://www.flickr.com/photos/noisymini/32599189017/in/album-72157669042016609/ cable routing, wide shot] [https://www.flickr.com/photos/noisymini/40575500333/in/album-72157669042016609/ cable routing, narrow shot]. Notice how close the throttle cable runs to the downpipe.

If you decide to use this new route you will need to drill the sheer panel for the P clip and find an M2.5 (I think) nut and washer to fit the P-Clip's bolt.

My original throttle cable passed under the handbrake mechanism, I think this is just an artefact of the order in which the car was assembled. If you want to put it back this way you will have to cut (and later replace) several cable ties, unbolt the handbrake from its brackets to get the cable through. I didn't bother and simply ran the cable alongside the handbrake, on the passenger side. It then passes under the gear change leaver before passing up the footwell divider as before.

New throttle cables are supplied dry and I feel they should be lubricated before use.

I was advised by a supplier of motorbike cables advised me never to use WD40 on cables as it can make the nylon liners swell and grip the cable. I was surprised at this but I just follow his advice - always use "Duck oil" and a Motorcycle cable oiler.

To get the cable oiler to seal onto the engine end of the cable I always wrap a bit of insulation tape around the end of the cable adjuster and also a bit around the inner wire. If you get this right the seal on the cable is pretty good and the aerosol can drive the oil down the cable qith little leakage.

[[File:Throttle Cable Oiling.jpg]]