Timing Strut for Sprinting - Revision history

Stu at 20:43, 2 May 2010

2010-05-02T20:43:43Z

Neal H at 16:41, 10 January 2009

2009-01-10T16:41:46Z

Black potato at 16:39, 9 March 2007

2007-03-09T16:39:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:39, 9 March 2007
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	Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod		Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod

	Next loosly screw rod into front ~~toeing~~ eye		Next loosly screw rod into front towing eye

	Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the ~~toeing~~ eye, this is where you will drill your hole.		Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.

	*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''		*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''
Line 40:		Line 40:
	Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.		Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.

	The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the ~~toeing~~ eye.		The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye.

	On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.		On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.

Black potato at 18:56, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T18:56:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:56, 4 March 2007
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	Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye		Next loosly screw rod into front toeing eye

	Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your ~~whole~~.		Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod comming out of the toeing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.

	*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''		*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''

Black potato at 18:54, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T18:54:39Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:54, 4 March 2007
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	'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q		'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q

	''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly ~~thiker~~ piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''		''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''

	'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''		'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''

Black potato at 18:54, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T18:54:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:54, 4 March 2007
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	To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:		To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:

	'''1.5m of Aluminum ~~piece of~~ cornering for around £4 from B&Q		'''1.5m piece of Aluminum cornering for around £4 from B&Q

	''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''		''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''

Black potato at 15:56, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T15:56:37Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:56, 4 March 2007
Line 50:		Line 50:
	When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.		When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.

	~~However~~ its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.		''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''

Black potato at 15:55, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T15:55:52Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:55, 4 March 2007
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	http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG		http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG

	Next ~~screw~~ screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.		Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until your reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a area reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be carefull not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.

	When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.		When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.

	However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.		However its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.

Black potato at 15:54, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T15:54:57Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:54, 4 March 2007
Line 41:		Line 41:

	The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.		The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the toeing eye.
	on the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.
			On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminum over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.

	http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG		http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG

Black potato at 15:53, 4 March 2007

2007-03-04T15:53:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:53, 4 March 2007
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	''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''		''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thiker piece I would recomend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''

	'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4'''		'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''

	I collated a small tool kit of the following:		I collated a small tool kit of the following:

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:43, 2 May 2010
Line 1:		Line 1:
	For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing.		For those wishing to compete in a timed event such as the SELOC Sprint events a timing strut should be used to ensure the most accurate timing.

	The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in ~~essance~~ the following covers the basics.		The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essence the following covers the basics.

	Height of Strut 254mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.		Height of Strut 254mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.

	Below is a ~~sugested~~ approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.		Below is a suggested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.

	* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.		* Note this was for a Series one Elise, it should be pretty much the same for an S2/340/Exige etc but just double check.
Line 11:		Line 11:
	To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:		To make mine I went to local DIY stores and brought the following:

	'''1.5m piece of ~~Aluminum~~ cornering for around £4 from B&Q		'''1.5m piece of Aluminium cornering for around £4 from B&Q

	''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would ~~recomend~~ it to avoid any issues with the course officials''		''*Note technically this is a little thin as it is only around 40mm on its longest side and should be 51mm, if you can find a slightly thicker piece I would recommend it to avoid any issues with the course officials''

	'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''		'''2ft of 8mm threaded rod, 10x 8mm nyloc nuts, 10x 8mm capped nuts, Total for these 3 items was less than £4 from Wickes'''
Line 26:		Line 26:
	Assembly is pretty easy:		Assembly is pretty easy:

	Cut 254mm off the ~~Aluminum~~ cornering or equivalent		Cut 254mm off the Aluminium cornering or equivalent

	Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod		Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod

	Next ~~loosly~~ screw rod into front towing eye		Next loosely screw rod into front towing eye

	Then hold the piece of ~~aluminum~~ you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure ~~aprox~~ 190mm from the ground mark the ~~aluminum~~ where it meets the rod coming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.		Then hold the piece of aluminium you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure approx 190mm from the ground mark the aluminium where it meets the rod coming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.

	*''Note the location of the hole in the ~~aluminum~~ will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''		*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminium will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''

	Next securing the ~~aluminum~~ in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependant on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.		Next securing the aluminium in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependant on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.

	Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.		Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.
Line 42:		Line 42:
	The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye.		The 2.5cm end is going to be the end that screws in to the towing eye.

	On the 1cm end thread the drilled ~~aluminum~~ over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.		On the 1cm end thread the drilled aluminium over the end and fix in place with the capped nut, you may find a 2nd spanner or a 13mm socket handy here to get them nice and tight.

	http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG		http://gallery.seloc.org/albums/userpics/13397/strut_small.JPG

	Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until ~~your~~ reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a ~~area~~ reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be ~~carefull~~ not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.		Next screw the whole thing into the front toeing eye until you reach the nyloc bolt at which point you should get a reasonable amount of resistance to tighten against. During this procedure be careful not to tighten it to much or you may scratch your front clam.

	When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.		When you are happy with how everything fits you just need to give it all a quick coat of mat black spray paint and your done.

	''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''		''*Note its worth taking the 13mm spanner and a pair of mole grips or pliers with you when you compete on the off chance it works its self a little loose.''

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:41, 10 January 2009
Line 3:		Line 3:
	The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.		The specifics can be found in the 2006 MSA handbook but in essance the following covers the basics.

	Height of Strut ~~245mm~~ with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.		Height of Strut 254mm with a depth of 51mm, the bottom of which must be no less that 180mm from the ground and no more than 200mm from the ground. This strut must then be finished in matt black.

	Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.		Below is a sugested approach for making one, many people make many different styles but this one seems to work ok for me.
Line 26:		Line 26:
	Assembly is pretty easy:		Assembly is pretty easy:

	Cut ~~245mm~~ off the Aluminum cornering or ~~equivilent~~		Cut 254mm off the Aluminum cornering or equivalent

	Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod		Cut 11cm off the threaded rod with the hack saw, file off any rough ends off the rod
Line 32:		Line 32:
	Next loosly screw rod into front towing eye		Next loosly screw rod into front towing eye

	Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod ~~comming~~ out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.		Then hold the piece of aluminum you have cut in front of the car and by using the ruler measure aprox 190mm from the ground mark the aluminum where it meets the rod coming out of the towing eye, this is where you will drill your hole.

	*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''		*''Note the location of the hole in the aluminum will vary dependent on the front ride height of the car''

	Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, ~~dependednt~~ on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.		Next securing the aluminum in a vice or similar drill and 8mm hole, dependant on the type of drill bit you have you maybe wiser to 1st drill a small guide hole.

	Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.		Next by holding the piece of rod in the pliers or mole grips thread a nyloc nut on each end, wind one down 2.5cm and the other 1cm.